Gothic Flamingo is a shallow, triangle scarf, knit sideways. This design features lace patterning, worked at the same time as the body of the shawl. While the sample shown is worked in an aran weight yarn, the design is wonderfully suited to be worked in other yarn weights.
The pattern contains both fully written out and charted instructions for the lace. The lace in the body of the shawl is worked on both wrong and right side rows.
This pattern is therefore suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.
Sizes and finished measurements
One size (easily adjusted) – finished dimensions: Span width of 207 cm (81 ½ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 68 cm (26 ¾ inches), measured after blocking.
Change the size of the Gothic Flamingo shawl by using either lighter or heavier yarn and/or working less (or more) repeats. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.
Pattern details
Gauge: 20 sts / 17 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical for this design.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)
Yarn
493 m (465 yds) / 275 g RMR Yarn Co. Gloria aran (85% Merino, 15% Nylon; 179 m (196 yds) / 100 g) in the color “El Barney”.
Substitute a plied aran weight yarn in a solid or tonal colorway for a similar result.
Materials
Size 5 mm (US 8) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
1 stitch marker to differentiate the body from the edging of the shawl
In one of my new shawl patterns, I used the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 stitch or M5 increase. So, time for a new tutorial! With this increase, 1 stitch is increased to 5 by working [k1, p1] twice in the same loop, followed by another k1. That said, if you’d like to increase 7 or even 9 stitches instead of 5, just work more repeats of [k1, p1] into the original stitch.
Let’s get our materials and get started!
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
Working the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) increase step by step
To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the increase.
First, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Next, wrap the yarn around the needle …
… and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Next, move the yarn to the front of the work.
Insert the needle into the stitch as if to purl…
….wrap the yarn around the needle.
.. and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Next, move the yarn back to the back of the work.
Repeat steps 2 to 9 once more, followed by steps 2 to 4 once more to create all the extra stitches needed.
After this, you can slide the original stitch off the left-hand needle to conclude the increase.
The result
In the picture below, I’ve also worked a wrong-side row after the row with the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 stitch increase. Please also keep in mind that here, I made the increase in a stockinette fabric. Usually, It would be used somewhere in lace patterning.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
Short rows are a very handy way to create shaping in knitted fabric. Use it, for example, to raise the back of the neck in sweaters, or turn the heel in socks. As a matter of fact, I first encountered these shadow wrap short rows in this sock project I was knitting. I really like them, because just like German short rows, you end up with some sort of “double stitch” that is pretty invisible in the resulting fabric. The way to go about making that double stitch is quite different, though.
Grab your materials and let’s get started! As with all short rows, they can be worked on both right side and wrong side rows. In this tutorial, I’ll focus on the working the shadow wrap short rows on the right side of the fabric.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting. Brand unknown.
Working shadow wrap short rows on the RS step by step
I will show you how to work the shadow wrap short row, using this little swatch.
Work as instructed by your pattern on the RS of the fabric, until the point where you are to turn for the short row.
To do so, insert your right-hand needle from back to front into the right leg of the stitch that is directly below the next stitch on the needle…
… and place it on the left-hand needle.
Next, knit this new loop…
… and place it back on the left-hand needle.
Do you see how it sits next to its “shadow stitch”?
Next, turn your work and purl back to where your pattern says.
Your pattern may also tell you to work another short row on the WS of the fabric.
When you work back to the shadow wrap on the right side, just knit the 2 shadow stitches together as if they are a single stitch, to close the short row without any gaps in your fabric.
Do you also see the other stitch with a shadow stitch on the left-hand needle?
The result
This is how to work shadow wrap short rows on the RS! Please note that in the below picture, I’ve worked 2 sets of shadow wrap short rows on the right, as well as 2 on the wrong side. The tutorial on how to work shadow wrap short rows on the WS will be published soon.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
A Vikkel braid, also known as an Estonian or lateral braid, is a decorative knitting technique used to create a horizontal braid-like texture across the fabric. It’s often used in traditional Estonian knitting, especially in mittens and cuffs, to add both structure and ornamentation. It can serve as a nice demarcation of the ribbing and the rest of the fabric. Especially when working the Vikkel braid in a contrasting color. Its key feature, is that it creates a raised, twisted horizontal band that looks like a chain of stitches.
The braid is worked in a single row. It’s common to have a plain row in the main color above and below it to frame it nicely. This also prevents the purl stitches in the ribbing from distorting the braid. Some folks advise dropping down a needle size when working the braid, because it can be a tad loose otherwise. In this how-to, I didn’t do that and found the tension to be ok. But, be warned, and try it out for yourself and adjust where needed.
In this article, I’m showing you how to do a Vikkel braid worked flat in a single contrasting color.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in Marine Blue for MC and Tea Rose for the CC.
Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
Working a Vikkel braid in a contrasting color step by step
A Vikkel braid can be worked over any number of stitches, after or just before ribbing. In this example, I’m using a swatch in 2×2 rib.
I’m going to work my Vikkel braid onto this swatch.
To prevent any distortion in the braid, I’m working another right side row in 2×2 rib, followed by a wrong side row in purl, both in the main color (MC) used.
That single row without patterning won’t be noticeable in the final result, but will prevent the braid from being wobbly.
With the yarn in the contrasting color (CC), cast-on a stitch. Here I used the knitted-on cast-on, but the cable cast-on would also work.
Slip the newly cast-on stitch back to the left-hand needle.
Next, insert the right-hand needle through the back loop of the 2nd stitch.
Because it’s a stitch in the MC we’re knitting into, wrap the MC yarn around….
…. and pull it through.
Do not slip the stitch of the needle yet!
Now, insert the needle into the first (CC) stitch as if to knit (because we’re going to knit it).
Because this is a CC stitch, we’re knitting into, use the CC yarn to wrap around the needle….
Because we’re working with 2 different colors of yarn, you will have to manage how to hold the strands, and be consistent throughout. I found it easiest to hold them in such a way, that I could grab the MC yarn from below, and the CC yarn from above.
… and pull it through.
Now you can slip the 2 stitches nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle off.
It can be confusing which loops are to be slipped off, in my case it helped to look at the ribbing below the braid. I started out with 2 knit stitches, and CO on one extra. This meant that after slipping 2 stitches off, I had to have 1 knit stitch on the needle left.
Slip the stitch nearest to the tip of the right-hand needle, back to the left-hand needle.
Repeat steps 5-12 until 1 stitch remains.
This is how it looks by then.
Next, knit the stitch using the MC yarn.
Now insert the left-hand needle into the last stitch made with the CC yarn…
… and pass it over the stitch just knit.
Once we’ve done that last step, we can admire our result: A lovely Vikkel braid, worked in a contrasting color!
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
“Blauwe Branding” is Dutch for “Blue surf”, which is exactly what the waves in this stole remind me off! While I made my version in one main color, and four contrast colors, I expect it will be equally gorgeous in a long gradient yarn.
The pattern contains both fully written out and charted instructions for the lace. The lace in the body of the shawl is worked on both wrong and right side rows. The border is worked in garter stitch in the round.
This pattern is therefore suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.
Sizes and finished measurements
One size (easily adjusted) – finished dimensions: 85 cm (33 ½ inches) wide and 160 cm (63 inches) long, measured after blocking.
Adjust the width of the Blauwe Branding stole by changing the number of cast on stitches. Change the length by working more or fewer repeats of the body pattern. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.
Pattern details
Gauge: 17.8 sts / 17.7 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over lace pattern, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical for this design.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size)
Yarn
Finull by Rauma (100% wool; 175 m (191 yds) / 50 g) in the following colors:
C1: 350 m (382 yds) / 100 g in color 4025 C2: 88 m (96 yds) / 25 g in color 4136 C3: 158 m (172 yds) / 45 g in color 4887 C4: 158 m (172 yds) / 45 g in color 4023 C5: 70 m (76 yds) / 20 g in color 0484
Substitute fingering or sport weight 2-ply wool yarn in 5 colors for a similar result. Alternatively, replace C2 to C5 with 474 m (516 yds) / 135 g) of a gradient yarn with long color runs.
Materials
Size 3.5 mm (US 4) / 80 cm (32 inches) and 150 cm (60 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
Waste yarn for provisional cast-on
Crochet hook for provisional cast-on, in a size similar to the knitting needles used.
Stitch markers to use in between lace repeats (optional)
In a recent post, I showed you how to remove an applied border, in order to reattach it later on. For example, after a couple of more rounds or rows in the main body of the project have been worked. But, this only does any good, if you also know how to reattach it again as well. So, in the name of science, I tried it out on a swatch. In this post, I’ll show you exactly what I did to reattach the removed knitted-on border.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the colors Lime and Vintage Pink.
Other tools: Some spare knitting needles, and a crochet hook in the same size or slightly smaller than your knitting needles. For example, this Pony Aluminum Crochet Hook in size 4 mm. I also used a darning needle, a length of smooth crochet cotton, and a stitch holder.
Reattaching the applied border step by step
For this tutorial, I’m continuing with the swatch I used for the tutorial on removing the applied border. I worked extra rows in the pink part to simulate what I want to do with the big round project. To get started on reattaching it, I arranged both the border and the main body of the project with the right sides of the fabric pointing up.
To get started, put the crochet hook through the first loop of the border. Do you see that it peeks through a larger green loop?
Next, slip the first stitch of the body off the needle, and unto the crochet hook.
Next, insert the crochet hook into the larger green loop on the left, where the first one was coming through. Pull it through the two other loops on the hook.
Now insert the crochet through the next pink stitch of the body, and through the next green border stitch on the waste yarn….
… and pull it through the loops already on the hook.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 until there are no more free loops of the border and body are available.
The last loop on the crochet hook can be placed on the holder or needle holding the other life border stitches, for the final finishing steps.
So, this is how to go about reattaching a removed applied border!
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
A Vikkel braid, also known as an Estonian or lateral braid, is a decorative knitting technique used to create a horizontal braid-like texture across the fabric. It’s often used in traditional Estonian knitting, especially in mittens and cuffs, to add both structure and ornamentation. It can serve as a nice demarcation of the ribbing and the rest of the fabric. Its key feature, is that it creates a raised, twisted horizontal band that looks like a chain of stitches.
This braid is worked in a single round. It’s common to have a plain round above and below it to frame it nicely, and to prevent the purl stitches in the ribbing to distort the braid. Some folks advise dropping down a needle size when working the braid, because it can be a tad loose otherwise. In this how-to, I didn’t do that and found the tension to be ok. But, be warned, and try it out for yourself and adjust where needed.
In this article, I’m showing you how to do a Vikkel braid in the round, in a single color. In this post, you can see how to work it flat. The main difference between the in the round version and the flat version, is how it’s started and ended. When working a Vikkel braid in the round, it’s prettiest if the switch to a new round is jogless. There are, of course, many ways to go about it. The version shown here, is just the one that I like best. I’ll show how to braid a lateral braid in a contrasting color, sometime in the future.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.
Needles: This is a tiny circular needle by Addi in the size 4 mm (US 6), and a length of 25 cm (10 inches).
Working a Vikkel braid in the round step by step
A Vikkel braid can be worked over any number of stitches, after or just before ribbing. In this example, I’m using a swatch worked in the round, in plain stockinette.
I’m going to work my Vikkel braid onto this swatch.
Slip the last stitch of the previous round from the right-hand to the left-hand needle.
Next, insert the right-hand needle through the back loop of the 2nd stitch.
Wrap the yarn around….
And yes, I know I wrapped the yarn in the picture around the needle not the correct way around. It still delivered knitting!
…. and pull it through.
Do not slip the stitch of the needle yet!
Now, insert the needle into the first stitch as if to knit (because we’re going to knit it).
Again, wrap the yarn around the needle….
… and pull it through.
Now you can slip the 2 stitches nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle off.
Slip the stitch nearest to the tip of the right-hand needle, back to the left-hand needle.
Repeat steps 3-10 until 1 stitch remains.
This is how it looks when working the Vikkel braid across the round.
Next, repeat steps 3-9 once more.
Now it’s time to close the round in such a way that the Vikkel braid appears jogless.
First, insert your right-hand knitting needle from bottom to top through both legs of the first “V” of the Vikkel braid.
Then, lift both loops onto the needle as pictured:
Now slip the stitch nearest to the tip of the right-hand needle, to the left-hand needle.
To finish the round, pull both Vikkel-braid loops over the stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Slip the stitch back to the right-hand needle, and you’re ready to continue your knitting project.
The result
In the below picture, you see the result, after I’ve inserted an end-of-round stitch marker, and worked a bit more than 1 round. Pretty jogless, if you ask me!
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
For a recent project, I’m working an applied border around a pi-shawl. Nearing the end of the border, it seems that there will be yarn left. This could be used to work a couple of more rounds in the body of the shawl. From forum posts, I understood that it is possible to “unzip” an applied border from its project. It could then be reapplied later on. But how to go about removing an applied border, exactly, remains elusive.
So, in the name of science, I tried it out on a swatch. In this post, I’ll show you exactly what I did to remove the knitted-on border, ready to be reattached later on.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the colors Lime and Vintage Pink.
Other tools: Some spare knitting needles, and a crochet hook in the same size or slightly smaller than your knitting needles. For example, this Pony Aluminum Crochet Hook in size 4 mm. I also used a darning needle, a length of smooth crochet cotton, and a stitch holder.
Removing the applied border step by step
For this tutorial, I used a swatch I had already lying around. It was originally used to show the ribbed heart stitch. With the applied border, I started out with one repeat of the leaf border I’m working on the big round project. After that I condensed it a bit down to reduce the amount of knitting.
Before unzipping the connecting stitches between body and border, I first want to put at least one set of stitches on a holder. This prevents it from unraveling where I don’t want it. To do so, I first flipped the entire piece, so the wrong side of the body is pointing up.
See those pink stitches hugging the green ones? I’m inserting my knitting needle underneath the leg on the right.
This is how it looks when all pink stitches have been placed on the knitting needle.
Next, I rotated the piece a bit, so now the life border stitches are facing me. I placed them on a stitch holder, except for the very last stitch, that threads through the first pink stitch on the knitting needle.
Carefully work this stitch loose, by using the crochet hook to hook underneath the horizontal bar of green yarn just above and to the left of the first pink stitch on the knitting needle in the picture above.
You’ll see that you’ll get slightly large loose loops of live border stitches.
Of course, we don’t want those stitches to unravel either, so I caught them with my darning needle and some waste yarn.
Please note, that in this picture, I’ve flipped the piece again. Now it’s with the right side of the body facing up.
In this upwards orientation, I now also see that I can place the green border stitches on the waste yarn, before actually pulling everything loose.
Just insert the darning needle underneath the upwards leg of the green stitches. This is directly to the right of the stitches that connect the border to the body.
After securing all stitches, and pulling the connecting stitches loose, you have the below situation. Ready to continue with your plans for the project!
In my case, I will work extra rows in the pink part to simulate what I want to do with the big round project.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
A Vikkel braid, also known as an Estonian or lateral braid, is a decorative knitting technique used to create a horizontal braid-like texture across the fabric. It’s often used in traditional Estonian knitting, especially in mittens and cuffs, to add both structure and ornamentation. It can serve as a nice demarcation of the ribbing and the rest of the fabric. Its key feature, is that it creates a raised, twisted horizontal band that looks like a chain of stitches.
The braid is worked in a single row. It’s common to have a plain row above and below it to frame it nicely, and to prevent the purl stitches in the ribbing to distort the braid. Some folks advise dropping down a needle size when working the braid, because it can be a tad loose otherwise. In this how-to, I didn’t do that and found the tension to be ok. But, be warned, and try it out for yourself and adjust where needed.
In this article, I’m showing you how to do a Vikkel braid worked flat in a single color. It is, however, also possible to work it in the round, and in a contrasting color. I’ll show those variations sometime in the future.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine Blue.
Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
Working a Vikkel braid step by step
A Vikkel braid can be worked over any number of stitches, after or just before ribbing. In this example, I’m using a swatch in 2×2 rib.
I’m going to work my Vikkel braid onto this swatch.
To prevent any distortion in the braid, I’m working another right side row in 2×2 rib, followed by a wrong side row in purl.
That single row without patterning won’t be noticeable in the final result, but will prevent the braid from being wobbly.
Slip the newly cast-on stitch back to the left-hand needle.
Next, insert the right-hand needle through the back loop of the 2nd stitch.
Wrap the yarn around….
…. and pull it through.
Do not slip the stitch of the needle yet!
Now, insert the needle into the first stitch as if to knit (because we’re going to knit it).
Again, wrap the yarn around the needle….
… and pull it through.
Now you can slip the 2 stitches nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle off.
Slip the stitch nearest to the tip of the right-hand needle, back to the left-hand needle.
Repeat steps 5-12 until 1 stitch remains, then repeat steps 5-11 once more.
This is how it looks by then. Pretty, right?!
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
When you have a limited amount of yarn, it’s pretty common to want to make the most of it. I often have a limited amount of a specific fingering weight yarn available, with which I want to knit a shawl. Especially when working with a shawl shape and construction that leads to ever-growing rows, that can be a challenge. Take, for example, a top-down triangle, or crescent shawl. But also with side-ways knit projects, it can be very useful to know whether another repeat before the mid-way point of the project is possible.
For this, I usually weigh my yarn. You can, of course, use a kitchen scale. Most kitchen scales have an accuracy of 1 g. This means that the scale will provide a reading for up to 1 gram above or below the object’s true weight. Especially when working with thinner yarns, this may mean that the reading is just not accurate enough to go on. In those cases, it can be advisable to use a precision scale, that measures with an accuracy of 0.1 g. The benefit of precision scales is, usually also, that they are smaller and therefor easier to take along when knitting on the go.
Once you use a specific scale for a project, it’s best to stick to that one for the duration of the project. Calibration may differ between scales, potentially causing issues when you have less yarn remaining than expected based on previous measurements with the other scale. Below, I’ll give you more information about the scales I use, and how I go about how to make the most of remaining yarn in a project.
Scales: These are the scales I use for my knitting. The larger one was picked up at a local store, it has an accuracy of 0.1 g, and can weigh up to 200 g. The smaller one is a Christen Swiss OR-10 pocket scale. The latter is accurate to 0.1 g, and has a weighing capacity up to 150 g. The pencil and row counter are in the picture for scale. As you can see, the small one, is really very, very small.
How to make the most of remaining yarn in a project, an example
Usually I don’t bother weighing my yarn, until I see that I’m down to somewhere into the last ball of yarn. At that time, I start weighing after every 2 rows, and write down how much yarn was left. When doing this a couple of times, you can calculate how much yarn was used for every 2 rows. Even more, you can also see how much the yarn usage increases when the rows get longer. In the below pictures, I’m using my tiny scale, using the cover to increase the platform size to rest the ball of yarn on.
In the below picture, you can see the notes I scribbled on the back of the draft pattern of my Atomic Tangerine shawl. The middle column contains the weights, and with the arcs on the right you see what the weight differences were between the various rows. The example below shows, that I had 85 g left after row 50, which means I could get at most 8 other rows out of the remaining yarn. But given the rate at which the yarn usage went up, probably 6 rows at most. When binding off my shawl projects, I usually use the Russian bind-off, which, in my experience, uses almost as much yarn as 2 rows. So, taking this into account, there is only enough yarn left for another 4 rows before starting the bind-off.
And that’s exactly how it worked out for this pattern!
Weighing notes on Atomic Tangerine
Projects with multiple colors
You may wonder how this looks when working on a project that uses multiple colors. In that case, depending on the patterning, you may want to weigh either after every 2 rows, or after each pattern repeat. In this example, I’m working on a mosaic color-work project. With mosaic knitting, you alternate colors every 2 rows. So, in this case, weighing after every pattern repeat makes the most sense. And yes, in this example, I’m using my kitchen scale.
Weighing on a kitchen scaleWeighing notes
As you can see, these notes look a tad more complex, because the yarn usage arcs for the various colors cross each other. At this moment, I’m still working on this design. But, given the amount of yarn remaining, it’s time to start the final section of this shawl. To be continued!
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
