stitch pattern

stitch pattern – hexagon stitch

Hexagon stitch

The hexagon stitch is a very striking stitch that is nevertheless not hard to knit. It’s made by working a yarn over and passing it over a group of stitches. This sequence is alternated, making it look like little hexagons. Because of the passed-over yarn overs, the fabric is a bit tighter than regular stockinette. It shares its tendency to roll, though.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches, and in a four-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Lime.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • RS / WS – right side / wrong side
  • yo – yarn over
  • yo-k3-pass yo over – yarn over, knit 3 stitches, pass the yarn over, over the 3 knit stitches
  • rep – repeat
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Grand staggered eyelet stitch

Row 1 (RS): *Yo-k3-pass yo over, k3; rep from * to end. (6 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: *K3, yo-k3-pass yo over; rep from * to end.
Row 4: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Hexagon stitch as seen from the RS
Hexagon stitch as seen from the RS.
Hexagon stitch as seen from the WS
Hexagon stitch as seen from the WS.

To get an impression of how this stitch looks as an all-over pattern:

Hexagon stitch as seen from the RS - all over
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stitch pattern – grand staggered eyelet stitch

Grand staggered eyelet stitch

The grand staggered eyelet stitch is a bold lace pattern consisting of double yarn overs, flanked by left- and right-leaning decreases. In this version, the second half of the patterning is offset by 2 stitches when compared with the first half. You can, of course, also just repeat the first 4 rows of the patterning all-over. This will result in the eyelets neatly stacked above each other. In this example, I have worked the pattern in acrylic yarn, the swatch has not been blocked. The patterning will pop a lot more if you do block your project.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 6, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

Grand staggered eyelet stitch

Row 1 (RS): K1, k2tog, * yo twice, skp, k2tog; rep from * 3 sts before end, yo twice, skp, k1. (10 sts)
Row 2 (WS): P2, (p1, k1) in double yo, * p2, (p1, k1) in double yo; rep from * to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K1, yo, * skp, k2tog, yo twice; rep from * to 5 sts before end, skp, k2tog, yo, k1.
Row 6: P4, * (p1, k1) in double yo, p2; rep from * to 2 sts before M, p2.
Row 7: Knit.
Row 8: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

Grand staggered eyelet stitch chart

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Grand staggered eyelet stitch shown from the RS
Grand staggered eyelet stitch as seen from the right side
Grand staggered eyelet stitch shown from the WS
Grand staggered eyelet stitch as seen from the wrong side
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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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stitch pattern – crescent stitch

A swatch showing the crescent stitch in green yarn.

The crescent stitch uses both “Cable 3 Left (C3L)” as “Cable 3 Right (C3R)” stitches to create the wavy lines visible in the swatch pictured. Due to all the cabling, it’s not a very fast stitch pattern to work. This may, however, be improved if you can do these cable stitches without the use of a cable needle. I’m not a good enough cable knitter to manage it with any time savings. But perhaps you can!

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 3 stitches + 2, and in a six-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown. You will also need a cable needle.

Stitches used

  • C3L (Cable 3 left) – Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit st from cable needle
  • C3R (Cable 3 right) – Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next st from left-hand needle, then knit 2 sts from cable needle
  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • rep – repeat
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Crescent stitch

Row 1 (right side): Knit.

Row 2 (and all following wrong side rows): Purl.

Row 3: K1, *C3R; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 5: K1, *C3L; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 6: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Crescent stitch as seen from the right side
Crescent stitch as seen from the wrong side
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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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stitch pattern – bamboo lace stitch

Bamboo lace stitch - by La Visch Designs

The bamboo lace stitch is in looks very similar to the regular bamboo stitch. However, it’s constructed quite differently. And, of course, the looks are much more lacy! Please keep in mind, though, that the above swatch is worked in a worsted weight acrylic. When this stitch pattern is knit in a yarn that blocks out nicely, say a wool or cotton yarn, it opens up a lot more than it looks like here.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 3 stitches + 2, and in a one-row repeat. In other words: it’s worked exactly the same on both right and wrong side rows. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • yo – yarn over
  • sl wyib – slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in the back
  • k2tog tbl – knit 2 stitches together through the back loop
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Bamboo lace

Row 1 (right side): k1, *yo, sl1 wyib, k1; rep from * to last st before end, k1.

Repeat row 1 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Bamboo lace stitch as seen from the right side
Bamboo lace stitch as seen from the right side
Bamboo lace stitch as seen from the wrong side
Bamboo lace stitch as seen from the wrong side
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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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stitch pattern – little V lace

Little V lace - a stitch pattern

Small V lace is a cute lace stitch pattern, consisting of 2 types of single decreases and yarn overs. It’s very suited for both all-over patterning, and use in an accent panel. This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 8 + 1 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

Little V lace instructions

Row 1 (right side): K1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, skp, k2; rep from * to end.

Row 2: (wrong side): Purl.

Row 3: K1, *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, skp, k1; rep from * to end.

Row 4: Knit.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern.

Little V lace - view from the RS
Little V lace - view from the WS
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stitch pattern – slip stitch diamond

Stitch pattern - slip stitch diamond

In the slip stitch diamond stitch pattern, little diamonds are formed by slipping stitches and keeping the working yarn at the front of the work. Then a stitch is worked from underneath the strands of yarn, creating the little “V” shape you see at the bottom corner of each diamond. Because of the slipped stitches, the tension of fabric with this patterning may be a tad tighter when compared with regular stockinette.

This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 4 + 1 stitches, and a repeat of 12 rows. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • sl wyif – slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in front
  • k1 uls – knit 1 stitch under loose strands
  • st(s) – stitch(es)

Slip stitch diamond instructions

Row 1 (right side): K1, *sl 3 wyif, k1; rep from * to end.

Row 2 and all following wrong side rows: Purl.

Row 3: K1, *sl 3 wyif, k1; rep from * to end.

Row 5: K2, *k1 uls, k3; rep from * to 3 sts before end, k1 uls, k2.

Row 7: K3, *sl 3 wyif, k1; rep from * to 2 sts before end, k2.

Row 9: K3, *sl 3 wyif, k1; rep from * to 2 sts before end, k2.

Row 11: K4, *k1 uls, k3; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 12: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern.

In the below picture, I’ve worked 21 stitches in the slip stitch diamond patterning, over 36 rows.

Slip stitch diamond
Close up of slip stitch diamond
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stitch pattern – double moss stitch

Double moss stitch

Double moss stitch, like moss stitch and seed stitch, is a classic textured knitting stitch. It’s a very simple stitch pattern, using only knits and purls. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 4 stitches. Because the patterning alternates knits and purls, it creates a fabric that does not curl. This makes it a very lovely alternative for garter stitch or rib stitch to create non-rolling edges for your project. Also, because it’s virtually the same on both sides of the fabric, it’s a very good choice for those cases where both sides can be visible.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • RS / WS – right side / wrong side

Double moss stitch instructions

Work the following 4 rows for the pattern:

Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Row 2 (WS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Row 3: *P2, k2; rep from * to end.

Row 4: *P2, k2; rep from * to end.

As you can see, rows 1 and 2 and the same, as are rows 3 and 4. This is a very simple stitch pattern that can really help you learn how to read your knitting. Try it!

A picture of double moss stitch
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stitch pattern – bamboo stitch

A swatch of bamboo stitch in lilac yarn on a knitting needle.

The bamboo stitch is a wonderfully textured stitch. It looks very similar to bamboo shoots, with the horizontal lines dividing the sections. Hence, the name of this stitch pattern. Also, it’s much easier to work than it looks like. It can be used as all-over patterning in for example dish cloths or blankets. But it would also work very well as a strategically placed accent in a bigger project. It is a simple 2-row repeat, worked over a multiple of 2 stitches.

Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

Bamboo stitch instructions – worked flat

On an even number of stitches, work the following 2 rows for the pattern:

Row 1 (RS): *Yo, k2, pass the yo over both k sts; rep from * to end.

Row 2: (WS): Purl.

Bamboo stitch instructions – worked in the round

On an even number of stitches, work the following 2 rounds for the pattern:

Round 1: *Yo, k2, pass the yo over both k sts; rep from * to end of round.

Round 2: Knit.

The step of lifting the yo over the 2 knit stitches, and the result of that, can be seen in the 2 pictures below.

The result

Viewed from the right side of the fabric:

Bamboo stitch shown from the front

Viewed from the wrong side of the fabric:

Bamboo stitch shown from the back
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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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stitch pattern – moss stitch

Moss stitch

Moss stitch, like seed stitch, is a classic textured knitting stitch. It’s a very simple stitch pattern, using only knits and purls. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 4 stitches. Because the patterning alternates knits and purls, it creates a fabric that does not curl. This makes it a very lovely alternative for garter stitch or rib stitch to create non-rolling edges for your project. Also, because it’s virtually the same on both sides of the fabric, it’s a very good choice for those cases where both sides can be visible.

A good thing to keep in mind when working moss stitch, is that this is a stitch pattern where you always purl the knits and knit the purls. No matter if you’re working the wrong side or the right side of the fabric, working flat back and forth or in the round. My post about “knit the knits and purl the purls” gives you some pointers on how to read your knitting to make this easier.

Ok, let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • RS / WS – right side / wrong side

Moss stitch instructions

Work the following 2 rows for the pattern:

Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Row 2: (WS): *P2, k2; rep from * to end.

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Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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stitch pattern – herringbone stitch

Herrignbone stitch

Herringbone stitch is a stitch pattern that creates a woven looking fabric. It creates a very thick and dense fabric, for that reason it’s often used for home decor projects, or items like scarfs and cowls. Because it is so dense, it’s strongly advised to use a much larger size of needles than you may usually use for that particular yarn. In this tutorial, I will be using a fingering weight yarn with size 4 mm (US 6) needles. But I can already tell you that going up another size wouldn’t have been a mistake. Of course, it all depends on your preference.

There are various ways to work herringbone stitch. As far as I know, they all boil down to a left leaning decrease on the right side of the fabric, of which only 1 loop is slipped off. This is followed by a decrease worked on the wrong side, that shows as a right leaning decrease on the right side of the fabric. Of this, again, only 1 loop is slipped off every time the decrease is worked. There are many left leaning and right leaning decreases, so that absolutely explains a lot of the variations in working the herringbone stitch. In this example, I will be using k2tog tbl as my left-leaning decrease, and p2tog as my right-leaning decrease.

Materials used

Yarn: Leftovers from my Sunglow Forest shawl, it’s Fleece Artist Merino Slim (100% Merino wool; 400 m (437 yds) / 115 g) in “Minegold”

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

  • k – knit
  • k2tog tbl – knit 2 stitches together through the back loop
  • p – purl
  • p2tog – purl 2 stitches together
  • RS / WS – right side / wrong side

Working herringbone stitch step by step

For this particular stitch pattern, there is no specific multiple needed for the patterning to work out. So, cast on any number of stitches.

  1. To start, insert the needle through the back loop of the first 2 stitches on the left-handle needle.


    Step 1 - insert needle

  2. Wrap the yarn around the needle…

    step 2 of working herringbone stitch

  3. … and pull it through both loops.

    Don’t let the loops drop off the needle yet! See that I use my finger to hold the second loop from the tip fixed against the needle?Step 3

  4. Drop the loop, and only the loop closest to the needle tip, off the needle.

    Repeat steps 1 to 4 until there is 1 stitch left in the row.Step 4

  5. Knit this last stitch.

    Next, we can turn the work to start the WS instructions.Step 5

  6. Now insert the needle purl wise through the first two stitches on the left-hand needle.

    Step 6

  7. Wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle….

    Step 7

  8. … pull the yarn through the 2 stitches.

    Again, I use my finger to hold the second loop from the tip fixed against the needle.Step 8

  9. This is how it looks after I’ve dropped the loop closest to the needle tip, off the needle.

    Repeat steps 6 to 9, until there is 1 stitch left in the row.Step 9

  10. Purl this last stitch.

    Repeat steps 1-10 for the stitch pattern.Step 10

The result

Viewed from the right side of the fabric:

Herringbone stitch, viewed from the RS

Viewed from the wrong side of the fabric:

Herringbone stitch, viewed from the WS
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