crochet

stip baby cardigan

Stip Baby Cardigan


The little two-tone Stip Baby Cardigan is a simple and elegant layering piece for when the weather is still cold and a little extra warmth is much appreciated. With its eye-catching dot yoke and soft A-line shape, this cardigan is bound to become a timeless favorite.

The cardigan is worked back and forth from the top down in one piece. Finish the piece with a reverse single crochet neck and hem finishing in a contrasting color.
This pattern is written in American English crochet terminology.


Pay what you want: (minimum €7.10)

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Sizing

This pattern includes the following baby sizes:
3M (6M, 12M, 18M, 2) with finished chest size 49.5 (52, 54.5, 56.5, 63) cm / 19 ½ (20 ½, 21 ½, 22 ¼ , 24 ¾) inches to fit chest 40.5 (43, 45.5, 48, 53.5) cm / 16 (17, 18, 19, 21) inches.
Approx. 9 cm or 3 ½ inches positive ease recommended.

Difficulty

Techniques used in the Stip Baby Cardigan consist of foundation half double crochet foundation row, hdc, dc and ch stitches as well as various hdc increases and decreases.
This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate crocheter.

Pattern details

  • Crochet this design top-down
  • Gauge: 17 sts and 11.5 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in hdc after wet blocking.
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie).
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (A4 size)

Yarn

For this design you need yarn in DK or worsted weight in the following quantities for a similar result:

  • Main color: 300 (385, 435, 505, 515) m (330 (420, 475, 550, 565) yds) in gray.
  • Contrast Color: 60 (63, 70, 75, 80) m (65 (70, 75, 80, 85) yds) in lime.

Materials

  • Size 4 mm (G-6) crochet hook
  • Yarn needle
  • 4 removable stitch markers
  • three size 3/8 inches sew-on snap buttons

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tutorial: reverse single crochet (rsc)

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

A knitting or crochet project isn’t really finished until all edges and borders are also finished. With knitted pieces, this plays an even more important role, as stockinette or stockinette-based fabric often curls. Applying a crocheted edge is a nice and easy solution to prevent this. In this post, I’m going to write about the “crab stitch” or “reverse single crochet”. This stitch is often abbreviated as “rsc”. The latter reveals a lot about how this stitch is worked: exactly the same way as a regular single crochet stitch, only in the reverse direction!

What I find really nice about the crab stitch, is that it has a very sleek unisex look. Because of this, it is very suitable for finishing of clothing items and accessories for men of all ages. Also, you can create very nice effects by stitching the crab stitch in a contrasting color. This is something I’ve done in the green and blue vest, which you can see a detail of in the picture above. In the step-by-step instructions, I will, however, be making the crab stitch edging in the same color as the main piece. Please note that American crochet terminology is used in this tutorial.

Crab stitch or reverse single crochet step by step:

1. Begin on the left side of the item, you will be working from the left to right.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

2. Insert the hook in the base stitch where you want to start your edging.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

3. Twist the point of your hook to the left, grab the yarn and pull through the stitch. This is the hardest part of the reverse single crochet stitch to get right. There are now two loops on your hook.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

4. Yarn over and draw through the two loops on your hook.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

5. This completes the first stitch. Repeat steps 1 to 4 as often as needed for your project.

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

The completed edging will look like this:

Reverse single crochet - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In the picture below, you see in the middle a version of my Kimono Wrap Revisited, which I finished with a reverse single crochet edging in a contrasting color.

kimono wrap revisited by La Visch Designs

Have fun embellishing your projects with this wonderful, versatile stitch!

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tutorial: foundation double crochet (fdc)

In earlier tutorials, I have already shown you how to start your crochet without a starting chain, using either foundation single crochet (fsc) or foundation half double crochet (fhdc).

In this tutorial, the final part in the series: how to work a foundation double crochet or fdc. Please note that American crochet terminology is used in this tutorial. In a pattern, you may find the following instruction for fhdc:

Foundation double crochet: make a slip knot and place onto hook, ch 3, yo and insert hook into both lps of the third st from hook, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through first 2 lps on hook, yo and draw through last 2 lps on hook, *yo, insert hook in ch part of previous st, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through first 2 lps on hook, yo and draw through last 2 lps on hook; rep from *.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) step by step

1. Make a slip knot and chain 3.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

2. Yarn over and insert the hook from right to left under the top strands of the third chain from the hook.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

3. Yarn over and draw through the top strands as indicated above.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

4. Chain one stitch, make sure to make this one not too tight, because here you create the “chain” part of your foundation row.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

5. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on your hook.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

6. Yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on your hook. This completes the first stitch in your foundation double crochet.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

7. Insert the hook in the chain part of the previous stitch, as indicated by the arrow in the picture above. This can be a tad hard to make out. Yarn over and draw through both strands of the stitch.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

8. Chain one stitch, again making sure not to make this one too tight.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

9. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on your hook.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

10. Yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on your hook.

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Repeat steps 7-10 as often as needed! And this is what your foundation double crochet (fdc) should look like:

Working foundation double crochet (fdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

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tutorial: foundation half double crochet (fhdc)

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

In another post, I have already shown you how to make a foundation row based on single crochet stitches. I really like this method of a chainless start of my crochet projects for all the reasons already explained in the other post. In this post I will show you how to make a half double crochet foundation row or fhdc for short.

This is a type of foundation row I use a lot myself, because I really like the fabric hdc stitches produce: not too dense, as is often the case with sc stitches. And not too holey either as a dc based fabric usually is. Exactly right as far as I’m concerned!

In a pattern, you may find the following instruction for fhdc:

Foundation half double crochet: make a slip knot and place onto hook, ch 3, yo and insert hook into both lps of the third st from hook, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook, *yo, insert hook in ch part of previous st, yo and draw through st, ch 1, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook; rep from *.

Foundation half double crochet step by step

Below you can find the various steps and accompanying pictures. Please note that American crochet terminology is used in this tutorial.

1. Make a slip knot and chain 3.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

2. Insert the hook from right to left under the top strands of the third chain from the hook.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

3. Yarn over and draw through those top strands indicated above.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

4. Chain one stitch, make sure to make this one not too tight, because here you create the “chain” part of your foundation row.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

5. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on your hook. This completes the first stitch in your foundation half double crochet.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

6. Insert the hook in the chain part of the previous stitch, this can be a tad hard to make out.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

7. Yarn over and draw through both strands indicated above.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

8. Chain one stitch, make sure again to make this one not too tight.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

9. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Repeat steps 6-9 as often as needed!

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

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free pattern: fun crochet coasters

Fun Crochet Coasters

Sometimes it’s just fun to dress up the table a bit. And what is better suited for that than these fun crochet coasters? I used small amounts of cotton left over from previous projects, making them easily washable. Of course, other types of yarn would also work perfectly fine. A very cheerful way to use up those little ends of yarn!

This pattern is written in American English crochet terminology.

Materials

  • A small amount of sport weight yarn. In the sample coasters, Wibra Nova was used (100% mercerized cotton; 110 m (120 yds) / 50 g), per coaster 11 m (12 yds) / 5 g in the main color and 7 m (8 yds) / 3 g in the contrast color.
  • Crochet hook size 3.5 mm (US # E/4).
Fun crochet coasters - a free pattern by La Visch Designs

Special stitches

  • Popcorn stitch: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull lp through st, yo, pull lp through first 2 lp’s on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all lps on hook (popcorn made).
  • Beg popcorn: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st or sp, yo, pull lp through st, yo, pull lp through first 2 lp’s on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all lps on hook (popcorn made)

Instructions

Round 1: With CC ch 1, 6 sc in first ch and sl st closed to first sc (6 sts).
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st, sl st to first ch of round (12 sts).
Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc), 1 sc in 1st st, *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from *, sl st to turning ch (19 sts).
Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), beg popcorn in 1st st, ch 2, skip next st, *1 popcorn in next st, ch 2, skip next st; rep from *, sl st to top of first popcorn.
Break yarn.

Round 5: With MC ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in top of popcorn, *3 dc in next ch-2 sp, 2 dc in top of next popcorn; rep from *, end with 3 dc in last ch-2 sp, sl st to 3rd ch of turning ch.
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in 1st st, *1 dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to last 4 sts, 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, sl st to 3rd ch of turning ch.
Break yarn and weave in ends.

In what colors will you be making your fun crochet coasters?

Fun crochet coasters - a free pattern by La Visch Designs

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wide horizon boatneck tee

Wide Horizon Boatneck Tee in I like Crochet

In the June 2015 issue of I Like Crochet summer is welcomed with bright new patterns. For the “Sweet and Stylish Tanks and Cardis” section in this issue, I have designed an easy and fun tee pattern. You can find the Wide Horizon Boatneck Tee in I Like Crochet. Photo courtesy of I like Crochet Magazine.

This striking top is an oversized, drapey boatneck tee that boasts a playful stripe pattern. The tee also has decorative outside seams and slit shoulder detail that makes this tee a perfect garment for a breezy summer day. The simple construction makes it suitable for crocheters of all levels, and provides a versatile and easy to wear garment.

White Horizone Boatneck Tee detail

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tutorial: foundation single crochet (fsc)

Many crochet patterns start with the instruction to work a foundation chain followed by working either a single crochet, half double crochet or double crochet into each chain. Personally, I don’t care much for this way of starting a project: I lose count of the initial number of chains, the chain stitches are fiddly to insert your hook into and getting the tension right is just hard. I usually end up with an edge that is either too tight or too loose.

That is why when I learned about foundation rows, I never looked back. When making a foundation row, both the foundation chain and first row of your project are in effect made simultaneously. This makes it easy to keep track of the number of stitches worked and the tension just right.

A foundation row can be worked with a variety of stitches including (but not limited to) single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet. The below tutorial focuses on making a Foundation Single Crochet or FSC. Please note that American crochet terminology is used.

In a pattern, you may find the following instruction:

Foundation single crochet: make a slip knot and place onto hook, ch 2, insert hook into both lps of the second ch from hook, yo and draw through, ch 1, yo and draw through both lps on hook, *insert hook in ch part of previous st, yo and draw through, ch 1, yo and draw through both lps on hook; rep from *.

Working foundation single crochet step by step

1. Make a slip knot and chain 2.

Blog S Visch_FSC_1

2. Insert the hook from right to left under the top strands of the second chain from the hook.

Blog S Visch_FSC_2

3. Yarn over and draw through those top strands indicated above.

Blog S Visch_FSC_3

4. Chain one stitch, make sure to make this one not too tight because here you create the “chain” part of your foundation row.

Blog S Visch_FSC_4

5. Yarn over and draw through both loops on your hook. This completes the first stitch in your foundation single crochet.

Blog S Visch_FSC_5

6. Insert the hook in the chain part of the previous stitch, this can be a tad hard to make out. In the below picture I’ve indicated that part with the arrow. On your hook are now 2 strands and 1 loop.

Blog S Visch_FSC_6

7. Yarn over and draw through both strands indicated above.

Blog S Visch_FSC_7

8. Chain one stitch, make sure again to make this one not too tight.

Blog S Visch_FSC_8

9. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.

Blog S Visch_FSC_9

Repeat steps 6-9 as needed.

Hope you find the foundation single crochet as useful as I do!

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kimono wrap revisited

kimono wrap revisited by La Visch Designs

Kimono Wrap Revisited: a highly customizable crochet wrap pattern with sizes ranging from 3 months to 10 years and multiple options for finishing and closures. Make it in a camouflage variegated yarn or make a very girly version in pink with a picot or shell edging. Anything is possible!

This kimono wrap is worked back and forth from the top down in one piece, with either single crochet, reverse single crochet, picot or shell neck and hem finishing. You can add cute ties, or loops and buttons, to fasten. You can make it sleeveless, or with long sleeves.

This pattern is written in American English crochet terminology.


Pay what you want: (minimum €7.10)

Add to cart


Sizing

Kimono Wrap Revisited includes the following baby, toddler and children’s sizes: 3M (6M, 12M, 18M), 2, 3, 4, {6, 8, 10}. The pattern includes approx. 8 to 9 cm (3 ¼ to 3 ½ inches) of positive ease.

Difficulty

Techniques used consist of half double crochet foundation row, hdc, hdc increases and hdc decreases. Because of this the pattern is suitable for the advanced beginner.

Pattern details

  • Top-down
  • Gauge: 15.6 stitches and 12.7 rows = 4 inches in hdc
  • Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie)
  • Digital PDF has 4 pages (A4 size)

Yarn

Yarn in DK weight in the following quantities:

  • MC short sleeve version: 255 (285, 300, 350), 385, 420, 475, {550, 660, 795} m or 280 (310, 330, 385), 420, 460, 520, {600, 720, 870} yds.
  • MC long sleeve version: 325 (365, 405, 455), 505, 550, 620, {715, 855, 1020} m or 355 (400, 445, 385), 500, 550, 600, {680, 935, 1115} yds.
  • CC both versions: 65 (70, 70, 75), 80, 80, 85, {90, 95, 105} m or 70 (75, 75, 80), 85, 85, 95, {95, 105, 115} yds.

Materials

  • Size 4.0 mm (G) crochet hook
  • Yarn needle
  • 4 removable stitch markers
  • 2 size 2.5 cm (1 inch) button (optional)

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roll it up & go crochet hook case – free pattern

Roll it up & go crochet hook case

When I learned to crochet I soon found the need to store my rapidly increasing stash of crochet hooks. But where? Make it myself of course! Since I have hooks from very thin to very thick I wanted to have one in which I can easily adjust the size of the pockets. The pattern for this Roll it Up & Go crochet hook case is written more as a template instead of exact instructions.

This pattern is written in American English crochet terminology.

Difficulty

Techniques used consist of ch, sc and slst. Because of this, the pattern is suitable for the beginner.

Materials

  • Less than 1 skein of yarn of choice
  • Even less in yarn of the same weight in a contrasting color
  • Crochet hook size 3.5 mm (US # E)
  • Crochet hook size 4 mm (US # G).

Finished Size

Any size you want it to be!

Gauge

Depends on the size desired and yarn used.

Notes

The main body of this hook case consists of a rectangle shape worked in Sc in the front loops only to get a more thin and flexible fabric.

Instructions for the roll it up & go crochet hook case

The body of the hook case

Ch a length equal to the length of the longest hook you want to keep in the case + 10 cm (4 inch) for the pockets. Let’s call that amount of chains “A”. In my case A was equal to 51 sts. Make sure your A is an uneven number. Ch 1, turn.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. Work the sc in the single bump on the back of the chain for a finishing that will look the same on both ends of the rectangle.

Row 2: Sc (in front loops only!) in each sc for (A minus 3) / 2 sts, 1 sc in both loops of st, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in both loops of st, sc in front loops only in each sc across, ch 1, turn

Repeat row 2 until you have twice the number of crochet hooks you want to keep in the case + 12. It is however always wise to make it bigger than you think you’ll possibly be needing. Fasten off.

Create the pocket

First, sc along one of the sides of the rectangle (perpendicular to the rows) with a contrasting color. I used orange. Then fasten off.

Next, fold up the side you just worked on perpendicular to the rows. Doing this will make a pocket, make sure the pocket is approx. 5 cm (2 inch). Fasten onto the crease with a slip stitch. Sc up the side of the pocket, making sure to crochet through both the upper and lower row. When you reach the end of the pocket, continue to sc up the side of the case, along the upper edge and down the other side. Then crochet both rows together again.
Fasten off.

Holding the hooks in place

In the middle of the rectangle, the [ 1 sc in both loops of stitch, ch 1, skip 1 sc, 1 c in both loops of stitch] part created a line with “holes” in the fabric. These holes will be used to slip stitch the “holding” part of the hook case onto the rectangle. Up to 5 mm hooks, I use 1 st loop to hold the hook down. For bigger hooks skip 1 or even 2 holes and adjust the tension of your yarn to make a slip stitch loop big enough to accommodate the bigger hook.
By using a contrasting color you can at any time in the future rework this part to fit more (or less) smaller or bigger hooks.

Hold your yarn at the back of your work (the outside of your crochet hook case). Push your hook into the work from the front to the back at the edge of the rectangle where column with the holes begins. Hook the yarn from behind your work and bring the new loop to the front. Be sure to hold on to the loose end of yarn!

Then, again push your hook through the fabric to the back, hook the yarn and bring it to the front of your work. This time bring your newly formed loop through the old one. Be careful not to pull the yarn too much or the fabric will pucker. When you reach the other side of the rectangle, fasten off.

Closure

In my Roll it Up & Go crochet hook case I used ties to keep it closed. Of course feel free to use buttons or something else instead.

With the larger hook make a chain big enough to wrap around your hook case when rolled up plus extra to tie into a bow. Also, add about 20 extra chains, the chain will end up shorter than it initially is. A total of 40 to 50 cm (16 to 17 inches) will probably be enough.

Next, switch to the smaller hook and slipstitch in the second chain from the hook and till the end. Fasten off.
Repeat for second tie.

Finishing

Sew the ties to the outside of the Roll it Up & Go crochet hook case as pictured. Weave in ends and fill your hook case up with crochet hooks.

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