18 Jul

blue duck

Blue Duck shawl by La Visch Designs

You know that gorgeous blue-green that male ducks have? That is what this lovely lace-weight mohair yarn reminded me off. What better way to show it off than with all-over lace? Of course, the Blue Duck shawl can also be knit in fingering-weight yarns; just adjust the needle size a bit!

The Blue Duck shawl is knitted in lace patterning from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter tab. The instructions are, of course, provided charted and written out.


Price: € 6,50 add to basket

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Difficulty level

Knit this triangle-shaped shawl from the top-down, starting with a garter tab cast-on. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, yo, double yo, and a centered double decrease. Therefor, this pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: span width of 190 cm (74 ¾ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 81 cm (32 inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of the shawl by using heavier or lighter weight yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the body section. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: approx. 12.9 sts / 21.8 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern, measured after blocking.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: 400 m (438 yds) / 40 g GGH Kid (65% Mohair, 30% Nylon, 5% Wool; 250 m (273 yds) / 25 g) in the color 124 duck blue. Substitute any mohair type yarn with a halo of a similar weight for a similar result.
  • Size 5 mm (US 8) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles.
  • Yarn needle.
  • 4 stitch markers to indicate the center stitch and the edge stitches.
  • Stitch markers to indicate repeats in the lace patterning (optional).
08 Jul

tutorial – knit the knits and purl the purls

Tutorial - knit the knits and purl the purls

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links. I’ve indicated these links with an *.

Sometimes in patterns you may encounter the phrase “knit the knits, and purl the purls”. Besides the abbreviated versions of this, you may also encounter “work the stitches as they appear”. Especially if you’re a new knitter, it may be confusing what is exactly meant with this. No stress though! In this tutorial I’ll tell you all about it.

What it all comes down to, is being able to “read” your knitting. If you can correctly determine whether a certain stitch on your needle is a knit or a purl stitch, the instruction tells you exactly what to do next:

  • When you identify a knit stitch, it is to be knitted.
  • If you identify a purl stitch it is to be purled.

The important thing here is to remember is this: You only have to look at what the stitches look like on the left-hand needle while you’re working the new row or round. This can be confusing. What looks as a knit stitch on one side of the fabric, looks like a purl stitch on the other side. Ignore the side of the fabric facing away from you and focus only on the side facing you.

Below I’ll show you how to go about identifying your stitches, with the help of a swatch in 2×2 rib. (Ribbing formed by repeating (k2, p2) across your piece.)

Materials used

Yarn: * Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage Pink.

Needles: * KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 4 mm (US 6) size with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Identifying a knit stitch

Identifying a knit stitch

In the picture above the next 2 stitches on the left-hand needle are knit stitches. Do you see how they form little V-shapes? Therefore, if the first stitch on the left-hand needle has a V hugging the base of it, then it is a knit stitch and you knit it.

Identifying a purl stitch

Identifying a purl stitch

In this picture the next 2 stitches on the left-hand needle are purl stitches. The characteristic to identify it, is the little horizontal bar or bump just below where the stitch joins the needle. Therefore, if the first stitch on the left-hand needle has a horizontal bar hugging the base of it, then it is a purl stitch and you are to purl it.

And that’s all there is to “knit the knits and purl the purls”!

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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

24 Jun

tutorial – working a bobble from 3 rows below

tutorial - working a bobble from 3 rows below

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links. I’ve indicated these links with an *.

Bobbles are a lovely way to add texture to a knitting project. I’ve used them myself to add interest to an otherwise rather plain stockinette shawl body in my Moerbei shawl. They’re also rather popular as an extra design element on cabled sweaters.

In the basis a bobble is nothing more than a single stitch that is increased to a collection of stitches (usually 3, 5, or 7 stitches), worked back and forth and then decreased back again to a single stitch. There are, however, many ways to go about this.

In this tutorial I’m focusing on a specific kind of bobble that is described in the * Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible by Hitomi Shida. It’s worked in stockinette stitch on a background of reverse stockinette by working in a stitch 3 rows down. Read on for more details!

Materials used

Yarn: * Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Needles: * KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 4 mm (US 6) size with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Working a bobble from 3 rows below step by step

1. First, work in your piece of knitting to the point where you want to make the bobble. Remember, this bobble is worked on a background of reverse stockinette, so the purl side is the right side of the work.

2. Next we have to insert the right-hand needle into the center of the stitch, 3 rows down from the next stitch on the needle. I’ve indicated it with the yarn needle.

Identify the stitch 3 rows below

3. Move the working yarn to the back of the work (we’re working the bobble itself in stockinette, not in reverse stockinette!) ….

4. … and insert the right-hand needle right through the stitch to the back of the work!

Working a bobble from 3 rows below step 4

5. Now wrap the yarn around the needle and pull up a loop through the fabric.

Working a bobble from 3 rows below step 5

6. Wrap the yarn around the needle to form a yarn over.

Working a bobble from 3 rows below step 6

7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 once to make a 3 stitch bobble, or repeat steps 4 to 6 followed by steps 4 and 5 once again for a 5 stitch bobble. Pictured below is how it looks after working these steps for a 5 stitch bobble.

A 5-stitch bobble in progress

8. Next, drop the next stitch on the left-hand needle. It won’t ladder down below the bobble, because the stitch is secured by pulling the yarn through the fabric in the steps above.

9. Now work in pattern to the end of the row. You can see in the picture below, that I worked a 5 stitch bobble on the right and a 3 stitch bobble on the left.

Onwards to the next row

10. Turn the work and again work in pattern (knit) until you reach the bobble loops. Those we work in purl, because we’re looking at the wrong side of the work here.

11. This is how it looks after working this row. You can see the bobble stitches more easily now, because they are purled.

12. Again work in pattern to the bobble stitches. Now we have to decrease these 5 stitches back to 1 stitch. To do so, I have slipped the first 3 stitches together knit wise to the right-hand needle, worked a k2tog, and then passed the 3 slipped stitches over the result of the k2tog. This is the result of that decrease:

14. For the 3 stitch bobble I worked a sl2-k1-p2sso decrease. This is the result:

15. And this is how these bobbles look after 2 more rows in reverse stockinette have been worked. See how much fatter the 5 stitch bobble is when compared with the other one? You can, of course, work even fatter bobbles this way. Just repeat steps 4-6 twice or thrice instead of only once.

And this how to do it!

Found this tutorial useful? Tag me with @la_visch on Instagram or @lavischdesigns on Facebook if you’ve used it in a project!

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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

13 Jun

ribbon turquoise

Ribbon Turquoise by La Visch Designs

The Ribbon Turquoise shawl is not only named for the wavy ribbons of brown and turquoise shown. The name also refers to how the semi-precious stone is cut. Turquoise forms in veins of various widths within the surrounding rock. It’s called “ribbon turquoise” when the stone is cut to show the mother rock as the main feature with the original vein or ribbon of turquoise running through it as an accent.

Ribbon Turquoise is a triangle shawl worked from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck with a garter stitch tab. The instructions for the lace are provided both charted and written out.


Price: € 6,50 add to basket

Create your own Ebook! Purchase any 4 patterns and receive the 5th one for free. No code necessary, just put 5 patterns in your cart and the price of the lowest priced pattern will be automatically deducted from the total.

Difficulty level

Knit this triangle-shaped shawl from the top-down, starting with a garter tab cast-on. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, yo, double yo, left-leaning and right-leaning double decreases. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size – finished dimensions: 205 cm (80 ¾ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 100 cm (39 ½ inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of the shawl by using heavier or lighter weight yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the body patterning or the garter stitch edging. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: approx. 12 sts / 21 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, after blocking.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 5 pages in the English version and 6 pages in the Dutch version (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: Handmaiden Alpaca Merino (70% Superwash merino, 30% Alpaca; 300 m (328 yds) / 100 g) in the following amounts and colors: MC: 300 m (328 yds) / 100 g in Topaz and CC: 300 m (328 yds) / 100 g Brown Sugar. This yarn and pattern are also available as a kit from Sweater Sisters! Substitute any 2-ply wool/alpaca blend DK or sport weight yarn for a similar result, or use a fingering weight yarn for a smaller shawl.
  • Sample shawl: size 4.5 mm (US 7) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles. Choose a needle size appropriate for the yarn selected.
  • Yarn needle.
  • 4 stitch markers to indicate the center stitch and the edge stitches.
  • Stitch markers to indicate repeats in the lace patterning (optional).
10 Jun

tutorial – working an Estonian 3-into-3 star stitch

Tutorial - Working an Estonian 3-into-3 star stitch

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links. I’ve indicated these links with an *.

Estonian knitting, especially the lace knitting, is quite a bit different from other types of lace knitting. This is in a large part due to combination of openwork and texture that is the most prominent feature of Estonian lace knitting. You may have heard of the book * Pitsilised Koekirjad by Leili Riemann, for those interested in Estonian lace knitting, it’s a true treasure trove!

Anyway, often-used design elements include nupps and gathers. Another type of stitch that’s often used is the star stitch. This is the generic name for the type of stitch where interesting patterns are created by making 3 stitches out of 3; or 5 stitches out of 5 and then purling all stitches on the next row.

It’s also possible to decrease or increase stitches this way, by, for example, making 3 stitches out of 5, or 9 out of 5. Increasing with the star technique can be used to start flower-like lace shapes by first increasing 5 stitches to 9 (or 11) and over the next couple of rows gently decreasing the extra stitches away again.

Focus of this tutorial

In this tutorial I will focus on a basic 3-into-3 star stitch on a stockinette background. A 3-into-3 star stitch is made by knitting 3 stitches together without dropping stitches from left-hand needle; yarn over, knit the same 3 stitches together again before dropping it all from the left-hand needle.

When worked in the yarn-needle combination shown here, the results will be a nicely textured fabric. When worked with relatively large needles for the yarn chosen, a more lacy effect will be the result.

Materials used

Yarn: * Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage Pink.

Needles: * KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 4 mm (US 6) size with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Working an Estonian 3-into-3 star stitch step by step

1. First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the star stitch.

Step 1

2. Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 3 stitches at the same time as if to knit.

Step 2 in working an Estonian star stitch

3. Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through the stitches you inserted the right-hand needle in. Don’t drop the stitches off the left-hand needle yet!

Step 3 in working an Estonian star stitch

4. Wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle to form a yarn over.

Step 4, working a yo

5. Again, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the 3 stitches at the same time as if to knit.

Step 5 in working an Estonian star stitch

6. Again, wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through the stitches you inserted the right-hand needle in.

7. Now you can drop the stitches off the left-hand needle to finish the star stitch.

And this is how it looks after 3 more rows in stockinette have been worked, with 2 star stitches in a single row. Pretty, isn’t it?!

The result: a 3-into-3 star stitch!
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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

01 Jun

green madeira in tinyStudio Creative Life magazine

Green Madeira, a design by La Visch Designs

I’ve got some exciting news for you: my Green Madeira shawl pattern makes an appearance in the Q2 edition of tinyStudio Creative Life magazine!

I don’t know if you’re familiar with it, so I’ll just tell you. It’s a quarterly digital publication, with rich content like embedded videos, and slideable galleries of eye candy. It focuses on mindfulness, freedom from stress and clutter, and a conscious approach to fiber crafts. tinyStudio Creative Life is not just a magazine for spinners and fiber artists. There is also the tinyStudio TV video podcast. This gives hands on demonstrations of techniques, interviews with contributors, etc. to enrich and enhance the content of each issue. Below you can find the table of contents of this issue:

Q2 2020 tinyStudio Creative Life magazine table of contents

The underlying focus of this issue is celebration of design and inspiration, which sometimes comes from ‘time out’! This can mean different things to different people. For some, time out is aimed at taking a complete break from a difficult or challenging project. We sometimes talk of putting our knitting “in time out because it is not behaving!”

Other times it can mean taking “time out” for ourselves, to find inspiration and relaxation. This, in turn, that allows our creativity to replenish and flow again when we return. Which ever way you look at it, this issue has plenty to offer.

Green Madeira, a design by La Visch Designs

To get your copy of this issue of tinyStudio Creative Life, visit this link. Not sure yet whether you’d like it? Visit this page to download the free anniversary issue of tinyStudio magazine, and see all the rich content each and every issue provides.

27 May

tutorial – correcting a wrongly worked purl stitch

tutorial - correcting a wrongly worked purl stitch

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links. I’ve indicated these links with an *.

If you’ve ever worked some sort of patterning in your knitting, you know it can happen easily: a short distraction. And when your attention is somewhere else a purl stitch is worked instead of knit stitch, or vice versa. It may even be that you won’t notice it until several more rows or rounds have been worked.

Personally, I have a very big aversion against ripping out my work, just because I made a little mistake a couple of rows back. I mean, it certainly is an option, but I consider it to be more of a last resort type of option.

So, in this tutorial I’ll show you how to deal with a wrongly worked purl stitch that should have been a knit stitch.

Materials used

Yarn: * Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

A crochet hook in the same size or slightly smaller than your knitting needles. For example this * Pony Aluminum Crochet Hook in size 4 mm.

Fixing the wrongly worked stitch step by step

In this example, 2 stitches next to each other are purled instead of knitted in the stockinette fabric. Since there are only 2, I correct them one by one and not at the same time.

1. First, slip the stitches purl-wise from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle, until you reach the first wrong stitch.

Fixing the wrongly worked stitch step 1

2. Drop this stitch and ladder down up to and including the purl stitch.

Fixing the wrongly worked stitch step 2

3. Since we want to create stockinette stitch fabric, we now insert the crochet hook through the correct stitch directly below the laddered-down purl stitch from the front to the back.

Fixing the wrongly worked stitch step 3

4. Next, ladder your way up again by inserting the crochet hook underneath the horizontal thread directly above the hook, and pulling the thread through the loop already on the hook to make a new knit stitch. Repeat this until all horizontal threads have been worked. After this you can place the stitch back unto the knitting needle.

Fixing the wrongly worked stitch step 4

5. Next, repeat steps 1 to 4 for the next wrongly worked purl stitch. The result should look something like this:

Fixing the wrongly worked stitch step 5.

But what if I need to fix a knit into a purl?

Good question! Well, as you know the wrong side of a knit stitch is a purl stitch and vice versa. So, the easiest way to fix the reverse situation as pictured in this tutorial, is to just turn your work so the wrong side is facing! This way you’ve got the exact situation as pictured here.

If you do want to ladder up a purl stitch, do the following:

1. To start, move the next horizontal thread directly above the stitch from the back to the front of the work.

2. Next, insert the crochet hook into the stitch from the back to the front, grab the loose thread and pull it through the stitch on the hook.

If you’d like pictures with these last steps, take a look at the second part of my tutorial on how to fix a dropped stitch in garter stitch.

Patreon logo

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

26 May

strawberry confetti cupcake

Strawberry Confetti Cupcake by La Visch Designs

Strawberry Confetti Cupcake is a shawl designed to use that skein of speckled yarn you just couldn’t resist. In this design, it is paired with the lovely lace border in a contrasting solid color. Go wild with the color combinations!

This shawl is knitted from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter tab. The patterning in the edging is based on a stitch pattern by Naomi Parkhurst and is worked on both right and wrong side rows. The instructions for the edging are both charted and written out.


Price: € 6,50 add to basket

Create your own Ebook! Purchase any 4 patterns and receive the 5th one for free. No code necessary, just put 5 patterns in your cart and the price of the lowest priced pattern will be automatically deducted from the total.

Difficulty level

Patterning in the edging of the shawl is on both RS and WS rows and contains simple cables. Stitches used include knit, purl, skp, k2tog, left and right leaning double decreases, yo, and double yo. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size: Wingspan of 223 cm (87 ¾ inches) and a depth of 100 cm (39 ½ inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of this shawl by using lighter or heavier yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the various sections in the body of the shawl. This will of course change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: approx. 14 sts / 27 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, after blocking.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: Diva Sock Star by Dutch Wool Diva (75% merino wool, 25% nylon; 425 m (465 yds) / 100 g) in the following colors and amounts: MC: 425 m (465 yds) / 100 g in Ariël and CC: 425 m (465 yds) / 100 g in Tannenbaum. Substitute wool fingering weight yarn of comparable thickness, in a speckled colorway for the MC and a solid or tonal colorway as a CC for a similar result.
  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles.
  • Yarn needle.
  • Cable needle.
  • 4 stitch markers to indicate the center stitch and the edge stitches.
  • Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the lace patterning (optional).