tutorial Archives - La Visch Designs

tutorial – working the stretchy yo bind-off for 1×1 rib

Working the stretchy YO bind-off for 1x1 rib - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

This bind-off is very similar to regular “binding of in pattern”, take a look at the tutorial for 1×1 rib that shows you the principal of it. The main difference with the stretchy yo bind-off, is that it adds a yarn over for every purl stitch of the ribbing. As such, it’s less stretchy than a bind-off that includes a yo after every stitch, but much more stretchy than a regular ribbing bind-off that doesn’t include one. I really like to use this one for ribbing on sleeve cuffs, the hems of sweaters etc. It really doesn’t matter if your piece is in regular 1×1 rib, are a twisted one using (k tbl, p1). It doesn’t flare out as much as, for example, the Russian bind-off does.

Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The stretchy yo bind-off for 1×1 rib step by step

In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:
K1, *yo, p1, then grab the 2nd and 3rd sts, and pass them both over the st just purled, k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into second stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the stitch just knit*; rep *–* to end, yo, p1, then grab the 2nd and 3rd sts, and pass them both over the st just purled.
Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in [k1 tbl, p1] rib.
Knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
Next, work a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle.
Next is working a purl stitch.
Depending on your knitting style, it may help to secure the yo of the previous step with your right index finger while you work the purl stitch.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second and third stitches on the right-hand needle….
… and pass them over the purl stitch.
Knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle….
…. then pass it over the stitch just knit.
Continue working steps 3-8, ending with a repeat of steps 3-6 for the last purl stitch in the rib (assuming you started with an even number of stitches!).
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.

The result

Do you see how lovely this bind-off follows the shape of the ribbing?

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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tutorial – knitting the yarn over bind-off (version 2)

Knitting the YO bind-off (version 2) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In this tutorial I show you how to work a second version of the yarn over bind-off for stockinette. Remember, the thing that all yarn over bind-off have in common, is that they all use an extra yo somewhere in the bind-off sequence to give the edge some extra stretch. Where they differ, is how that yo is treated within the bind-off repeat. The one I’m showing in this tutorial is one I really like, because it gives decent stretch without a lot of flare at the edge. Ok, grab your things!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The yarn over bind-off step by step

In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:

*K1, yo, k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into the first and second stitches on the right-hand needle, pass them over the third stitch*; repeat *-* to end.

Please note, that when I mentioned “first” or “second”, I mean the stitch that was knit first or second, not the location relative to the tip of the right-hand needle. Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off, and knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in stockinette stitch.
Next, work a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the first and second stitches on the right-hand needle, and pass them over the third (last knit) one.
Continue working steps 1-4 to the end.
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.

As you can see in the last picture above, this bind-off has barely any flare to it. When seen from the wrong side, the result looks like this:

The result from the WS of knitting the yarn over bind-off - version 2

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tutorial – knitting the yarn over bind-off (version 1)

Knitting the YO bind-off (version 1) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

The thing that all yarn over bind-off have in common, is that they all use an extra yo somewhere in the bind-off sequence to give the edge some extra stretch. Where they differ, is how that yo is treated within the bind-off repeat. The one I’m showing in this tutorial is not really the one I prefer, because it has significant flare at the edge. That said, it’s a good one to know. In a couple of weeks, I’ll share a different yarn over bind-off for stockinette with you. Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The yarn over bind-off step by step

In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:

K1, *k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the second stitch, yo, grab the first st, and pass it over the yo*; repeat *-* to end.

Please note, that when I mentioned “first” or “second”, I mean the stitch that was knit first or second, not the location relative to the tip of the right-hand needle. Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off, and knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in stockinette stitch.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle, and pass this stitch over the second one.
Next, work a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle, and pass it over the yarn over.
Continue working steps 2-5 for every stitch you encounter.
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.

As you can see in the last picture above, this bind-off has quite some flare to it. Reduce the amount of flare by repeating steps 1-5 instead of 2-5. However, this would also reduce the stretchiness. When seen from the wrong side, the result looks like this:

The result from the WS of knitting the yarn over bind-off - version 1

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tutorial – the sl3-k1-p3sso right-leaning centered decrease

The sl3-k1-p3sso right-leaning centered decrease - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Recently, I shared with you how to work the slightly left-leaning sl2-k2tog-p2sso decrease. Of course, there is also a centered triple decrease that’s slightly right-leaning: The sl3-k1-p3sso decrease! This abbreviation is short for slip 3, knit 1, pass 3 slipped stitches over. The result is a tidy, symmetrical-looking line that subtly favors one side. In this tutorial, we’ll walk step-by-step through how to work the sl3-k1-p3sso decrease. Let’s pick up our needles and see how to work this decrease!

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a sl3-k1-p3sso step by step

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease. In this case, I want to work the triple decrease 5 stitches in after the garter stitch edge.
Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 3 stitches at the same time as if to knit.
Pass these stitches to the right-hand needle.
This step changes the orientation of the stitches, influencing how they appear when the decrease has been finished.
Now knit the next stitch.
To finish the triple decrease, we will be passing the initially slipped stitches over the knit stitch. First, insert the left-hand needle into those 3 stitches….
…. then pass them over the other stitch.

The result

The below pictures show how it looks after 2 more decrease rows have been worked. First from the right side, then from the wrong side of the fabric. Please note that in order to have any subsequent decreases line up correctly, any new decrease has to be started 2 stitches before the stitch on top of the resulting one from the previous decrease. And that’s all there is to it!

Multiple sl3-k1-p3sso decreases as seen from the RS

Multiple sl3-k1-p3sso decreases as seen from the WS

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tutorial – the k4tog bf decrease

The k4tog bf decrease - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

As part of this stitch pattern that I encountered, there was also this “k4tog bf” decrease. The abbreviation stands for “knit 4 stitches together back front”. It’s a new to me way to reduce the number of stitches from 4 to 2 stitches. Of course, you could also just combine a k2tog and your choice of a left-leaning decrease, take for example the skp decrease. However, the k4tog bf decrease looks quite different, so it really has its place. And that stitch pattern I encountered it in? I will post it soon!

Below you can find how to work this decrease, so get your materials and follow along!

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a k4tog bf step by step

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease. In this case, I want to work the decrease over the 4 stitches in the middle of the swatch.
Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 4 stitches at the same time as if to knit through the back loop. This is easier when using very sharp needles. I also find it helps to pull the fabric below the 4 stitches down a bit, to open up the loops that are on the needle.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
…and pull it through the stitches you inserted the right-hand needle in.
Next, we’re going to work the “front” part of the decrease. Insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 4 stitches at the same time as if to knit. Again, this is easier when using very sharp needles or pulling the fabric down a bit, to open up the loops that are on the needle.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
…and pull it through the stitches you inserted the right-hand needle in.
To finish the k4tog bf decrease, slip the original stitches off the left-hand needle.

The below picture shows how it looks after 2 more decrease rows have been worked over the center 4 stitches in the swatch. Below it, you can find another picture showing the wrong side of the swatch.

The result of working the k4tog bf decrease - from the RS — The result of working the k4tog bf decrease – from the RS

The result of working the k4tog bf decrease - from the WS — The result of working the k4tog bf decrease – from the WS

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tutorial – the sl2-k2tog-p2sso left-leaning centered decrease

The sl2-k2tog-p2sso left-leaning centered decrease - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In knitting, as in life, many paths can lead to the same beautiful result. When it comes to shaping your fabric with decreases, there are often several ways to achieve a similar visual effect, each with its own subtle character. The sl2-k2tog-p2sso decrease (short for slip 2, knit 2 together, pass 2 slipped stitches over) is one of those methods that produces what’s called a centered triple decrease. Despite the “centered” label, this particular decrease leans just a touch to the left. The result is a tidy, symmetrical-looking line that subtly favors one side.

In this tutorial, we’ll walk step-by-step through how to work the sl2-k2tog-p2sso decrease. And if you find yourself preferring a version that leans ever so slightly to the right; don’t worry! A companion tutorial for that variation will be coming soon. Ready? Let’s pick up our needles and see how this decrease works its magic.

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a sl2-k2tog-p2sso step by step

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease. In this case, I want to work the triple decrease 7 stitches in after the garter stitch edge.
Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 2 stitches at the same time as if to knit.
Pass these stitches to the right-hand needle.
This step changes the orientation of the stitches, influencing how they appear when the decrease has been finished.
Over the next 2 stitches, we will be working a k2tog decrease. To do so, we first insert the right-hand needle into the 2 stitches as if to knit.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
…and pull it through the stitches.
To finish the k2tog decrease, slip the original stitches off the left-hand needle.
To finish the triple decrease, we will be passing the initially slipped stitches over the stitch that was left after working the k2tog. First, insert the left-hand needle into those 2 stitches….
…. then pass them over the other stitch.

The result

The below pictures show how it looks after 2 more decrease rows have been worked. First from the right side, then from the wrong side of the fabric. Please note that in order to have any subsequent decreases line up correctly, any new decrease has to be started 1 stitch before the stitch on top of the resulting one from the previous decrease. And that’s all there is to it!

The sl2-k2tog-p2sso left-leaning centered decrease from the RS

The sl2-k2tog-p2sso left-leaning centered decrease from the WS

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tutorial – the k4tog right-leaning triple decrease

The k4tog right-leaning decrease - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

On this website, I’ve already posted a lot of tutorials about different types of decreases. Well, I encountered a stitch pattern that uses various triple decreases. In other words: Decreases in which 4 stitches are reduced to a single remaining stitch. In this tutorial, I will show you the “k4tog” right-leaning triple decrease. The abbreviation stands for “knit 4 stitches together”. It’s a common way to reduce the number of stitches in your project and make it narrower. Together with its matching left-leaning decreases, it can be found in lace patterning.

Below you can find how to work this decrease, so get your materials and follow along!

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a k4tog step by step

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease. In this case, I want to work the triple decrease 5 stitches in after the garter stitch edge.
Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 4 stitches at the same time as if to knit. This is easier when using very sharp needles. I also find it helps to pull the fabric below the 4 stitches down a bit, as pictured here, to open up the loops that are on the needle.
In this step, I’ve inserted the right-hand needle into the 4 stitches.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
…and pull it through the stitches you inserted the right-hand needle in.
To finish the k4tog decrease, slip the original stitches off the left-hand needle.

The below picture shows how it looks after 1 more decrease row has been worked. The second decrease was started 2 stitches in from the garter stitch edge. As you can see, another one wasn’t possible without dipping into the edge stitches if I wanted to stay in the decrease line you see forming. And that’s all there is to it!

The k4tog right-leaning decrease - the result

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tutorial – working the stretchy yo bind-off for 2×2 rib

Working the stretchy YO bind-off for 2x2 rib - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

This bind-off is very similar to regular “binding of in pattern”. I don’t have a tutorial about one showing this for 2×2 rib, but I do have one for 1×1 rib that shows you the principal of it. The main difference with the stretchy yo bind-off, is that it adds a yarn over for every purl stitch of the ribbing. As such, it’s less stretchy than a bind-off that includes a yo after every stitch, but much more stretchy than a regular ribbing bind-off that doesn’t include one. I really like to use this one for toe-up socks, and ribbing on sleeve cuffs. It doesn’t flare out as much as, for example, the Russian bind-off does.

Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine Blue

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The stretchy yo bind-off for 2×2 rib step by step

In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:
K2, insert tip of the left-hand needle into first stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the second stitch, (yo, p1, then grab the 2nd and 3rd sts, and pass them both over the st just purled) twice, *(k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into first stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the second stitch) twice, (yo, p1, then grab the 2nd and 3rd sts, and pass them both over the st just purled) twice*; repeat *-* to end.
Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in 2×2 rib.
Knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle….
…., and pass this second stitch over the first one.
You have now bound-off a stitch!
Next, work a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle.
Next is working a purl stitch.
Depending on your knitting style, it may help to secure the yo of the previous step with your right index finger while you work the purl stitch.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second and third stitches on the right-hand needle….
… and pass them over the purl stitch.
Repeat steps 6-9 for the second purl stitch to be bound off for the ribbing.
Continue working steps 3-5 for every knit stitch you encounter, and steps 6-9 for every purl stitch.
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.

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tutorial – working shadow wrap short rows on the WS

Working shadow wrap short rows on the WS - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Short rows are a very handy way to create shaping in knitted fabric. Use it, for example, to raise the back of the neck in sweaters, or turn the heel in socks. As a matter of fact, I first encountered these shadow wrap short rows in this sock project I was knitting. I really like them, because just like German short rows, you end up with some sort of “double stitch” that is pretty invisible in the resulting fabric. The way to go about making that double stitch is quite different, though.

Grab your materials and let’s get started! As with all short rows, they can be worked on both right side and wrong side rows. In this tutorial, I’ll focus on the working the shadow wrap short rows on the wrong side of the fabric. For the one about the right side, click here.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting. Brand unknown.

Working shadow wrap short rows on the WS step by step

Work as instructed by your pattern on the wrong side of the fabric, until the point where you are to turn for the short row.
Before you turn, work a modified Left-Leaning Lifted Increase (LLIP) into the next stitch on your left-hand needle.
To do so, first slip the next stitch from the left-hand to the right-hand needle.
Next, insert your left-hand needle from bottom to top into the horizontal purl bump directly below the stitch slipped to the right-hand needle, and place it on the left-hand needle.
This is where the modification comes in, with a regular LLIP, you would insert the needle into the second horizontal purl bump below the stitch slipped to the right-hand needle.
Now purl into the loop you just placed on the left-hand needle.
Do you see in the picture below, of the result of this step how it sits next to its “shadow stitch”?
Slip the original stitch together with its “shadow” back to the left-hand needle.
Next, turn your work and knit back to where your pattern says.
When you work back to the shadow wrap on the wrong side, just purl the 2 shadow stitches together as if they are a single stitch, to close the short row without any gaps in your fabric.
And this is how to work shadow wrap short rows on the WS!

The result

Please note that in the below picture, I’ve worked 2 sets of shadow wrap short rows on the wrong side, as well as 2 on the right side. The tutorial on how to work shadow wrap short rows on the RS can be found here.

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tutorial – working the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 st increase

Working the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 st increase - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In one of my new shawl patterns, I used the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 stitch or M5 increase. So, time for a new tutorial! With this increase, 1 stitch is increased to 5 by working [k1, p1] twice in the same loop, followed by another k1. That said, if you’d like to increase 7 or even 9 stitches instead of 5, just work more repeats of [k1, p1] into the original stitch.

Let’s get our materials and get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) increase step by step

To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the increase.
First, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.
Next, wrap the yarn around the needle …
… and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Next, move the yarn to the front of the work.
Insert the needle into the stitch as if to purl…
….wrap the yarn around the needle.
.. and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Next, move the yarn back to the back of the work.
Repeat steps 2 to 9 once more, followed by steps 2 to 4 once more to create all the extra stitches needed.
After this, you can slide the original stitch off the left-hand needle to conclude the increase.

The result

In the picture below, I’ve also worked a wrong-side row after the row with the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 stitch increase. Please also keep in mind that here, I made the increase in a stockinette fabric. Usually, It would be used somewhere in lace patterning.

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