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pijl hat

The Pijl hat is a lovely unisex hat with stranded color work. With only two colors, this hat knits up super quick. Due to the simple colorwork design, it is also a great first stranded project for anyone who has never attempted this technique before.

This pattern contains instructions for a whopping 9 sizes, ranging from Preemie to Adult Large. The Pijl hat is knit completely seamless and from the bottom up. The color work pattern for the body of the hat is in charted form only. All other instructions are in written form.

Pay what you want: (minimum €4.90)

€

Difficulty level

Stitches used include k, p, k2tog and the M1 increase. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Size and finished measurements

Preemie (Newborn, 6M Baby, 12M Baby, Toddler) {Child, S, M, L} with resulting circumference of approx. 29 (36.5, 40, 43.5, 47.5) {51, 54.5, 54.5, 58} cm (11 ¾ (14 ½, 16, 17 ½, 19) {20 ¼, 21 ¾, 21 ¾, 23 ¼} inches) in the body of the hat.

When choosing your hat size, take 2.5-5 cm (1-2 inches) of negative ease into account.

Pattern details

Gauge: 22 sts / 24 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over stranded stockinette on larger needles.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie).
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size).

Materials

Yarn: GGH Maxima [100% merino wool; 111 m (121 yds) / 50 g] in 2 colors:
MC: 33 (52, 65, 77, 85) {106, 121, 138, 155} m (36 (56, 70, 85, 93) {114, 132, 150, 169} yds) – green in sample.
CC: 22 (51, 56, 62, 67) {71, 113, 113, 120} m (24 (56, 61, 68, 73) {77, 123, 123, 131} yds) – blue in sample.
Substitute any DK weight yarn for a similar result.
Knitting needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round in the following sizes (or to match gauge): Size 3.5 mm (US 4) and size 4 mm (US 6)
Yarn needle
7 stitch markers
1 differently colored end-of-round stitch marker

pijl hat Read More »

dyeing with natural dyes: part 1 – washing the wool

Dyeing wool with food coloring like Easter egg dyes is of course a lot of fun and very easy to do. Lately, however, the possibilities of natural dyes intrigue me. Think of onion skins, indigo, madder, annatto and logwood.

In order to get good results with natural dyes, more steps are required, than with food coloring. In this series of posts I will guide you through the various steps and take you along with a natural dye experiment. Before I proceed I must tell you that I am by no means an expert in this area. I’m only sharing what I have learned in my own experiments!

The steps to go through are as follows:

Today we are going to discuss the preparations with respect to washing the wool. Of course, it is also useful to know what materials are needed!

Materials

Collecting the required materials is obviously an important step. However, this step I haven’t included in the above overview, because what will be required depends very much on the choices made with respect to your natural dyes of choice.

Things you will however (almost) always need are:

Protein (animal-based) fibers, such as wool or silk or cellulose (plant-based) fibers, such as cotton, linen, or hemp. Man-made fibers like acrylics can’t be dyed this way!
Pieces of waste yarn to tie up your yarn into skeins.
Detergent (without enzymes).
The natural dyes or dye material.
A mordant like alum. This is used to help the dye adhere to the fiber and helps in achieving bright colours.
For warm dyeing: A stainless steel or enamelled pan which will not be used for cooking anymore.
For cold dyeing: Glass jars in the number or volume big enough for the amount of wool that you want to dye.
Old nylons or other material to make a “tea bag” for your dye material.
Rubber gloves, stainless steel spoons.

a. Washing the wool

If you buy wool yarn, you may be inclined to dye without washing it. There is however a chance that there is a reasonable amount of lanolin, spin oil or other debris still present on the yarn. This makes it difficult for the dye to penetrate well into the fiber. This in turn results in your wool having less vivid colors and being a less colorfast.
For best results, wash first is the motto.

1. In this experiment I used Lettlopi, it is sold in the lovely put-up shown. However, when washing like this, the yarn will tangle beyond hope. Therefore it is wise to rewind first into skeins. I use my niddy noddy, but the yarn can of course also, for example, be wound around the back of a chair.

And yes, I know that my niddy noddy isn’t used “correctly” in this picture. I prefer using it this way because I like the length of the skein it gives. Fortunately, there is no such thing as wool-police!

2. To ensure that the skeined yarn does not tangle, tie it together with some waste yarn in several places. Do not tie it too tight, this may prevent the dye from fully penetrating the wool in those spots. I do this as follows four places:

The entire skein then looks like this:

3. Now we go on to the washing! Use water of at least 60 C or 140 F for best results. I use water as hot as it comes out of the tap. If this is not very hot in your case, add a splash of boiling water from the kettle or stove. Add a dash of detergent and then the wool. Use detergent without enzymes, since these would damage the wool. Strongly agitating the wet could felt it, but gentle stirring should not be a problem.

Allow the wool to stand for about 15 to 20 minutes, but don’t let it cool down completely. Any lanolin dissolved in the water could then precipitate again on the wool.

4. Now it’s time to rinse the wool with warm water. Do not rinse with cold water, a big difference in temperature from hot to cold can felt your wool!

After rinsing it is time to proceed to the next step: mordanting the wool. More on this in my next post!

dyeing with natural dyes: part 1 – washing the wool Read More »

tutorial: knitting the loopy bind-off

Knitting the loopy bind-off - a tutorial by La Visch Designs - www.lavisch.com

In this post I want to show you a variation of the i-cord BO: the loopy bind-off. With a regular i-cord BO you work directly over all stitches, binding them off. With the loopy bind-off loops of i-cord are made in between the stitches that are to be bound off. This does not only give a highly decorative edge, but is also a very elastic finishing. For this reason, this would be a nice BO to use on items like shawls, that have to be blocked quite aggressively for the best results.

Similar to regular i-cord (click here for the post about it!), this stitch can be knit over 3, 4 or 5 stitches. The more stitches, the fatter the resulting i-cord will be. The number of stitches also affects the loops in this bind-off: if you want to knit the i-cord for the loops over 3 stitches, you will need a multiple of 3 stitches to bind-off.

To knit the loopy bind-off, you need a set of knitting needles, plus one extra needle in the same size. It can be worked on both the good and the wrong side of the work. In this example I’m binding off a small swatch in garter stitch.

The loopy bind-off step by step

1. Use the first 3 stitches on the left needle to knit regular i-cord. You can decide how long to make the cord, as long as it is equal for all loops. In this example I made cord with a length of 3.5 cm, which was 10 rows.

2. Next, bring the needle with the i-cord stitches parallel to the needle with the stitches to be bound off, by twisting it counterclockwise.

3. Insert the third needle into the first stitch on the front needle, then immediately also into the first stitch of the back needle. Wind the yarn around the needle as usual, pull the yarn through both stitches and then slip off the first stitch of both the front and back needle. This is really very similar to working a three-needle BO.

4. Repeat step 3 twice.

5. Next, slip the 3 newly knitted stitches back to the left-hand needle.

6. Repeat steps 1 to 5 until 3 stitches remain on the left-hand needle. Next, repeat steps 1 and 2 once more.

7. Work step 3 twice, you now have 2 stitches on the right-hand needle.

8. Pass the first stitch over the second stitch, you now have 1 stitch remaining on the right-hand needle.

9. Repeat step 3 once more, followed by 1 repetition of step 8. All stitches are now cast off, you can now cut the yarn and pull the tail through the last loop.

This is how the loopy bind-off edge will look like on the right side of the work:

And this is how it looks on the wrong side of the work:

Depending on the desired effect you can use either the right or wrong side of this bind-off.

And that is all there is to it!

tutorial: knitting the loopy bind-off Read More »

bloem

Bloem is a cute hat with stranded color work depicting little flowers. With only two colors, this hat knits up super quick and is a great first stranded project for anyone who has never attempted this technique before.

The Bloem hat pattern contains instructions for a whopping 9 sizes, ranging from Preemie to Adult Large. The Bloem hat is completely seamless and knitted from the bottom up. The color work pattern for the body of the hat is provided charted only. All other instructions are in written form.

Pay what you want: (minimum €4.90)

€

Difficulty level

Bloem is seamless and knit in the round from the bottom up. This pattern involves following a color chart and working in stranded knitting. An alternative technique for creating the design is to duplicate stitch this design onto the hat after knitting.

Stitches used include knit, purl, k2tog and the M1 increase. This pattern is suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Size and finished measurements

Preemie (Newborn, 6M Baby, 12M Baby, Toddler) {Child, S, M, L} with resulting circumference of approx. 30 (37, 40.5, 44.5, 48.5) {51.5, 54, 55, 59} cm (11 ¾ (14 ½, 16, 17 ½, 19) {20 ¼, 21 ¼, 21 ¾, 23 ¼} inches) in the body of the hat.

When choosing your hat size, take 2.5-5 cm (1-2 inches) of negative ease into account.

Pattern details

Gauge: 22 sts / 24 rounds = 10 cm (4 inches) over stranded stockinette on larger needles.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie).
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size).

Materials

Yarn: GGH Maxima [100% merino wool; 111 m (121 yds) / 50 g] in 2 colors:
MC: 29 (49, 59, 68, 76) {93, 111, 121, 140) m (32 (54, 64, 75, 82) {102, 121, 131, 152} yds)
CC: 40 (47, 47, 49, 49) {51, 60, 60, 62} m (44 (51, 51, 53, 53) {56, 65, 65, 68} yds)
Substitute any DK weight yarn for a similar result.
Knitting needles in your preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round in the following sizes (or to match gauge): Size 3.5 mm (US 4) and size 4 mm (US 6)
Yarn needle
7 stitch markers
1 differently colored end-of-round stitch marker

bloem Read More »

robijn in ‘handwerken zonder grenzen’

The Robijn lacy wrap is designed to give an extra bit of glamour to your outfit. Great for that special night out! Robijn can be made as a scarf or stole. The width and length are easily adjusted for further customization. This design is suitable for any drapey lace-weight or fingering-weight yarn.

I’m proud to tell you, that this design has been published in issue 198 of the Dutch magazine Handwerken Zonder Grenzen! You can order this issue in Dutch here.

This pattern is also available in both English and Dutch through La Visch Designs!

robijn in ‘handwerken zonder grenzen’ Read More »

Indie Design Gift-A-Long 2016

It is finally Gift-A-Long time again! I’m very excited to announce that the Gift-A-Long 2016 (or GAL for short) has started. This year I’m of course also participating again as both a designer and knitter/crocheter. However, I’m still trying to decide what patterns to buy and make myself.

What is the Gift-A-Long 2016?

The Indie Design Gift-A-Long is a 6-week long international event hosted in the Indie Design Gift-A-Long Group on Ravelry. Thousands of knitters and crocheters come together in Knit-A-Longs (KAl’s) and Crochet-A-Longs (CAL’s). The goal is to get our holiday knitting/crocheting done using patterns designed by participating independent designers. In the statistics overview below you can see (besides are fun facts) that a whopping 335 designers participate!

From November 22, 2016, at 8:00 pm US EST to December 31, 2016, at midnight US EST there are fun games, contests, and 8 KAL/CAL’s. The KAL/CAL’s are a wonderful way to make your gifts, either for yourself or for others. Lot’s of chatting and cheering are also a big part of the GAL because enthusiastic company makes those needles and hooks really fly.

There are multiple categories for projects, and chat threads for each of these. Any design by a participating designer is eligible for joining in. Any paid (not free) pattern from these designers is eligible for winning prizes. Prizes are won through fun games, random draws, and trivia questions. And splendid prizes they are! In this thread, there is an overview of physical prizes donated.

The GAL sale

In addition to the KAL/CAL’s, there is of course also the GAL sale. The Gift-A-Long 2016 kicks off with the Giant Gift-A-Long Sale: From November 22nd, 8 pm EST to November 30th, 11:59 EST, participating Indie Designers are offering between 5 and 20 of their independently published patterns at 25% off. To take advantage of the sale, use the coupon code: giftalong2016.

A full list of participating designers can be found here. In the picture below you can see some of the participating designers by location. The complete map with all Gift-A-Long 2016 designers is here. A wonderful handy searchable bundle of all sale patterns is also available.

In conclusion: the Gift-A-Long is a wonderful event that you really can’t miss. Most of all because it is just soooo much fun.

See you in the GAL!

Indie Design Gift-A-Long 2016 Read More »

robijn

This lacy wrap is designed to give an extra bit of glamour to your outfit on that special night out. Robijn can be made as a scarf or stole, the width and length are easily adjusted for further customization This design is suitable for any drapey lace-weight or fingering-weight yarn. Robijn has also been published in issue 198 of the Dutch magazine Handwerken Zonder Grenzen! You can order this issue in Dutch here.

The body of this shawl has an easy-to-remember two-row repeat which makes it a great traveling project. The instructions are both fully charted and written out.
This pattern uses standard American English crochet terminology.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

Stitches used within this pattern are of sc, dc, slst and ch st.
This pattern is suitable for the intermediate crocheter.

Size and finished measurements

Size S (L) – measurements after blocking: 26 (52) cm [10 ¼ (20 ½) inches] wide and 153 cm (60 ¼ inches) long.

Pattern details

Gauge is not critical with this design, for the sample stole: 18.5 sts and 7.5 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches over lace pattern after blocking.
Pattern languages included: English and Dutch (Dit patroon omvat zowel een Nederlandse als een Engelse versie).
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size).

Materials

250 (505) m or 275 (552) yds lace-weight yarn. The sample is in Diversan Tencel [100% Tencel; 777 m (850 yds) / 100 g] in Rio Red. Substitute a smooth silk, cotton or viscose for a similar result.
For the sample Robijn Stole a 5 mm (US size G/8) hook was used.
Yarn needle.

robijn Read More »

tutorial: knitting a bobble bind-off

In a previous blog I’ve already shown you how to cast on your knitting project with decorative bobbles. Of course we also want to know how to knit the matching bobble bind-off. You never know when it comes in handy!

There are many different types of bobbles possible for this application. However, you want a reasonably “fat” bobble for the best result, because these makes the bobble “pop” better.

In short an instruction for such a bobble would will be as follows:

Bobble of 5 stitches: Work [k1, yo, k1 , yo, k1] all in the same st. Turn work, p1, p1 tbl, p1, p1 tbl, p1. Turn and k5. Turn work, and p5. Turn work, k5, * pass second st on the right hand needle over the first stitch; rep from * until 1 st remains – 1 bobble made.

Below I’ll show you step by step how this looks when used at the bind-off edge of your knitting.

Knitting a bobble bind-off step by step

1. Your project is ready and you want to bind-off. First of all, make sure you’re using a multiple of 4+1 stitches plus any edge stitches. In this example I’m using a multiple of 4 + 1 + 2×2 edge stitches for both sides of the work. The 4 stitches consist of 1 stitch for every bobble and 3 stitches distance between each bobble.

2. Make sure you are on the right side of the work and knit 2 stitches. Next pass the second stitch on the right-hand needle over the first stitch to cast it off.

3.In the next stitch we will be making a bobble as follows: Work [k1, yo, k1 , yo, k1] all in the next stitch, without sliding it off prematurely. You now have 6 stitches on the right hand needle, we will knit the bobble over 5 of them.

4. Turn work, p1, p1 tbl, p1, p1 tbl, p1. The “p tbl” stitches are worked that way to close up the yo’s of the previous row. This will make the resulting bobble smoother, this may require some practice!

5. Turn work and knit 5 stitches.

6. Turn work and purl 5 stitches.

7. Turn work again and knit 5 stitches.

8. Now pass the second stitch on the right hand needle over the first stitch, repeat this until only 1 of the 5 bobble stitches remains. You have now created one bobble! You can push it out a bit to the right side of the work to show it to its best advantage. There are now only 2 stitches left on your right hand needle.

9. Next pass the second stitch on the right-hand needle over the first stitch to cast it off.

10. Knit one stitch and again pass the second stitch on the right-hand needle over the first stitch to cast it off. Repeat two more times to bind off 3 stitches in total.

11. Repeat steps 3 to 10 until 3 stitches on the left-hand needle remain.

12. Repeat steps 3 to 9 once more to knit the last bobble and end with binding off the 2 edge stitches.

And this is how the bobble bind-off is done!

tutorial: knitting a bobble bind-off Read More »

cherry blossoms stole

The lovely Cherry Blossoms Stole features a dainty floral lace pattern, perfect to dress up any outfit. Wear it as a shoulder wrap to show off the full stunning flower pattern, or as a simple lacy scarf. Take advantage of a beautiful fingering weight yarn with long color runs, as pictured, for a truly spectacular look.

The instructions for the body pattern are provided both fully charted and written out.
This pattern is written using American English crochet terminology.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

Techniques used consist of foundation single crochet and puff stitches as well as picot. Stitches used in this pattern: ch, sc and dc st.
This pattern is suitable for the intermediate crocheter.

Size and finished measurements

One size – easily adjusted: 177 cm (70 inches) x 39 cm (15 inches), measured after blocking.

Pattern details

Gauge is not critical in this design. For the sample stole: 1 repeat of the lace pattern = 6.3 cm (2.48 inches) wide and 4.4 cm (1.73 inches) high, measured after blocking.
Pattern language included: English.
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size).

Materials

Yarn: 799 m (874 yds) / 200 g Jawoll Magic by Lang Yarns (75% wool, 25% nylon; 400 m (437 yds) / 100 g) in color #1404 Pink. Substitute any fingering weight yarn with long color runs for a similar result.
For the sample Cherry Blossoms Stole a 4 mm (US size G/6) hook was used.
Yarn needle.

cherry blossoms stole Read More »

tutorial: knitting a bobble cast-on

In the series of decorative ways to cast-on a knitting project, I present here the bobble cast-on method. You’re probably already familiar with bobbles as a way to give an interesting 3D texture to your knitting. I used it myself for that purpose in my Moerbei shawl design. It is also possible to make bobbles right on the cast-on edge. Officially, the bobble cast-on is not a “real” cast-on method, because you already cast-on and knit a row before you start the actual bobbles. However, this should not spoil the fun!

To be honest, the only difference between regular bobbles and the bobbles with a bobble cast-on, is that they are knit on the edge of the work. There are many different types of bobbles possible for this application, however, you want a reasonably “fat” bobble for the best result.

In short an instruction for such a bobble would be as follows:

Below I’ll show you step by step how this looks when used at the cast-on edge of your knitting.

Knitting a bobble cast-on step by step

1. Cast-on the required number of stitches, here I used a multiple of 4 + 1 + 2×2 edge stitches for both sides of the work. The 4 stitches consist of 1 stitch for every bobble and 3 stitches distance between each bobble. To cast-on I used the knitted-on method, but any other method would work.

2. Purl 1 row and turn the work.

3. Knit 2 stitches for the edge to the side.

4. Work [k1, yo, k1 , yo, k1] all in the next stitch, without sliding it off prematurely. You now have 7 stitches on the right hand needle, we will knit the bobble over 5 of them.

5. Turn work, p1, p1 tbl, p1, p1 tbl, p1. The “p tbl” stitches are worked to close up the yo’s of the previous row. This will make the outside surface of the resulting bobble smoother, this may require some practice!

6. Again turn your work and knit 5 stitches.

7. Next, turn work and purl 5 stitches.

8. Turn work again and knit 5 stitches.

9. Now pass the second stitch on the right hand needle over the first stitch, repeat this until only 1 of the 5 bobble stitches remains. There are now only 3 stitches left on your right hand needle. You have now created one bobble! You can push it out a bit to the right side of the work to show it to its best advantage.

10. Next knit the 3 stitches which I had chosen as the distance between the bobbles.

11. Repeat steps 4 to 10 until only 3 stitches remain on the left hand needle.

12. Repeat steps 4 to 9 once more for the last bobble and finish with knit 2 for the second set of edge stitches.

With this your bobble cast-on is finished!

This is how it looks after a few more rows in stockinette have been knit.

Pretty, isn’t it?

Stay tuned for the tutorial on the matching bobble bind-off!

tutorial: knitting a bobble cast-on Read More »