lace

Back in 2011 I decided to cast on a stole using the linen stitch. It’s named like that, because it looks similar to a woven linen fabric. The stitch uses simple slipped stitches to achieve that effect. This also means that the fabric it creates is rather dense and may turn out very tight during knitting. To counter that effect, go up needles sizes from what you would usually use for that weight of yarn. In the project pictured, I used 4.5 mm (US 7) size needles, there is nothing loose about this fabric!

The patterning can, of course, be worked in a single color. But because of the slip stitches, very lovely effects can be achieved by using 2 or more colors. The general advice for changing yarn colors, with the linen stitch, is to change colors at the beginning of every odd-numbered row. In the project pictured, I’m working 3 rows of each color in the following sequence: gray, red, variegated black & gray’s, red. As a sidenote, in this project I cut the yarn with every row for instant fringe at the sides of my stole.

The stitch pattern requires any odd number of stitches, and is worked over 2 rows, when not taking color sequences into account.

Materials used

Yarn: Zettl Sockenwolle Cortina, a light fingering sock yarn (75% Wool, 25% Nylon) per 209 m (229 yds) / 50 g. Pictured here in a gray variegated colorway, also red and solid gray were used in the project shown.

Needles: Addi Lace Circular Needles. In this project, I used the 4.5 mm (US 7) size.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat
• sl – slip the indicated stitch purl-wise to the right-hand needle
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• wyib – with the yarn held in the back of your project
• wyif – with the yarn held in the front of your project

Linen stitch

Row 1 (RS): * K1, sl 1 wyif; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, * p1, sl 1 wyib; rep from * to end.

Repeat rows 1-2 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The St John’s wort stitch is a traditional lace knitting stitch. It combines a 3 to 2 decrease on the right side of the fabric, with a strategically placed yarn over increase on the following wrong side of the fabric. Because of this, you’ll see that the stitch count decreases on the right side rows, and increases again on the wrong side rows. As far as lace patterning goes, this one is pretty intuitive to knit: The yarn over always has to be worked between the 2 wrapped stitches of the 3 to 2 decrease. This makes it pretty easy to read the knitting, and see which stitch needs to go where.

The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 6 + 2 stitches, and is worked over 4 rows. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. These are not included in the stitch pattern description.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• p – purl
• psso – pass the slipped stitch over
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat
• sl – slip the indicated stitch knit-wise to the right-hand needle
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• yo – yarn over

St. John’s Wort stitch

Row 1 (RS): K1, * (sl 1, k2, psso), k3; rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 2 (WS): P1, * p4, yo, p1; rep from * to 1 st before end, p1.
Row 3: K1, * k3, (sl 1, k2, psso); rep from * to 1 st before end, k1.
Row 4: P1, * p1, yo, p4; rep from * to 1 st before end, p1.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The staggered eyelet stitch consists of alternating eyelets on a stockinette background. It’s a quite simple stitch pattern, with a gorgeous effect when used all-over in a design. Especially if you don’t want to take away too much attention from the yarn. This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2 stitches, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. These are not included in the stitch pattern description.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• yo – yarn over

Staggered eyelet stitch

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 and all following WS rows: Purl.
Row 3: K1, yo, k2tog, *k2, yo, k2tog; rep from * to 3 sts before end, k3.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 7: K3, *yo, k2tog, k2; rep from * to 3 sts before end, yo, k2tog, k1.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The Berry stitch consists of patterning that creates little alternating clusters. They are pretty reminiscent of berries, hence the name. However, you can also encounter similar patterning as raspberry stitch, trinity stitch, cluster stitch, or bramble stitch. As with all types of bobbles, this stitch pattern creates the little clusters by a combination of increasing and decreasing. In this particular example, I used needles that were somewhat large for the weight of the yarn, this made the effect more lacy than would otherwise be the case.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches, and in a four-row repeat. However, if you want it to fill a whole panel symmetrically, it’s a multiple of 4 stitches + the first 3 stitches of the next four-stitch repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. These are not included in the stitch pattern description.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• k3tog – knit 3 stitches together
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Berry stitch

Row 1 (RS): *K3tog, (p1, k1, p1) into the same st; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): Knit.
Row 3: *(P1, k1, p1) into the same st, k3tog; rep from * to end.
Row 4: Knit.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

This tiny bobble stitch is a nicely textured stitch pattern, suitable for allover application. In my swatch, I’ve shown how it looks both in a single color all-over, and with the bobble part of the pattern in a contrasting color. I rather like the effect of both. I think the one with the contrast color would also work very well as a single accent near the hem and wrists of garments, for example. How would you use this lovely textured stitch pattern?

The tiny bobble stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 2 + 1 stitches, and in a six-row repeat. In other words: any odd number of stitches will work. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. These are not included in the stitch pattern description.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the colors Vintage Pink and Lime.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• k3tog tbl – knit 3 stitches together through the back loop
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• yo – yarn over
• rep – repeat
• sl1 wyib – slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in the back
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Tiny bobble stitch

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Rows 3-4: Rep rows 1-2.
Row 5: K1, *sl1 wyib, (k1, yo, k1) into the next st; rep from * to last 2 sts, sl1 wyib, k1.
Row 6: P1, *sl1 wyib, k3tog tbl; rep from * to last 2 sts, sl 1wyib, p1.

Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern until desired length.

Please note that for the first part of the example, I’ve worked all 6 rows of the patterning in the same color twice. In the last repeat, though, rows 5 and 6 were worked in the green contrast color.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

The bobble stitch is a nicely textured stitch pattern, suitable for allover application. Bobbles are a great way to make your knitting 3-dimensional instead of just flat. For that very reason, they are also often used in conjunction with lace patterning or with cables. The bobble pattern, described here, was used in my Moerbei shawl. The thing with bobbles is that there are so many ways to make them, there really is no right or wrong way. They can be made in 3, 4, 5 or even more stitches to make them less or more fat. To do so, stitches have to be increased and later decreased. There are, of course, many ways to do either things. Here, I will be showing a 5-stitch bobble.

As with most bobbles, it may be necessary to push the bulk of the bobble to the right side of the fabric to show it at its best. During knitting, it may be end up somewhere in between, or even pushed to the wrong side. Easily fixed, though!

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 8 stitches, and in a twelve-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch. These are not included in the stitch pattern description.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Spearmint green.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
• mb – make bobble: Work [k1, yo, k1, yo, k1] into the same st, turn, p5, turn, slip 3 stitches together as if to knit, k2tog, pass 3 slipped sts over; bobble made
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• yo – yarn over
• rep – repeat
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Alternating bobble stitch

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 and all following WS rows: Purl.
Rows 3-4: Rep rows 1-2.
Row 5: *K2, mb, k5; rep from * to end.
Rows 7-10: Rep rows 1-4.
Row 11: *K6, mb, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 12: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

To get an impression of how this stitch looks as an all-over pattern:

The quatrefoil stitch is a stitch pattern in the category of eyelet stitches. It’s made by working a group of 4 yarn overs, each flanked by a single decrease. Each group of 4 eyelets is alternated, making this a lovely pattern to use allover in a project.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 8 stitches, and in a sixteen-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Spearmint green.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• yo – yarn over
• rep – repeat
• skp – slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch over
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Quatrefoil stitch

Row 1 (RS): Knit. (15 sts)
Row 2 and all following WS rows: Purl.
Row 3: K2, *k1, yo, skp, k5; rep from * to 5 sts before end, k1, yo, skp, k2.
Row 5: K1, k2tog, *yo, k1, yo, skp, k3, k2tog; rep from * to 4 sts before end, yo, k1, yo, skp, k1.
Row 7: K2, *k1, yo, k2tog, k5; rep from * to 5 sts before end, k1, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 11: K2, *k5, yo, skp, k1; rep from * to 5 sts before end, k5.
Row 13: K2, *k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, skp; rep from * to 5 sts before end, k5.
Row 15: K2, *k5, yo, k2tog, k1; rep from * to 5 sts before end, k5.
Row 16: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-16 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

To get an impression of how this stitch looks as an all-over pattern:

The fountain stitch is an elegant lace pattern, that looks rather like water flowing from a fountain. Hence, the name! It really looks much more intricate and complex than it really is. The stitch pattern consists of yarn overs and a left-leaning double decrease. You can easily adjust the looks of this lace pattern, by replacing the decrease by a centered double decrease. In this example, I have worked the pattern in acrylic yarn, the swatch has not been blocked. The patterning will pop a lot more if you do block your project.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 1, and in a four-row repeat. Something to keep in mind, is that the increases are decreased away again on another row, so your stitch count will differ from row to row. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Vintage Pink.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• yo – yarn over
• rep – repeat
• sl1-k2tog-psso – Slip next stitch, knit 2 together, then pass slipped stitch over.
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Fountain stitch

Row 1 (RS): K1, * yo, k3, yo, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: K1, * k2, sl1-k2tog-psso, k3; rep from * to end.
Row 4: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

To get an impression of how this stitch looks as an all-over pattern:

The hexagon stitch is a very striking stitch that is nevertheless not hard to knit. It’s made by working a yarn over and passing it over a group of stitches. This sequence is alternated, making it look like little hexagons. Because of the passed-over yarn overs, the fabric is a bit tighter than regular stockinette. It shares its tendency to roll, though.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches, and in a four-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Lime.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• p – purl
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• yo – yarn over
• yo-k3-pass yo over – yarn over, knit 3 stitches, pass the yarn over, over the 3 knit stitches
• rep – repeat
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Grand staggered eyelet stitch

Row 1 (RS): *Yo-k3-pass yo over, k3; rep from * to end. (6 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: *K3, yo-k3-pass yo over; rep from * to end.
Row 4: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric:

To get an impression of how this stitch looks as an all-over pattern:

The grand staggered eyelet stitch is a bold lace pattern consisting of double yarn overs, flanked by left- and right-leaning decreases. In this version, the second half of the patterning is offset by 2 stitches when compared with the first half. You can, of course, also just repeat the first 4 rows of the patterning all-over. This will result in the eyelets neatly stacked above each other. In this example, I have worked the pattern in acrylic yarn, the swatch has not been blocked. The patterning will pop a lot more if you do block your project.

This stitch pattern is worked as a multiple of 4 stitches + 6, and in an eight-row repeat. Please note that I’ve added 2 edge stitches in garter stitch on both sides of the swatch.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color Tea Rose.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

• k – knit
• p – purl
• k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• skp – slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Replace this decrease with a ssk, if preferred.
• yo – yarn over
• double yo – wrap the yarn around the needle twice
• rep – repeat
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Grand staggered eyelet stitch

Row 1 (RS): K1, k2tog, * yo twice, skp, k2tog; rep from * 3 sts before end, yo twice, skp, k1. (10 sts)
Row 2 (WS): P2, (p1, k1) in double yo, * p2, (p1, k1) in double yo; rep from * to 2 sts before end, p2.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K1, yo, * skp, k2tog, yo twice; rep from * to 5 sts before end, skp, k2tog, yo, k1.
Row 6: P4, * (p1, k1) in double yo, p2; rep from * to 2 sts before M, p2.
Row 7: Knit.
Row 8: Purl.

Repeat rows 1-8 for pattern until desired length.

In the below pictures, you see the patterning first from the right, and then also from the wrong side of the fabric: