stitch pattern Archives - Page 2 of 5

stitch pattern – bubble stitch

The bubble stitch is a lovely way to add texture to your knitting. This pattern creates three-dimensional bubbles in the fabric, making it great to add extra interest to your projects. It’s a stitch pattern, that is known under many different names. You can also encounter it as the bubble wrap stitch, and the air bobble stitch. While the bubble stitch may look similar to the regular bobble stitch, it’s structured very differently. The bubble stitch creates a pattern of raised, rounded bubbles across the fabric, through a combination of knit and purl stitches and elongated stitches. The bobble stitch, on the other hand, involves creating a protruding, three-dimensional knot by working multiple stitches into one, and then decreasing back to a single stitch.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 3, and in a twelve-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
k4b – knit 4 below
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)

Bubble stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2 and all following wrong side rows: Purl.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 5: K3, *k4b, k3*; rep *-* to end.
Row 7: Knit.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 11: K1, *k4b, k3*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, k4b, k1.
Row 12: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern until desired length.

Please note that if you want to work this pattern in multiple colors, change colors after row 4 and 10.

Below you can see how this stitch pattern looks, first as seen the from the right side, and then from the wrong side of the fabric.

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stitch pattern – twisted twill stitch

Twisted twill stitch by La Visch Designs

The twisted twill stitch uses the “left twist stitch” to create the wavy lines visible in the swatch pictured. The result looks very similar to cables, but without actual cabling. As a matter of fact, this particular stitch pattern looks very similar to spiral stitch. However, instead of a traveling band of purl stitches, left twist stitches are used. One way or the other, it’s patterning with lovely texture, suitable for a wide range of projects.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 7 stitches + 2, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown. You will also need a cable needle.

Stitches used

k – knit
LT – left twist: Skip the next stitch on the left-hand needle, knit into the back loop of the second stitch, leaving the stitch on the needle. Next, bring the right-hand needle to the front of the left-hand needle and knit into the skipped stitch. Pull both loops off of the left needle to finish the stitch.
p – purl
rep – repeat
st(s) – stitch(es)

Twisted twill stitch

Row 1 (right side): P2, *LT, k3, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (and all following wrong side rows): K2, *p5, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 3: P2, *k1, LT, k2, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 5: P2, *k2, LT, k1, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 7: P2, *k3, LT, p2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 8: K2, *p5, k2*; rep *-* to end.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The twisted twill stitch as seen from the right side. — Twisted twill stitch as seen from the right side

The twisted twill stitch as seen from the wrong side. — Twisted twill stitch as seen from the wrong side

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stitch pattern – corrugated rib

Corrugated rib is a way to work ribbing in 2 colors. Similar to working stranded knitting, the 2 colors are alternated while working a row. Because of this, corrugated rib is not a stretchy rib, and therefore not suitable for those projects where a lot of elasticity is needed. It is, however, very decorative. Corrugated rib, like any other type of ribbing, can be worked on a wide variety of stitch multiples. Common variations are 1×1 rib (knit 1, purl 1), 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2), and 3×1 rib (knit 3, purl 1). While working the corrugated rib, the knit stitches are worked in one color and the purl stitches are worked in the second color.

This type of rib is most often worked in the round, because it makes it easier to makes sure the strands of the yarn are all on the wrong side of the fabric. That said, it’s also very much possible to work corrugated rib flat back and forth.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 2, and in a two-row repeat when worked flat. In the round, it’s worked as a multiple of 4 stitches, and in a one-round repeat.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the colors Vintage Pink, and Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

C1 / C2 – color 1 / color 2
k – knit
p – purl
RS / WS – right side / wrong side
st(s) – stitch(es)

Corrugated rib worked flat

Row 1 (RS): With C1 yarn k2, * with C2 yarn p2, with C1 yarn k2 *; rep from *-* to end.
Row 2 (WS): With C1 yarn p2, * with C2 yarn k2, with C1 yarn p2 *; rep from *-* to end, taking care to keep the strands of unworked yarn at the WS of the work.

Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern until desired length.

Corrugated rib worked in the round

Round 1 (RS): * With C1 yarn k2, with C2 yarn p2 *; rep from *-* to end of round.

Repeat round 1 for pattern until desired length.

The swatch I made, was done flat back and forth. In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Corrugated rib from the RS — Corrugated rib as seen from the RS.

Corrugated rib from the WS — Corrugated rib as seen from the WS.

stitch pattern – corrugated rib Read More »

stitch pattern – little bells stitch

The little bells stitch is a pretty lace stitch pattern that does well all-over, and as an accent. It does have patterning on both right side and wrong side rows. That said, on the wrong side rows there are only knit and purl stitches, all increases and decreases are done on the right side. Please keep in mind, that the above swatch is worked in an unblocked worsted weight acrylic. When this stitch pattern is knit in a yarn that blocks out nicely, say a wool or cotton yarn, it may look a tad different from how it looks like here.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 8 stitches + 3, and in a twelve row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
skp – slip a stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
sl1-k2tog-psso – slip next stitch, knit 2 together, then pass slipped stitch over.
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over

Little bells stitch instructions

Row 1 (RS): K1, p1, k1, *p1, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, (p1, k1) twice*; rep *-* to end.
Row 2 (WS): *(P1, k1) twice, p3, k1*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, p1, k1, p1.
Rows 3-6: Rep rows 1-2.
Row 7: K1, k2tog, yo, *(p1, k1) twice, p1, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo*; rep *-* to 8 sts before end, (p1, k1) twice, p1, yo, skp, k1.
Row 8: P3, (k1, p1) twice, k1, *p3, (k1, p1) twice, k1*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, p3.
Rows 9-12: Rep rows 7-8.

Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The below picture gives an impression on how this stitch pattern looks when used allover in a project.

Little bells stitch from the RS all-over

stitch pattern – little bells stitch Read More »

stitch pattern – slip stitch basket weave

Slip stitch basket weave by La Visch Designs

The slip stitch basket weave stitch pattern is a variation of 2 x 1 rib. It has strategically placed slip stitches, creating the horizontal threads that give this stitch pattern its lovely texture. Please keep in mind, that the above swatch is worked in an unblocked worsted weight acrylic. When this stitch pattern is knit in a yarn that blocks out nicely, say a wool or cotton yarn, it may look a tad different from how it looks like here.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 6 stitches + 5, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
sl1 wyif – slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
sl1 wyib – slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back.
st(s) – stitch(es)

Slip stitch basket weave instructions

Row 1 (RS): *P2, k1*; rep *–* to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 2 (WS): K2, *p1, k2*; rep *-* to end.
Row 3: *P1, sl1 wyif 3 times, p1, k1*; rep *-* to 5 sts before end, p1, sl1 wyif 3 times, p1.
Row 4: K1, sl1 wyib 3 times, k1, *p1, k1, sl1 wyib 3 times, k1*; rep *-* to end.
Row 5: *P2, k1*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 6: K2, *p1, k2*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.
Row 7: P2, k1, *p1, sl1 wyif 3 times, p1, k1*; rep *-* to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 8: K2, *p1, k1, sl1 wyib 3 times, k1*; rep *-* to 3 sts before end, p1, k2.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The below picture gives an impression on how this stitch pattern looks when used allover in a project.

stitch pattern – slip stitch basket weave Read More »

stitch pattern – Estonian button stitch

The Estonian button stitch is a lovely way to add texture to your knitting. It can be added as extra interest to a lace or cable pattern. Or, as pictured here, to spruce up otherwise plain stockinette fabric. While the instructions directly start with a button stitch row, it’s advised to insert 2 rows in stockinette before starting the patterning.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 6 stitches + 2, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage Pink.

Needles: Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

You will also need a cable needle in a size similar to that of your knitting needles

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)

Estonian button stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): K1, *k the next 3 sts onto the cable needle, move the working yarn behind the held stitches and wrap them with the yarn 4 times (behind the work from left to right, then move to the front and move from right to left). Slip the 3 stitches onto the right-hand needle, k3; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2 and all following wrong side rows: Purl.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 5: K1, *k3, k the next 3 sts onto the cable needle, move the working yarn behind the held stitches and wrap them with the yarn 4 times (again behind the work from left to right, then move to the front and move from right to left). Slip the 3 stitches onto the right-hand needle; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 7: Knit.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

Below you can see how this stitch pattern looks, first as seen the from the right side, and then from the wrong side of the fabric.

stitch pattern – Estonian button stitch Read More »

stitch pattern – poollehekiri half leaves stitch

The poollehekiri lace stitch pattern is Estonian in origin. Poollehekiri translates to “half leaves”. And that is literally how it’s constructed! If you take a look at the chart below, you can see that once the first row of leaves has been worked half, a new set of leaves is worked, offset to the first row. This way, interlocking chevrons are formed by the yarn overs. Please keep in mind, though, that the above swatch is worked in a worsted weight acrylic. When this stitch pattern is knit in a yarn that blocks out nicely, say a wool or cotton yarn, it opens up a lot more than it looks like here.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 12 stitches + 1, and in a twelve-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
p – purl
skp – slip a stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over

Poollehekiri half leaves stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): *K1, skp, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, skp, yo, k1, k2tog*; rep *–* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2 and all following wrong side rows: Purl.
Row 3: *K1, skp, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog*; rep *–* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 5: *K1, skp, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, k2tog*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 7: *K1, yo, skp, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, skp, k1, yo, k2tog, yo*; rep *-* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 9: *K2, yo, k2, k2tog, k1, skp, k2, yo, k1*; rep *–* to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 11: *K3, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, skp, k1, yo, k2*; rep *–* to 1 st before end, k1.

Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Poollehekiri (half leaves) stitch from the RS

Poollehekiri (half leaves) stitch from the WS

stitch pattern – poollehekiri half leaves stitch Read More »

stitch pattern – stockinette ridge stitch

Stockinette ridge stitch by La Visch Designs

The stockinette ridge stitch is a stitch pattern, that uses increases and decreases to make a wonderful textured fabric. Due to the decreases in one of the 4 rows of the pattern repeat, this stitch pattern is less stretchy than regular stockinette. Just something to be beware of! This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 2 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
k2tog – knit two stitches together
kfb – knit in the front and then in the back of the stitch
p – purl
rep – repeat

Stockinette ridge stitch instructions

Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2 (wrong side): *K2tog; rep from * to end.
Row 3: *Kfb; rep from * end.
Row 4: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern.

The stockinette ridge stitch as shown from the front:

The stockinette ridge stitch as shown from the back:

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stitch pattern – knitting 4-stitch cables

With cable knitting, you usually work stitches in stockinette against a background of either garter stitch or reverse stockinette. The cables themselves are worked in stockinette, and once every few rows the order of those stitches on your knitting needle is changed. For example, when 4 stitches appear on the needle in the order ABCD, one might cross the first two the next two, so that in subsequent rows those stitches appear in the new order CDAB. These crossings are what gives cables their characteristic look.

Stitch patterns with cables can be very complex. In this stitch pattern, however, I show you a simple 2/2 RC, and a 2/2 LC cable. This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 12 + 2 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

You will also need a cable needle in a similar or slightly smaller size as your knitting needles. Unless, of course, you’re going to work the cables without a cable needle. In a future tutorial, I will show you how to do this.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
2/2 LC (2/2 left-cross cable): Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and place at front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
2/2 RC (2/2 right-cross cable): Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and place at back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

4-stitch cable instructions

Row 1 (right side): * (P2, k4) twice; rep from * to 2 sts before end, p2. (14 sts)

Row 2: (wrong side): K2, * (p4, k2) twice; rep from * to end.

Row 3: * P2, 2/2 RC, p2, 2/2 LC*; rep from * to 2 sts before end, p2.

Row 4: K2, * (p4, k2) twice; rep from * to end.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern.

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stitch pattern – linen stitch

Back in 2011 I decided to cast on a stole using the linen stitch. It’s named like that, because it looks similar to a woven linen fabric. The stitch uses simple slipped stitches to achieve that effect. This also means that the fabric it creates is rather dense and may turn out very tight during knitting. To counter that effect, go up needles sizes from what you would usually use for that weight of yarn. In the project pictured, I used 4.5 mm (US 7) size needles, there is nothing loose about this fabric!

The patterning can, of course, be worked in a single color. But because of the slip stitches, very lovely effects can be achieved by using 2 or more colors. The general advice for changing yarn colors, with the linen stitch, is to change colors at the beginning of every odd-numbered row. In the project pictured, I’m working 3 rows of each color in the following sequence: gray, red, variegated black & gray’s, red. As a sidenote, in this project I cut the yarn with every row for instant fringe at the sides of my stole.

The stitch pattern requires any odd number of stitches, and is worked over 2 rows, when not taking color sequences into account.

Materials used

Yarn: Zettl Sockenwolle Cortina, a light fingering sock yarn (75% Wool, 25% Nylon) per 209 m (229 yds) / 50 g. Pictured here in a gray variegated colorway, also red and solid gray were used in the project shown.

Needles: Addi Lace Circular Needles. In this project, I used the 4.5 mm (US 7) size.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
RS / WS – right side / wrong side
rep – repeat
sl – slip the indicated stitch purl-wise to the right-hand needle
st(s) – stitch(es)
wyib – with the yarn held in the back of your project
wyif – with the yarn held in the front of your project

Linen stitch

Row 1 (RS): * K1, sl 1 wyif; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, * p1, sl 1 wyib; rep from * to end.

Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

Linen stitch as seen from the RS — The stitch as seen from the RS.

Linen stitch as seen from the WS — The stitch as seen from the WS.

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