Double moss stitch, like moss stitch and seed stitch, is a classic textured knitting stitch. It’s a very simple stitch pattern, using only knits and purls. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 4 stitches. Because the patterning alternates knits and purls, it creates a fabric that does not curl. This makes it a very lovely alternative for garter stitch or rib stitch to create non-rolling edges for your project. Also, because it’s virtually the same on both sides of the fabric, it’s a very good choice for those cases where both sides can be visible.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage Pink.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
As you can see, rows 1 and 2 and the same, as are rows 3 and 4. This is a very simple stitch pattern that can really help you learn how to read your knitting. Try it!
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The bamboo stitch is a wonderfully textured stitch. It looks very similar to bamboo shoots, with the horizontal lines dividing the sections. Hence, the name of this stitch pattern. Also, it’s much easier to work than it looks like. It can be used as all-over patterning in for example dish cloths or blankets. But it would also work very well as a strategically placed accent in a bigger project. It is a simple 2-row repeat, worked over a multiple of 2 stitches.
Let’s get started!
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Tea Rose.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
On an even number of stitches, work the following 2 rows for the pattern:
Row 1 (RS): *Yo, k2, pass the yo over both k sts; rep from * to end.
Row 2: (WS): Purl.
Bamboo stitch instructions – worked in the round
On an even number of stitches, work the following 2 rounds for the pattern:
Round 1: *Yo, k2, pass the yo over both k sts; rep from * to end of round.
Round 2: Knit.
The step of lifting the yo over the 2 knit stitches, and the result of that, can be seen in the 2 pictures below.
Insert knitting needle into the yoand lift it over the 2 knit stitches
The result
Viewed from the right side of the fabric:
Viewed from the wrong side of the fabric:
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
Moss stitch, like seed stitch, is a classic textured knitting stitch. It’s a very simple stitch pattern, using only knits and purls. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 4 stitches. Because the patterning alternates knits and purls, it creates a fabric that does not curl. This makes it a very lovely alternative for garter stitch or rib stitch to create non-rolling edges for your project. Also, because it’s virtually the same on both sides of the fabric, it’s a very good choice for those cases where both sides can be visible.
A good thing to keep in mind when working moss stitch, is that this is a stitch pattern where you always purl the knits and knit the purls. No matter if you’re working the wrong side or the right side of the fabric, working flat back and forth or in the round. My post about “knit the knits and purl the purls” gives you some pointers on how to read your knitting to make this easier.
Ok, let’s get started!
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage Pink.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
Herringbone stitch is a stitch pattern that creates a woven looking fabric. It creates a very thick and dense fabric, for that reason it’s often used for home decor projects, or items like scarfs and cowls. Because it is so dense, it’s strongly advised to use a much larger size of needles than you may usually use for that particular yarn. In this tutorial, I will be using a fingering weight yarn with size 4 mm (US 6) needles. But I can already tell you that going up another size wouldn’t have been a mistake. Of course, it all depends on your preference.
There are various ways to work herringbone stitch. As far as I know, they all boil down to a left leaning decrease on the right side of the fabric, of which only 1 loop is slipped off. This is followed by a decrease worked on the wrong side, that shows as a right leaning decrease on the right side of the fabric. Of this, again, only 1 loop is slipped off every time the decrease is worked. There are many left leaning and right leaning decreases, so that absolutely explains a lot of the variations in working the herringbone stitch. In this example, I will be using k2tog tbl as my left-leaning decrease, and p2tog as my right-leaning decrease.
Materials used
Yarn: Leftovers from my Sunglow Forest shawl, it’s Fleece Artist Merino Slim (100% Merino wool; 400 m (437 yds) / 115 g) in “Minegold”
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
For this particular stitch pattern, there is no specific multiple needed for the patterning to work out. So, cast on any number of stitches.
To start, insert the needle through the back loop of the first 2 stitches on the left-handle needle.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
… and pull it through both loops.
Don’t let the loops drop off the needle yet! See that I use my finger to hold the second loop from the tip fixed against the needle?
Drop the loop, and only the loop closest to the needle tip, off the needle.
Repeat steps 1 to 4 until there is 1 stitch left in the row.
Knit this last stitch.
Next, we can turn the work to start the WS instructions.
Now insert the needle purl wise through the first two stitches on the left-hand needle.
Wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle….
… pull the yarn through the 2 stitches.
Again, I use my finger to hold the second loop from the tip fixed against the needle.
This is how it looks after I’ve dropped the loop closest to the needle tip, off the needle.
Repeat steps 6 to 9, until there is 1 stitch left in the row.
Purl this last stitch.
Repeat steps 1-10 for the stitch pattern.
The result
Viewed from the right side of the fabric:
Viewed from the wrong side of the fabric:
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
This post will give you the instructions for working seed stitch. It’s a very simple stitch pattern, using only knits and purls. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 2 stitches. Because the patterning alternates knits and purls, it creates a fabric that does not curl. This makes it a very lovely alternative for garter stitch or rib stitch to create non-rolling edges for your project.
A good thing to keep in mind when working seed stitch, is that this is a stitch pattern where you always purl the knits and knit the purls. No matter if you’re working the wrong side or the right side of the fabric, over an even or an odd number of stitches, work flat back and forth or in the round. My post about “knit the knits and purl the purls” gives you some pointers on how to read your knitting to make this easier.
Ok, let’s get started!
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 155 Vintage Pink.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
Seed stitch instructions – even number of stitches
On an even number of stitches, work the following 2 rows for the pattern:
Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: (wrong side): *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
Seed stitch instructions – odd number of stitches
In the case of an odd number of stitches, work the following instead:
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Repeat row 1 for all following rows.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
This post will give you the instructions for working the right slanting diagonal rib pattern. As its left slanting counterpart, it works well both as all-over patterning, as well as an alternative for regular rib as finishing for hems and sleeves. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 6 stitches.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 125 Spearmint Green.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
Row 2: (wrong side): *K1, p3, k2 rep from * to end.
Row 3: *P1, k3, p2; rep from * to end.
Row 4: *K3, p3; rep from * to end.
Row 5: *K2, p3, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 6: *P2, k3, p1; rep from * to end.
Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
Small Shale is the smallest variation of the Old Shale stitch pattern, which is a traditional Shetland stitch pattern. Sets of decreases are alternated with sets of yarn over increases, creating a lovely wavy edge of both the bottom and top of the fabric. Because this patterning also contains some garter stitch, the fabric tends to lay flat. For this reason, Small Shale is very suitable for things like hems and edgings. This stitch pattern is worked in a multiple of 11 + 2 stitches. Please note that in the above picture, I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color Vintage Pink.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
Row 1 (right side): K1, *k2tog twice, (yo, k1) 3 times, yo, skp twice; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2: (wrong side): Purl.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: Knit.
Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
This post is about working the left slanting diagonal rib pattern. It works well both as all-over patterning, as well as an alternative for regular rib as finishing for hems and sleeves. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 6 stitches.
Materials used
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 125 Spearmint Green.
Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.
Row 2: (wrong side): *K2, p3, k1 rep from * to end.
Row 3: *P2, k3, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 4: *P3, k3; rep from * to end.
Row 5: *K1, p3, k2; rep from * to end.
Row 6: *P1, k3, p2; rep from * to end.
Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern.
Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.
The star stitch is a very pretty stitch, which also gives projects a lovely texture. You may also have heard of this stitch by the name of “Marguerite Stitch”. In this post, I will show you how to crochet the reversible half-star version. This means that each side of the fabric will show half a star, giving a completely reversible fabric. Instructions are also given to transform it into the full-star, non-reversible star stitch.
The star stitch is worked as a multiple of 2 + 1 + stitches plus three turning chains. If you want to work this stitch on an existing piece in another stitch pattern, start with a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches and 3 turning chains before you turn your work and starting the first row in star stitch.
It is of course also possible to crochet the star stitch in the round. In that case, work a multiple of 2 + 1 stitches and crochet the 3 turning chains after joining in the round.
In this post I’ll show you how to work the star stitch as a flat piece working back and forth. These instructions are written in American English crochet terminology.
The star stitch step by step
First row
1. In this example, I crochet the star stitch directly on the starting chain, which I made 16 chains long.
2. When inserting the hook in a chain stitch, there are of course several options on where in the stitch exactly to insert your hook. However, for the best result in this stitch, I would suggest inserting your hook in the single bumps at the back of the starting chain.
First star
3. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook and pull up a loop.
4. Also repeat step 3 for the third to sixth chain from the hook. Take care to pull up the last few loops a little bit longer than the first ones. You now have 6 loops on your hook.
5. Make a yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook.
6. Crochet 1 chain, your first star is now done.
Second star
7. To start the next star, insert your hook in the chain just made and pull up a loop.
8. Then insert the hook under the two loops you can see on the side of the last pulled up loop from the previous star and pull a loop.
9. Now insert your hook in the last chain of the starting chain in which the previous star was made. This was the sixth chain from the hook. Pull up a loop.
10. To complete all the loops for the second star, insert the hook into the next chain from the starting chain and pull a loop. This was the seventh chain from the hook. Repeat for the eighth chain from the hook. Remember to make these last loops a bit longer again than the previous loops. You now have again six loops on the hook.
11. Make a yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook. Crochet 1 chain, this completes the second star.
12. Repeat steps 7 to 11 until the end of the row. You can clearly see in this example how pretty the bottom edge is, because I have worked in the back bumps of the starting chain.
Second row For the full-star non-reversible version of the star stitch, work a full row in sc or hdc before continuing with steps 13 to 16.
13. Crochet 3 chains and turn work. Make sure you do not crochet these chains too tight, because you will crochet into them later on.
14. Insert your hook in the second chain from the hook (in the bump on the back of the turning chain!) and pull up a loop. Repeat for the third chain from the hook. Next pull up loops in the first, second and third stitches from the previous row.
15. Make a yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook. Crochet 1 chain, this completes the first star of the second row.
16. For the next stars of this row, repeat steps 7 to 11. To pull up the last loop for the last star of the row, you insert the hook in the chain that you skipped when making the first star of the previous row. Depending on how loose your turning chain was made, this may be a bit tight …
17. Repeat steps 13 to 16 for the rest of your project. For the full-star non-reversible version of the star stitch, work a full row in sc or hdc before every repeat of steps 13 to 16.
