lace

Corrugated rib is a way to work ribbing in 2 colors. Similar to working stranded knitting, the 2 colors are alternated while working a row. Because of this, corrugated rib is not a stretchy rib, and therefore not suitable for those projects where a lot of elasticity is needed. It is, however, very decorative. Corrugated rib, like any other type of ribbing, can be worked on a wide variety of stitch multiples. Common variations are 1×1 rib (knit 1, purl 1), 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2), and 3×1 rib (knit 3, purl 1). While working the corrugated rib, the knit stitches are worked in one color and the purl stitches are worked in the second color.

This type of rib is most often worked in the round, because it makes it easier to makes sure the strands of the yarn are all on the wrong side of the fabric. That said, it’s also very much possible to work corrugated rib flat back and forth.

 This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 2, and in a two-row repeat when worked flat. In the round, it’s worked as a multiple of 4 stitches, and in a one-round repeat.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the colors Vintage Pink, and Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• C1 / C2 – color 1 / color 2
• k – knit
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Corrugated rib worked flat

Row 1 (RS): With C1 yarn k2, * with C2 yarn p2, with C1 yarn k2 *; rep from *-* to end.
Row 2 (WS): With C1 yarn p2, * with C2 yarn k2, with C1 yarn p2 *; rep from *-* to end, taking care to keep the strands of unworked yarn at the WS of the work.

Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern until desired length.

Corrugated rib worked in the round

Round 1 (RS): * With C1 yarn k2, with C2 yarn p2 *; rep from *-* to end of round.

Repeat round 1 for pattern until desired length.

The swatch I made, was done flat back and forth. In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

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The poollehekiri lace stitch pattern is Estonian in origin. Poollehekiri translates to “half leaves”. And that is literally how it’s constructed! If you take a look at the chart below, you can see that once the first row of leaves has been worked half, a new set of leaves is worked, offset to the first row. This way, interlocking chevrons are formed by the yarn overs. Please keep in mind, though, that the above swatch is worked in a worsted weight acrylic. When this stitch pattern is knit in a yarn that blocks out nicely, say a wool or cotton yarn, it opens up a lot more than it looks like here.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 12 stitches + 1, and in a twelve-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
• p – purl
• skp – slip a stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• yo – yarn over

Poollehekiri half leaves stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): *K1, skp, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, skp, yo, k1, k2tog*; rep *–* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2 and all following wrong side rows: Purl.
Row 3: *K1, skp, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog*; rep *–* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 5: *K1, skp, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, k2tog*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 7: *K1, yo, skp, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, skp, k1, yo, k2tog, yo*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 9: *K2, yo, k2, k2tog, k1, skp, k2, yo, k1*; rep *–* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 11: *K3, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, skp, k1, yo, k2*; rep *–* to 1 st before end, k1.

Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

Back in 2011 I decided to cast on a stole using the linen stitch. It’s named like that, because it looks similar to a woven linen fabric. The stitch uses simple slipped stitches to achieve that effect. This also means that the fabric it creates is rather dense and may turn out very tight during knitting. To counter that effect, go up needles sizes from what you would usually use for that weight of yarn. In the project pictured, I used 4.5 mm (US 7) size needles, there is nothing loose about this fabric!

The patterning can, of course, be worked in a single color. But because of the slip stitches, very lovely effects can be achieved by using 2 or more colors. The general advice for changing yarn colors, with the linen stitch, is to change colors at the beginning of every odd-numbered row. In the project pictured, I’m working 3 rows of each color in the following sequence: gray, red, variegated black & gray’s, red. As a sidenote, in this project I cut the yarn with every row for instant fringe at the sides of my stole.

The stitch pattern requires any odd number of stitches, and is worked over 2 rows, when not taking color sequences into account.

Materials used

Yarn: Zettl Sockenwolle Cortina, a light fingering sock yarn (75% Wool, 25% Nylon) per 209 m (229 yds) / 50 g. Pictured here in a gray variegated colorway, also red and solid gray were used in the project shown.

Needles: Addi Lace Circular Needles. In this project, I used the 4.5 mm (US 7) size.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat
• sl – slip the indicated stitch purl-wise to the right-hand needle
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• wyib – with the yarn held in the back of your project
• wyif – with the yarn held in the front of your project

Linen stitch

Row 1 (RS): * K1, sl 1 wyif; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, * p1, sl 1 wyib; rep from * to end.

Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

The St John’s wort stitch is a traditional lace knitting stitch. It combines a 3 to 2 decrease on the right side of the fabric, with a strategically placed yarn over increase on the following wrong side of the fabric. Because of this, you’ll see that the stitch count decreases on the right side rows, and increases again on the wrong side rows. As far as lace patterning goes, this one is pretty intuitive to knit: The yarn over always has to be worked between the 2 wrapped stitches of the 3 to 2 decrease. This makes it pretty easy to read the knitting, and see which stitch needs to go where.

The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 6 + 2 stitches, and is worked over 4 rows. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. These are not included in the stitch pattern description.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• p – purl
• psso – pass the slipped stitch over
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat
• sl – slip the indicated stitch knit-wise to the right-hand needle
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• yo – yarn over

St. John’s Wort stitch

Row 1 (RS): K1, * (sl 1, k2, psso), k3; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2 (WS): P1, * p4, yo, p1; rep from * to 1 st before end, p1.
Row 3: K1, * k3, (sl 1, k2, psso); rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 4: P1, * p1, yo, p4; rep from * to 1 st before end, p1.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

The staggered eyelet stitch consists of alternating eyelets on a stockinette background. It’s a quite simple stitch pattern, with a gorgeous effect when used all-over in a design. Especially if you don’t want to take away too much attention from the yarn. This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2 stitches, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. These are not included in the stitch pattern description.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• yo – yarn over

Staggered eyelet stitch

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 and all following WS rows: Purl.
Row 3: K1, yo, k2tog, *k2, yo, k2tog; rep from * to 3 sts before end, k3.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 7: K3, *yo, k2tog, k2; rep from * to 3 sts before end, yo, k2tog, k1.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.