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tutorial – making a spliced join

Making a spliced join - by La Visch Designs

When making a bigger project, chances are that you’ll have to join a new ball of yarn. There are multiple ways to approach this, also depending on the type of yarn. For a non-super wash wool, for example, I’ll probably go for a felted join. In a project with a smooth and slippery yarn like cotton, I would most likely choose a braided join or a Russian join. But what about the spliced join this tutorial is about?

The spliced join is very similar to the Russian join, in the sense that a needle is used to thread the yarn through the end of the new piece of yarn. The difference, however, is that in the spliced join the yarn is not looped back. Because of this, it’s a join that less suited for the very slippery yarns. Yarns that have some texture and “grip” to them, will work splendidly, though. Similar to the Russian join, the spliced join locally produces a thicker thread. However, this does not need to be a problem, because it’s often not very visible.

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the colors 133 Marine Blue, and 142 Tea Rose.

Darning needle: Pictured is a Hiya Hiya Darn It Yarn Needle. Please note that in the tutorial, I used a sharper darning needle, to make threading it through the yarn easier.

The spliced join step by step

In this example, I have used yarn in two different colors to illustrate how this method works.

Thread the yarn end from the first ball through the eye of the needle.
Zigzag with the needle through the end of the thread attached to your project, for approximately 5 to 6 centimeters (about 2 inches).
Make sure to do that about 10-15 cm (4 to 6 inches) from the end.
Pull the needle with its attached yarn through the other thread.
After that, you can remove the yarn from the needle.
Next, thread the yarn from the other tail through the eye of the needle.
Now zigzag back with the needle through the second thread for about 5 to 6 centimeters (about 2 inches).
Start at the point where the other “doubled up yarn section” ended.
Pull the yarn through, and gently tug on both ends to pull the yarn smooth.
The result of the spliced join!

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making a braided join

Earlier, in my blog about the Russian join, I’ve already shown you how my favorite way to attach a new ball of yarn works. But how do you join new yarn just as invisible and strong when you do not have a needle with you?

In that situation, I like to use the braided method where the old and new yarn are braided together. Just as with the Russian method this makes a very strong join, which remains in place even with slick yarns like satin and mercerized cotton. Also, after you have complete your project no ends are to be woven in, as these are already woven in when making the join.

A prerequisite for this method is that your yarn consists of at least two plies. Why is this important, you will see later in this blog. The braided join makes for a locally thicker thread, but this does not need to be a problem, because it is often not very visible.

The braided join step by step

In this example I have used two different colors of yarn to show you exactly how to work this type of join.

1. The two threads to join, the pink yarn comes from the project, the yellow-green is the new ball of yarn.

2. In the “old” yarn loosen the plies over a length of approx. 10 cm (4 inch) and divide into two. Place the new yarn on top of it as shown in the photograph.

3. Hold the threads together at the top. I like to hold them between my forefinger and middle finger, but you can also use a paperclip or something similar.

4. Braid the three pieces of yarn (two of the “old” and one of the new ball of wool) together to join them.

5. Braid until you reach the end of the three threads, you have a braided portion of about 5 up to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 inch).

And now you can continue knitting again. As you see in the picture below, there are three stitches in this sample in which both threads are visible. However, if you join the same color of yarn, the join would be hardly visible in the finished piece.

The back of the work looks like in the photo below. The loose ends I usually leave until after washing and possibly blocking the work. Then it’s just a matter of (carefully!) cutting them off.

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making a Russian join

Whether you knit or crochet, we all have to deal with it: Joining new yarn when you have reached the end of a ball of wool. Of course, you can just change balls when you’re at the end of a row, but what if you work in the round? Or when you only have a limited amount of yarn and you really want to use it all? Just switching and tying a knot is something I never do. I think the risks are simply too great, there isn’t much needed for a knot to become undone and make a hole in my carefully-made piece. No, I much prefer using the Russian join instead.

The Russian join makes a very strong join, which also remains in place with very smooth and slippery yarns like cotton. This method also ensures that after completion of your project there are no ends to weave in. These are, after all already woven in when making the join. The only drawback is that this join locally produces a thicker thread. However, this does not need to be a problem, because it’s often not very visible.

The Russian join step by step

In this example, I have used yarn in two different colors to illustrate how this method works.

1. Thread the yarn end from the first ball through the eye of the needle.

2. Zigzag with the needle back through the thread for approximately 5 to 6 centimeters (about 2 inches), in such a way that your yarn forms a loop. Through this loop, the yarn of the new ball will be threaded later on. It helps to put a finger through the loop while pulling your needle through, to make sure it doesn’t close up on you.

3. Thread the yarn end from the second ball through the eye of the needle.

4. Insert the needle through the loop you created in step 2 above.

5. Now zigzag back with the needle through the second thread for about 5 to 6 centimeters (about 2 inches). Again, it may help to put a finger through the loop while pulling your needle through, to make sure it doesn’t close up on you.

6. Pull gently on both ends to reduce the loops and pull the yarn smooth.

And now, you can just continue knitting! As you see in the picture below, the join in the knitting is (apart of course from the difference in color) barely visible.

The back of the work looks like the photo below. The remaining yarn ends I usually leave until after washing and possibly blocking the workpiece. Then it’s just a matter of (carefully!) cutting them off.

One last tip

As noted, the Russian join gives a place in your work where the yarn is locally thicker. You can avoid this when your yarn is composed of several threads twined together. Cut a small portion of these threads away, then proceed with the join as usual with the locally thinner piece of yarn. In the picture below I have removed one of the totals of three strands.

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