stitch pattern

stitch pattern – working a Vikkel braid in the round

Working a Vikkel braid in the round by La Visch Designs

A Vikkel braid, also known as an Estonian or lateral braid, is a decorative knitting technique used to create a horizontal braid-like texture across the fabric. It’s often used in traditional Estonian knitting, especially in mittens and cuffs, to add both structure and ornamentation. It can serve as a nice demarcation of the ribbing and the rest of the fabric. Its key feature, is that it creates a raised, twisted horizontal band that looks like a chain of stitches.

This braid is worked in a single round. It’s common to have a plain round above and below it to frame it nicely, and to prevent the purl stitches in the ribbing to distort the braid. Some folks advise dropping down a needle size when working the braid, because it can be a tad loose otherwise. In this how-to, I didn’t do that and found the tension to be ok. But, be warned, and try it out for yourself and adjust where needed.

In this article, I’m showing you how to do a Vikkel braid in the round, in a single color. In this post, you can see how to work it flat. The main difference between the in the round version and the flat version, is how it’s started and ended. When working a Vikkel braid in the round, it’s prettiest if the switch to a new round is jogless. There are, of course, many ways to go about it. The version shown here, is just the one that I like best. I’ll show how to braid a lateral braid in a contrasting color, sometime in the future.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a tiny circular needle by Addi in the size 4 mm (US 6), and a length of 25 cm (10 inches).

Working a Vikkel braid in the round step by step

A Vikkel braid can be worked over any number of stitches, after or just before ribbing. In this example, I’m using a swatch worked in the round, in plain stockinette.

  1. I’m going to work my Vikkel braid onto this swatch.

    Step 1 of working a Vikkel braid in the round

  2. Slip the last stitch of the previous round from the right-hand to the left-hand needle.

    Step 2 of working a Vikkel braid in the round

  3. Next, insert the right-hand needle through the back loop of the 2nd stitch.

    Step 3

  4. Wrap the yarn around….

    And yes, I know I wrapped the yarn in the picture around the needle not the correct way around. It still delivered knitting!Step 4 of working a Vikkel braid in the round

  5. …. and pull it through.

    Do not slip the stitch of the needle yet!Step 5

  6. Now, insert the needle into the first stitch as if to knit (because we’re going to knit it).

    Step 6

  7. Again, wrap the yarn around the needle….

    Step 7

  8. … and pull it through.

    Step 8 of working a Vikkel braid in the round

  9. Now you can slip the 2 stitches nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle off.

    Step 9 of working a Vikkel braid in the round

  10. Slip the stitch nearest to the tip of the right-hand needle, back to the left-hand needle.

    Step 10

  11. Repeat steps 3-10 until 1 stitch remains.

    This is how it looks when working the Vikkel braid across the round.Step 11 of working a Vikkel braid in the round

  12. Next, repeat steps 3-9 once more.

    Now it’s time to close the round in such a way that the Vikkel braid appears jogless.Step 12

  13. First, insert your right-hand knitting needle from bottom to top through both legs of the first “V” of the Vikkel braid.

    Step 13 of working a Vikkel braid in the round

  14. Then, lift both loops onto the needle as pictured:

    Step 14 of working a Vikkel braid in the round

  15. Now slip the stitch nearest to the tip of the right-hand needle, to the left-hand needle.

    Step 15

  16. To finish the round, pull both Vikkel-braid loops over the stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.

    Step 16

  17. Slip the stitch back to the right-hand needle, and you’re ready to continue your knitting project.

    Step 17

The result

In the below picture, you see the result, after I’ve inserted an end-of-round stitch marker, and worked a bit more than 1 round. Pretty jogless, if you ask me!

The result of working a Vikkel braid in the round
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stitch pattern – working a Vikkel or Estonian braid

Working a Vikkel braid by La Visch Designs

A Vikkel braid, also known as an Estonian or lateral braid, is a decorative knitting technique used to create a horizontal braid-like texture across the fabric. It’s often used in traditional Estonian knitting, especially in mittens and cuffs, to add both structure and ornamentation. It can serve as a nice demarcation of the ribbing and the rest of the fabric. Its key feature, is that it creates a raised, twisted horizontal band that looks like a chain of stitches.

The braid is worked in a single row. It’s common to have a plain row above and below it to frame it nicely, and to prevent the purl stitches in the ribbing to distort the braid. Some folks advise dropping down a needle size when working the braid, because it can be a tad loose otherwise. In this how-to, I didn’t do that and found the tension to be ok. But, be warned, and try it out for yourself and adjust where needed.

In this article, I’m showing you how to do a Vikkel braid worked flat in a single color. It is, however, also possible to work it in the round, and in a contrasting color. I’ll show those variations sometime in the future.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a Vikkel braid step by step

A Vikkel braid can be worked over any number of stitches, after or just before ribbing. In this example, I’m using a swatch in 2×2 rib.

  1. I’m going to work my Vikkel braid onto this swatch.

    Step 1 of working a Vikkel braid

  2. To prevent any distortion in the braid, I’m working another right side row in 2×2 rib, followed by a wrong side row in purl.

    That single row without patterning won’t be noticeable in the final result, but will prevent the braid from being wobbly.Step 2

  3. Cast-on a stitch, here I used the knitted-on cast-on, but the cable cast-on would also work.

    Step 3 of working a Vikkel braid

  4. Slip the newly cast-on stitch back to the left-hand needle.

    Step 4

  5. Next, insert the right-hand needle through the back loop of the 2nd stitch.

    Step 5 of working a Vikkel braid

  6. Wrap the yarn around….

    Step 6

  7. …. and pull it through.

    Do not slip the stitch of the needle yet!Step 7 of working a Vikkel braid

  8. Now, insert the needle into the first stitch as if to knit (because we’re going to knit it).

    Step 8

  9. Again, wrap the yarn around the needle….

    Step 9 of working a Vikkel braid

  10. … and pull it through.

    Step 10

  11. Now you can slip the 2 stitches nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle off.

    Step 11 of working a Vikkel braid

  12. Slip the stitch nearest to the tip of the right-hand needle, back to the left-hand needle.

    Step 12

  13. Repeat steps 5-12 until 1 stitch remains, then repeat steps 5-11 once more.

    This is how it looks by then. Pretty, right?!The finished Vikkel braid

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stitch pattern – ribbed heart stitch

The ribbed heart stitch - by La Visch Designs

The ribbed heart stitch pattern is a textured knitting pattern that looks like little stacked hearts, against a background of reverse stockinette stitch. It may look complicated to work, but it’s really not that hard. You create the effect by pulling up loops from the center of a stitch, a couple of rows below the one that you’re working. These loops are slipped a couple of rows, before they’re anchored by doing some regular left- and right leaning decreases. It’s a versatile stitch pattern that can be used in any place you’d used regular ribbing. However, because it’s so pretty, it’s lovely as all-over patterning for blankets, for example.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 5 stitches + 2, and in a four-row repeat. Please note that in this swatch, I’ve added 2 edge stitches on each side.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

Pulling up a loop
Pulling up a loop

Ribbed heart stitch instructions

Set-up row 1 (RS): P2, *k3, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Set-up row 2 (WS): K2, *p3, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Set-up rows 3-4: Rep set-up rows 1 and 2 once.

Row 1 (RS): P2, *pull up a loop through the knit st in the middle of the 3 knit sts, 4 rows down, k3, pull up another loop through the same st, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (WS): K2, *move the working yarn to the front of the work and sl1, p3, sl1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 3: P2, *skp, k1, k2tog, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 4: K2, *p3, k2*; rep *-* to end.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

Below you can see how this stitch pattern looks, first as seen from the right side, and then from the wrong side of the fabric.

Ribbed heart stitch from the RS
Ribbed heart stitch from the WS
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stitch pattern – the honeycomb cable stitch

Knitting the honeycomb cable stitch

With cable knitting, you usually work stitches in stockinette against a background of either garter stitch or reverse stockinette. The cables themselves are worked in stockinette, and once every few rows the order of those stitches on your knitting needle is changed. However, unlike most cable stitch patterns, the honeycomb cable does not use any background stitches. The pattern is purely cable crossings every few rows to create the all-over honeycomb effect.

Stitch patterns with cables can be very complex. In this stitch pattern, however, I show you a simple 2/2 RC, and a 2/2 LC cable. This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 8 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, I did not add any edge stitches to the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Marine Blue.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

You will also need a cable needle in a similar or slightly smaller size as your knitting needles. Unless, of course, you’re going to work the cables without a cable needle. The cables made in this stitch pattern are small enough to make that doable.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • 2/2 LC (2/2 left-cross cable): Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and place at front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
  • 2/2 RC (2/2 right-cross cable): Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and place at back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

Honeycomb cable stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): Knit. (8 sts)
Row 2 and all following wrong side rows: Purl.
Row 3: *2/2 RC, 2/2 LC*; rep *-* to end.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 7: *2/2 LC, 2/2 RC*; rep *-* to end.
Row 8: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern.
To adjust this stitch pattern for working in the round, simply replace all purl instructions with knit!

The honeycomb cable stitch chart
The honeycomb cable stitch from the right side
The honeycomb cable stitch from the right side.
The honeycomb cable stitch from the wrong side
The honeycomb cable stitch from the wrong side.
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stitch pattern – slip stitch rib

Slip stitch rib

The slip stitch rib stitch pattern is a textured knitting pattern that creates a beautifully subtle, somewhat stretchy fabric. It looks a lot like regular k1, p2 rib, but the knit stitch spans 2 rows instead of 1. It’s a versatile stitch pattern often used for garments, accessories, and home decor projects, as it offers a balance between structure and flexibility. Unlike regular rib, my swatch did have a tendency to roll a bit. It’s also less elastic than regular rib. That said, the slip stitch technique, combined with knit stitches, results in a pattern that is both simple to execute and visually interesting.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 3 stitches + 2, and in a two-row repeat. Please note that in this swatch, no edge stitches have been added.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

Slip stitch rib instructions

Set-up row: K2, *p1, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 1 (RS): *P2, slip the next st with yarn in back*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 2 (WS): K2, *p1, k2*; rep *-* to end.

Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern until desired length.

Below you can see how this stitch pattern looks, first as seen the from the right side, and then from the wrong side of the fabric.

Slip stitch rib - from the RS
Slip stitch rib - from the WS
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stitch pattern – bubble stitch

Bubble stitch - by La Visch Designs

The bubble stitch is a lovely way to add texture to your knitting. This pattern creates three-dimensional bubbles in the fabric, making it great to add extra interest to your projects. It’s a stitch pattern, that is known under many different names. You can also encounter it as the bubble wrap stitch, and the air bobble stitch. While the bubble stitch may look similar to the regular bobble stitch, it’s structured very differently. The bubble stitch creates a pattern of raised, rounded bubbles across the fabric, through a combination of knit and purl stitches and elongated stitches. The bobble stitch, on the other hand, involves creating a protruding, three-dimensional knot by working multiple stitches into one, and then decreasing back to a single stitch. 

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 3, and in a twelve-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

Bubble stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2 and all following wrong side rows: Purl.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 5: K3, *k4b, k3*; rep *-* to end.
Row 7: Knit.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 11: K1, *k4b, k3*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, k4b, k1.
Row 12: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern until desired length.

Please note that if you want to work this pattern in multiple colors, change colors after row 4 and 10.

Below you can see how this stitch pattern looks, first as seen the from the right side, and then from the wrong side of the fabric.

Bubble stitch from the RS
Bubble stitch from the WS
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stitch pattern – twisted twill stitch

Twisted twill stitch by La Visch Designs

The twisted twill stitch uses the “left twist stitch” to create the wavy lines visible in the swatch pictured. The result looks very similar to cables, but without actual cabling. As a matter of fact, this particular stitch pattern looks very similar to spiral stitch. However, instead of a traveling band of purl stitches, left twist stitches are used. One way or the other, it’s patterning with lovely texture, suitable for a wide range of projects.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 7 stitches + 2, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown. You will also need a cable needle.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • LT – left twist: Skip the next stitch on the left-hand needle, knit into the back loop of the second stitch, leaving the stitch on the needle. Next, bring the right-hand needle to the front of the left-hand needle and knit into the skipped stitch. Pull both loops off of the left needle to finish the stitch.
  • p – purl
  • rep – repeat
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Twisted twill stitch

Row 1 (right side): P2, *LT, k3, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (and all following wrong side rows): K2, *p5, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 3: P2, *k1, LT, k2, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 5: P2, *k2, LT, k1, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 7: P2, *k3, LT, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 8: K2, *p5, k2*; rep *-* to end.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The twisted twill stitch as seen from the right side.
Twisted twill stitch as seen from the right side
The twisted twill stitch as seen from the wrong side.
Twisted twill stitch as seen from the wrong side
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stitch pattern – corrugated rib

Corrugated rib by La Visch Designs

Corrugated rib is a way to work ribbing in 2 colors. Similar to working stranded knitting, the 2 colors are alternated while working a row. Because of this, corrugated rib is not a stretchy rib, and therefore not suitable for those projects where a lot of elasticity is needed. It is, however, very decorative. Corrugated rib, like any other type of ribbing, can be worked on a wide variety of stitch multiples. Common variations are 1×1 rib (knit 1, purl 1), 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2), and 3×1 rib (knit 3, purl 1). While working the corrugated rib, the knit stitches are worked in one color and the purl stitches are worked in the second color.

This type of rib is most often worked in the round, because it makes it easier to makes sure the strands of the yarn are all on the wrong side of the fabric. That said, it’s also very much possible to work corrugated rib flat back and forth.

 This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 2, and in a two-row repeat when worked flat. In the round, it’s worked as a multiple of 4 stitches, and in a one-round repeat.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the colors Vintage Pink, and Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • C1 / C2 – color 1 / color 2
  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • RS / WS – right side / wrong side
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Corrugated rib worked flat

Row 1 (RS): With C1 yarn k2, * with C2 yarn p2, with C1 yarn k2 *; rep from *-* to end.
Row 2 (WS): With C1 yarn p2, * with C2 yarn k2, with C1 yarn p2 *; rep from *-* to end, taking care to keep the strands of unworked yarn at the WS of the work.

Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern until desired length.

Corrugated rib worked in the round

Round 1 (RS): * With C1 yarn k2, with C2 yarn p2 *; rep from *-* to end of round.

Repeat round 1 for pattern until desired length.

The swatch I made, was done flat back and forth. In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Corrugated rib from the RS
Corrugated rib as seen from the RS.
Corrugated rib from the WS
Corrugated rib as seen from the WS.
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stitch pattern – little bells stitch

Little bells stitch by La Visch Designs

The little bells stitch is a pretty lace stitch pattern that does well all-over, and as an accent. It does have patterning on both right side and wrong side rows. That said, on the wrong side rows there are only knit and purl stitches, all increases and decreases are done on the right side. Please keep in mind, that the above swatch is worked in an unblocked worsted weight acrylic. When this stitch pattern is knit in a yarn that blocks out nicely, say a wool or cotton yarn, it may look a tad different from how it looks like here.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 8 stitches + 3, and in a twelve row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
  • skp – slip a stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
  • sl1-k2tog-psso – slip next stitch, knit 2 together, then pass slipped stitch over.
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • yo – yarn over

Little bells stitch instructions

Row 1 (RS): K1, p1, k1, *p1, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, (p1, k1) twice*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (WS): *(P1, k1) twice, p3, k1*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, p1, k1, p1.
Rows 3-6: Rep rows 1-2.
Row 7: K1, k2tog, yo, *(p1, k1) twice, p1, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo*; rep *-* to 8 sts before end, (p1, k1) twice, p1, yo, skp, k1.
Row 8: P3, (k1, p1) twice, k1, *p3, (k1, p1) twice, k1*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, p3.
Rows 9-12: Rep rows 7-8.

Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern until desired length.

Little bells stitch chart

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Little bells stitch from the RS
Little bells stitch from the WS

The below picture gives an impression on how this stitch pattern looks when used allover in a project.

Little bells stitch from the RS all-over
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stitch pattern – slip stitch basket weave

Slip stitch basket weave  by La Visch Designs

The slip stitch basket weave stitch pattern is a variation of 2 x 1 rib. It has strategically placed slip stitches, creating the horizontal threads that give this stitch pattern its lovely texture. Please keep in mind, that the above swatch is worked in an unblocked worsted weight acrylic. When this stitch pattern is knit in a yarn that blocks out nicely, say a wool or cotton yarn, it may look a tad different from how it looks like here.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 6 stitches + 5, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • sl1 wyif – slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
  • sl1 wyib – slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back.
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Slip stitch basket weave instructions

Row 1 (RS): *P2, k1*; rep ** to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 2 (WS): K2, *p1, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 3: *P1, sl1 wyif 3 times, p1, k1*; rep *-* to 5 sts before end, p1, sl1 wyif 3 times, p1.
Row 4: K1, sl1 wyib 3 times, k1, *p1, k1, sl1 wyib 3 times, k1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 5: *P2, k1*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 6: K2, *p1, k2*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.
Row 7: P2, k1, *p1, sl1 wyif 3 times, p1, k1*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 8: K2, *p1, k1, sl1 wyib 3 times, k1*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

Slip stitch basket weave chart

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Slip stitch basket weave from the RS
Slip stitch basket weave from the WS

The below picture gives an impression on how this stitch pattern looks when used allover in a project.

Slip stitch basket weave allover
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