tutorial: knitting a bobble bind-off

In a previous blog I’ve already shown you how to cast on your knitting project with decorative bobbles. Of course we also want to know how to knit the matching bobble bind-off. You never know when it comes in handy!

There are many different types of bobbles possible for this application. However, you want a reasonably “fat” bobble for the best result, because these makes the bobble “pop” better.

In short an instruction for such a bobble would will be as follows:

Bobble of 5 stitches: Work [k1, yo, k1 , yo, k1] all in the same st. Turn work, p1, p1 tbl, p1, p1 tbl, p1. Turn and k5. Turn work, and p5. Turn work, k5, * pass second st on the right hand needle over the first stitch; rep from * until 1 st remains – 1 bobble made.

Below I’ll show you step by step how this looks when used at the bind-off edge of your knitting.

Knitting a bobble bind-off step by step

1. Your project is ready and you want to bind-off. First of all, make sure you’re using a multiple of 4+1 stitches plus any edge stitches. In this example I’m using a multiple of 4 + 1 + 2×2 edge stitches for both sides of the work. The 4 stitches consist of 1 stitch for every bobble and 3 stitches distance between each bobble.

2. Make sure you are on the right side of the work and knit 2 stitches. Next pass the second stitch on the right-hand needle over the first stitch to cast it off.

3.In the next stitch we will be making a bobble as follows: Work [k1, yo, k1 , yo, k1] all in the next stitch, without sliding it off prematurely. You now have 6 stitches on the right hand needle, we will knit the bobble over 5 of them.

4. Turn work, p1, p1 tbl, p1, p1 tbl, p1. The “p tbl” stitches are worked that way to close up the yo’s of the previous row. This will make the resulting bobble smoother, this may require some practice!

5. Turn work and knit 5 stitches.

6. Turn work and purl 5 stitches.

7. Turn work again and knit 5 stitches.

8. Now pass the second stitch on the right hand needle over the first stitch, repeat this until only 1 of the 5 bobble stitches remains. You have now created one bobble! You can push it out a bit to the right side of the work to show it to its best advantage. There are now only 2 stitches left on your right hand needle.

9. Next pass the second stitch on the right-hand needle over the first stitch to cast it off.

10. Knit one stitch and again pass the second stitch on the right-hand needle over the first stitch to cast it off. Repeat two more times to bind off 3 stitches in total.

11. Repeat steps 3 to 10 until 3 stitches on the left-hand needle remain.

12. Repeat steps 3 to 9 once more to knit the last bobble and end with binding off the 2 edge stitches.

And this is how the bobble bind-off is done!

tutorial: knitting a bobble bind-off Read More »

tutorial: knitting a bobble cast-on

In the series of decorative ways to cast-on a knitting project, I present here the bobble cast-on method. You’re probably already familiar with bobbles as a way to give an interesting 3D texture to your knitting. I used it myself for that purpose in my Moerbei shawl design. It is also possible to make bobbles right on the cast-on edge. Officially, the bobble cast-on is not a “real” cast-on method, because you already cast-on and knit a row before you start the actual bobbles. However, this should not spoil the fun!

To be honest, the only difference between regular bobbles and the bobbles with a bobble cast-on, is that they are knit on the edge of the work. There are many different types of bobbles possible for this application, however, you want a reasonably “fat” bobble for the best result.

In short an instruction for such a bobble would be as follows:

Below I’ll show you step by step how this looks when used at the cast-on edge of your knitting.

Knitting a bobble cast-on step by step

1. Cast-on the required number of stitches, here I used a multiple of 4 + 1 + 2×2 edge stitches for both sides of the work. The 4 stitches consist of 1 stitch for every bobble and 3 stitches distance between each bobble. To cast-on I used the knitted-on method, but any other method would work.

2. Purl 1 row and turn the work.

3. Knit 2 stitches for the edge to the side.

4. Work [k1, yo, k1 , yo, k1] all in the next stitch, without sliding it off prematurely. You now have 7 stitches on the right hand needle, we will knit the bobble over 5 of them.

5. Turn work, p1, p1 tbl, p1, p1 tbl, p1. The “p tbl” stitches are worked to close up the yo’s of the previous row. This will make the outside surface of the resulting bobble smoother, this may require some practice!

6. Again turn your work and knit 5 stitches.

7. Next, turn work and purl 5 stitches.

8. Turn work again and knit 5 stitches.

9. Now pass the second stitch on the right hand needle over the first stitch, repeat this until only 1 of the 5 bobble stitches remains. There are now only 3 stitches left on your right hand needle. You have now created one bobble! You can push it out a bit to the right side of the work to show it to its best advantage.

10. Next knit the 3 stitches which I had chosen as the distance between the bobbles.

11. Repeat steps 4 to 10 until only 3 stitches remain on the left hand needle.

12. Repeat steps 4 to 9 once more for the last bobble and finish with knit 2 for the second set of edge stitches.

With this your bobble cast-on is finished!

This is how it looks after a few more rows in stockinette have been knit.

Pretty, isn’t it?

Stay tuned for the tutorial on the matching bobble bind-off!

tutorial: knitting a bobble cast-on Read More »

tutorial: knitting the i-cord bind-off

In a previous post I’ve already shown you how to cast-on your knitting project with an i-cord cast-on. And of course it would be nice to be able to bind-off with a matching i-cord bind-off finishing. Fortunately, we can!

The i-cord bind-off is usually knit over 3 to 5 stitches. In this example I’m going to show the version made over 3 stitches. In short, instructions would look something like this:

I-cord bind off: Cast-on 3 sts, *k2, k2tog tbl, sl 3 sts just worked back to LH needle, pull yarn tight across back of sts; rep from * until 3 sts remain.
Next: K2tog tbl, k1, sl 2 sts to LH needle, k2tog tbl and fasten off.

The i-cord bind-off step by step

You can start casting off as soon as the last row of your work has been knit, and after your work has been turned when working flat back and forth.

1. With the right side facing, cast-on 3 stitches. I used the knitted-on method.

2. Knit 2 stitches.

3. Knit 2 stitches together through the back loop.

4. Move the 3 stitches on the right needle back to the left hand needle one by one.

5. Pull the yarn tight and make sure that it is behind your work.

6. Repeat steps 2 to 5 until 3 stitches to bind-off remain.

7. Knit 2 stitches together through the back loop.

8. Knit 1 stitch.

9. Move the 2 stitches on the right needle back to the left hand needle one by one.

10 Knit 2 remaining stitches together through the back loop and fasten off.

The “ear” where the yarn was fastened off, can be reduced by using a tapestry needle to pull it into the i-cord tube. Front and back of the work then look as follows:

Tip 1

It can be very nice to knit the i-cord bind-off in a contrasting color to the rest of your project. It may however happen, that the main color shines through in the i-cord BO. To avoid that, I would recommend to first knit a row in the contrast color, before starting the i-cord bind-off.

Tip 2

An i-cord bind-off edge on a piece worked in stockinette stitch is very pretty. As you know however, stockinette tends to curl…. A lot. An i-cord bind-off is usually not sufficient to prevent curling. For this you will have to look at other methods, such as garter stitch or rib. So if you purely want the effect of a stockinette stitch edge to your work, you better have a look at a folded hem.

tutorial: knitting the i-cord bind-off Read More »

tutorial: knitting an i-cord cast-on

Knitting the i-cord cast-on - a tutorial by La Visch Designs

Lately, I have all sorts of methods to cast on my knitting projects on my mind. Some I have already shared with you, think for example of the folded hem, the two-color cast-on, the picot cast-on, the provisional crochet cast-on and of course the Latvian twist. In this post, I want to show you how to knit an i-cord cast-on.

I-cord is usually knit over 3 to 5 stitches. In this example, I’m going to make an i-cord cast-on based on 3 stitches. In short, the instruction would be as follows:

I-cord CO: Cast-on 4 sts. k4, sl 4 sts just worked back to the LH needle, * kfb in next st, k3, sl 4 sts just worked back to the LH needle; rep from * until the desired number of sts has been achieved, plus 3 sts. Next: (k2tog) twice, sl 2 st back to LH needle, k2tog.

Knitting the i-cord cast-on step by step

1. Cast on 4 stitches, in this example I used the knitting-on method.

2. Knit 4 stitches.

3. Slip the 4 newly knitted stitches back to the left-hand needle one by one.

4. Knit the next stitch in front loop and then in the back loop before sliding the off the stitch just worked. Tighten your yarn a bit.

5. Knit 3 stitches.

6. Slip 4 stitches back to the left-hand needle one by one.

7. Repeat steps 4 to 6 until you have the desired number of stitches plus 3.

8. Knit 2 stitches together, twice.

9. Slip 2 stitches back to the left needle.

10. Knit these 2 stitches together.

Now your cast-on is ready and you can start the rest of your project!
This is how it looks at the front and back of the piece:

Notes

For a less “rounded” corner, you can also choose to omit steps 8 to 10. In the last repeat of step 6, slip only 3 stitches back to the left-hand needle and bind these off.

To use this cast-on method for a project knitted in the round, you can also choose to omit steps 8 to 10. In the last repeat of step 6, slip only 3 stitches back to the left-hand needle instead of 4 stitches and place those on a bit of waste yarn. Afterward you can then graft these stitches together with the starting stitches for a seamless connection of the i-cord edge.

This cast-on method also has a matching bind-off!

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

tutorial: knitting an i-cord cast-on Read More »

tutorial: knitting the small flower stitch

Lately I have found myself attracted to stitches that give the fabric a lovely texture. A prime example is the small flower stitch. This stitch is unusual in the sense that it combines decreases with smartly placed elongated knit stitches. It can of course be worked both flat and in the round.
In this post I’ll show you how to work the small flower stitch as a flat piece working back and forth.

The small flower stitch step by step

1. The small flower stitch looks best on a background of stockinette stitch, therefore I have prepared a small stockinette swatch for this example. When planning your project it is good to realise that the flower stitch itself uses 4 stitches and looks best if there are at least 2 normal stitches in between the flowers.

2. Start by knitting to the place where you want the first flower to be.

3. Next, knit the following 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch with a right leaning decrease.

4. Next, work a left leaning decrease over the following 2 stitches. I like to use skp, but ssk can of course also be used if preferred.

5. Knit the stitches separating the flowers (in my case 2 stitches), work another k2tog and skp and knit to end.

6. Work 1 row plain in stockinette, in my flat worked swatch this means purling a row. When working in the round, this would of course be a knit round.

7. Again work to the spot where you want to place the flower, in my case 4 stitches into the row.

8. Now make an elongated knit stitch by inserting the right-hand needle into the space between the next 2 stitches (the k2tog and skp) under the second thread down. This is the thread that runs between the 2 stitches. Next knit 1 stitch into that space. Because this stitch is 2 rows down, you have to pull up quite a loop when making this stitch.

9. This looks something like this:

10. Next, knit 2 stitches. These are the stitches directly above the k2tog and skp knit earlier.

11. This step can be a bit tricky, because it is a bit hard to see. But is really not that bad when you get the hang of it. Do you see the spot in the fabric where the elongated stitch from step 9 is coming from? Insert your right hand needle into that very same space and knit another elongated stitch.

12. Again knit the stitches in between flowers, than repeat steps 8 to 11 to make more flowers. Next knit to end.

13. Finish your first row of flowers by working a couple of rows in stockinette stitch.

And this is how the small flower stitch looks in a larger project (this is a snapshot of my Stellaria cowl, worked in Moeke Yarns Elena):

In this example I have offset the second row of flowers. However, you can of course also put the flowers directly above previous flowers.

tutorial: knitting the small flower stitch Read More »

knitting i-cord

You’re probably familiar with those cute French knitting dolls. With the doll I had as a child, I probably made dozens and dozens meters of cord. At that time the making of just the cord itself was enough, nowadays I really only use cord when needed in addition to another project. Think of straps or closures for wrap cardigans.

Nowadays I don’t use French knitting dolls anymore for my cord needs: I make cord with just my knitting needles. This type of cord is also know as “I-cord”, with the “I” standing for “idiot” because it is indeed idiotically easy to knit.

Most tutorials for i-cord indicate that double pointed needles or circular needles are needed. This is because after the setting up the stitches and the working the first row, the work is not turned. Instead the stitches are pushed to the other side (point) of the needle. However, this approach does not work if you want to attach the cord to an existing piece of knitting.

That’s why I’ll show you in this post how to knit an i-cord without the pushing around of stitches. With this method, you can also just use regular straight needles if you wish. I don’t, but that is just because I like knitting with circs better.

I-cord is usually knit over 3 to 5 stitches. In this example I’m going to make i-cord on 3 stitches. In short instruction would be as follows:

I-cord: Cast on 3 sts. *k 3, sl 3 sts just worked back on the LH needle, pull yarn tight across back of sts; rep from * to desired length.

Knitting i-cord step by step

1. Cast on 3 stitches, in this example I used the knitting-on method.

2. Knit 1 row.

3. Slip the three newly knitted stitches back to the left hand needle one by one.

4. Pull the yarn tight and make sure it is behind the work.

5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 until the cord has the desired length. In the picture below, I repeated these steps about 10 times.

Knitting i-cord is indeed, not too difficult, right?

knitting i-cord Read More »

tutorial: knitting a scalloped edge

Knitting a scalloped edge - a tutorial by La Visch Designs - www.lavisch.com

I have said it before and will say it again: a nice border can really make an otherwise simple project. In this tutorial I want to show you how to knit a scalloped edge. This particular edge is not only very beautiful, but is also relatively easy to knit!

This edge is knitted over two rows immediately after casting on your stitches. Therefore, this edging is particularly suitable for pieces that are knit up from the cast on edge. Think of sweaters, cardigans or, for example a bottom-up shawl.

The scalloped edge is knit in multiples of 11 stitches + 2. Please note, though, that when you’re finished with the cast on and are ready to begin the rest of you project, you’ll only have a multiple of 6 + 2 stitches left. So, don’t forget to take this into account.

Knitting a scalloped edge step by step

1. In this example, I will be knitting a scalloped edge with 3 scallops. This means I will be casting on a total of 33 + 2 stitches. I used the knitting-on method to cast on my stitches.

2. Purl 1 row.

3. Turn your work and knit the first 2 edge stitches.

4. Knit one stitch and slip it back to the left-hand needle.

5. Pass the next 8 stitches over the last stitch knit. You can do this one by one or all at once, whatever you find easiest! I did one by one as you can see in the first picture below.

6. Make a double yarn over….

7. ….and knit the stitch previously slipped back to the other needle.

8. Knit 2 stitches.

9. Repeat steps 4 to 8 for the two other scallops.

10. Turn work and knit 1 stitch…

11. … and continue purling 2 stitches together. For this step, you will use one of your edge stitches!

12. Drop one of the 2 double yarn overs, so you have just the one (big) loop on your left-hand needle.

13. Next knit into this loop without slipping of the stitch [knit 1, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over], now you can slip the big-loop stitch off.

14. Purl 1 stitch.

15. Repeat steps 11 to 14 for the two other scallops, and then work the remaining edge stitch. This is how the scalloped edge then looks like on the right side of work:

16. Knit the next row, please note that every first stitch of each scallop should be knit through the back loop to tighten it up.

After 2 rows in stockinette stitch, the whole thing looks as follows:

The wrong side of the work is also pretty!

And there you have it: a nice scalloped start of a lovely project!

tutorial: knitting a scalloped edge Read More »

tutorial: crochet the star stitch

Crochet the Star Stitch - a tutorial by La Visch Designs - www.lavisch.com

The star stitch is a very pretty stitch, which also gives projects a lovely texture. You may also have heard of this stitch by the name of “Marguerite Stitch”. In this post, I will show you how to crochet the reversible half-star version. This means that each side of the fabric will show half a star, giving a completely reversible fabric. Instructions are also given to transform it into the full-star, non-reversible star stitch.

The star stitch is worked as a multiple of 2 + 1 + stitches plus three turning chains. If you want to work this stitch on an existing piece in another stitch pattern, start with a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches and 3 turning chains before you turn your work and starting the first row in star stitch.

It is of course also possible to crochet the star stitch in the round. In that case, work a multiple of 2 + 1 stitches and crochet the 3 turning chains after joining in the round.

In this post I’ll show you how to work the star stitch as a flat piece working back and forth. These instructions are written in American English crochet terminology.

The star stitch step by step

First row

1. In this example, I crochet the star stitch directly on the starting chain, which I made 16 chains long.

2. When inserting the hook in a chain stitch, there are of course several options on where in the stitch exactly to insert your hook. However, for the best result in this stitch, I would suggest inserting your hook in the single bumps at the back of the starting chain.

First star

3. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook and pull up a loop.

4. Also repeat step 3 for the third to sixth chain from the hook. Take care to pull up the last few loops a little bit longer than the first ones. You now have 6 loops on your hook.

5. Make a yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook.

6. Crochet 1 chain, your first star is now done.

Second star

7. To start the next star, insert your hook in the chain just made and pull up a loop.

8. Then insert the hook under the two loops you can see on the side of the last pulled up loop from the previous star and pull a loop.

9. Now insert your hook in the last chain of the starting chain in which the previous star was made. This was the sixth chain from the hook. Pull up a loop.

10. To complete all the loops for the second star, insert the hook into the next chain from the starting chain and pull a loop. This was the seventh chain from the hook. Repeat for the eighth chain from the hook. Remember to make these last loops a bit longer again than the previous loops. You now have again six loops on the hook.

11. Make a yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook. Crochet 1 chain, this completes the second star.

12. Repeat steps 7 to 11 until the end of the row. You can clearly see in this example how pretty the bottom edge is, because I have worked in the back bumps of the starting chain.

Second row
For the full-star non-reversible version of the star stitch, work a full row in sc or hdc before continuing with steps 13 to 16.

13. Crochet 3 chains and turn work. Make sure you do not crochet these chains too tight, because you will crochet into them later on.

14. Insert your hook in the second chain from the hook (in the bump on the back of the turning chain!) and pull up a loop. Repeat for the third chain from the hook. Next pull up loops in the first, second and third stitches from the previous row.

15. Make a yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook. Crochet 1 chain, this completes the first star of the second row.

16. For the next stars of this row, repeat steps 7 to 11. To pull up the last loop for the last star of the row, you insert the hook in the chain that you skipped when making the first star of the previous row. Depending on how loose your turning chain was made, this may be a bit tight …

17. Repeat steps 13 to 16 for the rest of your project. For the full-star non-reversible version of the star stitch, work a full row in sc or hdc before every repeat of steps 13 to 16.

tutorial: crochet the star stitch Read More »

tutorial: knitting a folded hem

Making a folded edge or or hem on a knitted garment is the way to give a project an edge in stockinette stitch that does not roll. Ideal if you’re looking for an understated and elegant finish of your garment. Because this border is composed of two layers, it is a strong and wear-resistant finish, which is very suitable for example for sleeves and collars.

As is often the case, there are multiple ways to create a folded hem. In this post I will show you the version using a provisional cast-on.

Materials needed

Yarn for your project
Smooth waste yarn in a similar thickness as your main or slightly thinner for the provisional cast-on
Knitting needles
An additional knitting needle in the same or slightly smaller size
A crochet hook

Knitting a folded hem step by step

1. Start by doing a provisional cast-on using the waste yarn. In this post you can see how my favourite way to do a provisional cast-on is done step by step.

2. Then knit with your main yarn in stockinette stitch. For a somewhat rounded edge to your hem, knit to about twice the desired height of the hem. That’s what I’ve done in this example.

For a hem with a sharper crease on the fold, knit in stockinette until the desired height of the hem. Next work a purl row on the right side of the work, followed by another length in stockinette for the desired height of the hem.

3. Remove the provisional cast-on and place the freed stitches on the extra knitting needle.

4. Fold the piece like shown in the picture with the right side of the work on the outside and hold both knitting needles in the same hand.

5. Insert the third knitting needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit as usual, then immediately after that do the same with the first stitch on the needle at the back. Wrap yarn around the needle as usual and pull it through both stitches. Next slip both first stitches from the 2 left-hand needles to complete the stitch.

6. Repeat step 5 until the end of the needle, it will look something like this:

After knitting a few rows in stockinette stitch, the work looks like this on the right side of the work:

On the wrong side of the work you can also see how pretty this hem look. This is a very suitable solution for those projects that have to be pretty on both sides!

For this type of folded hem I also see the possibility of using it for the waist of a skirt to thread a cord or elastic band through. Also in terms of finishing the hood of a sweater, I see opportunities!

tutorial: knitting a folded hem Read More »

tutorial: knitting rick-rack rib

To finish a sweater, ribbing is obviously the preferred choice: its fabric does not roll and it gives quite an elastic finishing. Sometimes, however, I find knitting yet another 2×2 rib or variant thereof just so… boring. For giving your project that tiny bit of “je ne se quoi” instead of regular ribbing, try the rick-rack rib.

The nice zig-zag texture that is so characteristic of this stitch is obtained by the knitting the stitches in a different order than they appear on the needle. In this post, I’ll show you how to knit this variation on regular ribbing when knitting it flat. Pointers on how to knit this stitch in the round can be found in this tutorial.

Rick-rack rib worked flat is knitted as a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches. For this example, I have cast on 19 stitches.

In short, the instructions for this stitch worked flat consist of the following 2 rows:

Row 1 (RS): Purl 1, *skip the first stitch, knit in the back loop of the second stitch (do not slip this stitch off the needle), knit into the front loop of the first stitch and now slip both knitted stitches of the needle, purl 1; repeat from * to end of the row.

Row 2 (WS): Knit 1, *skip the first stitch, purl the second stitch (do not slip stitch of the needle), purl the first stitch and now slip both knitted stitches from the needle, knit 1; repeat from * to end of the row.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 to the desired height.

Knitting rick-rack rib flat step by step

Row 1
1. Purl 1 stitch.

2. Skip the first stitch and knit the second stitch on the needle in the back loop. Do not slip this stitch off the left-hand needle just yet!

3. Knit into the front loop of the first stitch that you skipped in step 2. Then slip both knitted stitches from the needle.

4. Purl 1 stitch.

5. Repeat steps 2 to 5 to the end of the needle.

Row 2
6. Knit 1 stitch.

7. Skip the first stitch and purl the second stitch on the left-hand needle. Do not slip this stitch off the needle just yet!

8. Purl the first stitch that you skipped in step 7. Then slip both knitted stitches from the needle.

9. Knit 1 stitch.

10. Repeat steps 7 to 9 to the end of the row.

On the right side of the work, it will look something like this:

And this is how it looks on the back:

In case your project ends with rick-rack rib, you can bind-off after row 2 by binding off in purl 1, knit 2 pattern.

tutorial: knitting rick-rack rib Read More »