tutorial Archives - La Visch Designs

tutorial – working the stretchy yo bind-off for 2×2 rib

Working the stretchy YO bind-off for 2x2 rib - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

This bind-off is very similar to regular “binding of in pattern”. I don’t have a tutorial about one showing this for 2×2 rib, but I do have one for 1×1 rib that shows you the principal of it. The main difference with the stretchy yo bind-off, is that it adds a yarn over for every purl stitch of the ribbing. As such, it’s less stretchy than a bind-off that includes a yo after every stitch, but much more stretchy than a regular ribbing bind-off that doesn’t include one. I really like to use this one for toe-up socks, and ribbing on sleeve cuffs. It doesn’t flare out as much as, for example, the Russian bind-off does.

Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine Blue

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The stretchy yo bind-off for 2×2 rib step by step

In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:
K2, insert tip of the left-hand needle into first stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the second stitch, (yo, p1, then grab the 2nd and 3rd sts, and pass them both over the st just purled) twice, *(k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into first stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the second stitch) twice, (yo, p1, then grab the 2nd and 3rd sts, and pass them both over the st just purled) twice*; repeat *-* to end.
Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in 2×2 rib.
Knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle….
…., and pass this second stitch over the first one.
You have now bound-off a stitch!
Next, work a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle.
Next is working a purl stitch.
Depending on your knitting style, it may help to secure the yo of the previous step with your right index finger while you work the purl stitch.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second and third stitches on the right-hand needle….
… and pass them over the purl stitch.
Repeat steps 6-9 for the second purl stitch to be bound off for the ribbing.
Continue working steps 3-5 for every knit stitch you encounter, and steps 6-9 for every purl stitch.
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.

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tutorial – working shadow wrap short rows on the WS

Working shadow wrap short rows on the WS - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Short rows are a very handy way to create shaping in knitted fabric. Use it, for example, to raise the back of the neck in sweaters, or turn the heel in socks. As a matter of fact, I first encountered these shadow wrap short rows in this sock project I was knitting. I really like them, because just like German short rows, you end up with some sort of “double stitch” that is pretty invisible in the resulting fabric. The way to go about making that double stitch is quite different, though.

Grab your materials and let’s get started! As with all short rows, they can be worked on both right side and wrong side rows. In this tutorial, I’ll focus on the working the shadow wrap short rows on the wrong side of the fabric. For the one about the right side, click here.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting. Brand unknown.

Working shadow wrap short rows on the WS step by step

Work as instructed by your pattern on the wrong side of the fabric, until the point where you are to turn for the short row.
Before you turn, work a modified Left-Leaning Lifted Increase (LLIP) into the next stitch on your left-hand needle.
To do so, first slip the next stitch from the left-hand to the right-hand needle.
Next, insert your left-hand needle from bottom to top into the horizontal purl bump directly below the stitch slipped to the right-hand needle, and place it on the left-hand needle.
This is where the modification comes in, with a regular LLIP, you would insert the needle into the second horizontal purl bump below the stitch slipped to the right-hand needle.
Now purl into the loop you just placed on the left-hand needle.
Do you see in the picture below, of the result of this step how it sits next to its “shadow stitch”?
Slip the original stitch together with its “shadow” back to the left-hand needle.
Next, turn your work and knit back to where your pattern says.
When you work back to the shadow wrap on the wrong side, just purl the 2 shadow stitches together as if they are a single stitch, to close the short row without any gaps in your fabric.
And this is how to work shadow wrap short rows on the WS!

The result

Please note that in the below picture, I’ve worked 2 sets of shadow wrap short rows on the wrong side, as well as 2 on the right side. The tutorial on how to work shadow wrap short rows on the RS can be found here.

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tutorial – working the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 st increase

Working the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 st increase - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In one of my new shawl patterns, I used the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 stitch or M5 increase. So, time for a new tutorial! With this increase, 1 stitch is increased to 5 by working [k1, p1] twice in the same loop, followed by another k1. That said, if you’d like to increase 7 or even 9 stitches instead of 5, just work more repeats of [k1, p1] into the original stitch.

Let’s get our materials and get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) increase step by step

To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the increase.
First, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Next, wrap the yarn around the needle …
… and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Next, move the yarn to the front of the work.
Insert the needle into the stitch as if to purl…
….wrap the yarn around the needle.
.. and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Next, move the yarn back to the back of the work.
Repeat steps 2 to 9 once more, followed by steps 2 to 4 once more to create all the extra stitches needed.
After this, you can slide the original stitch off the left-hand needle to conclude the increase.

The result

In the picture below, I’ve also worked a wrong-side row after the row with the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 stitch increase. Please also keep in mind that here, I made the increase in a stockinette fabric. Usually, It would be used somewhere in lace patterning.

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tutorial – working shadow wrap short rows on the RS

Working shadow wrap short rows on the RS - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting. Brand unknown.

Working shadow wrap short rows on the RS step by step

I will show you how to work the shadow wrap short row, using this little swatch.
Work as instructed by your pattern on the RS of the fabric, until the point where you are to turn for the short row.
Before you turn, work a Right-leaning Lifted Increase (RLI) into the next stitch on your left-hand needle.
To do so, insert your right-hand needle from back to front into the right leg of the stitch that is directly below the next stitch on the needle…
… and place it on the left-hand needle.
Next, knit this new loop…
… and place it back on the left-hand needle.
Do you see how it sits next to its “shadow stitch”?
Next, turn your work and purl back to where your pattern says.
Your pattern may also tell you to work another short row on the WS of the fabric.
When you work back to the shadow wrap on the right side, just knit the 2 shadow stitches together as if they are a single stitch, to close the short row without any gaps in your fabric.
Do you also see the other stitch with a shadow stitch on the left-hand needle?

The result

This is how to work shadow wrap short rows on the RS! Please note that in the below picture, I’ve worked 2 sets of shadow wrap short rows on the right, as well as 2 on the wrong side. The tutorial on how to work shadow wrap short rows on the WS will be published soon.

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tutorial – reattaching an applied border

In a recent post, I showed you how to remove an applied border, in order to reattach it later on. For example, after a couple of more rounds or rows in the main body of the project have been worked. But, this only does any good, if you also know how to reattach it again as well. So, in the name of science, I tried it out on a swatch. In this post, I’ll show you exactly what I did to reattach the removed knitted-on border.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the colors Lime and Vintage Pink.

Other tools: Some spare knitting needles, and a crochet hook in the same size or slightly smaller than your knitting needles. For example, this Pony Aluminum Crochet Hook in size 4 mm. I also used a darning needle, a length of smooth crochet cotton, and a stitch holder.

Reattaching the applied border step by step

For this tutorial, I’m continuing with the swatch I used for the tutorial on removing the applied border. I worked extra rows in the pink part to simulate what I want to do with the big round project. To get started on reattaching it, I arranged both the border and the main body of the project with the right sides of the fabric pointing up.
To get started, put the crochet hook through the first loop of the border. Do you see that it peeks through a larger green loop?
Next, slip the first stitch of the body off the needle, and unto the crochet hook.
Next, insert the crochet hook into the larger green loop on the left, where the first one was coming through. Pull it through the two other loops on the hook.
Now insert the crochet through the next pink stitch of the body, and through the next green border stitch on the waste yarn….
… and pull it through the loops already on the hook.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 until there are no more free loops of the border and body are available.
The last loop on the crochet hook can be placed on the holder or needle holding the other life border stitches, for the final finishing steps.

So, this is how to go about reattaching a removed applied border!

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tutorial – removing an applied border

For a recent project, I’m working an applied border around a pi-shawl. Nearing the end of the border, it seems that there will be yarn left. This could be used to work a couple of more rounds in the body of the shawl. From forum posts, I understood that it is possible to “unzip” an applied border from its project. It could then be reapplied later on. But how to go about removing an applied border, exactly, remains elusive.

So, in the name of science, I tried it out on a swatch. In this post, I’ll show you exactly what I did to remove the knitted-on border, ready to be reattached later on.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the colors Lime and Vintage Pink.

Removing the applied border step by step

For this tutorial, I used a swatch I had already lying around. It was originally used to show the ribbed heart stitch. With the applied border, I started out with one repeat of the leaf border I’m working on the big round project. After that I condensed it a bit down to reduce the amount of knitting.
Before unzipping the connecting stitches between body and border, I first want to put at least one set of stitches on a holder. This prevents it from unraveling where I don’t want it. To do so, I first flipped the entire piece, so the wrong side of the body is pointing up.
See those pink stitches hugging the green ones? I’m inserting my knitting needle underneath the leg on the right.
This is how it looks when all pink stitches have been placed on the knitting needle.
Next, I rotated the piece a bit, so now the life border stitches are facing me. I placed them on a stitch holder, except for the very last stitch, that threads through the first pink stitch on the knitting needle.
Carefully work this stitch loose, by using the crochet hook to hook underneath the horizontal bar of green yarn just above and to the left of the first pink stitch on the knitting needle in the picture above.
You’ll see that you’ll get slightly large loose loops of live border stitches.
Of course, we don’t want those stitches to unravel either, so I caught them with my darning needle and some waste yarn.
Please note, that in this picture, I’ve flipped the piece again. Now it’s with the right side of the body facing up.
In this upwards orientation, I now also see that I can place the green border stitches on the waste yarn, before actually pulling everything loose.
Just insert the darning needle underneath the upwards leg of the green stitches. This is directly to the right of the stitches that connect the border to the body.
After securing all stitches, and pulling the connecting stitches loose, you have the below situation. Ready to continue with your plans for the project!
In my case, I will work extra rows in the pink part to simulate what I want to do with the big round project.

So, this is how to go about removing an applied border! The tutorial in which I show you how to reattach the border can be found here.

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tutorial – how to make the most of remaining yarn

How to make the most of remaining yarn - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

When you have a limited amount of yarn, it’s pretty common to want to make the most of it. I often have a limited amount of a specific fingering weight yarn available, with which I want to knit a shawl. Especially when working with a shawl shape and construction that leads to ever-growing rows, that can be a challenge. Take, for example, a top-down triangle, or crescent shawl. But also with side-ways knit projects, it can be very useful to know whether another repeat before the mid-way point of the project is possible.

For this, I usually weigh my yarn. You can, of course, use a kitchen scale. Most kitchen scales have an accuracy of 1 g. This means that the scale will provide a reading for up to 1 gram above or below the object’s true weight. Especially when working with thinner yarns, this may mean that the reading is just not accurate enough to go on. In those cases, it can be advisable to use a precision scale, that measures with an accuracy of 0.1 g. The benefit of precision scales is, usually also, that they are smaller and therefor easier to take along when knitting on the go.

Once you use a specific scale for a project, it’s best to stick to that one for the duration of the project. Calibration may differ between scales, potentially causing issues when you have less yarn remaining than expected based on previous measurements with the other scale. Below, I’ll give you more information about the scales I use, and how I go about how to make the most of remaining yarn in a project.

Materials used

Angled view of several bright yellow skeins of yarn on a white plank background. There is a white label attached, with RMR on it in shiny letters.

Flat lay view of 2 very small scales together with a pencil and a row counter for scale.

Yarn: RMR Yarn Co. Zihuatanejo DK in Casi Casi.

Scales: These are the scales I use for my knitting. The larger one was picked up at a local store, it has an accuracy of 0.1 g, and can weigh up to 200 g. The smaller one is a Christen Swiss OR-10 pocket scale. The latter is accurate to 0.1 g, and has a weighing capacity up to 150 g. The pencil and row counter are in the picture for scale. As you can see, the small one, is really very, very small.

How to make the most of remaining yarn in a project, an example

Usually I don’t bother weighing my yarn, until I see that I’m down to somewhere into the last ball of yarn. At that time, I start weighing after every 2 rows, and write down how much yarn was left. When doing this a couple of times, you can calculate how much yarn was used for every 2 rows. Even more, you can also see how much the yarn usage increases when the rows get longer. In the below pictures, I’m using my tiny scale, using the cover to increase the platform size to rest the ball of yarn on.

A ball of yellow yarn on a tiny scale, there is also a slightly larger scale visible

Close up of the weight of a yellow ball of yarn on a tiny scale: there is 87.1 g remaining.

In the below picture, you can see the notes I scribbled on the back of the draft pattern of my Atomic Tangerine shawl. The middle column contains the weights, and with the arcs on the right you see what the weight differences were between the various rows. The example below shows, that I had 85 g left after row 50, which means I could get at most 8 other rows out of the remaining yarn. But given the rate at which the yarn usage went up, probably 6 rows at most. When binding off my shawl projects, I usually use the Russian bind-off, which, in my experience, uses almost as much yarn as 2 rows. So, taking this into account, there is only enough yarn left for another 4 rows before starting the bind-off.

And that’s exactly how it worked out for this pattern!

The back of a draft pattern, on which weights are scribbled in pencil — Weighing notes on Atomic Tangerine

Projects with multiple colors

You may wonder how this looks when working on a project that uses multiple colors. In that case, depending on the patterning, you may want to weigh either after every 2 rows, or after each pattern repeat. In this example, I’m working on a mosaic color-work project. With mosaic knitting, you alternate colors every 2 rows. So, in this case, weighing after every pattern repeat makes the most sense. And yes, in this example, I’m using my kitchen scale.

Angled view of a mosaic knitting project in yellow and teal, the teal yarn is positioned on a scale. — Weighing on a kitchen scale

Weighing notes, scribbled in blue pen on graph paper — Weighing notes

As you can see, these notes look a tad more complex, because the yarn usage arcs for the various colors cross each other. At this moment, I’m still working on this design. But, given the amount of yarn remaining, it’s time to start the final section of this shawl. To be continued!

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tutorial – working a cabled bind-off

The cabled bind-off may look complex, but it’s really nothing more than a twist of a fat i-cord bind-off. Usually, an i-cord bind-off is made with 3 to 4 stitches. However, to make it a cabled bind-off, once every few rows the order of the stitches on your knitting needle is changed. These crossings are what gives cables their characteristic look. To give each half of the cable a bit of heft, they need to have enough stitches. Also, with cable knitting, you usually work stitches in stockinette. So, to make the cables pop against the body of the piece you’re binding off, a contrasting stitch in reverse stockinette is used.

In this example, I’ll be showing you a cabled bind-off with a 3/3 RC (3/3 right-cross cable). For this we will need 6 stitches, plus 1 purl stitch to make them pop. This bind-off is worked over a multiple of 6 stitches in the piece to bind-off, plus 1 extra stitches to bind-off the cable itself.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the colors Vintage Pink, and Lime Green.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown. You will also need a cable needle in a similar or slightly smaller size as your knitting needles.

The cabled bind-off step by step

In short, the instructions for this bind-off would look something like this:

Cabled bind off: Cast-on 7 sts, *k6, p2tog, sl 7 sts just worked back to left-hand needle, pull yarn tight across back of sts; rep from * until 1 st remains.
Next: Bind-off 6 sts by knitting 1 st, *then knitting the next st and passing the one already on the right-hand needle over the newly worked stitch*, work *-* 5 times, p2tog, and fasten off.

You can start casting off as soon as the last row or round of your work has been knit, and after your work has been turned when working flat back and forth.
With the right side facing, cast-on 7 stitches. I used the knitted-on method.
Knit 6 stitches.
Purl 2 stitches together, 1 from the bind-off, and the other one from the body of the work.
Move yarn to the back of the work, then slip the 7 stitches on the right-needle back to the left hand-needle one by one.
Repeat steps 3 to 5 once.
Next, we’re going tot work the cable twist row with a 3/3 RC (3/3 right-cross cable). First, slip the next 3 stitches to the cable needle, and place at the back of the work.
Knit 3 stitches….
…. finish the cable by knitting 3 stitches from the cable needle.
Next, purl 2 stitches together. Again, one from the bind-off, and the other one from the body of the work.
Move yarn to the back of the work, then slip the 7 stitches on the right-needle back to the left hand-needle one by one.
Repeat steps 3 to 5 another 3 times. You have now bound-off 6 stitches.
Repeat steps 3 to 12 until only 1 stitch is left over.
Please note that in my swatch, I hadn’t accounted for this last stitch. So in this example, I had no stitches left over at this point.
To finish, bind-off 6 stitches by knitting 1 stitch, *then knitting the next stitch and passing the one already on the right-hand needle over the newly worked stitch*, work *-* 5 times, purl the last 2 stitches together, and fasten off.
In my example, I did not have any stitch left to do the p2tog with, so I just fastened off.

Pretty, right?!

A few notes

In this example, I worked the cabled bind-off in a contrasting color. You can, of course, also work the bind-off in the same color as the project itself.
All i-cord based bind-off edge on pieces worked in stockinette stitch are very pretty. As you know, however, stockinette tends to curl…. A lot. An i-cord bind-off is usually not sufficient to prevent curling. For this, you will have to look at other methods, such as garter stitch or rib.
Depending on the difference between your stitch, and row gauge, the bind-off may be tighter than the body of the work. If this is not desired in your piece, you could consider going up a needle size. Working an extra row, without connecting it to the body once every few repeats, may also be sufficient to get enough length at the edge.

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tutorial – the buttonhole loop bind-off

The buttonhole loop bind-off is very similar to the standard knitted bind-off, but with a twist! There are loops of yarn worked right at the edge of the work, which can be utilized as buttonholes. Of course, you can also just use this bind-off because it’s decorative. And yes, in this tutorial I’m using the swatch of the slip stitch rib stitch pattern, I showed you two weeks ago. Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The buttonhole loop bind-off step by step

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off, and knit the first stitch.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle….
…., and pass this second stitch over the first one.
You have now bound-off a stitch!
Repeat steps 2-4 until you have reached the spot where you want to have the buttonhole.
In my case, I want the buttonhole right between the 2 purl stitches in the rib. So I continued binding stitches off, until I had worked the first of the 2 purl stitches.
Next, we want to make a series of loops to accommodate the buttons you’ve chosen. Depending on the size of the buttons, You may want to work longer loops than I’m doing in this example.
To start the first loop, place the stitch from the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle.
Next, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
… and pull it through. You have now made 1 “chain”.
This is very similar to working a chain with a crochet hook, hence the name I’m giving it.
I want a loop consisting of 3 “chains”, so I have repeated steps 6-9 another two times.
To close the loop, I then worked steps 2-4 once more.

The result

In the below picture, I worked another 2 buttonholes, again centered in the purl part of the rib patterning. I really like this result!

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tutorial – working a yo at the beginning of a row

Recently, I read about someone wondering why and how to work a yarn over at the beginning of a row. Since this is a technique I regularly use, I thought to write a tutorial about it. So, first: why would you want to work a yarn over at the beginning of a row?

When I do this, I usually do that at the beginning of a wrong side (inwards going) row on a knitted-on or applied border. This can be in a project where a border is actually applied. Take for example my Sunglow Forest shawl. This however also applies to designs that are knit sideways, and in which the border is worked at the same time as the body of the shawl. My Kurkuma shawl is an example of this type of project. In both examples, I work “yo, k2tog” at the beginning of every wrong side (inwards going) row. It creates a nice loopy edge that can be used to place your blocking pins in. I also feel this yarn over gives a bit of extra stretch, right at the edge of the project.

Read on to see how to work a yarn over at the beginning of a row!

Materials used

Yarn: Ice Yarns Merino Silk (95% Merino, 5% Silk; 225 m (246 yds) / 50 g) that I overdyed with the exhaust from an onion skin dye bath. This yarn is unfortunately discontinued.

Needles: Some Addi circular needles.

Working a yo at the beginning of a row step by step

First, make sure, you’re right at the beginning of the row where you want to make the yarn over.
It’s a bit hard to see because the first 2 stitches on the needle overlap each other a bit, but the first 3 stitches are to be worked as knit stitches to make stockinette.
To make a yarn over, I usually just wrap it around the right-hand needle. So that’s what I also do here. Just ignore that it’s at the beginning of the row.
You may want to hold the yarn on the right-hand needle to make sure it doesn’t slip off, until you’ve worked the next stitch. Once the next stitch is worked, the yo will be fixed in place on the knitting needle.
Below, you can see the result after I’ve worked a k2tog over the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle.
As you can see, that yarn over isn’t going anywhere now!

And that is all there is to it! Just work further as your pattern describes, and treat the yarn over like the regular stitch on the needle it really is. Below, you can see how that edge looks like, when viewed from the right side of the fabric. Pretty, right?!

The result of working a yo at the beginning of a row

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