It seems so simple, but contrast in color really is a thing for color work projects: one combination of colors can very much differ from the other. One aspect of color theory in relation to knitting and crochet consists of the contrast of the colors chosen. You can go for big contrasts, or just for subtle differences if you so desire.
But how can you tell what kind of contrast you have with the yarns and colors chosen?
Luckily there is a very handy trick to determine whether a particular color combination has big contrast or only a little. To do so, just take a photo of the yarns together and make the picture black and white!
Take for example the yarns below, quite different from each other, don’t you think?
The black and white version, however, tells a different tale!
It turns out that the light blue version combined with the lilac hardly differ in contrast. This means that when you combine both in a project, the colors won’t really “pop”. An excellent choice, if that is your intention. If on the contrary a lot of contrast is desired, the dark blue combined with the light blue or the lilac would be a far better choice.
Try finding the contrast in color out for yourself!
Want to try some simple color work yourself? Take a look at the Pijl hat (also pictured above) and the Bloem hat!
You probably already know that there are many different ways to bind off. A problem that sometimes occurs is that the bind off too tight. That is when you get the sweaters were no head fits through the neck opening, or those toe-up knitted socks where no foot can be put in and lace shawls that can’t be blocked out to reveal their patterning.
Of course, you can choose to go up in needle size when binding off. However, a too loose bind off is not pretty either… What to do? In these cases, my go-to bind off is the Russian bind-off. This is an elegant way to get a very elastic edge on your piece. This is often important to me because I knit a lot of lace shawls.
In patterns you may encounter the following instructions for this type of bind off: Russian bind-off: K1, * k1, slip stitches from right-hand back to left-hand needle and k2tog tbl. Repeat from * to end.
The Russian bind-off step by step
1. Knit the first stitch.
2. Knit the next stitch
3. Slip the two stitches on your right-hand needle back to your left-hand needle.
4. Knit these two stitches together through the back loop.
5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 until you have reached the end. The result on a piece in stockinette stitch will look like this:
Tip
The Russian bind-off can for example also be used to bind off in rib pattern. You only need to adjust step 2 of the above instructions: Knit the knit stitches that you encounter and purl the purl stitches. That’s all there is to it!
Earlier, in my blog about the Russian join, I’ve already shown you how my favorite way to attach a new ball of yarn works. But how do you join new yarn just as invisible and strong when you do not have a needle with you?
In that situation, I like to use the braided method where the old and new yarn are braided together. Just as with the Russian method this makes a very strong join, which remains in place even with slick yarns like satin and mercerized cotton. Also, after you have complete your project no ends are to be woven in, as these are already woven in when making the join.
A prerequisite for this method is that your yarn consists of at least two plies. Why is this important, you will see later in this blog. The braided join makes for a locally thicker thread, but this does not need to be a problem, because it is often not very visible.
The braided join step by step
In this example I have used two different colors of yarn to show you exactly how to work this type of join.
1. The two threads to join, the pink yarn comes from the project, the yellow-green is the new ball of yarn.
2. In the “old” yarn loosen the plies over a length of approx. 10 cm (4 inch) and divide into two. Place the new yarn on top of it as shown in the photograph.
3. Hold the threads together at the top. I like to hold them between my forefinger and middle finger, but you can also use a paperclip or something similar.
4. Braid the three pieces of yarn (two of the “old” and one of the new ball of wool) together to join them.
5. Braid until you reach the end of the three threads, you have a braided portion of about 5 up to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 inch).
And now you can continue knitting again. As you see in the picture below, there are three stitches in this sample in which both threads are visible. However, if you join the same color of yarn, the join would be hardly visible in the finished piece.
The back of the work looks like in the photo below. The loose ends I usually leave until after washing and possibly blocking the work. Then it’s just a matter of (carefully!) cutting them off.
Whether you knit or crochet, we all have to deal with it: Joining new yarn when you have reached the end of a ball of wool. Of course, you can just change balls when you’re at the end of a row, but what if you work in the round? Or when you only have a limited amount of yarn and you really want to use it all? Just switching and tying a knot is something I never do. I think the risks are simply too great, there isn’t much needed for a knot to become undone and make a hole in my carefully-made piece. No, I much prefer using the Russian join instead.
The Russian join makes a very strong join, which also remains in place with very smooth and slippery yarns like cotton. This method also ensures that after completion of your project there are no ends to weave in. These are, after all already woven in when making the join. The only drawback is that this join locally produces a thicker thread. However, this does not need to be a problem, because it’s often not very visible.
The Russian join step by step
In this example, I have used yarn in two different colors to illustrate how this method works.
1. Thread the yarn end from the first ball through the eye of the needle.
2. Zigzag with the needle back through the thread for approximately 5 to 6 centimeters (about 2 inches), in such a way that your yarn forms a loop. Through this loop, the yarn of the new ball will be threaded later on. It helps to put a finger through the loop while pulling your needle through, to make sure it doesn’t close up on you.
3. Thread the yarn end from the second ball through the eye of the needle.
4. Insert the needle through the loop you created in step 2 above.
5. Now zigzag back with the needle through the second thread for about 5 to 6 centimeters (about 2 inches). Again, it may help to put a finger through the loop while pulling your needle through, to make sure it doesn’t close up on you.
6. Pull gently on both ends to reduce the loops and pull the yarn smooth.
And now, you can just continue knitting! As you see in the picture below, the join in the knitting is (apart of course from the difference in color) barely visible.
The back of the work looks like the photo below. The remaining yarn ends I usually leave until after washing and possibly blocking the workpiece. Then it’s just a matter of (carefully!) cutting them off.
One last tip
As noted, the Russian join gives a place in your work where the yarn is locally thicker. You can avoid this when your yarn is composed of several threads twined together. Cut a small portion of these threads away, then proceed with the join as usual with the locally thinner piece of yarn. In the picture below I have removed one of the totals of three strands.
As you are probably aware, there are lots of different crochet stitches. The basic stitches (in US terminology) being single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc) and the slip stitch (slst). What is perhaps less known is that there is a very special form of crochet, which only uses slip stitches. This is called Slip Stitch Crochet, abbreviated as SSC.
Depending on how the hook exactly is inserted into the stitch, the result can look very similar to knitting. The stitches can look a lot like stockinette stitch, and the fabric is thinner, more flexible and requires less yarn for a similar surface than with traditional crochet.
History
Slip stitch based crochet has been around for a very long time. Many believe it is actually the oldest form of crochet. Fact is that it was and is traditionally much practiced in several European countries, including Norway, Sweden, and Bosnia. This particular type of crochet is therefore also known as “Bosnian crochet”. However, traditional Bosnian crochet is mainly done in the round, where the work at the end of a round is not reversed. In modern versions of slip stitch crochet, the work is reversed, if desired.
How to work SSC?
First, it is important that you use the right type of crochet hook. The kind where the entire head of the needle is cylindrical with a “cut out” to make a hook shape, as with the above-depicted bamboo crochet hook works best. These are also called “in-line” hooks. With the other type, it is more difficult to insert the hook into the correct part of the stitch.
A big difference between regular crochet and SSC is the size of the crochet hook needed. A much larger size than usual is required to ensure that the work does not end up too thick and stiff. Take for example worsted weight yarn where the label recommends needles in size 4-4.5 mm. For that yarn, a crochet hook in a size of approximately 6 mm would be the better size for SSC.
With regular slip stitches, the hook is usually under both loops of the stitch from the previous row. With SSC the hook can also be placed under only one of the loops. The exact orientation and direction determine what the stitch and thus the resulting work will look like. Variables here are front/back loop, inserting from the front to back or from back to front and yarn in front of the work vs yarn at the back of the work.
In the photo below you can see the differences between the six basic stitches in slip stitch crochet:
The basic stitched explained
F (front loop only slip stitch) Hold the yarn behind the work and the hook. Insert the needle from front to back under the front loop of the stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook.
B (back loop only slip stitch) Hold the yarn behind the work and the hook. Insert the needle from front to back under the back loop of the stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook.
iF (inverse front loop only slip stitch) Hold the yarn in front of the work and the hook. Insert the needle from back to front under the front loop of the stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook.
iB (inverse back loop only slip stitch) Hold the yarn in front of the work and the hook. Insert the needle from back to front under the back loop of the stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook.
S (slip stitch) This is a regular slip stitch: Hold the yarn behind the work and the hook. Insert the needle from front to back below both loops of the stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through the loops on the hook.
iS (inverse slip stitch) This is a regular slip stitch worked backward: Hold the yarn behind the work and the hook. Insert the needle from back to front under the two loops of the stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through the loops on the hook.
Examples
In this swatch, I’ve tried out three different stitch patterns. These can all be made with combinations of the basic SSC stitches. The pictures show both sides of the work:
A: Looks very much like garter stitch and the resulting fabric does not curl. This is made by working F every row.
B: Looks very much like stockinette stitch in a sideways orientation, the fabric curls up (just like stockinette stitch). It can be made by alternating rows in F and iB.
C: Rib stitch: because of its high elasticity, this pattern is very suitable for cuffs and hems. This can be made by working every row in B.
And that’s how you work slip stitch crochet! Although I still have to work on my edges, looking at the swatch below…
Many knitting patterns do not consist of rectangles but have a different shape. Think of a hat or a triangular shawl. To make contours in your work, you can make it wider by increasing your number of stitches, and narrower by decreasing them. When knitting lace both increases and decreases are indispensable. Knowing about knitting M1L and M1R increases, therefore, comes in very handy.
Being able to work a wide variety of increases is, therefore, a very important skill for a knitter. In this post, I’m going to show you how to make increases by lifting the horizontal thread between the stitch just knit and the next one. These increases are referred to as “make one left” (abbreviated M1L) and “make one right” (abbreviated M1R).
Left? Right?
Now you may wonder what is meant by “left” and “right” in this context. Depending on how exactly you make the increase, it leans to the left or to the right, relative to the surrounding “normal” stitches. This can be very useful in, for example, a sweater where increases on both sides of the neck opening are needed. In this particular case, it may be visually pleasing to be symmetrical.
Sometimes there is no indication of a direction given in the pattern, usually denoted by plain “M1”. If that is the case, you can choose which version you like best, or easiest to make.
Knitting a M1R increase step by step
In this variation, you increase by lifting the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the back with your left needle, then knit (RS) or purl (WS) into the front of the loop. The resulting extra stitch leans to the right.
1. Lift the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the back with your left needle.
2. Knit (RS) or purl (WS) into the front of the loop.
3. The result of the right-leaning M1R.
Knitting a M1L increase step by step
In this variation, you increase by lifting the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the front with your left needle, then knit (RS) or purl (WS) into the back of the loop. The resulting extra stitch leans to the left.
1. Lift the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the front with your left needle.
2. Knit (RS) or purl (WS) into the back of the loop. The latter may be a bit challenging, but as with everything practice makes perfect.
3. The result of the left-leaning M1L.
And this is how knitting M1L and M1R increases is done!
The M1 increase really is one of my favorites, not in the least because they give an almost invisible result. See for example in the picture below. In this small swatch, there are three increase rows worked every other row, at a distance of 3 stitches from the garter stitch edge.
There are many ways to finish the edges of knitted or crochet projects. To name a few examples: crab stitch, shell stitches, and picot stitches. Fringe is also a lovely way to finish scarfs, shawls, blankets etc. But sometimes it is fun to just give it another twist. The answer to that is quite literally curlicues!
Curlicues not only give a lovely result, but are also very addicting to make.
Here you can find how to make curlicues yourself. For the example, I used a generic worsted weight acrylic yarn and a 5 mm (US H-8) hook. These instructions are written in American English crochet terminology.
This is how to make your curlicues step by step:
1. Make a chain in the length you would like your curlicue to have, plus 3 extra chains. In this example, I’m using 15 chains + 3 chains. Be careful not to make the chains too tight, because that will make it harder to crochet into it later.
2. Make 2 dc in the 4th chain from the hook.
3. Next, make 3 dc in each following chain. For the result, it doesn’t really matter where exactly to place your hook into the chain. Use the way you find easiest or gives the nicest result to you. When you are about halfway the initial chain, you should slowly see the curlicue shape emerge!
And here the curlicue is all done, isn’t it cute?
You can also get nice effects by not making the curlicues not in a solid colored yarn, but in a variegated one. You can also make curlicues with half double crochet (hdc) stitches instead of double crochet (dc) to get a less wide result.
Curlicues are also fun to dress up stuffed animals with, think of the arms of an octopus, or the wild manes of a lion. The sky is the limit!
In earlier posts I already told you about choosing circular needles that fit your style. “Regular” knitting in the round has also been discussed in this post. In this post, I want to talk about knitting in the round using the travelling loop method.
Why is this actually called travelling loop?
That is because with this method you use a circular knitting needle with a cable that is way too long for the project. During knitting, the excess length of the cable forming a loop will move along from the right-hand needle all the way around to the left-hand needle. The loop “travels” as it were!
Knitting with the travelling loop method works very well if two prerequisites are met:
Firstly, it is of importance that you use a circular needle with a cable too large for your project. If your project has a circumference of 50 cm / 20 inches, then circs with a length of 80 cm / 32 inches or longer would work fine with this method. For this same project circs with a length of 60 cm / 16 inches would not work, because the excess length of cable is too small to form the loop.
Secondly, make sure that the diameter of your project is not too small! Socks and sleeves will usually be too small to use this method because the length of the needle itself will be a problem. A knitted in the round cowl or (children) sweater will be fine though most of the time.
Knitting travelling loop step by step
In this example, I’m using 4 mm / 80 cm circular needles as well as a stitch marker to indicate the start and end of rounds.
1. Cast on the number of stitches as required for your project. In this example I have cast on stitches by knitting them on, you can, of course, use your preferred method or the one specified in your pattern.
2. Move the cast on stitches over your needle in such a way that the first CO stitch is on your left-hand needle. You can recognize this stitch by the loose tail. Make sure not to twist your work, if that is what is desired for your pattern.
3. When you are about to close the work in the round, this is how everything looks: The needle with the beginning of your CO (with the yarn tail) at the side of the left-hand needle, the thread leading to your ball of wool coming from the last CO stitch at the back. The right-hand needle has a long length of the unused cable. Now it is also time to place your “end of round” stitch marker on the right-hand needle.
4. Insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle and knit it. There will be tension on the yarn that connects the first and last stitch of the CO. Because of this, it can help to hold the cable close to the needle with your hand.
5. Once you have knitted part of the round, you will see the loop of excess cable travelling along.
6. At a certain point when knitting with a travelling loop, it will become possible to move all remaining stitches of the round up to the left-hand needle. Do this, to lessen the tension on the yarn that connects the first and last stitch of the CO.
7. At the end of the round, you will have a large piece of unused cable near the left-hand needle. Pull the circular needle through your work in such a way, that all stitches are ready to knit on the left-hand needle. The right-hand needle has the excess cable. Put the stitch marker over to the other needle and knit. You can tighten up the somewhat loose connection between the end and start of each round. To do so, pull the yarn tight with the second stitch of each new round. Don’t worry about the sloppy looking join, this will fix itself.
8. With each round making sure to pull the yarn tight with every second stitch of the round only. After knitting several rounds, it will look like this. As you can see everything has redistributed nicely and it does not look sloppy anymore!
Stay tuned for the next blog in the series of knitting in the round using circular needles!
Personally, I find knitting in the round with circular needles to be very relaxing. It goes round and round and round; very zen! This is what also made it so nice to work on my Zeeglas Cowl, pictured below. In this post I will tell and show you how knitting in the round works best, using circular needles (or circs for short).
How does knitting in the round using circs work?
Knitting in the round this way works best when using a needle with a cable length that matches the circumference of your project. It is better to use a needle that is a tad too short, than one too large. Knitting is easy to compress a bit, but stretching it out can get ugly. Also, this makes for a less than optimal knitting experience: it is hard to move along stitches that are stretched tight over your needle and cable.
For a cowl regular circular needles with a cable length of 60 cm (24 inches) is usually fine. For knitting socks this way there are even special tiny circs with extra short needles and a cable of a mere 10 cm (4 inches).
In this example, I will use a size 3 mm (US 2) circular needle with a cable length of 30 cm (12 inches). This specific needle has tips that are a tad shorter than regular circs. This needle by Addi is my favorite to knit baby hats from sock wool.
Knitting in the round with circular needles step by step
1. Cast on the number of stitches as required for your project plus 1. I will explain this extra stitch later on in this how-to. In this example I have cast on stitches by knitting them on. You can, of course, use your preferred method or the one specified in your pattern. In the picture below the strand of yarn at the bottom of the picture is where the CO was started. The strand at the top is the one that goes to the ball of yarn.
2. In patterns where the work has to be closed in the round, there often is a note to be careful not the twist the work. An exception to this is when you actually want a twist in the work. Take for example as with a Moebius type cowl. In the picture above in the spot indicated with the arrow, you can see there is a twist. I have to untwist it before proceeding!
3. Hold the needles in such a way that the last CO stitch is on your right-hand needle. You can recognize this stitch by the attached ball of yarn.
4. Slip this last CO stitch from your right-hand needle to the left-hand needle, then knit the first 2 stitches together. With this, you close the work in the round and at the same time, prevent a “gap” at the join. Also, the extra stitch cast on has been decreased away.
5. Place a stitch marker to indicate the start and end of the round and enjoy the knitting!
In another post on the topic of knitting in the round with circular needles, I also cover traveling loop. Posts on magic loop knitting and “two at a time” (“TAAT” for short) magic loop knitting will be done sometime in the future!
You have perhaps already read in this blog post, that extreme knitting really has my attention lately. In that blog post I have been shown you how I made extreme knitting needles from broom sticks. Today I am going to show you how I prepared wool roving to be able to knit with it.
At first I just started knitting with the roving as it came. However, soon it became clear that this particular piece of knitting was very thick and stiff. Perhaps suitable for a thick rug, but not for the scarf I envisioned. In other words: my new extreme broomstick needles were too small for this “yarn”!
I wasn’t planning on making even bigger knitting needles, so something had to be done with the wool itself to make it suitable for the needles I had available. Also, the thought came to me that untreated wool roving knit into a scarf, would probably shed like a Wookiee in Springtime. Not a good look when wearing dark colored clothes.
Below the steps to prepare my roving for extreme knitting:
1. Splitting the roving length-wise. This way I not only halved the thickness, but also doubled the total length available for my scarf!
2. The result: Two large balls of roving. Because the roving is now significantly thinner, it also falls apart more easily when handled. This combined with the shedding problem led me to the idea to full/felt the wool.
3. To make sure the wool wouldn’t felt together in one big lump, I draped it on a large sheet like this:
4. Then I rolled up the sheet, making sure that the roving did not touch itself anywhere. When rolled up like a big sausage I used some waste yarn to make sure it stayed that way. After this the whole package was put in the washing machine on a short 30 minute / 30 degrees Celsius program.
5. Here my roving yarn is out of the washing machine and hanging to dry. It’s nicely felted as you can see!
6. And there we have it: A large ball of felted roving, ready for some extreme knitting.
Go to this page to see what I made out of this extreme yarn!
