Bobbles are a lovely way to add texture to a knitting project. I’ve used them myself to add interest to an otherwise rather plain stockinette shawl body in my Moerbei shawl. They’re also rather popular as an extra design element on cabled sweaters. In the basis a bobble is nothing more than a single stitch that is increased to a collection of stitches (usually 3, 5, or 7 stitches), worked back and forth and then decreased back again to a single stitch. There are, however, many ways to go about this.
In this tutorial I will show you a 5-stitch version of a bobble. Read on for more details!
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
Knitting a bobble step by step
First, work in your piece of knitting to the point where you want to make the bobble.
Next, insert the right-hand needle into the center of the next stitch on the needle, and work a [k1, yo, k1, yo, k1] increase into that stitch.
Turn you work, and purl the 5 stitches you increased to.
Again turn you work, and knit the 5 stitches you increased to.
Now, pass the second stitch from the tip of the right-hand needle over the first one (the last stitch knitted).
Repeat step 5 another 3 times, until you only have 1 stitch left.
The result: a lovely 5-stitch bobble!
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In every knitter’s or crocheter’s notions pouch, there’s a small but very useful tool: The humble stitch marker. Whether the design is simple or elaborate, stitch markers are the highly practical tools of the trade. They help you keep track of your work and make it easier to follow pattern instructions accurately. In knitting, stitch markers are usually placed on the needle and move along as you work. In crochet, stitch markers are usually clipped into a stitch and remain in place until you move them. This usually happens when the marked stitch has been worked, and is moved up to the new stitch directly above it, in the new row or round.
Using stitch markers helps prevent mistakes and makes it easier to spot any issues early on. This last one I especially appreciate when working the more complex lace patterning in projects. In this post, I’ll show you the different types of stitch markers, and how to use them in both knitting and crochet. Let’s get started!
Closed stitch markers
Below, you can see a variation of closed stitch markers as found among my notions. They all have in common that they are placed on the knitting needle to mark a shaping point, a pattern repeat or the beginning (or end!) of a round. This type of stitch marker cannot be used in crochet.
Here you can read some of the ways to use this kind of stitch marker:
Marking the Beginning of a Round (BOR): In circular, seamless projects, the BOR marker is placed so that you know when you have completed a full round. It’s best to use a unique marker for the BOR so you don’t confuse it with others that you may have in your project for shaping, for example. In knitting, this marker is placed on the right needle after working the last stitch of the round, so basically in-between the last and first stitches. For this reason it’s also often called the “End of Round (EOR)” marker. I like to use my row counter, suspended from a piece of cotton for this.
Marking increases and decreases: When working projects such as garments or shawls, that require shaping, stitch markers are used to ensure these are performed in the correct place each time.
Separating pattern repeats: For simple pattern repeats or when working lace, cables or colourwork, I often place a marker at each repeat. This allows me to confidently work without the need for constant counting. Also, it enables me to easily spot mistakes in one small, manageable section at a time.
Reminders: At certain points in your knitting, you may need to work a single stitch differently, such as working short rows when you knit the turning stitches together. Use markers to remind you where these are and save time and possible mistakes.
A draw back I’ve noticed of this type of stitch marker, is that they tend to catch the yarn. This, in turn, makes the tension a bit looser in the area of the marker than in other places in the fabric. I’m a pretty loose knitter, so anything that makes the tension even more loose is not something I want.
This is the reason that I prefer the looped yarn variety of closed stitch marker: Just tie a bit of yarn into a loop, and you’re good to go! I match the weight of the yarn for the stitch marker with the yarn used in the project. Not only have these stitch markers enough give in the part that goes around the needle to prevent tension issues. The tails also make it possible to determine the correct place of the stitch marker, even if the loops of the knitting slide over the loop of the stitch marker. Also nice: If you lose one, you can easily make new stitch markers with just a small piece of waste yarn!
Locking or removable stitch markers
Removable stitch markers like the ones below, are generally used to clip onto a particular stitch. Because of this, they can be used in both knitting and crochet. If the needle size is small enough, you can also slide them onto a knitting needle. In that case, they work just like a closed stitch marker. The bulb pins shown in the lower right corner are a budget-friendly alternative. They offer a simple alternative for other ,usually more expensive versions of removable stitch markers.
There are various ways to use this kind of stitch marker. In crochet many uses are similar to those mentioned above for the closed stitch markers. For both knitting and crochet, you can think of the following:
Using a locking stitch marker to mark stitches for later: There are times when a pattern tells you to do something, but not right away. Think of things like the start of a round, or where increases or decreases will happen a few rows further on. In those cases, you can place a locking stitch marker right in the stitch itself. When you get to the relevant row, you can simply trace the stitches upward to find the exact spot. It’s a lovely way to keep knitting or crocheting without breaking your rhythm. Especially in larger projects or when working in a spiral, like with amigurumi.
Keeping track of rows without constant counting: If you find yourself losing track of rows or rounds (and honestly, who doesn’t?), locking stitch markers can really help. Just place one every 10 or 20 rows. That way, you always have a quick visual reference, and you don’t have to count everything over and over again.
Marking points for neat seaming: When working pieces separately that will be joined later, it can be tricky to line everything up just right. By placing locking markers at the points that need to match, you give yourself little guides to follow when seaming. It makes the finishing much easier and helps keep everything nice and tidy. This is exactly what you’re seeing below in this picture of a cardigan I made.
Catching and securing dropped stitches: A dropped stitch doesn’t have to be a disaster. Just catch the loop with a locking stitch marker to stop it from unraveling further. You can then fix it at your convenience, without worrying that things will get worse in the meantime. I had this happen once while blocking a lace shawl. A thread snapped, where I must have knit into the fluff of the kid silk. Anyway, I secured it with a bulb pin, and repaired the hole when the shawl came off the blocking mats.
Keeping your work safe when putting it down: This one is especially relevant for crochet. If you need to put your project aside or take it with you, it’s a good idea to secure the live stitch with a locking marker. It only takes a moment, and it helps make sure your work is exactly as you left it when you pick it up again!
The stitch markers you can see above, are a special variation of the locking stitch marker. They are often called spiral or split-ring stitch markers. These stitch markers are easy to recognize by their open, spiral-like shape. They’re not fully closed, with just a small overlapping gap. Because of this, they can be slipped in and out of stitches very quickly. This makes them particularly popular for crochet, where you often need to move markers around as you work. That said, they can also be quite useful in knitting, especially because they can be inserted, and removed very easily. I use them often when knitting a garter stitch tab for a new shawl!
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
Waveline is a delightfully whimsical shawl. Its allover mosaic color work patterning makes it a lovely layering piece with a lot of playful character. What’s not to like?!
The shawl is started with a garter tab. The color work is done using the slip-stitch mosaic technique, so you will be handling only one strand of yarn at all times. The patterning is both charted and written out.
Pay what you want: (minimum €7.25)
€
Difficulty level
This triangle-shaped shawl is knit from the top down, starting with a garter tab cast-on. The color work uses the slip-stitch mosaic technique. Stitches used include knit, purl, right- and left-leaning increases, k2tog tbl, as well as slipping stitches.
This pattern is therefore suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.
Sizes and finished measurements
One size (easily adjusted) – finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 188 cm (74 inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 68 cm (26 ¾ inches), measured after blocking.
Change the size of the Waveline shawl larger by using heavier or lighter weight yarn and/or working less (or more) repeats of the various sections. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.
Pattern details
Gauge: 14.6 sts / 32 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern, measured after blocking. Gauge is not critical in this design but should give you a fabric that you like with the yarn, and needles used.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 9 pages (letter size)
Yarn
Rico Design Superba Alpaca Luxury Socks (62% Wool, 23% Nylon, 15% Alpaca; 310 m (339 yds) / 100 g) in the following colors:
C1: 310 m (339 yds) / 100 g in 010 Teal C2: 310 m (339 yds) / 100 g in 007 Yellow
Substitute any sport weight yarn with a halo in solid or tonal colors for a similar result.
Materials
Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
A loop buttonhole is one of those small finishing details that can completely change how polished your project looks. Instead of working a buttonhole into the fabric itself, you create a simple loop right at the edge. It removes the need to plan out your buttonholes while still knitting or crocheting your project. In other words: It’s perfect for cardigans, cuffs, keyhole openings, or anywhere you want a flexible, decorative closure.
In this step-by-step photo tutorial, I show you how to create a neat, loop buttonhole along the edge of your work using a darning needle. The same effect could however also be achieved by crocheting into the loop. Ok, get your things, and follow along!
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime for the swatch, and Vintage Pink for the buttonhole loop.
Darning needle: Hiya Hiya Darn It Yarn Needle, or any other tapestry needle.
Working the loop buttonhole step by step
First, make sure you have your darning needle threaded with the yarn you want to use for the buttonhole loop.
The buttonhole loop can be attached to any side of a piece of knitting or crochet. In this tutorial, I will be attaching it to the bind-off edge of this swatch.
To start, I insert the darning needle from bottom to top through both loops of one of the stitches on the edge. Pull it through for a bit.
Next, insert the darning needle from top to bottom through both loops of another of the stitches on the edge.
I skipped 1 stitch, because I though that would give me a nice size for a buttonhole. You can leave less or more room between the 2 points as needed for the size of the buttons you intend to use.
Pull the yarn through until you have a loop of the desired size for your button.
The loop kept flipping up, so I used the darning needle to hold it down for the picture.
Repeat steps 2-4 a couple of times. This gives a sturdier buttonhole. The number of times, depends on the thickness of your yarn, as well as on the desired size of the loop.
I changed the orientation of the edge, because this proved to be easier to work.
Next, take your darning needle, and insert it from bottom to top into the loop.
Pull the yarn through almost, but not entirely all the way. Now take the darning needle and insert it top to bottom through the loop that your working yarn has formed.
Pull it all through, and tighten the knot you have created. Make sure to push it right next to the fabric of the piece you’re attaching the buttonhole to.
Repeat steps 6-8 as often as needed to completely cover the loops of yarn made in steps 2-5.
To finish, you can thread the yarn through the buttonhole loop, back to the start. Tie a knot, and weave in the ends.
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The yarn used for the body of this shawl brings candy canes to mind, or “zuurstokken”, as they’re called in Dutch, the kind you might buy at a fair. Knit sideways on the bias, the shawl forms a shallow, asymmetrical triangle that’s perfect for wearing as an elegant scarf. The pairing of garter stitch in a self-striping yarn with simple lace offers the best of both worlds: Soothing simplicity and delicate detail.
The pattern contains both fully written out and charted instructions for the lace.
Pay what you want: (minimum €7.25)
€
Difficulty level
The lace in this pattern is worked on both RS and WS rows. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, kfb, pfb, skp, k2tog, and p2tog.
This pattern is therefore suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.
Sizes and finished measurements
One size (easily adjusted) – finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 192 cm (75 ¾ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 70 cm (27 ½ inches), measured after blocking.
Make the Zuurstok shawl larger by adding more repeats of the garter stitch and/or by working more repeats in the lace section. This will, of course, increase the amount of yarn needed.
Pattern details
Gauge: 16 sts / 32 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical for this design.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size)
Yarn
Alize Superwash Artisan (75% Merino, 25% Nylon; 420 m (459 yds) / 100 g) in the following colors:
C1: 210 m (230 yds) / 50 g in color 9003 C2: 420 m (459 yds) / 100 g in color 44
Substitute any self-striping fingering weight yarn for C1 and any solid or tonal colored fingering weight yarn for C2 for a similar result.
Materials
Size 3.5 mm (US 4) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
Removable stitch marker to denote the RS of the shawl (optional)
Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the lace patterning (optional)
This bind-off is very similar to regular “binding of in pattern”, take a look at the tutorial for 1×1 rib that shows you the principal of it. The main difference with the stretchy yo bind-off, is that it adds a yarn over for every purl stitch of the ribbing. As such, it’s less stretchy than a bind-off that includes a yo after every stitch, but much more stretchy than a regular ribbing bind-off that doesn’t include one. I really like to use this one for ribbing on sleeve cuffs, the hems of sweaters etc. It really doesn’t matter if your piece is in regular 1×1 rib, are a twisted one using (k tbl, p1). It doesn’t flare out as much as, for example, the Russian bind-off does.
Let’s get started!
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
The stretchy yo bind-off for 1×1 rib step by step
In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off: K1, *yo, p1, then grab the 2nd and 3rd sts, and pass them both over the st just purled, k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into second stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the stitch just knit*; rep *–* to end, yo, p1, then grab the 2nd and 3rd sts, and pass them both over the st just purled. Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!
To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in [k1 tbl, p1] rib.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle….
…. then pass it over the stitch just knit.
Continue working steps 3-8, ending with a repeat of steps 3-6 for the last purl stitch in the rib (assuming you started with an even number of stitches!).
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.
The result
Do you see how lovely this bind-off follows the shape of the ribbing?
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
In this tutorial I show you how to work a second version of the yarn over bind-off for stockinette. Remember, the thing that all yarn over bind-off have in common, is that they all use an extra yo somewhere in the bind-off sequence to give the edge some extra stretch. Where they differ, is how that yo is treated within the bind-off repeat. The one I’m showing in this tutorial is one I really like, because it gives decent stretch without a lot of flare at the edge. Ok, grab your things!
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
The yarn over bind-off step by step
In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:
*K1, yo, k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into the first and second stitches on the right-hand needle, pass them over the third stitch*; repeat *-* to end.
Please note, that when I mentioned “first” or “second”, I mean the stitch that was knit first or second, not the location relative to the tip of the right-hand needle. Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!
To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off, and knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in stockinette stitch.
Next, work a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the first and second stitches on the right-hand needle, and pass them over the third (last knit) one.
Continue working steps 1-4 to the end.
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.
As you can see in the last picture above, this bind-off has barely any flare to it. When seen from the wrong side, the result looks like this:
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
The thing that all yarn over bind-off have in common, is that they all use an extra yo somewhere in the bind-off sequence to give the edge some extra stretch. Where they differ, is how that yo is treated within the bind-off repeat. The one I’m showing in this tutorial is not really the one I prefer, because it has significant flare at the edge. That said, it’s a good one to know. In a couple of weeks, I’ll share a different yarn over bind-off for stockinette with you. Let’s get started!
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Lime
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
The yarn over bind-off step by step
In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:
K1, *k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the second stitch, yo, grab the first st, and pass it over the yo*; repeat *-* to end.
Please note, that when I mentioned “first” or “second”, I mean the stitch that was knit first or second, not the location relative to the tip of the right-hand needle. Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!
To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off, and knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
In this case, I’m using a swatch in stockinette stitch.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle, and pass this stitch over the second one.
Next, work a yarn over by wrapping the yarn around the needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle, and pass it over the yarn over.
Continue working steps 2-5 for every stitch you encounter.
To bind-off the last stitch you end up with, just break your yarn, and pull it through.
As you can see in the last picture above, this bind-off has quite some flare to it. Reduce the amount of flare by repeating steps 1-5 instead of 2-5. However, this would also reduce the stretchiness. When seen from the wrong side, the result looks like this:
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
This is a lovely cable on a background of garter stitch, a good way to spruce up a project in garter stitch. Use it solo as pictured here, or make multiple cables. In this stitch pattern, 3/3 RC, and 3/3 LC cables are used to create the fishtail-effect. This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 17 + 3 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, no edge stitches were added.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
You will also need a cable needle in a similar or slightly smaller size as your knitting needles. Unless, of course, you’re going to work the cables without a cable needle.
3/3 LC (3/3 left-cross cable): Slip next 3 stitches to cable needle and place at front of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
3/3 RC (3/3 right-cross cable): Slip next 3 stitches to cable needle and place at back of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable on garter stitch instructions
Row 1 (right side): K3, *k6, p2, k9*; rep *–* to end. (20 sts) Row 2 (wrong side): *K6, p3, k2, p3*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, k3. Rows 3-6: Rep rows 1-2 twice more. Row 7: K3, *3/3 RC, p2, 3/3 LC, k3*; rep *-* to end. Row 8: *K6, p3, k2, p3*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, k3.
Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern.
Cable on garter stitch from the RSCable on garter stitch from the WS.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
In one of my new patterns, I used this stitch pattern from the Japanese knitting stitch bible. It consists of (k tbl, p2) rib, with strategically place wrapped stitches to create a lovely smocking effect, It was a bit of a struggle to determine exactly how to execute this stitch. So, I thought to make it into a step-by-step post. As the description says, you basically wrap your working yarn around the group of stitches described. Below, I’ll show you how to work the (k tbl, yo, skp, k tbl) wrapped twice stitch.
Let’s get started!
Materials used
Yarn: RMR Yarn Co. Zihuatanejo DK, a wonderful vibrant 100% Merino yarn, here in the color Casi Casi.
Knitting needles: Some Zing knitting needles, and yes I know I’m using a ridiculously small size for a DK weight yarn; I’m a VERY loose knitter…
I’m also using a cable needle in the same size as my main needles.
Working the (k tbl, yo, skp, k tbl) wrapped twice stitch step by step
To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the wrapped stitch.
First, insert the cable needle into the first stitch on the left-hand needle, and knit it through the back loop.
Next, wrap the working yarn around the cable needle, to form the yarn over.
Now work a skp decrease over the next 2 stitches on the left-hand needle, again using the cable needle as your right-hand needle.
In this picture, you can see how it looks after the decrease has been worked.
Next, insert the cable needle into the stitch on the left-hand needle, and knit it through the back loop.
With this, we have worked the group of stitches to be wrapped.
Now take your working yarn, and wrap it around the group of stitches on the cable needle in a counter-clockwise motion.
In other words, move the yarn to the front, from left to right, and then onwards around the back from right to left until it’s in its starting position.
Repeat step 6 once again for the second wrap.
To finish the stitch, slip each of the 4 stitches on the cable needle purl-wise to the right-hand knitting needle. At this point, you can tighten the wrapped yarn a bit if the wrap is a bit loose.
The result
In the picture below, you can see the (k tbl, yo, skp, k tbl) wrapped twice stitch, directly after I’ve slipped all the stitches from the cable needle to the right-hand needle. You can also see some of the other wrapped stitches I’ve already worked in this piece of knitting.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
