stitch pattern Archives - Page 3 of 3

stitch pattern – seed stitch

This post will give you the instructions for working seed stitch. It’s a very simple stitch pattern, using only knits and purls. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 2 stitches. Because the patterning alternates knits and purls, it creates a fabric that does not curl. This makes it a very lovely alternative for garter stitch or rib stitch to create non-rolling edges for your project.

A good thing to keep in mind when working seed stitch, is that this is a stitch pattern where you always purl the knits and knit the purls. No matter if you’re working the wrong side or the right side of the fabric, over an even or an odd number of stitches, work flat back and forth or in the round. My post about “knit the knits and purl the purls” gives you some pointers on how to read your knitting to make this easier.

Ok, let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl

Seed stitch instructions – even number of stitches

On an even number of stitches, work the following 2 rows for the pattern:

Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

Row 2: (wrong side): *P1, k1; rep from * to end.

Seed stitch instructions – odd number of stitches

In the case of an odd number of stitches, work the following instead:

Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.

Repeat row 1 for all following rows.

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stitch pattern – right slanting diagonal rib

This post will give you the instructions for working the right slanting diagonal rib pattern. As its left slanting counterpart, it works well both as all-over patterning, as well as an alternative for regular rib as finishing for hems and sleeves. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 6 stitches.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 125 Spearmint Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl

Right slanting diagonal rib instructions

Row 1 (right side): *P3, k3; rep from * to end.

Row 2: (wrong side): *K1, p3, k2 rep from * to end.

Row 3: *P1, k3, p2; rep from * to end.

Row 4: *K3, p3; rep from * to end.

Row 5: *K2, p3, k1; rep from * to end.

Row 6: *P2, k3, p1; rep from * to end.

Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern.

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stitch pattern – small shale

Small Shale is the smallest variation of the Old Shale stitch pattern, which is a traditional Shetland stitch pattern. Sets of decreases are alternated with sets of yarn over increases, creating a lovely wavy edge of both the bottom and top of the fabric. Because this patterning also contains some garter stitch, the fabric tends to lay flat. For this reason, Small Shale is very suitable for things like hems and edgings. This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 11 + 2 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
skp – slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Replace this decrease with a ssk, if preferred.
yo – yarn over

Small shale instructions

Row 1 (right side): K1, *k2tog twice, (yo, k1) 3 times, yo, skp twice; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.

Row 2: (wrong side): Purl.

Row 3: Knit.

Row 4: Knit.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern.

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stitch pattern – left slanting diagonal rib

This post is about working the left slanting diagonal rib pattern. It works well both as all-over patterning, as well as an alternative for regular rib as finishing for hems and sleeves. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 6 stitches.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 125 Spearmint Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

k – knit
p – purl

Left slanting diagonal rib instructions

Row 1 (right side): *K3, p3; rep from * to end.

Row 2: (wrong side): *K2, p3, k1 rep from * to end.

Row 3: *P2, k3, p1; rep from * to end.

Row 4: *P3, k3; rep from * to end.

Row 5: *K1, p3, k2; rep from * to end.

Row 6: *P1, k3, p2; rep from * to end.

Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern.

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tutorial: crochet the star stitch

Crochet the Star Stitch - a tutorial by La Visch Designs - www.lavisch.com

The star stitch is a very pretty stitch, which also gives projects a lovely texture. You may also have heard of this stitch by the name of “Marguerite Stitch”. In this post, I will show you how to crochet the reversible half-star version. This means that each side of the fabric will show half a star, giving a completely reversible fabric. Instructions are also given to transform it into the full-star, non-reversible star stitch.

The star stitch is worked as a multiple of 2 + 1 + stitches plus three turning chains. If you want to work this stitch on an existing piece in another stitch pattern, start with a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches and 3 turning chains before you turn your work and starting the first row in star stitch.

It is of course also possible to crochet the star stitch in the round. In that case, work a multiple of 2 + 1 stitches and crochet the 3 turning chains after joining in the round.

In this post I’ll show you how to work the star stitch as a flat piece working back and forth. These instructions are written in American English crochet terminology.

The star stitch step by step

First row

1. In this example, I crochet the star stitch directly on the starting chain, which I made 16 chains long.

2. When inserting the hook in a chain stitch, there are of course several options on where in the stitch exactly to insert your hook. However, for the best result in this stitch, I would suggest inserting your hook in the single bumps at the back of the starting chain.

First star

3. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook and pull up a loop.

4. Also repeat step 3 for the third to sixth chain from the hook. Take care to pull up the last few loops a little bit longer than the first ones. You now have 6 loops on your hook.

5. Make a yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook.

6. Crochet 1 chain, your first star is now done.

Second star

7. To start the next star, insert your hook in the chain just made and pull up a loop.

8. Then insert the hook under the two loops you can see on the side of the last pulled up loop from the previous star and pull a loop.

9. Now insert your hook in the last chain of the starting chain in which the previous star was made. This was the sixth chain from the hook. Pull up a loop.

10. To complete all the loops for the second star, insert the hook into the next chain from the starting chain and pull a loop. This was the seventh chain from the hook. Repeat for the eighth chain from the hook. Remember to make these last loops a bit longer again than the previous loops. You now have again six loops on the hook.

11. Make a yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook. Crochet 1 chain, this completes the second star.

12. Repeat steps 7 to 11 until the end of the row. You can clearly see in this example how pretty the bottom edge is, because I have worked in the back bumps of the starting chain.

Second row
For the full-star non-reversible version of the star stitch, work a full row in sc or hdc before continuing with steps 13 to 16.

13. Crochet 3 chains and turn work. Make sure you do not crochet these chains too tight, because you will crochet into them later on.

14. Insert your hook in the second chain from the hook (in the bump on the back of the turning chain!) and pull up a loop. Repeat for the third chain from the hook. Next pull up loops in the first, second and third stitches from the previous row.

15. Make a yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook. Crochet 1 chain, this completes the first star of the second row.

16. For the next stars of this row, repeat steps 7 to 11. To pull up the last loop for the last star of the row, you insert the hook in the chain that you skipped when making the first star of the previous row. Depending on how loose your turning chain was made, this may be a bit tight …

17. Repeat steps 13 to 16 for the rest of your project. For the full-star non-reversible version of the star stitch, work a full row in sc or hdc before every repeat of steps 13 to 16.

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