tutorial

tutorial – working a centered 5 to 1 decrease

Working a centered 5 to 1 decrease

A centered decrease, as shown in this tutorial, reduces 5 stitches down to 1 stitch in a symmetrical way. This decrease results in a strong vertical decrease line that doesn’t slant to either the left or the right. A useful decrease to have in your knitter’s toolkit! Read on to see how it’s worked.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the centered 5 to 1 decrease step by step

  1. To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the decrease.

    Step 1 of working a centered 5 to 1 decrease

  2. First, insert your right-hand needle into the first 3 stitches on the left-hand needle as if to knit.

    Step 2

  3. Next, slip these 3 stitches from the left-hand to the right-hand needle.

    Step 3 of working a centered 5 to 1 decrease

  4. Now, insert your right-hand needle into the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle as if to knit.

    Step 4 of working a centered 5 to 1 decrease

  5. Next, wrap the yarn around the needle …

    Step 5

  6. … and pull it through to work a k2tog. Slip the resulting stitch to the right-hand needle.

    Step 6

  7. Next, insert the left-hand needle into the 3 stitches that were slipped earlier, and pass them over the k2tog.

    Step 7 of working a centered 5 to 1 decrease

  8. The result after this last step can be seen below.

    After this, continue with your knitting as instructed in the pattern. Step 8 of working a centered 5 to 1 decrease

The result, when the row has been finished and a purl row has also been worked, is as follows. I think it’s pretty neat!

Centered 5 to 1 decrease
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tutorial – working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase

Working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase

Recently, it was pointed out to me, that in the Scalloped edge tutorial, I don’t show step by step how to work the increases needed. So, time for a new tutorial! With the (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase, 1 stitch is increased to 5 by working [k1, yo] twice in the same loop, followed by another k1. That said, if you’d like to increase 7 or even 9 stitches instead of 5, just work more repeats of [k1, yo] into the original stitch.

Let’s get our materials and get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 142 Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase step by step

  1. To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the increase.

    Step 1

  2. First, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.

    Step 2 of working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase

  3. Next, wrap the yarn around the needle …

    step 3

  4. … and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!

    step 4

  5. Now, wrap the yarn around the needle again.

    This is one of the yo’s in the increase.Step 5 of working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase

  6. To work the next set of (k1, yo), I find it helps to put my finger on the last yo loop already on the needle. This will keep it from sliding off.

    step 6

  7. Again, insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle as if to knit.

    step 7

  8. Next, wrap the yarn around the needle …

    Step 8 of working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase

  9. … and pull it through to work a k1. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!

    step 9

  10. Repeat steps 5 to 9 once more to create all the extra stitches needed.

    Step 10 of working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase

  11. After this, you can slide the original stitch off the left-hand needle to conclude the increase.

    Below, you can see the result of the (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase.The result of working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) increase

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tutorial – working a Russian picot bind-off

Russian picot bind-off

Recently, I showed you how to work a variation of a regular picot bind-off. However, sometimes you just want the stretch of a Russian bind-off, and combine it with the added pizzazz of some picots. That was exactly the scenario I encountered when I was working on my Framboos shawl. So, I tried out a way to combine the two in a Russian picot bind-off. In this tutorial, I’ll show you what I did.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the Russian picot bind-off step by step

  1. To start, knit 1 stitch.

    In this example, I’m using a swatch from a stitch pattern that will be on this website soon.Step 1

  2. Knit another stitch.

    Step 2 of working a Russian picot bind-off

  3. Slip both stitches from the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle.

    If you insert the left-hand needle as pictured, everything is already positioned correctly for the next step.Step 3

  4. Knit the stitches together through the back loop.

    Step 4

  5. Repeat steps 2-4 another 5 times.

    This is basically the regular Russian bind-off. You can adjust the number of times to make the distance between the picots larger or smaller. End this step by slipping the remaining stitch from the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle.Step 5 of working a Russian picot bind-off

  6. Cast-on 3 stitches using the knitted on cast-on.

    Step 6

  7. Knit 1 stitch.

    Step 7

  8. Next, knit another stitch…

    Step 8

  9. …and pass the stitch already on the right-hand needle over the one just worked.

    Step 9

  10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 twice more. This is what makes the picot.

    Step 10: making the picot

  11. Repeat steps 2-10 until all stitches have been bound off.

The result of the Russian picot bind-off looks like this:

The result of the Russian picot bind-off
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tutorial – working a picot bind-off

Working a picot bind-off

There are quite a few different ways to work a picot bind-off. That’s not even counting the variations coming from different distances between picots, and the sizing of the picots. In this tutorial, I’ll show you a variation of the picot bind-off that consists of binding of stitches the traditional way, combined with strategically cast-on stitches. Also, it can, of course, be used to bind-off a project. But the picot bind-off can also be worked on picked-up stitches or on the stitches from a provisional cast-on. The sky is the limit!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 133 Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the picot bind-off step by step

  1. Take your project when you’re ready to start your bind-off. You can start as soon as the last row of your work has been knit, and after your work has been turned when working flat back and forth.

    In this example, I’m using a swatch from a previous tutorial.Step 1

  2. To start, knit 2 stitches.

    Step 2 of the picot bind-off

  3. Insert the left-hand needle into the stitch first worked…

    Step 3

  4. … and lift it over the second stitch.

    You have now bound-off 1 stitch.Step 4

  5. Knit 1 stitch and repeat steps 3 and 4 to bind-off another stitch.

    Step 5 of working a picot bind-off

  6. Next, cast-on 2 stitches using the knitted-on cast-on.

    To do so, insert your needle into the stitch, wrap the yarn around it and pull it through the stitch. Then, instead of slipping the original stitch off the needle as you’d do when working a knit stitch, slip the new loop onto the left-hand needle to create a new stitch. Repeat once to get 2 new stitches.Step 7

  7. To finish the first picot, work step 5 a total of 4 times.

    Step 8

  8. Continue working steps 6 and 7 until your work has been completely bound-off.

    The result of the picot bind-off

When viewed from the back, it looks like this:

The result of the picot bind-off, viewed from the back
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tutorial – knitwear examined: a Missoni tee

A closeup of the top of a mannequin, it's wearing a Missoni tee in yellows.

When talking about knitwear, at a certain point Missoni is bound to be named. Missoni is an Italian brand and fashion house, famous for its colorful zigzag patterns and vibrant floral prints. Due to this, many of their pieces have a very exuberant seventies aesthetic. According to Wikipedia, the company was founded in 1953, when Ottavio and Rosita Missoni set up a small knitwear workshop in Gallarate, Italy. They presented their first collection under the Missoni label in Milan in 1958. According to this website, Missoni revolutionized knitwear by introducing slinky sweaters and crochet tracksuits. Originally using lines, the Missoni family discovered a way to make the emblematic chevron pattern by using Raschel knitting machines. The new technique allowed the fashion house to use knits to create any shape of garment, allowing them to cut and sew material without loosening the threads.

As luck would have it, I have a Missoni knitwear tee. It’s a vintage one that my mother used to have, and at a certain point gifted to me. I have been wearing it a lot the last couple of years. So let’s take a look at it!

In the below pictures, I have put the tee on my mannequin. It has a simple round neck as well as the famous chevron pattern in multiple colors of yellow, green and lilac. A design aspect that jumps out to me, is that the fabric of the sleeves is positioned in such a way that the larger chevron is centered on the top of both sleeves.

A closer look

the neck of the tee

This tee is an Italian size 48, this is similar to an EU 40-42 and US 12.

The neckband looks like a folded hem, covering the edge where the fabric appears to be cut. On the inside of the garment, the fabric of the side seams is serged. So, it’s reasonable to assume that underneath the folded hem, there is also a serged edge to prevent the fabric from unraveling.

Again, the patterning is centered relative to the neck opening and body of the tee.

label of the tee

The yarn used in this garment is very thin. As a hand knitter, I would classify this as lace weight. That said, commercial knitwear is often in much thinner yarn than hand knit ones. The yarn composition consists of 65% linen, 20% rayon, and 15% nylon.

The color runs in the yarn are of medium length, and change abruptly from one color to the next.

The sleeves are set-in, again with serged edges on the inside. In this picture, you can see very well how the centering of the pattern on the top of the sleeve results in a larger “point”.

And last, but not least: the patterning itself. I have not charted it out, but the repeat seems to consist of something like:

K7, CDD, k7, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, skp, yo, k1, skp, yo, k1, yo.

The WS rows are alternating in knit and purl. So, I think we’re looking at a 4-row repeat.

If you test this out, I’m looking forward to hearing whether the above indeed matches the patterning in my tee.

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tutorial – replacing the toe of a hand-knit sock

Replacing the worn-down toe of a hand-knit sock

My youngest is a big fan of wearing hand knit socks. To make sure he gets enough wear out of a pair before growing out of them, I make him tube socks. The pattern I use is usually the No-Heel Spiral Socks by La Maison Rililie. Anyway, he wears these socks a lot, and that means they also get a lot of wear. With the sock pictured, a hole developed in the lilac toe section. On further inspection, it became clear that the whole lilac toe was thin all over, but that the rest of the sock was still good for a lot of wearing. So, time to learn how to go about replacing the worn-down toe of a hand-knit sock!

In this post, I show you how I go about it. There are probably many more ways to tackle this, this is just the one that I used here.

Materials used

Yarn: New sock yarn to work the new toe.

Tools: A pair of circular needles in size 2 mm (US 00) and a small circular in the same size.

Replacing the toe, step by step

I determined that all the lilac was bad, but that the pink variegated yarn was still good.

  1. To start, I snipped some of the lilac yarn to free up the stitches in the pink and to put those on a circular needle.

    This sock was originally knit toe-up, but the replacement toe will be knit the other way around. Because of this difference in knitting direction, I can’t unravel the lilac yarn easily. Instead, I have to tease it loose stitch by stitch with the smaller needle. This is not a problem, because it greatly reduces the risk of dropped stitches and running down stitches.Picking up stitches

  2. Tease all the pink stitches loose and put them on the needle.

    When this is done, you have a loose, worn-out toe and a project ready for knitting.A loose toe

  3. Attach your new yarn and work the new toe.

    In this picture, I’m ready to join the new yarn.ready to attach new yarn

The result

The result of replacing the worn-down toe of a hand-knit sock: A sock with a new toe, ready for some more wearing!

The result of replacing a worn-out toe
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tutorial – knitting jogless stripes in the round

Knitting jogless stripes in the round

When working knitting in the round, you’re actually working in a spiral. This means, that when knitting stripes, you get a little “jog” when switching from the one to the other color. Of course, there are also many ways to help counteract this effect. Some methods only work well with very wide stripes. However, the one I’ll be showing here, also works well with narrow stripes.

Materials used

Yarn: Scheepjes Sunkissed, a fingering weight 100% cotton yarn (170 meters / 50 grams). Pictured here in the colors 7 Pistachio Ice and 6 Oceanside.

Needles: * KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 3 mm (US 2 1/2) size with a cable length of 60 cm (24 inches).

Knitting jogless stripes in the round step by step

  1. To start, finish your round with the old color, but do not yet move the end-of-round stitch marker to the other needle.

    Step 1 of knitting jogless stripes

  2. Next, place the last worked stitch back on to the left-hand needle.

    Step 2

  3. Now take the other color yarn and knit the stitch you just placed back onto the left-hand needle.

  4. With the new color, continue working the round until you’re one stitch before the end-of-round.

  5. Insert the right-hand needle in the stitch below the one near the tip of the left-hand needle and place it back on the needle.

    Step 5 of knitting jogless stripes

  6. Make sure to place the stitch in the “old color” in front of the one in the “new color”

    This is what covers the jog!step 6

  7. Finally, knit both loops together.

    And that’s it!The last and final step of working jogless stripes

Considering that I’m knitting this tee with a 100% cotton yarn at a relatively loose gauge, I find the end result to be amazingly jogless indeed. I mean, it’s not absolutely invisible, but still pretty hard to detect!

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tutorial – raising the back neck of circular yoke sweaters

tutorial - raising the back neck of circular yoke sweaters

Circular yoke sweaters and tees are pretty popular. No wonder, because they are a great canvas for colorwork or lace. However, some shaping for raising the back neck is really necessary to make it sit right. Without any shaping, chances are that when it sits right at the back, it sits too high in the front, giving that undesired choking feeling. Likewise, if it sits well in the front, it will probably sit too low in the back. And no, this isn’t something that some rigorous blocking will fix.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you first what exactly the problem is. And, of course, also how to fix it.

The problem

As you can see in the below picture, the main issue is that the human torso is not symmetrical back to front. The neckline is angled, which means that to arrive at the same level, there is more fabric length needed in the back than at the front. And completely circular yokes (as well as raglan sweaters) without any added back neck shaping are symmetrical and don’t have this extra length built in.

As visualized in the below picture, you may start out with the situation on the right. However, as the day goes by, the sweater will want to return to its base shape and the neckline in the front will creep up as pictured on the left.

The solution, of course, is to add shaping to give the yoke the extra fabric it needs in the back. In ready-made garments, you also see a difference in the depth of the yoke in the back vs the front of the garment. That difference is called the “front neck drop”, which is in essence the same as raising the back neck by a certain distance. They both refer to a difference in vertical distance to create a better fit in your garment at the neck.

Raising the back neck: How?

The usual solution is to use short rows to add extra length over a certain number of the back stitches. These can be added close to the neckline, above any yoke patterning, below the yoke patterning to lengthen the back or a combination of these two. The short rows themselves can be of the wrap & turn kind, German short rows, or any other type of short row you prefer.

But this is not my preferred way….

Instead, I prefer to work back and forth over the back stitches only to lengthen that part. I do this directly before dividing the stitches for the body and sleeves. Let me you show what I mean:

This is my Jade Clover design when it was still in progress. This is a really easy way to raise the back neck, because no short row calculations are needed. Just look up in the pattern how many stitches you have for the back of your garment. Next, work those back and forth for a bit. This is a very easy way to include back neck shaping in patterns that don’t have it. Or, to raise it a bit further than the pattern describes. I know I have done so occasionally. For example, when only a few short rows were included, and the sweater still looked a bit choky on the models.

Below is my Shoreham-by-Sea tee pictured. You can see how that bit of knitting looks after the stitches are divided and a bit of the body has been worked.

What about the sleeves?

As you can see, there is now a vertical section between the held stitches and the stitches that were cast on for the underarm. And yes, this does mean that along that edge, stitches will also have to be picked up and knit for the sleeves. In my patterns where this technique is used, I have taken this into account when calculating all stitches and decrease rows for the sleeves. Take a look at the picture below to see how it looks when the garment was all done:

Back of sleeve detail

In sweaters where you add this yourself, you will start out with more sleeve stitches than the pattern describes. It may mean that you have some welcome extra ease in the upper arm. In that case, just follow the pattern for a larger size that has the same approx. number of sleeve stitches. If you want narrower sleeves, you may need to take an extra look at the number of decrease rounds and the number of plain rounds between them.

On a final note, I have not yet tried this technique with raglan garments. However, I strongly suspect it will work just as nicely there as it does with circular yoke sweaters. When I do try it, I will report back!

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tutorial – two-stitch buttonhole in 2×2 rib

Two-stitch buttonhole in 2x2 rib

Knitting neat buttonholes can be a challenge, especially if you need the bigger sized ones. They often tend to sag or stretch at the edges. Fortunately, I recently came across this lovely technique to make a two-stitch buttonhole, right in the purl portion of (k2, p2) rib patterning. This method may seem a tad involved, but trust me, the result is really worth it!

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to work buttonholes in an 8 st repeat, with a buttonhole over the 2 stitches in every other purl section of the rib patterning.

Materials used

Yarn: Beiroa, an aran weight yarn from Retrosaria Pomar; a 100% Portuguese wool yarn, manufactured in Portugal, exclusively from the wool of free grazing Bordaleira Serra da Estrela sheep.

Knitting needles: A pair of Addi circular needles in size 4.5 mm (US7).

Knitting two-stitch buttonholes in 2×2 rib, step by step

This technique is worked over various rows. In a pattern (like the one for the cardigan-in-progress used in this tutorial), you can expect instructions like these:

Buttonhole row 1 (RS): *K1, kfb, (p1, psso) twice, sl st back to left needle, k2tog, k1, p2; rep from *.
Buttonhole row 2 (WS): *K2, p2, you have then reached the first bound off st, m1bl, p2; rep from *.
Buttonhole row 3 (RS): *K2, m1rp, p1, k2, p2; rep from *.

Let’s get started!

  1. First, work to the 2 knit stitches just before the purl stitches where you want to place your buttonhole.

    Step 1

  2. Knit 1 stitch.

    Step 2 of knitting a two-stitch button hole

  3. In this step, work a kfb increase in the next stitch.

    Step 3

  4. Now purl the next stitch on the needle….

    step 4

  5. … insert the tip of your left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle ….

    step 5

  6. … and pass it over the purl stitch.

    Step 6 of knitting a two-stitch buttonhole

  7. Repeat steps 4 to 6 once.

    Step 7

  8. Next, slide the first stitch that’s on the right-hand needle back to your left-hand needle.

    Step 8

  9. Next, knit the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle together (k2tog), decrease the extra stitch away.

    Step 9

  10. To finish the last few stitches of the repeat, work k1, p2 over the 3 next stitches.

    Now you can repeat these steps until you have the correct number of buttonholes, and then continue with the button band until you’ve reached the end of the row. It can be useful to use stitch markers around the buttonhole repeats, to make it easier to find your place on the next row.Step 10

  11. Buttonhole row 2: Work the button band on the WS until you’ve reached your marker. Then work k2, p2 over the next 4 stitches.

    You have then reached the first bound off st.making a two-stitch buttonhole

  12. Now work a m1bl increase.

    Step 12

  13. Next, purl 2 stitches to finish the buttonhole repeat on the WS.

    Again, continue and repeat as needed to the end of the row.Step 13

  14. Buttonhole row 3: Work to the start of the buttonhole repeat and work k2 over the first 2 stitches.

    making a two-stitch buttonhole

  15. As you can see in the result of the last step, we’ve now reached the newly cast-on stitch. To make sure the buttonhole edge is nice and tight, we’ve not cast on 2. But, of course, we do need two stitches in theta purl section. So, to remedy that, we’ll be using the extra slack in the loose thread of yarn to make that extra stitch. To do so, work a m1pr: a right leaning m1 stitch, worked purl-wise.

    Next step

  16. To finish the buttonhole, work a p1 in next stitch, followed by k2.

    last step

The result

Below, you can see the result of working this two-stitch buttonhole. Really neat, right?!

The result of a two-stitch buttonhole in 2x2 rib
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tutorial – weaving in ends as you go (end of a color)

Weaving in ends as you go - end of a color

Weaving in ends is a thing that just happens in projects. I mean, every ball of yarn has a beginning and an end, and when it’s through when the project is not, a new one has to be attached. When working in a solid color, depending on the type of yarn, the Russian join, braided join or the felted join may be just what you’re looking for. However, if there are a lot of joins, because you’re, for example, working wide stripes in different colors, these usually are not the best option.

In this tutorial, I want to focus on how to deal with the yarn end of the old color, once a new yarn in a new color has been joined. For this method, you don’t need to tie knots, or even use a tapestry needle. And you can work it on the go, so that when you’re finished with the project, you’re also already finished with weaving in the ends. The downside is that this method is best to use in combination with feltable fibers. In other words: yarns that are somewhat “grabby” like wool and alpaca. Worked in ends with smoother yarns like silk and cotton may become undone.

Materials used

Yarn: Rauma Finull a sportweight wool yarn from Norway. It has a crisp hand and works well for stranded color designs. The yarn also softens up with washing.

Knitting needles: A pair of Addi circular needles in size 4 mm (US6).

Weaving in ends as you go, step by step

Let’s get started!

  1. In the below picture, the new yarn has been carried along from the previous section in that color, using the technique described here.

    Please note, that of the old color a yarn tail of approx. 10 cm (4 inches) has been left.step 1

  2. Next, insert your needle into the next stitch as if to knit.

    Step 2 of weaving in ends as you go

  3. In this step, take the bit of yarn tail and wrap it around the working yarn. It does not matter which way around you wrap, just do it consistently every time.

    After this, work the rest of the stitch as usual.step 3

  4. Now work a stitch as usual according to your pattern. In this case, that’s a knit stitch.

  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until no more length of yarn tail remains.

The result

Below, you can see the result of weaving in the ends as you go, when viewed from both the right, and the wrong side of the fabric. Really neat, right?!

The result of weaving in ends as you go
Result from the RS
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