15 Feb

faaborg

Faaborg shawl

The Faaborg shawl (or Fåborg as written in Danish) is a delightfully whimsical shawl – a lovely layering piece with a lot of playful character and substance. This is certainly a shawl that will keep you warm and cozy in the most turbulent of autumn and winter weather.

Start the shawl with a garter stitch tab. The colorwork in the border is done using the slip-stitch mosaic technique, so you will be handling only one strand of yarn at all times. The border patterning is both charted and written out.


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Difficulty level

Knit the triangle-shaped Faaborg shawl from the top-down, starting with a garter tab cast-on. The edging uses the slip-stitch mosaic colorwork technique. Stitches used include knit, purl, m1bl, k2tog tbl, as well as slipping stitches.

This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size – finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 193 cm (76 inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 84 cm (33 inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of the shawl by using heavier or lighter weight yarn and/or working less (or more) repeats of the various sections. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: approx. 12.5 sts / 22 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, after blocking.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: MC – 450 m (492 yds) / 150 g CaMaRose Økologisk Hverdagsuld (100% wool; 150 m (164 yds) / 50 g) in Mørk Okker 37. CC – 150 m (164 yds) / 50 g Tusindfryds Hverdagsuld (100% wool; 150 m (164 yds) / 50 g) in 47/39870 brown. Substitute any 2-ply 100% wool DK or sport weight yarn for a similar result.
  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles
  • Size 4.5 mm (US 7) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles
  • Yarn needle
  • 4 stitch markers
12 Feb

tutorial – sl2-k1-p2sso centered double decrease

Working the sl2-k1-p2sso centered double decrease

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links. I’ve indicated these links with an *.

A centered (or central) double decrease as shown in this tutorial, reduces 3 stitches down to 1 stitch in a symmetrical way. The sl2-k1-p2sso abbreviation is short for “slip two sts, k1 st, pass the 2 slipped sts over the knitted st”. You may however also encounter CDD or S2KP as abbreviations for this decrease.

It results in a strong vertical decrease line that doesn’t slant to either the left or the right. It’s a decrease that’s often used in lace patterns, and for example at the base of a v-neck opening in a sweater. A very useful decrease to have in your knitter’s toolkit!

Read on to see how it’s worked.

Materials

Yarn: * Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 128 Lime Green.

Needles: * KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 4 mm (US 6) size with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Working a sl2-k1-p2sso step by step

1. First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the decrease. In this case, I want to work the double decrease over the 3 stitches in the middle of the swatch.

Step 1 of working a sl2-k1-p2sso

2. To start, slip the next two stitches knitwise and together from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle. Basically as if to knit those two stitches together.

Step 2 of working a sl2-k1-p2sso

3. The below picture shows how it looks after slipping these two stitches to the right-hand needle.

How it looks after sl2

4. To knit the next stitch on the left-hand knitting needle, first, insert the right-hand needle knitwise into the front loop of the stitch.

5. Wrap the yarn around the needle…

6. … and pull it through the stitch.

7. To finish the knit stitch, slide the original stitch off the left-hand needle.

8. Now for the third and last part of this decrease, insert the left-hand needle into the two slipped stitches …

9. … and pull them over the single knitted stitch and off the right-hand needle to complete the decrease.

The finished sl2-k1-p2sso decrease!

The below picture shows how it looks after 2 more decrease rows have been worked. Please note that the bottom half of the swatch pictured shows the kfb increases I showed you in a previous tutorial.

Result of the sl2-k1-p2sso centered double decrease
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29 Jan

tutorial – working a kfb

Working a kfb

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links. I’ve indicated these links with an *.

There are lots of ways to increase the number of stitches on your needle. Knitting in the front and back of the same stitch, also known as the kfb increase, is a relatively easy one. The kfb increase is also known as a “bar increase” because it forms a little horizontal bar in your work.

Due to this little bar, this increase is virtually invisible in garter stitch. When used in stockinette, as shown in this tutorial, it forms a series of decorative bars along the increase line. This how-to will give you step by step instructions on how to work the “knit front and back” increase.

Materials used

Yarn: * Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 128 Lime Green.

Needles: * KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 4 mm (US 6) size with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Working a kfb step by step

I’ve made a little swatch and will be making the increases 2 sts in from each of the garter stitch borders.

The swatch

1. First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the increase. In this case, I want the increase 2 sts in from the garter stitch border on the right. A kfb first makes a knit stitch, followed by the extra “bar” stitch on the left of it. Because of this, I start working the kfb over the second stitch.

Find your place.

2. To start, insert the right-hand needle knitwise into the front loop of the stitch.

step 3 of making a kfb

3. Wrap the yarn around the needle…

step 4 of making a kfb

4. … and pull it through the stitch. Do not let the original stitch slide of the left-hand needle yet!

step 5 of making a kfb

5. Now we insert the right-hand needle knitwise into the back loop of the stitch.

step 6 of making a kfb

6. Wrap the yarn around the needle…

step 7 of making a kfb

7. … and pull it through the stitch.

step 8 of making a kfb

8. To complete the kfb increase you can now let the original stitch slide from the needle. This is how it looks now: a knit stitch with an extra “bar stitch” to the left of it.

step 9 of making a kfb

9. In this swatch, I’m also making an increase on the left side of the fabric. Because I want the bar stitch to be 2 sts in from the garter stitch, I now have to work the increase over the 3rd stitch from the right of the garter stitch edge stitches.

Making sure to increase symmetrically

This is how it looks after the entire row with its 2 increases has been worked:

Do you see the bars?

And here again, after 3 increase rows total have been worked, each with 2 kfb increases.

The result

And that’s all there is to it!

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20 Jan

kanta

Kanta hat by La Visch Designs

Kanta is Swedish for “braid” and for “edge.” What name is more suited for this unusual hat? Not only is the Kanta hat is knitted sideways in garter stitch, but the braided edge detail also does not involve any cable knitting. This is a lovely knit when looking for something different!

This pattern contains instructions for three sizes, ranging from child to adult. The hat pictured is in the largest size. A photo tutorial on how to work the braid is included.


Price: € 4,90 add to basket

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Difficulty level

The Kanta Hat is started with a provisional cast-on. Other techniques used consist of short rows, mid-row bind off and cast-on of stitches, and a 3-needle bind off. The eye-catching braid does not involve cable knitting.

Stitches used include knit, purl and slipping stitches. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

To fit size: 45 (53, 61) cm / 17 ¾ (20 ¾, 24) inches.
Finished size: 40 (48, 56) cm / 15 ¾ (19, 22) inches circumference, after washing and gentle blocking.

When choosing your hat size, take 2.5 – 5 cm (1 – 2 inches) of negative ease into account for a fitted hat. For a more slouchy fit, take approx. 0 – 2.5 cm (0 – 1 inch) of positive ease into account.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: approx. 13 sts / 20 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, after washing and gentle blocking.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: 65 (95, 125) m (70 (105, 140) yds) / 65 (95, 125) g Garnstudio DROPS Andes [65% wool, 35% alpaca; 100 m (109 yds) per 100 g]. Substitute any wool or wool-blend super bulky weight yarn for a similar result.
  • Knitting needles in your preferred style in the following sizes (or to match gauge): Size 5 mm (US 8) needles, and an extra size 5 mm (US 8) needle for working the 3-needle bind off.
  • Waste yarn for provisional cast-on
  • Yarn needle
  • 1 stitch marker
  • 1 button with a diameter of approx. 4.5 cm (1 ¾ inch)
  • 1 crochet hook in size 8 mm (US L) (optional, for braiding)
19 Jan

tutorial – fixing a forgotten yo

Fixing a forgotten YO - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links. I’ve indicated these links with an *.

If you’ve ever knit lace or eyelet-patterning you know it can happen easily: a short distraction. And when your attention is somewhere else a yarn over or yo is forgotten and all patterning and shaping is thrown off-course. It may even be that you won’t notice it until several more rows or rounds have been worked.

Personally, I have a very big aversion against ripping out my work, just because I forgot one teeny tiny stitch a couple of rows back. I mean, it certainly is an option, but I consider it to be more of a last resort type of option.

So, without further ado, here a way to fix that forgotten yo without issues and stress!

Materials used

Yarn: * Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

A crochet hook in the same size or slightly smaller than your knitting needles. For example this * Pony Aluminum Crochet Hook in size 4 mm.

Fixing a forgotten yo step by step

1. First, go to the spot in your knitting where the yo should have been. If you look carefully, you can see horizontal threads between the 2 columns of stitches. Do you also see the left-leaning decrease, 4 stitches down on the left-hand needle?

Right next to it is where the forgotten yo should have been. This means we need to insert the crochet hook from bottom to top underneath threads 3 and 4, counting from the needle down.

Step 1 of fixing a forgotten yo.

2. Next, pull the top thread through the other one on the hook to create the yarn over or yo.

Step 2 of fixing a forgotten yo.

3. The next step is to insert the crochet hook underneath the horizontal thread directly above new yo and pull the thread through the loop already on the hook to make a new knit stitch. Repeat this (for stockinette) as often as needed until you’ve run out of threads to pull through and place the stitch on the left-hand needle.

Step 3 of fixing a forgotten yo.

Now you’re ready to continue your knitting!

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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

21 Dec

indian summer rye

Indian Summer Rye cowl

Designed for the self-striping yarn pictured, this cowl is a wonderful knit for both Spring and Fall. The lacy chevron patterning creates lovely wavy edges. The cowl is knit from the top down in a gentle conical shape for superb draping around the shoulders that will keep them nice and warm.

The Indian Summer Rye cowl is knit seamless and in the round from the top down. The instructions are provided both charted and written out.


Price: € 5,50 add to basket

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Difficulty level

The Indian Summer Rye cowl is seamless and knit in the round from the top down. The patterning includes stitches worked through the back loop. Stitches used include knit, purl, kfb, yo, and a centered double decrease.

This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size: 66 cm (26 inches) circumference at the top edge, 98 cm (38 ½ inches) at the bottom edge and 37 cm (14 ½ inches) high.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: 18.5 sts / 21 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over pattern after washing and gentle blocking. Please take the time to check your gauge, or the resulting cowl may have a different size than intended!
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 3 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: 400 m (437 yds) / 100 g Mille Colori Socks & Lace by Lang Yarns [75% wool, 25% polyamide; 400 m (437 yds) / 100 g] in color 87.0090. Substitute any single-ply type fingering weight yarn with long color runs for a similar result.
  • Circular needles in the following sizes (or to match gauge):
    • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 40 cm (16 inches)
    • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 60 cm (24 inches)
    • Size 4.5 mm (US 7) / 60 cm (24 inches) (optional, used for bind-off only)
  • Yarn needle
  • 1 end-of-round stitch marker
18 Dec

tutorial – preventing gaps in slip-stitch patterning

Tutorial - Preventing gaps in slip stitch patterning

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links. I’ve indicated these links with an *.

In this new design, I’m using mosaic slip-stitch patterning in the border. The beauty of this type of colorwork is that it is worked with a single color in a single row. In other words: An RS and a WS row are worked in the main color (MC). After working these two rows, the MC is dropped, and an RS and a WS row are worked with the contrast color (CC) yarn while slipping the sts indicated.

However, I didn’t want to use the CC yarn in the garter stitch border of 3 stitches on each side of the shawl. This caused the gaps to happen that you can see at the bottom dot:

A gap!

So, of course, I had to think of a way to prevent these! I settled on a “wrap & turn” like approach, similar to w&t as in working traditional short-rows. Read on for the step by step how-to!

Materials used

Yarn: The yellow yarn is Økologisk Hverdagsuld (“organic everyday wool”) by Camarose Dk. The brown is HverdagsUld by Tusindfryd. I got these at the lovely yarn store “By Bek” in Fåborg, Denmark when I was there on vacation.

Needles: * Addi Circular Needles, pictured here in the 4 mm (US 6) size, with 80 cm (32 inches) cable.

Preventing gaps on the right step by step

1. In this row, I’m about to start the RS row using the CC yarn. The CC yarn tail is located 3 stitches in from the edge of the work, at the WS of the fabric.

Preventing gaps on the right side

2. First, we have to reach that CC yarn tail. To do so, slip the 3 MC stitches purlwise as well as the stitch marker to the right-hand needle.

Preventing gaps on the right side

3. Next, bring the CC between the needles to the front of the work.

Preventing gaps on the right side

4. Slip the stitch marker and the first of the MC stitches back the left-hand needle.

Preventing gaps on the right side

5. Now move the CC yarn between the needles back again to the WS of the work.

Preventing gaps on the right side

6. Now slip the remaining MC edge stitch and the stitch marker back to the right-hand needle and continue with the instructions in the remainder of the row.

Preventing gaps on the right side

Preventing gaps on the left step by step

1. In this row, I’m nearing the end of the RS row using the CC yarn. Stop right before the 3 MC edge stitches, the CC yarn tail as at the back of the work at WS.

Preventing gaps on the left side

2. First, we slip both the stitch marker and the first of the MC edge stitches (purlwise!) to the right-hand needle.

Preventing gaps on the left side

3. Next, we bring the CC between the needles to the front of the work. (My apologies that this picture is a tad blurry! Didn’t notice until it was too late to redo).

Preventing gaps on the left side

4. Slip the stitch marker and the first of the MC edge stitches back the left-hand needle.

Preventing gaps on the left side

5. Now move the CC yarn between the needles back again to the WS (the back) of the work.

Preventing gaps on the left side

And now you’re ready to continue with the instructions for your pattern for the remainder of the row!

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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

17 Nov

sunglow forest

Sunglow Forest shawl

Sunglow Forest is a crescent-shaped shawl worked from the top-down. The perfect shawl to throw on for a refreshing walk in the woods!

The body of the shawl contains special shaping, which helps to avoid the “bump” in the upper edge of the shawl, so often present in crescent shawl designs. The instructions for the border of the shawl are provided both fully charted and written out.


Price: € 6,50 add to basket

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Difficulty level

This shawl is started with a modified garter stitch tab and contains cable knitting. The lace in the edging is worked on both RS and WS rows. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, p2tog, skp, yo and m1L and m1R increases.

This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size – finished dimensions of the sample Sunglow Forest shawl: 188 cm (74 inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 63 cm (24 ¾ inches), measured after blocking.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: 17 sts / 25 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, measured after blocking. Gauge is, however, not critical in this design.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: Fleece Artist Merino Slim (100% Merino wool; 400 m (437 yds) / 115 g) in the following amounts and colors: MC -400 m (437 yds) / 115 g in “Tourmaline” and CC – 400 m (437 yds) / 115 g in “Minegold”. This yarn and pattern are also available as a kit from Sweater Sisters! Substitute any wool single ply type fingering weight yarn for a similar result.
  • Size 4 mm (US Size 6) 80 cm (32 inches) or longer circular needle.
  • Yarn needle
  • 2 stitch markers to mark the center of the shawl
  • Cable needle in the same size or smaller than your main needles
29 Oct

tutorial – fixing a dropped stitch

Tutorial - fixing a dropped stitch

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a commission if you purchase something through these links. I’ve indicated these links with an *.

It can happen just like that: a dropped stitch in the middle of your work! When using a somewhat “sticky” yarn, it is usually a matter of putting the stitch back on the needle and continuing to knit. With a smooth yarn, however, it may be that the stitch ladders down in your work….

Do not panic, though! A dropped stitch really isn’t that hard to fix. Especially when the project is still on the needles and you’re not dealing with patterning and shaping. So, in this tutorial, I’ll show you how to fix a dropped stitch in the middle of a piece of stockinette knitting.

Materials used

Yarn: * Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

A crochet hook in the same size or slightly smaller than your knitting needles. For example this * Pony Aluminum Crochet Hook in size 4 mm.

Fixing a dropped stitch step by step

1. First, grab your crochet hook and catch the fallen stitch before it ladders even further down!

A fallen stitch!

2. Take a look at the last stitch that sits correctly in the fabric and the stitch directly below it: Here we have stockinette stitch. This means that we, therefore, insert the crochet hook through the stitch from the front to the back.

Catch the wayward stitch with your crochet hook.

3. Next, insert the crochet hook underneath the thread directly above the dropped stitch…

Catch the next thread.

4. … and pull the thread through the loop already on the hook to make a new knit stitch.

Pull the loop through.

5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 (for stockinette) until you have run out of threads to pull through.

All fixed!

6. Place the stitch back on the knitting needle and continue knitting as if nothing happened!

Tutorial - fixing a dropped stitch

An that’s all there is to it! Really not that hard, right?

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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

20 Oct

think pink

Think Pink shawl - a design by La Visch Designs

Looking for an eye-catching layering piece for when the weather and seasons turn? A knit that combines both relaxing stockinette as well as challenging patterning? Look no further! The Think Pink shawl has you covered. And yes, pun intended! Or make the shawl in a different color.

Written and charted instructions for the patterned central section are included. Written directions for the central section and plain stockinette/increase section are written separately and must be read together to work each row.


Price: € 6,50 add to basket

Create your own Ebook! Purchase any 4 patterns and receive the 5th one for free. No code necessary, just put 5 patterns in your cart and the price of the lowest priced pattern will be automatically deducted from the total.

Difficulty level

The Think Pink shawl starts with a garter stitch tab, and the patterning is worked on both RS and WS rows. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, make 1 with a backward loop, right and left twist stitches, a knot stitch, a centered double decrease as well as knitting tbl.

This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size: Wingspan of 180 cm (71 inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 67 cm (26 ½ inches), measured after blocking.

Adjust the sizing by using a different weight yarn and/or working a different number of repeats of the body pattern or the border. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

  • Gauge: 14.5 sts / 23 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, measured after blocking. Gauge is, however, not critical in this design.
  • Pattern languages included: English, the Dutch version will be available soon. (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 6 pages (letter size)

Materials

  • Yarn: 800 m (875 yds) / 400 g Debbie Bliss Piper (50% Cotton, 50% Rayon; 200 m (219 yds) / 100 g) in 12016 Magenta. Substitute any cotton/rayon blend DK weight yarn for a similar result.
  • Size 4 mm (US 6) / 100 cm (40 inches) circular needles
  • Size 4.5 mm (US 7) knitting needle (for bind-off only)
  • Yarn needle
  • 2 stitch markers to indicate the center section
  • Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the central patterning (optional)