news & releases - La Visch Designs

tutorial – jog-less garter stitch in the round: lifted strand & p2tog method

Jog-less garter stitch in the round: lifted strand & p2tog method - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Garter stitch is wonderfully squishy and reversible, but when worked in the round it comes with a small challenge. Because circular knitting is actually worked as a continuous spiral, the beginning and end of each round don’t meet at exactly the same height. This creates a visible “jog” where the knit and purl rounds join. Depending on your yarn and project, this jog may hardly be noticeable, or it may stand out quite clearly. Smooth yarns, solid colors and simple stitch patterns often make it more obvious.

There are several ways to try and make the transition to a new round as jog-less as possible. The lifted strand and p2tog method described in this tutorial, I found on the website of Susanna Winter (Talvi Knits). With this method, a strand of yarn between two stitches is lifted and worked together with the final stitch of the purl round. This creates a much smoother transition between rounds without changing your stitch count. Let’s take a look at how it’s done!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: I knit the swatch with tiny circular needles, but transferred it to this is a pair of straights for some of the pictures. I picked these up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

A note before we start

Before we begin, garter stitch in the round is worked as follows:

Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: Purl all stitches.

In the swatch you see below, I’ve worked 10 rounds in garter stitch without doing anything to smooth the transition. Do you see how the garter stitches ridges on the left and right of the marker do not line up?

Garter stitch in the round without any smoothing

Knitting jog-less garter stitch in the round: lifted strand & p2tog method step by step

The modification on making the transition jog-less with the lifted strand and p2tog method is only worked at the very end of every purl round.

Knit a round, then purl across the entire round until only one stitch remains before the beginning-of-round marker.
Move the working yarn to the back of the work….
…. then slip the final stitch purl-wise to the right-hand needle with the working yarn held at the back of the work.
Do not move the beginning-of-round marker yet!
Locate the horizontal strand running between the slipped stitch and the first stitch of the next round. Insert the right-hand needle from front to back underneath this strand, in the same direction used when working a right-leaning lifted increase (M1R). Lift the strand onto the left-hand needle.
Slip the last stitch back onto the left-hand needle.
You should now have the lifted strand, and the slipped stitch next to each other on the left-hand needle.
Move the working yarn back to the front of the work again, and purl the lifted strand together with the slipped stitch (p2tog). Pulling the yarn just a little firmer than usual helps keep the join tidy without creating puckering.
Work steps 1-6 for every 2 rounds that you work in garter stitch.

The result

After several garter ridges have been worked, the beginning of the round blends much more smoothly into the surrounding fabric. Instead of a sharp step between rounds, the transition becomes gently angled and far less noticeable. Like many jog-less techniques, this method is a visual improvement rather than a completely invisible join. Below, you can see a comparison between doing nothing to smooth the transition (the bottom 5 ridges) and using the lifted strand & p2tog method (the upper 5 ridges).

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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london vibes

When I was visiting London, this lovely bright turquoise kid silk yarn caught my eye. What better way to show it off than with all-over lace? So, that’s what I did! Of course, this shawl can also be knit in fingering-weight yarn; different vibe, just as pretty!

London Vibes is knit in lace patterning from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter tab. The instructions are provided charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €7.25)

€

Difficulty level

This triangle-shaped shawl is knit from the top down, starting with a garter tab cast-on. Patterning in the body of the shawl is on both RS and WS rows. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, yo, and double yo.

This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size (easily adjusted) – finished dimensions of the sample shawl: Span width of 163 cm (64 ¼ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 77 cm (30 ¼ inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of the London Vibes shawl by using heavier or lighter weight yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the body, the border, or both. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Gauge: 11.4 sts / 24.7 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern, measured after blocking. Gauge is not critical in this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn, and needles used.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 7 pages (letter size)

Yarn

418 m (457 yds) / 50 g Rowan Kidsilk Haze (70% mohair, 30% silk; 209 m (229 yds) / 25 g) in the color 00722 “Turquoise”.

Substitute any mohair type yarn with a halo of a similar lace weight for a similar result.

Materials

Size 4.5 mm (US 7) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. If using fingering weight yarn with less halo, needles in size 4 mm (US 6) are suggested.
4 stitch markers to indicate the center and edge stitches
Stitch markers to indicate repeats in the lace patterning (optional)
Yarn needle

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stitch pattern – grape bobble stitch

Grape bobble stitch - a stitch pattern La Visch Designs

The Grape Bobble stitch pattern creates a fabric dotted with bobbles that resemble clusters of grapes. The raised texture stands out beautifully against a background of reverse stockinette. This makes this stitch an excellent choice for adding depth and visual interest to all kinds of knitting projects. Although the bobbles may look complex, they are straightforward to work once you understand the construction. In this stitch pattern the usual construction of the bobbles is used, consisting of turning the work, and purling back. You can, of course, also knit backwards over the bobble stitches instead. A tutorial on how to do that will be available soon on this website.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 10+3 stitches, in a ten-row repeat. Please note that no extra edge stitches have been added to the sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Lime.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
mb – make bobble: Work (k1,yo, k1, yo, k1) into the next stitch; turn, p5; turn, k5; pass the first, second, third, and fourth stitch (counted from the point of the needle) separately over the last stitch worked
p – purl

Grape bobble stitch instructions

Row 1 (RS): K2, *p4, mb, p4, k1*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1. (13 sts)
Row 2 (WS): K1, *(p1, k4) twice*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 3: K2, *p3, mb, p1, mb, p3, k1*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 4: K1, p1, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k3*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 5: K2, *p2, (mb, p1) twice, mb, p2, k1*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 6: K1, p1,* k2, (p1, k1) twice, p1, k2*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 7: K2, *(p4, k1) twice*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 8: K1, *(p1, k4) twice*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Rows 9 – 10: Rep rows 7-8.

Repeat rows 1-10 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Grape bobble stitch - from the right side — Grape bobble stitch – from the right side

Grape bobble stitch - from the wrong side — Grape bobble stitch – from the wrong side

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tutorial – knitting backwards

Knitting backwards - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Knitting backwards, also known as reverse knitting or mirror knitting, is a useful technique that allows you to work stitches from left to right without turning your work. Instead of reaching the end of a row, turning the fabric, and working back across in the usual direction, you simply continue knitting in the opposite direction. This technique can be particularly useful when working short rows, entrelac, bobbles, or other stitch patterns that require frequent turning. Many knitters also use it to avoid purling, especially when working stockinette fabric. By alternating regular knitting with backwards knitting, it is possible to stay on the same side of the fabric throughout the project.

While knitting backwards may feel awkward at first, it becomes much easier with practice. The key is to remember that you are essentially performing the same actions as a knit stitch, but in reverse. Ok, lets get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Knitting backwards step by step

In this tutorial, I’m showing you how to work this technique in working a bobble. So much less hassle to knit backwards instead of turning your work for every bobble!

Hold your knitting as you normally would. The stitches to be worked are the 5 near the point on the right-hand needle, and the working yarn is positioned at the back of the work.
Unlike regular knitting, you will now create new stitches on the left-hand needle while working from left to right across the row.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the back leg of the first stitch on the right-hand needle. Enter the stitch from left to right.
This feels unusual at first because the left needle becomes the active working needle.
Using your right hand, wrap the working yarn from the back and over, then around the tip of the left-hand needle.
Don’t wrap the yarn too tight, this can make the next row difficult to work. Also, you can wrap the working yarn the other way around around the needle. However, this will result in a twisted stitch. To untwist it in the next row, work it through the back loop.
Using the tip of the right-hand needle, lift the old stitch over the yarn you wrapped around the needle, and drop it from the needle.
Take care not to pull the working yarn too tightly, to prevent tension issues.
Now pull the right-hand needle out of the stitch that is nearest to its tip.
The new loop remains on the left-hand needle while the old stitch has been released from the right-hand needle.
Repeat Steps 2 through 5 for each stitch, in this case for the 5 stitches that make up the bobble.
After a few repeats, the movement becomes more fluid. Focus on maintaining even tension rather than speed.

Tips for success

Knitting backwards is one of those techniques that can seem awkward initially but becomes surprisingly intuitive once mastered. It is not intended to replace regular knitting, but it can be a valuable addition to your knitting toolbox. Whenever a pattern requires constant turning or small sections worked back and forth, knitting backwards can save time and help maintain a smooth workflow. To make sure you get the most out of this technique:

Practice first on a small swatch before using the technique in a project.
Keep the stitches relaxed to avoid tight gauge, many knitters find their backwards knitting tension is tighter than their regular knitting at first.
Work slowly until the hand movements become familiar.
If your stitches appear twisted on the next row, check that the yarn is being wrapped over the needle towards you, then around to the back again.

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stitch pattern – wavy lines

Wavy Lines - a stitch pattern by La Visch Designs

Some stitch patterns make their impact with intricate cables or elaborate lace. Others achieve something equally striking with just a few simple stitches arranged in a clever way. The wavy lines stitch falls firmly into the second category. Although the pattern may look complex, it’s actually quite simple once you’ve worked through it for a couple of rows. It’s really nothing more than a rib pattern with strategically placed drop-stitches. Whether worked as a sampler square, incorporated into an blanket, or used as an all-over pattern for shawls and accessories, wavy lines is an enjoyable stitch pattern with a stunning result.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 8 stitches, and in a twelve-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Marine Blue.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

drop stitch – remove the next stitch from the needle, and let it drop down until it reaches the yarn over beneath in the same column of stitches.
k – knit
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over

Wavy lines stitch instructions

Set up row (RS): *K1, p1, yo, p1, k2, p2, k1*; rep *-* to end.

Row 1 (WS): *P1, k2, p2, k3, p1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (RS): *K1, p3, k2, p2, k1*; rep *-* to end.
Rows 3-4: Rep rows 1-2 once.
Row 5: *P1, k2, p2, k3, p1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 6: *K1, p1, drop stitch, p1, k2, p1, yo, p1, k1*; rep *-* to end.

Row 7: *P1, k3, p2, k2, p1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 8: *K1, p2, k2, p3, k1*; rep *-* to end.
Rows 9-10: Rep rows 7-8 once.
Row 11: *P1, k3, p2, k2, p1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 12: *K1, p1, yo, p1, k2, p1, drop stitch, p1, k1*; rep *-* to end.

Repeat these 12 rows to desired length, ending with either a row 6 or 12. On your final row (6 or 12), omit the yarn overs.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Wavy Lines - from the RS — Wavy Lines – from the RS

Wavy Lines - from the WS — Wavy Lines – from the WS

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tutorial – the mechanism of drop-stitch patterning

The mechanism of drop-stitch patterning - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

One of the first things knitters learn is how to avoid dropping stitches. So it can feel a little strange when a pattern asks you to do exactly that! Fortunately, intentional drop stitches are much less intimidating than accidental ones. Although those are not the end of the world either, take a look here and here for tutorials. In fact, when used thoughtfully, intentionally dropped stitches create beautiful openwork effects that are difficult to achieve any other way. The secret lies in understanding what controls the dropped stitch and prevents it from running all the way down to the cast-on edge.

A dropped stitch is simply a stitch that is deliberately allowed to unravel. Normally, such a dropped stitch could ladder down all the way in your knitting. However, in drop-stitch patterning, the drop-stitch is paired with a yarn over worked several rows below. The yarn over creates an eyelet that acts as a stopping point. When releasing the stitch, it unravels only until it reaches that eyelet. In other words: The yarn over acts as a built-in safety stop. It determines exactly how far the stitch can run down.

When working a pattern that includes dropped stitches, always identify 1) the stitch that will eventually be dropped, and 2) the yarn over that will stop the unraveling. If these two elements line up vertically, everything will behave exactly as intended. Lets grab our materials, and try it out!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a drop stitch stitch step by step

I will share the directions for the stitch pattern used in this example in a separate post.

Knit in pattern until you reach the stitch designated as the drop stitch.
In this particular stitch pattern, the drop stitch is always the center stitch of a purl-three section.
Before continuing to the dropping part of working a drop-stitch, take a moment to look several rows below. You should see a yarn over directly beneath that stitch column. That yarn over is your stopping point.
Do you see it in the picture above?
If there indeed is a yarn over beneath the stitch column, simply slip the stitch off the needle. There is no need to knit it, purl it, or manipulate it further. Just let it go!
Next, allow the stitch to unravel.
Smooth yarns may run down almost by themselves. Yarns that are more “grabby”, may need some help; just tease those strands loose.
As the stitch reaches the yarn over, it can unravel no farther. The eyelet forms a stable anchor point, stopping the dropped column exactly where intended. What remains is a series of elongated loops stretching neatly between the current row and the yarn over below.
If the stitch does not stop at the expected point, check whether the yarn over was worked correctly.

And that´s all there is to it. Pretty neat, right?

The result - The mechanism of drop-stitch patterning

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tutorial – knitting a bobble

Knitting a bobble - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Bobbles are a lovely way to add texture to a knitting project. I’ve used them myself to add interest to an otherwise rather plain stockinette shawl body in my Moerbei shawl. They’re also rather popular as an extra design element on cabled sweaters. In the basis a bobble is nothing more than a single stitch that is increased to a collection of stitches (usually 3, 5, or 7 stitches), worked back and forth and then decreased back again to a single stitch. There are, however, many ways to go about this.

In this tutorial I will show you a 5-stitch version of a bobble. Read on for more details!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Knitting a bobble step by step

First, work in your piece of knitting to the point where you want to make the bobble.
Next, insert the right-hand needle into the center of the next stitch on the needle, and work a [k1, yo, k1, yo, k1] increase into that stitch.
Turn you work, and purl the 5 stitches you increased to.
Again turn you work, and knit the 5 stitches you increased to.
Now, pass the second stitch from the tip of the right-hand needle over the first one (the last stitch knitted).
Repeat step 5 another 3 times, until you only have 1 stitch left.
The result: a lovely 5-stitch bobble!

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tutorial – working the double knit below increase

Tutorial on working the double knit below increase - by La Visch Designs

Double increases aren’t as commonly used as basic single increases. Nevertheless, they absolutely have their place in the knitter’s toolkit. The double knit below increase is a variation of a lifted increase. Instead of only increasing 1 stitch, however, you’re increasing 1 stitch to 3 stitches.

As you’ll see, the structure of this increase, is very similar to the k-yo-k increase. Rather than placing a yarn over between the two knit stitches, this variation uses a double-knit-below increase centered in the same spot: work a knit-below increase flanked by two knit stitches, all drawn from a single point. The resulting eyelets are subtler and more refined than those created by the classic k-yo-k, while still forming a pretty decorative line. This double increase is symmetrical and quite decorative, and for this reason also a very good choice to use for the central spine in top-down triangle shawls.

Below you can find how to work this increase step by step, so get your materials and follow along!

Materials

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the double knit below increase step by step

Work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the double increase.
In this case, I want to work the increase in the center stitch of the swatch, where I’ve already worked some rows with increases.
First, work a knit stitch in the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
Don’t let the stitch slide off the needle yet!
For the middle stitch in the increase, we’re going to knit below the stitch just worked. Do you see the horizontal bar just below it? That’s where to insert your right-hand needle for this next step!
So, insert your needle, wrap the yarn around, and pull it through to make a knit stitch, one stitch below. Don’t let the original stitch slide off the needle yet!
Then work another knit stitch, this time into the original stitch as you did in step 2.
To complete the increase, slip the stitch worked off the needle.

The result

Below, you can see the result of working several rows of these increases. First shown from the right side, then from the wrong side of the fabric. Doesn’t it look pretty?

The result of working the double knit below increase, from the WS — From the RS

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stitch pattern – subtle rick-rack stitch

Subtle rick-rack stitch - a stitch pattern by La Visch Designs

You may have seen my tutorial on how to knit rick-rack rib. It’s a lovely stitch pattern, but personally, I wouldn’t want to knit it in all-over patterning. It’s just too time-consuming to work, in my opinion. Enter the subtle rick-rack stitch. This stitch pattern has similar zig-zag action happening, although much more subdued than in the rib version. The way it’s made, is also very different: Just a very clever way of combining left- and right-leaning decreases and increases! Please keep in mind, though, that I worked the above swatch in a worsted weight acrylic. When you knit this stitch pattern in a yarn that blocks out nicely, say a wool or cotton yarn, the lightly raised rick-rack line will be a bit more pronounced than it looks like here.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 6 stitches, and in a four-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. Also, I like to use the skp left-leaning decrease, but you can use another left-leaning decrease for a similar result.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
m1l – make 1 left: Increase by lifting the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the front with your left needle, then knit into the back of the loop
m1r – make 1 right: Increase by lifting the thread between the stitch just knit and the next one from the back with your left needle, then knit into the front of the loop
p – purl
skp – slip a stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over

Subtle rick-rack stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): *K2, k2tog, k2, m1r*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 3: *M1l, k2, skp, k2*; rep *–* to end.
Row 4: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length. When working in the round, just work the even-numbered rounds in knit.

Also, while this version of the stitch pattern is a 6-stitch repeat, it could easily be adjusted to an 8-stitch pr even a 10-stitch repeat. Just add in the extra stitches evenly on both sides of the decrease. A wider repeat will make the fanning out, visible in the stockinette in between the rick-rack lines, more pronounced.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Subtle rick-rack stitch - from the right side — Subtle rick-rack stitch from the RS

Subtle rick-rack stitch - from the wrong side — Subtle rick-rack stitch – from the WS

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tutorial – all about stitch markers

All about stitch markers - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In every knitter’s or crocheter’s notions pouch, there’s a small but very useful tool: The humble stitch marker. Whether the design is simple or elaborate, stitch markers are the highly practical tools of the trade. They help you keep track of your work and make it easier to follow pattern instructions accurately. In knitting, stitch markers are usually placed on the needle and move along as you work. In crochet, stitch markers are usually clipped into a stitch and remain in place until you move them. This usually happens when the marked stitch has been worked, and is moved up to the new stitch directly above it, in the new row or round.

Using stitch markers helps prevent mistakes and makes it easier to spot any issues early on. This last one I especially appreciate when working the more complex lace patterning in projects. In this post, I’ll show you the different types of stitch markers, and how to use them in both knitting and crochet. Let’s get started!

Closed stitch markers

Below, you can see a variation of closed stitch markers as found among my notions. They all have in common that they are placed on the knitting needle to mark a shaping point, a pattern repeat or the beginning (or end!) of a round. This type of stitch marker cannot be used in crochet.

Here you can read some of the ways to use this kind of stitch marker:

Marking the Beginning of a Round (BOR): In circular, seamless projects, the BOR marker is placed so that you know when you have completed a full round. It’s best to use a unique marker for the BOR so you don’t confuse it with others that you may have in your project for shaping, for example. In knitting, this marker is placed on the right needle after working the last stitch of the round, so basically in-between the last and first stitches. For this reason it’s also often called the “End of Round (EOR)” marker. I like to use my row counter, suspended from a piece of cotton for this.

Marking increases and decreases: When working projects such as garments or shawls, that require shaping, stitch markers are used to ensure these are performed in the correct place each time.

Separating pattern repeats: For simple pattern repeats or when working lace, cables or colourwork, I often place a marker at each repeat. This allows me to confidently work without the need for constant counting. Also, it enables me to easily spot mistakes in one small, manageable section at a time.

Reminders: At certain points in your knitting, you may need to work a single stitch differently, such as working short rows when you knit the turning stitches together. Use markers to remind you where these are and save time and possible mistakes.

A draw back I’ve noticed of this type of stitch marker, is that they tend to catch the yarn. This, in turn, makes the tension a bit looser in the area of the marker than in other places in the fabric. I’m a pretty loose knitter, so anything that makes the tension even more loose is not something I want.

This is the reason that I prefer the looped yarn variety of closed stitch marker: Just tie a bit of yarn into a loop, and you’re good to go! I match the weight of the yarn for the stitch marker with the yarn used in the project. Not only have these stitch markers enough give in the part that goes around the needle to prevent tension issues. The tails also make it possible to determine the correct place of the stitch marker, even if the loops of the knitting slide over the loop of the stitch marker. Also nice: If you lose one, you can easily make new stitch markers with just a small piece of waste yarn!

Locking or removable stitch markers

Removable stitch markers like the ones below, are generally used to clip onto a particular stitch. Because of this, they can be used in both knitting and crochet. If the needle size is small enough, you can also slide them onto a knitting needle. In that case, they work just like a closed stitch marker. The bulb pins shown in the lower right corner are a budget-friendly alternative. They offer a simple alternative for other ,usually more expensive versions of removable stitch markers.

Removable stitch markers - completely closing

There are various ways to use this kind of stitch marker. In crochet many uses are similar to those mentioned above for the closed stitch markers. For both knitting and crochet, you can think of the following:

Using a locking stitch marker to mark stitches for later: There are times when a pattern tells you to do something, but not right away. Think of things like the start of a round, or where increases or decreases will happen a few rows further on. In those cases, you can place a locking stitch marker right in the stitch itself. When you get to the relevant row, you can simply trace the stitches upward to find the exact spot. It’s a lovely way to keep knitting or crocheting without breaking your rhythm. Especially in larger projects or when working in a spiral, like with amigurumi.

Keeping track of rows without constant counting: If you find yourself losing track of rows or rounds (and honestly, who doesn’t?), locking stitch markers can really help. Just place one every 10 or 20 rows. That way, you always have a quick visual reference, and you don’t have to count everything over and over again.

Marking points for neat seaming: When working pieces separately that will be joined later, it can be tricky to line everything up just right. By placing locking markers at the points that need to match, you give yourself little guides to follow when seaming. It makes the finishing much easier and helps keep everything nice and tidy. This is exactly what you’re seeing below in this picture of a cardigan I made.

Flat lay view of the sleeves of a blue garment being seamed together using the crochet method. Bulb pins are being used to align the edges.

Catching and securing dropped stitches: A dropped stitch doesn’t have to be a disaster. Just catch the loop with a locking stitch marker to stop it from unraveling further. You can then fix it at your convenience, without worrying that things will get worse in the meantime. I had this happen once while blocking a lace shawl. A thread snapped, where I must have knit into the fluff of the kid silk. Anyway, I secured it with a bulb pin, and repaired the hole when the shawl came off the blocking mats.

Keeping your work safe when putting it down: This one is especially relevant for crochet. If you need to put your project aside or take it with you, it’s a good idea to secure the live stitch with a locking marker. It only takes a moment, and it helps make sure your work is exactly as you left it when you pick it up again!

The stitch markers you can see above, are a special variation of the locking stitch marker. They are often called spiral or split-ring stitch markers. These stitch markers are easy to recognize by their open, spiral-like shape. They’re not fully closed, with just a small overlapping gap. Because of this, they can be slipped in and out of stitches very quickly. This makes them particularly popular for crochet, where you often need to move markers around as you work. That said, they can also be quite useful in knitting, especially because they can be inserted, and removed very easily. I use them often when knitting a garter stitch tab for a new shawl!

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