autumn leaves shawl – free pattern

Autumn Leaves - a design by La Visch Designs

The Autumn Leaves Shawl features a simple stockinette body knit sideways in a shallow triangle shape. The leafy border is knitted on at the same time. Made in a loose gauge, Autumn Leaves is an airy layering piece, just enough for when there’s a chill in the air.

This design works great with that special skein of fingering weight yarn. The Autumn Leaves Shawl can, however, be made in any size, using any weight of yarn. Just knit until you have reached half of your yarn or half the size you want the shawl or shawlette to be. Since the body is in plain stockinette this pattern is also very suited to use with hand dyed yarns. Instructions for the lace border are both written and charted.


360 m (393 yds) / 100 g Knitcola Alpaca Hand-dyed Yarn [100 % alpaca] in light blue.
Substitute any fingering weight yarn in a solid or semi-solid color for a similar result.

Recommended needles
Size 4.5 mm (US 7), 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl.


  • Yarn needle
  • 2 stitch markers


Gauge is not critical in this design. For the sample shawl measured after blocking: 14 sts / 22 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette.

Size and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 140 cm (55 inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 32 cm (12 ½ inches), measured after blocking.
The sample shawl has a total of 16 leaves.

This shawl can easily be made larger by using heavier yarn and/or working more repeats. This will, of course, increase the amount of yarn needed.

Skills required

This pattern features lace knitted on both right and wrong side rows. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, p2tog, kfb, m1, skp, yo, and sl2-k-p2sso. Therefore, this pattern is suitable for the intermediate or lace knitter.


BO – bind off
CO – cast on
k – knit
k2tog – knit two together
kfb – knit in the front and in the back of the stitch
m1 – increase by lifting the loop between the stitch just knit and the next one from the front with your left needle, then knit into the back of the loop
p – purl
p2tog – purl two together
PM – place marker
rep – repeat
RM – remove marker
RS/WS – right side/wrong side
skp – slip, knit, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
sl2-k1-p2sso – slip two together, knit one, pass two stitches over (2 stitches decreased)
sl1 wyif – slip 1 stitch as if to purl, with yarn in front
SM – slip marker
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over

Pattern notes

  • Work the Autumn Leaves shawl sideways from tip to tip, with increases and then decreases worked on one side every other row. The lace border is worked simultaneously.
  • The pattern has a garter stitch border of 4 stitches on the upper edge, with a decorative slipped stitch edge finishing.
  • Always slip markers as you come to them.
  • Instead of the skp decrease ssk can be used if desired.

Stitch guide

  • Slipped stitch edge: Slip the last stitch on each WS row as if to purl, with yarn in front.
  • Wrap and Turn (w&t): Bring your yarn to the front between the needles, slip the next stitch purl-wise, bring your yarn between the needles to the back again, slip the stitch back to the left needle, and turn work.


CO 2 sts.


Row 1 (RS): Kfb, k1. (3 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Knit.
Row 3: K1, kfb, k1. (4 sts)
Row 4: K to last st, sl1 wyif.
Row 5: K2, M1, k2. (5 sts)
Row 6: P1, k3, sl1 wyif.
Row 7: K4, M1, k1. (6 sts)
Row 8: P2, k3, sl1 wyif.
Row 9: K4, PM, k1, M1, k1. (7 sts)
Row 10: P3, SM, k3, sl1 wyif.
Row 11: K4, SM, k1, M1, k to end. (8 sts)
Row 12: P to marker, SM, k3, sl1 wyif.

Rows 13-22: Rep row 11-12 five more times (13 sts).

Body – increase section

Both the written out and charted instructions for the leafy border can be found at the bottom of this page.

Row 1 (RS): K4, SM, k1, M1, PM, work row 1 of Leafy border.
Row 2 (WS): Work row 2 of Leafy border, SM, p to marker, SM, k3, sl1 wyif.
Row 3: K4, SM, k to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, work row 3 of Leafy border.
Row 4: Work row 4 of Leafy border, SM, p to marker, SM, k3, sl1 wyif.
Row 5: K4, SM, k to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, work row 5 of Leafy border.
Row 6: Work row 6 of Leafy border, SM, p to marker, SM, k3, sl1 wyif.

Continue in this manner until all rows of the border pattern have been worked, then repeat last 18 rows until 8 leaves or almost half of yarn has been used.

Next: Rep rows 1-16 once again.

Tip: Weigh your project in between pattern repeats to get an idea the amount of yarn needed for each repeat. This way, a better estimate can be made whether another repeat is possible with your available amount of yarn. 

Easing the border around the center point

Row 17: K4, SM, k to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, work row 17 of Leafy border.
Row 18: Work row 18 of Leafy border, RM, w&t.
Row 19: PM, work row 1 of Leafy border.
Row 20: Work row 2 of Leafy border, SM, pick up and purl wrap together with corresponding st, p to marker, SM, k3, sl1 wyif.

Body – decrease section

Row 1 (RS): K4, SM, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, SM, work row 3 of Leafy border.
Row 2 (WS): Work row 4 of Leafy border, SM, p to marker, SM, k3, sl1 wyif.
Row 3: K4, SM, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, SM, work row 5 of Leafy border.
Row 4: Work row 6 of Leafy border, SM, p to marker, SM, k3, sl1 wyif.

Continue in this manner until the same number of leaves as on the increase section have been completed (14 sts ).

Next row (RS): K4, SM, k1, k2tog, k to end, removing marker.
Next row (WS): P to marker, SM, k3, sl1 wyif.
Rep these last 2 rows 9 more times, removing marker after final rep (4 sts).

Next row: K1, k2tog, k1 (3 sts).
Next row: K2, sl1 wyif.
Next row: K1, k2tog (2 sts).
Next row: K1, sl1 wyif.
Next row: K2tog and fasten off.


Finally, weave in ends and block your Autumn Leaves Shawl to shape.

Leafy border lace

Chart with Autumn Leaves pattern by La Visch Designs

Leafy border
Row 1 (RS): K5, yo, k1, yo, k2.
Row 2 (WS): P6, kfb, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 3: K4, p1, k2, yo, k1, yo, k3.
Row 4: P8, kfb, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 5: K4, p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k4.
Row 6: P10, kfb, k2, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 7: K4, p3, k4, yo, k1, yo, k5.
Row 8: P12, kfb, k3, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 9: K4, p4, skp, k7, k2tog, k1.
Row 10: P10, kfb, k4, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 11: K4, p5, skp, k5, k2tog, k1.
Row 12: P8, kfb, k2, p1, k2, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 13: K4, p1, k1, p4, skp, k3, k2tog, k1.
Row 14: P6, kfb, k3, p1, k2, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 15: K4, p1, k1, p5, skp, k1, k2tog, k1.
Row 16: P4, kfb, k4, p1, k2, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 17: K4, p1, k1, p6, sl2-k1-p2sso, k1.
Row 18: P2tog, BO 5 sts, p3, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.

handspun delight

Handspun Delight shawl.

The Handspun Delight shawl showcases hand spun yarn. It has been designed to be knit with the typical thick-and-thin yarn which most new spinners produce with their first efforts. This design works well with hand-dyed, variegated yarns, or with a combination of yarn odds and ends. Because of this it is also great for some stash busting.

The shawl consists of a stockinette body and a border based on the Old Shale lace pattern. Charts and full written instructions are given.

This pattern gives instructions for shawls in three sizes: S (M, L) with 5 (7, 9) Old Shale lace fans. On all three versions it is possible to extend the lace edging.
Bulky weight yarn in size S will give a shawlette sized piece similar to the pink sample. Worsted weight yarn in size L and the extended lace border gives a very generous shawl as in the blue-green sample. Working the largest size and border with fingering weight yarn would give a decent shawlette.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

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Skills required

This pattern uses various increases and decreases: k2tog, k2tog tbl, skp, kfb, M1, pfb and yo. Because of this it is suitable for the intermediate knitter, or the more adventurous beginning lace knitter.

Pattern details

  • Top-down
  • Written for any gauge
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)


The pattern for the Handspun Delight shawl works well with a large variety of yarn weights. Here are some guidelines for the required amount:

Small size: 200 – 250 m (218 – 273 yards) of aran to bulky weight yarn.
Medium size: 250 – 350 m (273 – 383 yards) of worsted to bulky weight yarn.
Large size: 350 – 600 m (383 – 656 yards) of fingering to worsted weight yarn.

Yardage estimates are variable due to differences in yarn thickness, needles chosen, preferred gauge and depth of border.

  • Needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
  • Yarn needle
  • 6 (8, 10) stitch markers

roll it up & go crochet hook case – free pattern

Roll it up & go crochet hook case

When I learned to crochet I soon found the need to store my rapidly increasing stash of crochet hooks. But where? Make it myself of course! Since I have hooks from very thin to very thick I wanted to have one in which I can easily adjust the size of the pockets. The pattern for this Roll it Up & Go crochet hook case is written more as a template instead of exact instructions.

This pattern is written in American English crochet terminology.


Techniques used consist of ch, sc and slst. Because of this, the pattern is suitable for the beginner.


  • Less than 1 skein of yarn of choice
  • Even less in yarn of the same weight in a contrasting color
  • Crochet hook size 3.5 mm (US # E)
  • Crochet hook size 4 mm (US # G).

Finished Size

Any size you want it to be!


Depends on the size desired and yarn used.


The main body of this hook case consists of a rectangle shape worked in Sc in the front loops only to get a more thin and flexible fabric.

Instructions for the roll it up & go crochet hook case

The body of the hook case

Ch a length equal to the length of the longest hook you want to keep in the case + 10 cm (4 inch) for the pockets. Let’s call that amount of chains “A”. In my case A was equal to 51 sts. Make sure your A is an uneven number. Ch 1, turn.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. Work the sc in the single bump on the back of the chain for a finishing that will look the same on both ends of the rectangle.

Row 2: Sc (in front loops only!) in each sc for (A minus 3) / 2 sts, 1 sc in both loops of st, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in both loops of st, sc in front loops only in each sc across, ch 1, turn

Repeat row 2 until you have twice the number of crochet hooks you want to keep in the case + 12. It is however always wise to make it bigger than you think you’ll possibly be needing. Fasten off.

Create the pocket

First, sc along one of the sides of the rectangle (perpendicular to the rows) with a contrasting color. I used orange. Then fasten off.

Next, fold up the side you just worked on perpendicular to the rows. Doing this will make a pocket, make sure the pocket is approx. 5 cm (2 inch). Fasten onto the crease with a slip stitch. Sc up the side of the pocket, making sure to crochet through both the upper and lower row. When you reach the end of the pocket, continue to sc up the side of the case, along the upper edge and down the other side. Then crochet both rows together again.
Fasten off.

Holding the hooks in place

In the middle of the rectangle, the [ 1 sc in both loops of stitch, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 c in both loops of stitch] part created a line with “holes” in the fabric. These holes will be used to slip stitch the “holding” part of the hook case onto the rectangle. Up to 5 mm hooks, I use 1 st loop to hold the hook down. For bigger hooks skip 1 or even 2 holes and adjust the tension of your yarn to make a slip stitch loop big enough to accommodate the bigger hook.
By using a contrasting color you can at any time in the future rework this part to fit more (or less) smaller or bigger hooks.

Hold your yarn at the back of your work (the outside of your crochet hook case). Push your hook into the work from the front to the back at the edge of the rectangle where column with the holes begins. Hook the yarn from behind your work and bring the new loop to the front. Be sure to hold on to the loose end of yarn!

Then, again push your hook through the fabric to the back, hook the yarn and bring it to the front of your work. This time bring your newly formed loop through the old one. Be careful not to pull the yarn too much or the fabric will pucker. When you reach the other side of the rectangle, fasten off.


In my Roll it Up & Go crochet hook case I used ties to keep it closed. Of course feel free to use buttons or something else instead.

With the larger hook make a chain big enough to wrap around your hook case when rolled up plus extra to tie into a bow. Also, add about 20 extra chains, the chain will end up shorter than it initially is. A total of 40 to 50 cm (16 to 17 inches) will probably be enough.

Next, switch to the smaller hook and slipstitch in the second chain from the hook and till the end. Fasten off.
Repeat for second tie.


Sew the ties to the outside of the Roll it Up & Go crochet hook case as pictured. Weave in ends and fill your hook case up with crochet hooks.