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tutorial: knitting in the round – travelling loop method

In earlier posts I already told you about choosing circular needles that fit your style. “Regular” knitting in the round has also been discussed in this post. In this post, I want to talk about knitting in the round using the travelling loop method.

Why is this actually called travelling loop?

That is because with this method you use a circular knitting needle with a cable that is way too long for the project. During knitting, the excess length of the cable forming a loop will move along from the right-hand needle all the way around to the left-hand needle. The loop “travels” as it were!

Knitting with the travelling loop method works very well if two prerequisites are met:

Firstly, it is of importance that you use a circular needle with a cable too large for your project. If your project has a circumference of 50 cm / 20 inches, then circs with a length of 80 cm / 32 inches or longer would work fine with this method. For this same project circs with a length of 60 cm / 16 inches would not work, because the excess length of cable is too small to form the loop.

Secondly, make sure that the diameter of your project is not too small! Socks and sleeves will usually be too small to use this method because the length of the needle itself will be a problem. A knitted in the round cowl or (children) sweater will be fine though most of the time.

Knitting travelling loop step by step

In this example, I’m using 4 mm / 80 cm circular needles as well as a stitch marker to indicate the start and end of rounds.

1. Cast on the number of stitches as required for your project. In this example I have cast on stitches by knitting them on, you can, of course, use your preferred method or the one specified in your pattern.

2. Move the cast on stitches over your needle in such a way that the first CO stitch is on your left-hand needle. You can recognize this stitch by the loose tail. Make sure not to twist your work, if that is what is desired for your pattern.

3. When you are about to close the work in the round, this is how everything looks: The needle with the beginning of your CO (with the yarn tail) at the side of the left-hand needle, the thread leading to your ball of wool coming from the last CO stitch at the back. The right-hand needle has a long length of the unused cable. Now it is also time to place your “end of round” stitch marker on the right-hand needle.

4. Insert your right-hand needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle and knit it. There will be tension on the yarn that connects the first and last stitch of the CO. Because of this, it can help to hold the cable close to the needle with your hand.

5. Once you have knitted part of the round, you will see the loop of excess cable travelling along.

6. At a certain point when knitting with a travelling loop, it will become possible to move all remaining stitches of the round up to the left-hand needle. Do this, to lessen the tension on the yarn that connects the first and last stitch of the CO.

7. At the end of the round, you will have a large piece of unused cable near the left-hand needle. Pull the circular needle through your work in such a way, that all stitches are ready to knit on the left-hand needle. The right-hand needle has the excess cable. Put the stitch marker over to the other needle and knit. You can tighten up the somewhat loose connection between the end and start of each round. To do so, pull the yarn tight with the second stitch of each new round. Don’t worry about the sloppy looking join, this will fix itself.

8. With each round making sure to pull the yarn tight with every second stitch of the round only. After knitting several rounds, it will look like this. As you can see everything has redistributed nicely and it does not look sloppy anymore!

Stay tuned for the next blog in the series of knitting in the round using circular needles!

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tutorial: knitting in the round with circular needles

Personally, I find knitting in the round with circular needles to be very relaxing. It goes round and round and round; very zen! This is what also made it so nice to work on my Zeeglas Cowl, pictured below. In this post I will tell and show you how knitting in the round works best, using circular needles (or circs for short).

How does knitting in the round using circs work?

Knitting in the round this way works best when using a needle with a cable length that matches the circumference of your project. It is better to use a needle that is a tad too short, than one too large. Knitting is easy to compress a bit, but stretching it out can get ugly. Also, this makes for a less than optimal knitting experience: it is hard to move along stitches that are stretched tight over your needle and cable.

For a cowl regular circular needles with a cable length of 60 cm (24 inches) is usually fine. For knitting socks this way there are even special tiny circs with extra short needles and a cable of a mere 10 cm (4 inches).

In this example, I will use a size 3 mm (US 2) circular needle with a cable length of 30 cm (12 inches). This specific needle has tips that are a tad shorter than regular circs. This needle by Addi is my favorite to knit baby hats from sock wool.

Knitting in the round with circular needles step by step

1. Cast on the number of stitches as required for your project plus 1. I will explain this extra stitch later on in this how-to. In this example I have cast on stitches by knitting them on. You can, of course, use your preferred method or the one specified in your pattern. In the picture below the strand of yarn at the bottom of the picture is where the CO was started. The strand at the top is the one that goes to the ball of yarn.

2. In patterns where the work has to be closed in the round, there often is a note to be careful not the twist the work. An exception to this is when you actually want a twist in the work. Take for example as with a Moebius type cowl. In the picture above in the spot indicated with the arrow, you can see there is a twist. I have to untwist it before proceeding!

3. Hold the needles in such a way that the last CO stitch is on your right-hand needle. You can recognize this stitch by the attached ball of yarn.

4. Slip this last CO stitch from your right-hand needle to the left-hand needle, then knit the first 2 stitches together. With this, you close the work in the round and at the same time, prevent a “gap” at the join. Also, the extra stitch cast on has been decreased away.

5. Place a stitch marker to indicate the start and end of the round and enjoy the knitting!

In another post on the topic of knitting in the round with circular needles, I also cover traveling loop. Posts on magic loop knitting and “two at a time” (“TAAT” for short) magic loop knitting will be done sometime in the future!

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choosing circular knitting needles

There are many types of projects where knitting in the round may be easier than knitting flat back and forth followed by sewing the pieces together. Think of socks, hats, sleeves of sweaters, round shawls etc. There are roughly two different ways to knit in the round: Double pointed needles (dpn’s) or circular needles (circs for short). Most people have a strict preference for one variant or the other.

My preference is for circulars; I once worked with dpn’s, but it felt like I was wrestling a hedgehog! For me using circs also saves the number of different knitting needles I need, because I use my circulars also to just knit back and forth.

Note that some knitting techniques are less suitable for knitting with circular needles. Think for example of those who are used to clamping the needle under the arm.

But how to go about choosing circular knitting needles?

In this post, I want to give you some background information about the different types of circulars. This because, as you can see in the picture above, there are really a lot of different types! Choosing circular knitting needles that are the right ones for you and your projects can, therefore, be a bit of a challenge. I will of course also talk about what to look for when you are going to try knitting with circular needles. Indeed, there is nothing as personal as a circular needle: If your knitting needle is not the right one for you, the experience can be less pleasant than knitting should be.

What to pay attention to

Material
Point
Connection to the cable
Material of the cable
Length of the cable

Below I will elaborate on each of these points as they are very much of importance when choosing circular knitting needles.

1. Material

Circular needles can be made from various materials. Commonly found are needles made from wood, bamboo, nickel plated, copper finish, plastic, and aluminum. Wood and bamboo have more drag when knitting than the other materials. Because of this, it is not my preference: For me personally, the smoother the better! The picture above shows two favorites from my personal collection: The silver with gold cable is a regular Addi circular needle, the copper-colored circular needle with the red cable is an Addi Lace needle. The latter has a special coating to make it a tad less smooth than regular Addi’s to make it easier to work with very thin yarn.

2. Point

In the picture above you can see the difference in points between the two types of circular needles very well. The lace needle is significantly sharper than the other. Which variant is preferred is again very personal and depends both on the type of project you want to knit, and your knitting style.

3. Connection to the cable

In the picture above you can see the difference between the connection of the more expensive Addi needles compared to the much cheaper Wibra circular needle: the connection on the Wibra needle is clearly less smooth. Moreover, I have no problem with Wibra needles: They are nice and pointy, have a good flexible cable and are excellent value for money.

However, depending on the type of project and your personal knitting style, the connection of the needle to the cable can be a problem. With very thin yarn, or if you knit very tight, the yarn can snag behind the edge, which can be very annoying when knitting.

4. Material of the cable

The various cables that you see in these photos are all made of different materials. As a result, there are also differences in how supple and flexible the cables are. This, in turn, has an effect on how easy and enjoyable different types of circular knitting can be done with them. I myself have not yet come across a cable too flexible for my tastes. More the opposite, with the cable being too stiff. This of course again depends on your own preferences.

Update December 13th, 2017: I have found circular needles with a (to my taste) too flexible cable, my 3.75 mm Kollage square needles. I like the needles themselves, but the cable is the limpest noodle I have ever encountered!

5. Length of the cable

Circular knitting needles come with different cable lengths: From very short 10 cm (4 inches) with extra short needles to knit socks, to cables with a length of 150 cm 60 inches) for very large projects. Most commonly, however, are cable lengths of 60, 80 and 100 cm (24, 32 and 40 inches). In my experience, the 80 cm (32 inches) length is sufficient for most needs.

When you have the need for multiple cable lengths, an interchangeable needle set with loose points and cables like the one below could be just the thing for you. I know this Addi Click set was for me the best investment in knitting tools in years!

In summary

If you have no experience with knitting in the round with circular needles and don’t know yet what you prefer: If possible, go and visit a friend who already has several and try them out before you invest yourself. Choosing circular knitting needles this way is a lot more budget friendly than buying them all!

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zeeglas cowl

Reminiscent of the soft colors of sea glass on a sunny beach, the Zeeglas Cowl warms the neck and shoulders like a soft cloud. The simple to work lace pattern is provided both charted and written out.

The various colors from the Adele’s Mohair Brushed Self Stripe Yarn used in the sample give this design added visual interest. When substituting yarns, choose either a sport weight brushed mohair type yarn or lace weight kid-silk type yarn held double for a similar result. This design is very well suited for stash busting odds and ends of mohair type yarn.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.50)

€

Difficulty level

The Zeeglas cowl is knit in the round. Stitches used include knit, purl, sl1, k2tog, psso and yo. The pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

S (L), shown in the larger size. Finished dimensions: 37 cm (14 ½ inches) wide and 55 (110) cm (21 ½ (43) inches) circumference, measured after blocking.

Pattern details

Written for a gauge of approx. 13.3 sts / 17.7 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over lace pattern, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical in this design.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 2 pages (A4 size)

Materials

112 (223) m (122 (244) yds) / 28 (55) g Adele’s Mohair Brushed Self Stripe Yarn [78% mohair, 13% wool, 9% nylon; 203 m (222 yds) / 50 g ball]. Substitute any sport weight brushed mohair type yarn, or lace weight kid-silk type yarn held double for a similar result.
5 mm (US 8) 60 cm (16 inches) circular needle. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
Yarn needle
1 “end-of-round” stitch marker
8 (17) regular stitch markers (optional)

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schelp shawl

The Schelp Shawl is a crescent shaped shawl design, inspired by the lovely shell shaped lace (“schelp” in Dutch) featured in the scalloped edge. Combined with the soft texture of the garter stitch body, the shawl will certainly keep you nice and warm in the winter and on other chilly days.

Work Schelp from the bottom up, starting with the border. Easy short row shaping creates the crescent shape. The lace pattern for the border is, of course, provided in both chart and written instructions.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

This pattern features short rows. Stitches used include knit, purl, skp and yo as well as slipping and wrapping stitches. Therefore, this pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

168 cm (66 inches) measured along the upper edge and a depth of 39 cm (15 1⁄4 inches).
Make this shawl larger or smaller by casting on more (or fewer) stitches. This will, of course, change the yarn requirements.

Pattern details

Written for a gauge of approx. 15.5 sts / 36 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) measured over garter stitch, gauge is however not critical in this design.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials

The sample shawl was knit using 6 skeins of Katia Merino 100% in color 42 [100% wool; 102 m (111 yds) per 50 g skein]. Substitute any DK or worsted weight yarn for a similar result, or substitute sport weight yarn for a smaller shawl.
Circular needle size 5 mm (US 8), 80 cm (32 inches). Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
Yarn needle
Cable needle
14 stitch markers (optional)

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ijskristal convertible cowl/scarf

A lovely scarf in a simple and elegant lace repeat pattern, easily transformed into a cowl. Worked flat, the IJskristal Convertible Cowl/Scarf is available in one size, that can easily be made wider or longer, or both. With both written and charted directions for the lace, this convertible scarf knits up like a dream. Pair it with the IJskristal Slouchy Hat for a lovely coordinating set.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.50)

€

Difficulty level

The IJskristal Convertible Cowl/Scarf is worked flat. Stitches used include knit, purl, skp, k2tog, yo and the centered double decrease sl2-k1-p2sso. The pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

One size – finished dimensions: 23 cm (9 inches) wide and 130 cm (51 inches) long, measured after blocking.

Pattern details

Worked flat
Written for a gauge of approx. 19 sts / 21 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over lace pattern, after blocking.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials

100 g / 320 m (350 yds) of DK weight alpaca yarn. The sample cowl/scarf features Ice Yarns Pure Alpaca (100% Alpaca; 160 m (175 yds) / 50 g). Substitute for an alpaca yarn of comparable weight for a similar result.
Needles in your preferred style in the following sizes (or to match gauge): Size 3.5 mm (US 4) and size 4.5 mm (US 7).
Yarn needle.
8 stitch markers.
6 size 21 mm (0.83 inch) buttons.

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zoel scarf

The Zoel Scarf is a very soft and delicate scarf knit using laceweight mohair yarn. It is a great pattern to learn some basics of lace knitting or to get familiar with using this type of yarn. Because of the simple two-row lace, this pattern not only lets the yarn shine but also makes for a wonderful portable project.

Pair it with the Zoel Hat to warm up a cold day in autumn or winter.

Pay what you want: (minimum €5.50)

€

Skills required

Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, k2tog and the double decrease sl1-k2tog-psso. The pattern is suitable for the beginning lace knitter.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

As written, the finished measurements of this scarf are 20 cm (7 ¾ inches) wide and 130 cm (51 ¼ inches) long.

The Zoel scarf can easily be made larger by using heavier yarn and/or working more repeats of the lace pattern. This will, of course, increase the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Worked flat
Written for gauge of approx. 16 sts / 20 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over lace pattern
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 2 pages (A4 size)

Materials

Yarn: 35 g / 192 m (209) yards) of Lana Grossa Lace Pearls [40% wool, 26% polyamide, 18% alpaca, 18% mohair, 8% glass; 137 m (149 yds) per 25 g skein]. Substitute any lace weight kid mohair/silk type yarn for a similar result.
Needles in your preferred style in size 4.5 mm (US 7)
Yarn needle
6 stitch markers

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zoel hat

The Zoel Hat is a very soft and delicate hat knit using lace weight mohair yarn. It is a great pattern to get familiar with using this type of yarn. Because of the simple two-row lace, this pattern not only lets the yarn shine but also makes for a wonderful portable project.

Pair it with the Zoel Scarf to warm up a cold day in autumn or winter.

Pay what you want: (minimum €4.90)

€

Skills required

This hat is knit in the round. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, k2tog and the double decrease sl1-k2tog-psso. The pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

The Zoel hat is available in 3 sizes: S (M, L). In the pictures, the M sized hat is worn with 7.5 cm (3 inches) of positive ease.
Finished size at brim: 55 (60, 65) cm, 21 1⁄2 (23 1⁄2, 25 1⁄2) inches.
Length from brim to crown: 20 cm, 7 3⁄4 inches.

Pattern details

Bottom-up
Written for gauge of approx. 14 sts / 24 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over lace pattern
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 2 pages (A4 size)

Materials

15 (16,17) g / 83 (89, 95) m (91 (98, 105) yards) of Lana Grossa Lace Pearls [40% wool, 26% polyamide, 18% alpaca, 18% mohair, 8% glass; 137 m (149 yds) per 25 g skein].
Substitute any lace weight kid mohair/silk type yarn for a similar result.
Needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round in the following sizes (or to match gauge): Size 4 mm (US #6) and size 4.5 mm (US #7)
Yarn needle
12 (13, 14) plain stitch markers
1 differently colored end-of-round stitch marker

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ijskristal slouchy hat

The IJskristal Slouchy Hat is a shapely tam which combines a simple and elegant lace repeat pattern with a wonderful amount of slouch.

Worked in the round from the bottom up, this pattern is available in two sizes. With both written and charted directions for the lace, this hat knits up like a dream. Pair it with the IJskristal Convertible Cowl/Scarf for a lovely coordinating set.

Pay what you want: (minimum €4.90)

€

Skills required

The IJskristal Slouchy Hat is worked in the round starting at the rolled edge brim. Stitches used include knit, skp, k2tog, yo, M1 and the centered double decrease sl2-k1-p2sso. The pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

To fit size: 51-53.5 (56-58.5) cm, 20-21 (22-23) inches.
Finished size at brim: 45 (49.5) cm, 17.75 (19.5) inches.
Length from brim to crown: 27.5 cm, 11 inches.

Pattern details

Bottom-up
Written for gauge of approx. 24 sts / 29 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
Digital PDF has 3 pages (A4 size)

Materials

50 (60) g / 160 (192) m (175 (210) yards of DK weight alpaca yarn. The sample hat features Ice Yarns Pure Alpaca (100% Alpaca; 160 m (175 yds) / 50 g). Substitute for an alpaca yarn of comparable weight for a similar result.
Needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round in the following sizes (or to match gauge): Size 3 mm (US #2 ½) and size 3.5 mm (US #4)
Yarn needle
17 (19) stitch markers
1 differently colored end-of-round stitch marker

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garter tab cast on tutorial

Many top-down shawl patterns start with a garter tab cast on. Why? Because it creates a lovely seamless start of any shawl. See for example the start of my Zomer Zilt shawl, pictured above, you almost can’t see where the cast on is! Yes, it can be a bit fiddly to work, especially when working with very skinny yarn. However, don’t let that deter you from knitting patterns that use this cast on: with the below step-by-step instructions and tips you are sure to master this technique.

In this example I used the garter tab instructions as used in Zomer Zilt:

Cast on 2 sts and knit 12 rows. Turn work 90 degrees, then pick up and knit 6 sts from the garter stitch ridges along the long edge. Pick up and knit 2 sts along the cast on edge. (10 sts).

The garter tab cast on step by step

1. Cast on two stitches using your preferred cast-on method. In this example, I’m using the knitted on cast-on.

2. Place markers in each of every CO stitch, this will make it easier to pick them up later on.

3. Work twelve rows in garter stitch (knit every row). This will give you 6 ridges to work into in the following steps. Then turn your work – still on the right-hand needle – 90 degrees clockwise.

4. Using your left-hand needle pick up one stitch in each of the garter ridges along the edge, for a total of 6 stitches. In the picture the purl bumps are picked up, but you could also pick up from the legs of the knit stitches instead. You now have 8 stitches on your right hand needle.

5. Turn your work 90 degrees clockwise again and pick up the two marked stitches along the cast-on edge. These stitches can be a tad hard to see, but because we marked them in step 2 this really isn’t an issue.

There you have it: a garter tab cast on! There are now 10 stitches: 2 stitches on either end which will become the garter edge stitches, and 6 stitches in the middle which will become the body of your shawl. You are now ready to start the rest of your pattern!

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