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tutorial – knitting the yarn over bind-off (version 2)

Knitting the YO bind-off (version 2) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In this tutorial I show you how to work a second version of the yarn over bind-off for stockinette. Remember, the thing that all yarn over bind-off have in common, is that they all use an extra yo somewhere in the bind-off sequence to give the edge some extra stretch. Where they differ, is how that yo is treated within the bind-off repeat. The one I’m showing in this tutorial is one I really like, because it gives decent stretch without a lot of flare at the edge. Ok, grab your things!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The yarn over bind-off step by step

In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:

*K1, yo, k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into the first and second stitches on the right-hand needle, pass them over the third stitch*; repeat *-* to end.

Please note, that when I mentioned “first” or “second”, I mean the stitch that was knit first or second, not the location relative to the tip of the right-hand needle. Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off, and knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in stockinette stitch.
Next, work a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the first and second stitches on the right-hand needle, and pass them over the third (last knit) one.
Continue working steps 1-4 to the end.
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.

As you can see in the last picture above, this bind-off has barely any flare to it. When seen from the wrong side, the result looks like this:

The result from the WS of knitting the yarn over bind-off - version 2

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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stitch pattern – how to work the spring stitch

How to work the spring stitch - by La Visch Designs

The spring stitch is sometimes referred to as the helical spring stitch, a name inspired by the way the yarn coils into a bobble-like shape. In the photo above, you can already catch a glimpse of the spring bobble stitch pattern in which it’s used. In this post, however, I’ll focus solely on how to work the spring stitch itself. Instructions for the full spring bobble stitch pattern will be available soon.

The spring stitch is worked on the wrong side of the fabric and is created over two stitches. The first stitch forms the base, while the second anchors the coiled yarn in place. Although it may look intricate, it’s actually much easier to work than it appears. Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the spring stitch step by step

First, work to the point where you want to insert the spring stitch. Remember: Work this stitch from the wrong side of the fabric, with the wrong side facing.
Move the yarn to the back of the work, and insert the right-hand needle into the next stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Make sure there is a bit of length visible to both needle tips. The reason will become clear in a moment!
Now wrap the yarn counter-clockwise around both needles for a total of 10 times.
Make sure all loops are stacked, and do not overlap each other, because that would make later steps more difficult.
Wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle….
…. and pull it through all 10 loops plus the original stitch you inserted the needle in.
Next, slip it all of the needle and move the working yarn to right.
Unravel the spring coil along the yarn tail, make sure it’s unraveled all the way from the base to the end-loop.
Now gently pull on the working yarn to cinch the loops up into a coil.
Pull some more, until you have a neat little coil with the tension you like.
When pulling very tight, the coil also gets tighter and smaller. Especially when working the spring bobble stitch pattern with multiple coils, you want to make sure the tension is roughly the same for all coils.
To anchor the coil to the fabric, knit the next stitch.

The result

When you turn the piece around, you see the spring stitch just worked! Neat, right?

stitch pattern – how to work the spring stitch Read More »

tutorial – knitting the yarn over bind-off (version 1)

Knitting the YO bind-off (version 1) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

The thing that all yarn over bind-off have in common, is that they all use an extra yo somewhere in the bind-off sequence to give the edge some extra stretch. Where they differ, is how that yo is treated within the bind-off repeat. The one I’m showing in this tutorial is not really the one I prefer, because it has significant flare at the edge. That said, it’s a good one to know. In a couple of weeks, I’ll share a different yarn over bind-off for stockinette with you. Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The yarn over bind-off step by step

In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:

K1, *k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the second stitch, yo, grab the first st, and pass it over the yo*; repeat *-* to end.

Please note, that when I mentioned “first” or “second”, I mean the stitch that was knit first or second, not the location relative to the tip of the right-hand needle. Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off, and knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in stockinette stitch.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle, and pass this stitch over the second one.
Next, work a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle, and pass it over the yarn over.
Continue working steps 2-5 for every stitch you encounter.
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.

As you can see in the last picture above, this bind-off has quite some flare to it. Reduce the amount of flare by repeating steps 1-5 instead of 2-5. However, this would also reduce the stretchiness. When seen from the wrong side, the result looks like this:

The result from the WS of knitting the yarn over bind-off - version 1

tutorial – knitting the yarn over bind-off (version 1) Read More »

stitch pattern – Byzantine stitch

The Byzantine stitch - by La Visch Designs

The Byzantine stitch pattern is a textured knitting pattern against a background of reverse stockinette stitch. Basically, it’s a variation op 2×2 rib stitch. It may look complicated to work, but it’s really not that hard. You create the effect by pulling up loops between stitches around the column of knit stitches, a couple of rows below the one that you’re working. Next, these loops are slipped one row. Finally, they’re anchored and decreased away by working the k4tog bf decrease. It’s a versatile stitch pattern that can be used in any place you’d used regular ribbing. However, because it’s so pretty, it’s lovely as all-over patterning for blankets, for example.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 2, and in a six-row repeat. Please note that in this swatch, I’ve not used any edge stitches.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
k4tog bf – knit 4 stitches together through the back loop, then knit the same 4 stitches together through the front loop.
p – purl
pulling up a loop – in this stitch pattern this means that you insert your knitting needle underneath the bar between the last and next stitch, 3 rows down. Next, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull it through. Take a look at the photographs below to see how this looks.
sl – slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front
st(s) – stitch(es)

Step 1 - pulling the stitches apart to make the space below the third bar visible — Step 1 – pulling the stitches apart to make the space below the third bar visible

Step 2 - Insert the needle, wrap yarn around and through to pull op a loop — Step 1 – pulling the stitches apart to make the space below the third bar visible

Byzantine stitch instructions

Set-up row 1 (RS): P2, *k2, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Set-up row 2 (WS): K2, *p2, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Set-up rows 3-6: Rep set-up rows 1 and 2 twice.

Row 1 (RS): P2, *pull up a loop underneath the bar between the last and next stitch, 3 rows down, k2, pull up another loop underneath the bar between the last and next stitch, 3 rows down, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (WS): K2, *move the working yarn to the front of the work and sl1, p2, sl1, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 3: P2, *k4tog bf, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 4: K2, *p2, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 5: P2, *k2, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 6: K2, *p2, k2*; rep *-* to end.

Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern until desired length.

Below, you can see how this stitch pattern looks: First as seen from the right side, and then from the wrong side of the fabric.

stitch pattern – Byzantine stitch Read More »

tutorial – the sl3-k1-p3sso right-leaning centered decrease

The sl3-k1-p3sso right-leaning centered decrease - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Recently, I shared with you how to work the slightly left-leaning sl2-k2tog-p2sso decrease. Of course, there is also a centered triple decrease that’s slightly right-leaning: The sl3-k1-p3sso decrease! This abbreviation is short for slip 3, knit 1, pass 3 slipped stitches over. The result is a tidy, symmetrical-looking line that subtly favors one side. In this tutorial, we’ll walk step-by-step through how to work the sl3-k1-p3sso decrease. Let’s pick up our needles and see how to work this decrease!

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a sl3-k1-p3sso step by step

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease. In this case, I want to work the triple decrease 5 stitches in after the garter stitch edge.
Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 3 stitches at the same time as if to knit.
Pass these stitches to the right-hand needle.
This step changes the orientation of the stitches, influencing how they appear when the decrease has been finished.
Now knit the next stitch.
To finish the triple decrease, we will be passing the initially slipped stitches over the knit stitch. First, insert the left-hand needle into those 3 stitches….
…. then pass them over the other stitch.

The result

The below pictures show how it looks after 2 more decrease rows have been worked. First from the right side, then from the wrong side of the fabric. Please note that in order to have any subsequent decreases line up correctly, any new decrease has to be started 2 stitches before the stitch on top of the resulting one from the previous decrease. And that’s all there is to it!

Multiple sl3-k1-p3sso decreases as seen from the RS

Multiple sl3-k1-p3sso decreases as seen from the WS

tutorial – the sl3-k1-p3sso right-leaning centered decrease Read More »

tutorial – the k4tog bf decrease

The k4tog bf decrease - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

As part of this stitch pattern that I encountered, there was also this “k4tog bf” decrease. The abbreviation stands for “knit 4 stitches together back front”. It’s a new to me way to reduce the number of stitches from 4 to 2 stitches. Of course, you could also just combine a k2tog and your choice of a left-leaning decrease, take for example the skp decrease. However, the k4tog bf decrease looks quite different, so it really has its place. And that stitch pattern I encountered it in? I will post it soon!

Below you can find how to work this decrease, so get your materials and follow along!

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a k4tog bf step by step

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease. In this case, I want to work the decrease over the 4 stitches in the middle of the swatch.
Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 4 stitches at the same time as if to knit through the back loop. This is easier when using very sharp needles. I also find it helps to pull the fabric below the 4 stitches down a bit, to open up the loops that are on the needle.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
…and pull it through the stitches you inserted the right-hand needle in.
Next, we’re going to work the “front” part of the decrease. Insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 4 stitches at the same time as if to knit. Again, this is easier when using very sharp needles or pulling the fabric down a bit, to open up the loops that are on the needle.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
…and pull it through the stitches you inserted the right-hand needle in.
To finish the k4tog bf decrease, slip the original stitches off the left-hand needle.

The below picture shows how it looks after 2 more decrease rows have been worked over the center 4 stitches in the swatch. Below it, you can find another picture showing the wrong side of the swatch.

The result of working the k4tog bf decrease - from the RS — The result of working the k4tog bf decrease – from the RS

The result of working the k4tog bf decrease - from the WS — The result of working the k4tog bf decrease – from the WS

tutorial – the k4tog bf decrease Read More »

tutorial – the sl2-k2tog-p2sso left-leaning centered decrease

The sl2-k2tog-p2sso left-leaning centered decrease - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In knitting, as in life, many paths can lead to the same beautiful result. When it comes to shaping your fabric with decreases, there are often several ways to achieve a similar visual effect, each with its own subtle character. The sl2-k2tog-p2sso decrease (short for slip 2, knit 2 together, pass 2 slipped stitches over) is one of those methods that produces what’s called a centered triple decrease. Despite the “centered” label, this particular decrease leans just a touch to the left. The result is a tidy, symmetrical-looking line that subtly favors one side.

In this tutorial, we’ll walk step-by-step through how to work the sl2-k2tog-p2sso decrease. And if you find yourself preferring a version that leans ever so slightly to the right; don’t worry! A companion tutorial for that variation will be coming soon. Ready? Let’s pick up our needles and see how this decrease works its magic.

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a sl2-k2tog-p2sso step by step

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease. In this case, I want to work the triple decrease 7 stitches in after the garter stitch edge.
Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 2 stitches at the same time as if to knit.
Pass these stitches to the right-hand needle.
This step changes the orientation of the stitches, influencing how they appear when the decrease has been finished.
Over the next 2 stitches, we will be working a k2tog decrease. To do so, we first insert the right-hand needle into the 2 stitches as if to knit.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
…and pull it through the stitches.
To finish the k2tog decrease, slip the original stitches off the left-hand needle.
To finish the triple decrease, we will be passing the initially slipped stitches over the stitch that was left after working the k2tog. First, insert the left-hand needle into those 2 stitches….
…. then pass them over the other stitch.

The result

The below pictures show how it looks after 2 more decrease rows have been worked. First from the right side, then from the wrong side of the fabric. Please note that in order to have any subsequent decreases line up correctly, any new decrease has to be started 1 stitch before the stitch on top of the resulting one from the previous decrease. And that’s all there is to it!

The sl2-k2tog-p2sso left-leaning centered decrease from the RS

The sl2-k2tog-p2sso left-leaning centered decrease from the WS

tutorial – the sl2-k2tog-p2sso left-leaning centered decrease Read More »

stitch pattern – cable on garter stitch

Cable on garter stitch - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

This is a lovely cable on a background of garter stitch, a good way to spruce up a project in garter stitch. Use it solo as pictured here, or make multiple cables. In this stitch pattern, 3/3 RC, and 3/3 LC cables are used to create the fishtail-effect. This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 17 + 3 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, no edge stitches were added.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

You will also need a cable needle in a similar or slightly smaller size as your knitting needles. Unless, of course, you’re going to work the cables without a cable needle.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
3/3 LC (3/3 left-cross cable): Slip next 3 stitches to cable needle and place at front of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
3/3 RC (3/3 right-cross cable): Slip next 3 stitches to cable needle and place at back of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.

Cable on garter stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): K3, *k6, p2, k9*; rep *–* to end. (20 sts)
Row 2 (wrong side): *K6, p3, k2, p3*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, k3.
Rows 3-6: Rep rows 1-2 twice more.
Row 7: K3, *3/3 RC, p2, 3/3 LC, k3*; rep *-* to end.
Row 8: *K6, p3, k2, p3*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, k3.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern.

stitch pattern – cable on garter stitch Read More »

tutorial – the k4tog right-leaning triple decrease

The k4tog right-leaning decrease - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

On this website, I’ve already posted a lot of tutorials about different types of decreases. Well, I encountered a stitch pattern that uses various triple decreases. In other words: Decreases in which 4 stitches are reduced to a single remaining stitch. In this tutorial, I will show you the “k4tog” right-leaning triple decrease. The abbreviation stands for “knit 4 stitches together”. It’s a common way to reduce the number of stitches in your project and make it narrower. Together with its matching left-leaning decreases, it can be found in lace patterning.

Below you can find how to work this decrease, so get your materials and follow along!

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a k4tog step by step

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease. In this case, I want to work the triple decrease 5 stitches in after the garter stitch edge.
Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 4 stitches at the same time as if to knit. This is easier when using very sharp needles. I also find it helps to pull the fabric below the 4 stitches down a bit, as pictured here, to open up the loops that are on the needle.
In this step, I’ve inserted the right-hand needle into the 4 stitches.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
…and pull it through the stitches you inserted the right-hand needle in.
To finish the k4tog decrease, slip the original stitches off the left-hand needle.

The below picture shows how it looks after 1 more decrease row has been worked. The second decrease was started 2 stitches in from the garter stitch edge. As you can see, another one wasn’t possible without dipping into the edge stitches if I wanted to stay in the decrease line you see forming. And that’s all there is to it!

The k4tog right-leaning decrease - the result

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stitch pattern – working the (k tbl, yo, skp, k tbl) wrapped twice stitch

Working the (k tbl, yo, skp, k tbl) wrapped twice stitch - a stitch pattern by La Visch Designs

In one of my new patterns, I used this stitch pattern from the Japanese knitting stitch bible. It consists of (k tbl, p2) rib, with strategically place wrapped stitches to create a lovely smocking effect, It was a bit of a struggle to determine exactly how to execute this stitch. So, I thought to make it into a step-by-step post. As the description says, you basically wrap your working yarn around the group of stitches described. Below, I’ll show you how to work the (k tbl, yo, skp, k tbl) wrapped twice stitch.

Let’s get started!

Materials used

RMR Yarn Co. Zihuatanejo DK in Casi Casi

Yarn: RMR Yarn Co. Zihuatanejo DK, a wonderful vibrant 100% Merino yarn, here in the color Casi Casi.

Knitting needles: Some Zing knitting needles, and yes I know I’m using a ridiculously small size for a DK weight yarn; I’m a VERY loose knitter…

I’m also using a cable needle in the same size as my main needles.

Working the (k tbl, yo, skp, k tbl) wrapped twice stitch step by step

To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the wrapped stitch.
First, insert the cable needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle, and knit it through the back loop.
Next, wrap the working yarn around the cable needle, to form the yarn over.
Now work a skp decrease over the next 2 stitches on the left-hand needle, again using the cable needle as your right-hand needle.
In this picture, you can see how it looks after the decrease has been worked.
Next, insert the cable needle into the stitch on the left-hand needle, and knit it through the back loop.
With this, we have worked the group of stitches to be wrapped.
Now take your working yarn, and wrap it around the group of stitches on the cable needle in a counter-clockwise motion.
In other words, move the yarn to the front, from left to right, and then onwards around the back from right to left until it’s in its starting position.
Repeat step 6 once again for the second wrap.
To finish the stitch, slip each of the 4 stitches on the cable needle purl-wise to the right-hand knitting needle. At this point, you can tighten the wrapped yarn a bit if the wrap is a bit loose.

The result

In the picture below, you can see the (k tbl, yo, skp, k tbl) wrapped twice stitch, directly after I’ve slipped all the stitches from the cable needle to the right-hand needle. You can also see some of the other wrapped stitches I’ve already worked in this piece of knitting.

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