news & releases - La Visch Designs

stitch pattern – ant track lace stitch

Ant track lace stitch - a stitch pattern by La Visch Designs

The Ant Track lace stitch creates a wandering line of eyelets that resembles the path of a tiny ant making its way across the fabric. The lace is lovely as all-over patterning, as shown here, in shawls, scarves, cowls, and other lightweight accessories. However, it also works as a 6-stitch decorative panel. In this example, I have worked the pattern in acrylic yarn, the swatch has not been blocked. The patterning will pop a lot more if you do block your project.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 2, and in an four-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
RS / WS – right side / wrong side
yo – yarn over
rep – repeat
st(s) – stitch(es)

Ant track lace stitch

Row 1 (RS): P2, *yo, k2tog, p2*; rep *–* to end. (6 sts)
Row 2 (WS): *K2, p2*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, k2.
Row 3: P2, *k2tog, yo, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 4: *K2, p2*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, k2.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The ant track lace stitch as seen from the right side

The ant track lace stitch as seen from the wrong side

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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helsingborg

Helsingborg is the perfect shawl to knit, if you want to start with an easy, mindless project in garter stitch. In contrast, the border contains lovely mosaic color work patterning to also add some spice!

The shawl is started with a garter tab, and the color work is done using the slip-stitch mosaic technique. This means, you will be handling only one strand of yarn at all times. The patterning is both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €7.25)

€

Difficulty level

Knit this triangle-shaped shawl from the top down in garter stitch, starting with a garter tab cast-on. The color work uses the slip-stitch mosaic technique. Stitches used include knit, purl, kfb, k2tog tbl, as well as slipping stitches.

This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size (easily adjusted) – finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 188 cm (74 inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 91 cm (35 ¾ inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of your Helsingborg shawl by using heavier or lighter weight yarn and/or working less (or more) repeats of the various sections. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Gauge: 12 sts / 24 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is not critical in this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn, and needles used.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size)

Yarn

Filcolana Pernilla (100% Wool; 175 m (191.4 yds) / 50 g) in the following colors:
C1: 525.0 meters (574.1 yards), 150 g in 821 Macaron
C2: 175 m (191.4 yds) / 50 g in 818 Fisherman Blue

Substitute any DK weight yarn in solid or tonal colors for a similar result.

Please note, approx. two-thirds of the C1 yarn was used for the body of the shawl, with the remainder reserved for the border. Therefore, for a shawl with similar proportions, aim to use a similar distribution.

Materials

Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl.
4 stitch markers to indicate the center and edge stitches
Yarn needle

Helsingborg – as seen from the front

Helsingborg – flat view

Helsingborg data page

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tutorial – jog-less garter stitch in the round: sl1 wyif method

Jog-less garter stitch in the round: sl1 wyif method - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Garter stitch is quite simple when worked flat: Just knit every row, turn your work, and the familiar ridges appear almost automatically. Working garter stitch in the round is a little different. Because knitting in the round follows a continuous spiral, the transition between a knit round and a purl round does not naturally line up. At the beginning of the round, this creates a visible jog. When repeated in the same place, these jogs can form an unwanted vertical seam through otherwise seamless knitting.

There are several ways to try and make the transition to a new round as jog-less as possible. In the previous tutorial in this mini-series, I showed you the lifted strand and p2tog method. In this tutorial, I’ll go into the “slip 1 with yarn in front” or “sl1 wyif” method. This method uses a slipped stitch with the yarn held in front to create a small horizontal strand of yarn at the beginning of the knit round. This strand helps disguise the abrupt change between the purl and knit sections of the fabric. The result is not completely invisible, but it is a straightforward and effective solution for many projects.

Let’s take a look at how it’s done!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: I knit the swatch with tiny circular needles, but transferred it to this is a pair of straights for some of the pictures. I picked these up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

A note before we start

Before we begin, garter stitch in the round is worked as follows:

Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: Purl all stitches.

In the swatch you see below, I’ve first worked 10 rounds in garter stitch without doing anything to smooth the transition. After that I knit 10 rounds using the lifted strand and p2tog method. Do you see how they differ at the end/beginning of the round point indicated by the stitch marker?

10 rows of garter stitch in the round without any smoothing, followed by 10 rows worked with the lifted strand & p2tog method — Garter stitch in the round without any smoothing, followed by the lifted strand and p2tog method

Knitting jog-less garter stitch in the round: sl1 wyif method step by step

The modification on making the transition jog-less with the sl1 wyif method is only worked at the beginning of every knit round. However, it´s not worked on the very first knit round.

I’ve knit a round, then purled across the entire next round until, and slipped the beginning-of-round marker to the right-hand needle.
Ready to start the steps to smooth the transition!
Move the working yarn to the front of the work….
…. then slip the first stitch purl-wise to the right-hand needle with the working yarn held to the front of the work.
Next, move the working yarn to the back of the work again, and continue knitting your round.
Work steps 2-4 for every 2 rounds that you work in garter stitch.

The result

The sl1 wyif method does not make the beginning of the round disappear completely. If you look closely, you may still be able to find the transition. It does, however, prevent the jog from appearing as a strong, sharply defined vertical seam. For a technique that requires only one slipped stitch per two rounds, that makes it a very useful option.

Below, you can see the swatch I worked. The bottom 5 ridges are showing how it looks when doing nothing to smooth the transition. The middle 5 ridges show the result of the lifted strand and p2tog method. The upper 5 ridges show the sl1 wyif method as detailed in this tutorial. Of these 3, I think I like the result with the lifted strand and p2tog method best!

The result of working jog-less garter stitch in the round with the sl1 wyif method

tutorial – jog-less garter stitch in the round: sl1 wyif method Read More »

stitch pattern – slip-stitch weave stitch

Slip-stitch weave stitch - a stitch pattern by La Visch Designs

The slip-stitch weave stitch creates a richly textured fabric with the appearance of interlaced strands. Although the finished result looks intricate, the pattern is knit in plain stockinette with a straightforward combination of slipped stitches and small cable crossings. The slipped stitches add depth and definition, while the alternating cable rows produce the woven effect that gives this stitch its name.

Due to the slipped stitches, the fabric is a bit more dense than regular stockinette stitch. This makes it a good choice for projects like scarves, cowls, blankets, etc. This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 1, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

C3L – Slip next stitch onto cable needle and place at the front of work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your left hand needle, then knit the stitch from the cable needle.
C3R – Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and place at the back of work, knit the next stitch, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
k – knit
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)
Sl 1 – slip 1
wyib – with the yarn held in the back of the work
wyif – with the yarn held in front of the work

Slip-stitch weave stitch instructions

Row 1 (RS): K1, *sl1 purl-wise wyib, k3*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (WS): *P3, sl1 purl-wise wyif*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, p1.

Row 3: K1, *C3L, k1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 4: Purl.

Row 5: K5, *sl1 purl-wise wyib, k3*; rep *-* to end.
Row 6: *P3, sl1 purl-wise wyif*; rep *-* to 5 sts before end, p5.

Row 7: K3, *C3R, k1*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, k2.
Row 8: Purl.

Repeat these 8 rows to desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The slip-stitch weave stitch from the RS

The slip-stitch weave stitch from the WS

stitch pattern – slip-stitch weave stitch Read More »

tutorial – jog-less garter stitch in the round: lifted strand & p2tog method

Jog-less garter stitch in the round: lifted strand & p2tog method - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Garter stitch is wonderfully squishy and reversible, but when worked in the round it comes with a small challenge. Because circular knitting is actually worked as a continuous spiral, the beginning and end of each round don’t meet at exactly the same height. This creates a visible “jog” where the knit and purl rounds join. Depending on your yarn and project, this jog may hardly be noticeable, or it may stand out quite clearly. Smooth yarns, solid colors and simple stitch patterns often make it more obvious.

There are several ways to try and make the transition to a new round as jog-less as possible. The lifted strand and p2tog method described in this tutorial, I found on the website of Susanna Winter (Talvi Knits). With this method, a strand of yarn between two stitches is lifted and worked together with the final stitch of the purl round. This creates a much smoother transition between rounds without changing your stitch count. Let’s take a look at how it’s done!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

A note before we start

Before we begin, garter stitch in the round is worked as follows:

Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: Purl all stitches.

In the swatch you see below, I’ve worked 10 rounds in garter stitch without doing anything to smooth the transition. Do you see how the garter stitches ridges on the left and right of the marker do not line up?

Garter stitch in the round without any smoothing

Knitting jog-less garter stitch in the round: lifted strand & p2tog method step by step

The modification on making the transition jog-less with the lifted strand and p2tog method is only worked at the very end of every purl round.

Knit a round, then purl across the entire round until only one stitch remains before the beginning-of-round marker.
Move the working yarn to the back of the work….
…. then slip the final stitch purl-wise to the right-hand needle with the working yarn held at the back of the work.
Do not move the beginning-of-round marker yet!
Locate the horizontal strand running between the slipped stitch and the first stitch of the next round. Insert the right-hand needle from front to back underneath this strand, in the same direction used when working a right-leaning lifted increase (M1R). Lift the strand onto the left-hand needle.
Slip the last stitch back onto the left-hand needle.
You should now have the lifted strand, and the slipped stitch next to each other on the left-hand needle.
Move the working yarn back to the front of the work again, and purl the lifted strand together with the slipped stitch (p2tog). Pulling the yarn just a little firmer than usual helps keep the join tidy without creating puckering.
Work steps 1-6 for every 2 rounds that you work in garter stitch.

The result

After several garter ridges have been worked, the beginning of the round blends much more smoothly into the surrounding fabric. Instead of a sharp step between rounds, the transition becomes gently angled and far less noticeable. Like many jog-less techniques, this method is a visual improvement rather than a completely invisible join. Below, you can see a comparison between doing nothing to smooth the transition (the bottom 5 ridges) and using the lifted strand & p2tog method (the upper 5 ridges).

tutorial – jog-less garter stitch in the round: lifted strand & p2tog method Read More »

london vibes

When I was visiting London, this lovely bright turquoise kid silk yarn caught my eye. What better way to show it off than with all-over lace? So, that’s what I did! Of course, this shawl can also be knit in fingering-weight yarn; different vibe, just as pretty!

London Vibes is knit in lace patterning from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter tab. The instructions are provided charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €7.25)

€

Difficulty level

This triangle-shaped shawl is knit from the top down, starting with a garter tab cast-on. Patterning in the body of the shawl is on both RS and WS rows. Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog, skp, yo, and double yo.

This pattern is suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

One size (easily adjusted) – finished dimensions of the sample shawl: Span width of 163 cm (64 ¼ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 77 cm (30 ¼ inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of the London Vibes shawl by using heavier or lighter weight yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the body, the border, or both. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Gauge: 11.4 sts / 24.7 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern, measured after blocking. Gauge is not critical in this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn, and needles used.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 7 pages (letter size)

Yarn

418 m (457 yds) / 50 g Rowan Kidsilk Haze (70% mohair, 30% silk; 209 m (229 yds) / 25 g) in the color 00722 “Turquoise”.

Substitute any mohair type yarn with a halo of a similar lace weight for a similar result.

Materials

Size 4.5 mm (US 7) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. If using fingering weight yarn with less halo, needles in size 4 mm (US 6) are suggested.
4 stitch markers to indicate the center and edge stitches
Stitch markers to indicate repeats in the lace patterning (optional)
Yarn needle

london vibes Read More »

stitch pattern – grape bobble stitch

Grape bobble stitch - a stitch pattern La Visch Designs

The Grape Bobble stitch pattern creates a fabric dotted with bobbles that resemble clusters of grapes. The raised texture stands out beautifully against a background of reverse stockinette. This makes this stitch an excellent choice for adding depth and visual interest to all kinds of knitting projects. Although the bobbles may look complex, they are straightforward to work once you understand the construction. In this stitch pattern the usual construction of the bobbles is used, consisting of turning the work, and purling back. You can, of course, also knit backwards over the bobble stitches instead. A tutorial on how to do that will be available soon on this website.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 10+3 stitches, in a ten-row repeat. Please note that no extra edge stitches have been added to the sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Lime.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
mb – make bobble: Work (k1,yo, k1, yo, k1) into the next stitch; turn, p5; turn, k5; pass the first, second, third, and fourth stitch (counted from the point of the needle) separately over the last stitch worked
p – purl

Grape bobble stitch instructions

Row 1 (RS): K2, *p4, mb, p4, k1*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1. (13 sts)
Row 2 (WS): K1, *(p1, k4) twice*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 3: K2, *p3, mb, p1, mb, p3, k1*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 4: K1, p1, *k3, p1, k1, p1, k3*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 5: K2, *p2, (mb, p1) twice, mb, p2, k1*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 6: K1, p1,* k2, (p1, k1) twice, p1, k2*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 7: K2, *(p4, k1) twice*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 8: K1, *(p1, k4) twice*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Rows 9 – 10: Rep rows 7-8.

Repeat rows 1-10 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Grape bobble stitch - from the right side — Grape bobble stitch – from the right side

Grape bobble stitch - from the wrong side — Grape bobble stitch – from the wrong side

stitch pattern – grape bobble stitch Read More »

tutorial – knitting backwards

Knitting backwards - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Knitting backwards, also known as reverse knitting or mirror knitting, is a useful technique that allows you to work stitches from left to right without turning your work. Instead of reaching the end of a row, turning the fabric, and working back across in the usual direction, you simply continue knitting in the opposite direction. This technique can be particularly useful when working short rows, entrelac, bobbles, or other stitch patterns that require frequent turning. Many knitters also use it to avoid purling, especially when working stockinette fabric. By alternating regular knitting with backwards knitting, it is possible to stay on the same side of the fabric throughout the project.

While knitting backwards may feel awkward at first, it becomes much easier with practice. The key is to remember that you are essentially performing the same actions as a knit stitch, but in reverse. Ok, lets get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Knitting backwards step by step

In this tutorial, I’m showing you how to work this technique in working a bobble. So much less hassle to knit backwards instead of turning your work for every bobble!

Hold your knitting as you normally would. The stitches to be worked are the 5 near the point on the right-hand needle, and the working yarn is positioned at the back of the work.
Unlike regular knitting, you will now create new stitches on the left-hand needle while working from left to right across the row.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the back leg of the first stitch on the right-hand needle. Enter the stitch from left to right.
This feels unusual at first because the left needle becomes the active working needle.
Using your right hand, wrap the working yarn from the back and over, then around the tip of the left-hand needle.
Don’t wrap the yarn too tight, this can make the next row difficult to work. Also, you can wrap the working yarn the other way around around the needle. However, this will result in a twisted stitch. To untwist it in the next row, work it through the back loop.
Using the tip of the right-hand needle, lift the old stitch over the yarn you wrapped around the needle, and drop it from the needle.
Take care not to pull the working yarn too tightly, to prevent tension issues.
Now pull the right-hand needle out of the stitch that is nearest to its tip.
The new loop remains on the left-hand needle while the old stitch has been released from the right-hand needle.
Repeat Steps 2 through 5 for each stitch, in this case for the 5 stitches that make up the bobble.
After a few repeats, the movement becomes more fluid. Focus on maintaining even tension rather than speed.

Tips for success

Knitting backwards is one of those techniques that can seem awkward initially but becomes surprisingly intuitive once mastered. It is not intended to replace regular knitting, but it can be a valuable addition to your knitting toolbox. Whenever a pattern requires constant turning or small sections worked back and forth, knitting backwards can save time and help maintain a smooth workflow. To make sure you get the most out of this technique:

Practice first on a small swatch before using the technique in a project.
Keep the stitches relaxed to avoid tight gauge, many knitters find their backwards knitting tension is tighter than their regular knitting at first.
Work slowly until the hand movements become familiar.
If your stitches appear twisted on the next row, check that the yarn is being wrapped over the needle towards you, then around to the back again.

tutorial – knitting backwards Read More »

stitch pattern – wavy lines

Wavy Lines - a stitch pattern by La Visch Designs

Some stitch patterns make their impact with intricate cables or elaborate lace. Others achieve something equally striking with just a few simple stitches arranged in a clever way. The wavy lines stitch falls firmly into the second category. Although the pattern may look complex, it’s actually quite simple once you’ve worked through it for a couple of rows. It’s really nothing more than a rib pattern with strategically placed drop-stitches. Whether worked as a sampler square, incorporated into an blanket, or used as an all-over pattern for shawls and accessories, wavy lines is an enjoyable stitch pattern with a stunning result.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 8 stitches, and in a twelve-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Marine Blue.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

drop stitch – remove the next stitch from the needle, and let it drop down until it reaches the yarn over beneath in the same column of stitches.
k – knit
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over

Wavy lines stitch instructions

Set up row (RS): *K1, p1, yo, p1, k2, p2, k1*; rep *-* to end.

Row 1 (WS): *P1, k2, p2, k3, p1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (RS): *K1, p3, k2, p2, k1*; rep *-* to end.
Rows 3-4: Rep rows 1-2 once.
Row 5: *P1, k2, p2, k3, p1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 6: *K1, p1, drop stitch, p1, k2, p1, yo, p1, k1*; rep *-* to end.

Row 7: *P1, k3, p2, k2, p1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 8: *K1, p2, k2, p3, k1*; rep *-* to end.
Rows 9-10: Rep rows 7-8 once.
Row 11: *P1, k3, p2, k2, p1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 12: *K1, p1, yo, p1, k2, p1, drop stitch, p1, k1*; rep *-* to end.

Repeat these 12 rows to desired length, ending with either a row 6 or 12. On your final row (6 or 12), omit the yarn overs.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Wavy Lines - from the RS — Wavy Lines – from the RS

Wavy Lines - from the WS — Wavy Lines – from the WS

stitch pattern – wavy lines Read More »

tutorial – the mechanism of drop-stitch patterning

The mechanism of drop-stitch patterning - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

One of the first things knitters learn is how to avoid dropping stitches. So it can feel a little strange when a pattern asks you to do exactly that! Fortunately, intentional drop stitches are much less intimidating than accidental ones. Although those are not the end of the world either, take a look here and here for tutorials. In fact, when used thoughtfully, intentionally dropped stitches create beautiful openwork effects that are difficult to achieve any other way. The secret lies in understanding what controls the dropped stitch and prevents it from running all the way down to the cast-on edge.

A dropped stitch is simply a stitch that is deliberately allowed to unravel. Normally, such a dropped stitch could ladder down all the way in your knitting. However, in drop-stitch patterning, the drop-stitch is paired with a yarn over worked several rows below. The yarn over creates an eyelet that acts as a stopping point. When releasing the stitch, it unravels only until it reaches that eyelet. In other words: The yarn over acts as a built-in safety stop. It determines exactly how far the stitch can run down.

When working a pattern that includes dropped stitches, always identify 1) the stitch that will eventually be dropped, and 2) the yarn over that will stop the unraveling. If these two elements line up vertically, everything will behave exactly as intended. Lets grab our materials, and try it out!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a drop stitch stitch step by step

I will share the directions for the stitch pattern used in this example in a separate post.

Knit in pattern until you reach the stitch designated as the drop stitch.
In this particular stitch pattern, the drop stitch is always the center stitch of a purl-three section.
Before continuing to the dropping part of working a drop-stitch, take a moment to look several rows below. You should see a yarn over directly beneath that stitch column. That yarn over is your stopping point.
Do you see it in the picture above?
If there indeed is a yarn over beneath the stitch column, simply slip the stitch off the needle. There is no need to knit it, purl it, or manipulate it further. Just let it go!
Next, allow the stitch to unravel.
Smooth yarns may run down almost by themselves. Yarns that are more “grabby”, may need some help; just tease those strands loose.
As the stitch reaches the yarn over, it can unravel no farther. The eyelet forms a stable anchor point, stopping the dropped column exactly where intended. What remains is a series of elongated loops stretching neatly between the current row and the yarn over below.
If the stitch does not stop at the expected point, check whether the yarn over was worked correctly.

And that´s all there is to it. Pretty neat, right?

The result - The mechanism of drop-stitch patterning

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