knitting Archives - Page 12 of 28

duin

Duin is a crescent-shaped shawl worked from the top-down. The design contains color work in the border with the mosaic slip stitch technique: only one color is worked at a time. The perfect way to do color work without any tension issues or stress!

Start the shawl with a garter stitch tab. The body contains special shaping, which helps to avoid the “bump” in the upper edge of the shawl, so often present in crescent shawl designs. The instructions for the mosaic color work are provided both fully charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

Start the Duin shawl with a special garter stitch tab, the pattern contains a link to a La Visch Designs photo tutorial. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, k2tog, and m1l, and m1r increases. This pattern is therefor suitable for the advanced beginner or intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 200 cm (78 ¾ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 62 cm (24 ½ inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of this shawl by using lighter or heavier yarn. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Duin has a gauge of approx. 17 sts / 22 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over stockinette, measured after blocking. Gauge is not critical in this design, but for a look similar to the sample shown, a loose gauge is advised.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Yarn

Sandnes Garn Tynn merinoull (100% Merino; 175 m (191 yds) / 50 g) in the following colors and amounts:

MC: 525 m (573 yds) / 150 g in 2564 Caramel
CC: 175 m (191 yds) / 50 g in 6562 Petrol

Substitute any wool fingering or sport weight yarn in colors with sufficient contrast for a similar result.

Materials

Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
Size 4.5 mm (US 7) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles (or larger as needed) – for mosaic color work, to minimize “pulling in”.
2 stitch markers to indicate the center stitches of the shawl.
Yarn needle

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tutorial – working the Turkish cast-on

The Turkish cast-on is a way to invisibly cast-on for projects to be worked in the round. Think, for example, of toe-up socks. This cast-on can be used for a wide range of projects and not just for socks. It can be used for anything that requires knitting in the round and a neat, seamless start. In other words, for anything you’d use Judy’s Magic Cast-On for, this cast-on is a good alternative. And, to be honest, I find this one to be much easier and less fiddly to work!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, in the color 128 Lime Green.

Needles: KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 4 mm (US 6) size with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Working the Turkish cast-on step by step

In this example, I’m casting on 20 stitches, as one would do for toe-up socks.

To start, we make a slipknot, and place it on the needle.
Next, arrange both needle tips as shown in the picture below.
Place both needle tips parallel to each other, with the slipknot-holding needle below the other one, and the working yarn behind and above the top needle.
Now wrap the working yarn around both needles. Make as many wraps as half the total stitches you want to cast-on.
In this example, I want 20 stitches total, so I wrap the yarn 10 times around the needles.
Next, pull out the bottom needle (the one with the slipknot).
It helps to keep the wrapped yarn in place by holding it close to the needle with your left hand.
Now use the pulled-out needle tip as your working (right-hand) needle to knit into the first stitch on the main (left-hand) needle.
To do so, first insert the needle knit-wise into the stitch…
…, and wrap the yarn around the needle.
To finish the knit stitch, pull the yarn through en let the loop fall off the left-hand needle.
This is how it then looks:
Repeat steps 5-7 until there are no more loops on the needle.
This is how it looks:
To work the other 10 stitches that are on the cable, we have to rearrange the circular needle.
First, orient the work in such in a way that the row of stitches with the slipknot is on top, as shown below. Now push the needle in, so they no longer rest on the cable, but on the needle tip instead. For the other row of stitches, pull the needle tip out, so the stitches rest on the cable.
In this step, I’ve slipped the slipknot off the needle, because I don’t need it as a stitch.
Just gently pull the yarn tail to pull the slipknot loose. Next, knit all the stitches on the needle as described in steps 5 to 7.
This is the cast-on result, ready for further knitting in the round (using magic loop) as described in your pattern!

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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mamaku

Mamaku, scientifically known as Cyathea medullaris, is a black tree fern native to New Zealand, that is commonly found in damp gullies across forested areas in the country. While I’ve never been to New Zealand, the lace edging of this shawl really looks like fern fronds. The Mamaku shawl pairs this delightful lace edging with a lovely, relaxing-to-knit textured body.

This shawl is knitted from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter stitch tab. The instructions for the edging are both charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

This shawl is worked from the top down, starting with a garter stitch tab. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, k2tog, skp, kfb, m1l, and m1r increases. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 175 cm (68 ¾ inches) and a depth of 85 cm (33 ½ inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of this shawl by using lighter or heavier yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the various sections of the shawl. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Mamaku has a gauge of approx. 14 sts / 25 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern, measured after blocking. Gauge is not critical in this design, but for a look similar to the sample shown, a loose gauge is advised.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Yarn

554 m (606 yds) / 100 g Ice Yarns Afro Wool (100% wool; 277 m (303 yds) / 50 g) in Black.

Substitute a 2-ply wool (light) fingering to sport weight yarn in a solid or tonal colorway for a similar result.

Materials

In the sample shawl: Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles. Use needles appropriate for the yarn chosen.
4 stitch markers to indicate the center stitch and the edge stitches.
Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the lace patterning (optional)
Yarn needle

mamaku Read More »

tutorial – the standard knitted bind-off

This particular bind-off is the one most knitters learn first, and with good reason: it’s a very versatile bind-off that can be used in both knit and purl variations. This makes it my go-to bind-off when a pattern instructs me to bind-off “in pattern”. That said, in this tutorial, I will focus only on the knit variation, to work this in purl, just replace all knits by purls!

But I’m getting ahead of myself. The standard knitted bind-off creates a lovely edge, that is perfect for seaming, picking up stitches or doing “pick up and knit” for further finishing. Think for example of knitting a button band for a cardigan. That said, while this bind-off has some elasticity, it can be hard to get the tension exactly right. It’s not advised to use for edges that need a lot of stretch, like the ribbing of toe-up socks. If you know you’re a tight knitter, it may be a good idea to go up a needle size when doing this bind-off. Likewise, if you’re a very loose knitter, you may want to drop down a size.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 125 Spearmint Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The standard knitted bind-off step by step

In patterns, you may see the following instruction for this bind-off:
K1, *k1, insert tip of the left-hand needle into first stitch on the right-hand needle, pass this stitch over the second stitch; repeat from * to end.
Below, I’ll show you step by step how this looks like in knitting!

To start, take the piece of knitting you want to bind-off.
In this case, I’m using the swatch I made for the Double Lace Rib stitch pattern.
Knit the first stitch on the left-hand needle.
Next, knit the new stitch nearest to the tip of the left-hand needle.
Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle….
…., and pass this second stitch over the first one.
You have now bound-off a stitch!
Repeat steps 3-5 until all stitches have been bound-off.
Midway, it will look something like this:

And here also a picture of the resulting edge. Pretty, isn’t it?!

The Standard Knitted Bind-Off - the result

tutorial – the standard knitted bind-off Read More »

stitch pattern – double lace rib

This post is about working the double lace rib stitch pattern. It works well both as an insert or as all-over patterning. This stitch pattern is worked on both right side and wrong side rows, and is a multiple of 6 + 2 stitches.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 125 Spearmint Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Stitches used

Double Lace Rib stitch pattern instructions

Row 1 (right side): K2, *p1, yo, k2tog tbl, p1, k2; rep from * to end.

Row 2: (wrong side): P2, *k1, p2; rep from * to end.

Row 3: K2, *p1, k2tog, yo, p1, k2; rep from * to end.

Row 4: P2, *k1, p2; rep from * to end.

Repeat rows 1-4 for pattern.

stitch pattern – double lace rib Read More »

tutorial – working a k2tog tbl

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to work the k2tog tbl decrease. The abbreviation stands for “knit 2 stitches together through the back loop”. Basically, it’s the twisted version of the k2tog decrease. However, while the k2tog is a right-leaning decrease, k2tog tbl is a left-leaning decrease. It’s similar in appearance to the skp and ssk decreases.

Knitting the k2tog tbl decrease step by step

First, take your project and work to the spot indicated in your pattern, where the decrease is supposed to be made.
In this case, I’m working a stitch pattern in which I have to work a k2tog tbl directly after a YO, over the 2 stitches near the tip of the left-hand needle.
Next, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first 2 stitches at the same time as if to knit through the back loop of these stitches.
This can be a tad hard to get right, I find it helps to pull the fabric down a bit.
Wrap the yarn around the needle…
…, and pull it through the stitches you inserted the right-hand needle in.
To finish the decrease, slip the original stitches of the left-hand needle.

And this is how to work the k2tog tbl decrease!

tutorial – working a k2tog tbl Read More »

tutorial – the cable cast-on

The cable cast-on is a cast-on very similar to the knitted on cast-on. It is worked similarly and creates a clean, and sturdy edge. It is, however, more firm and less stretchy; a very good choice for edges that benefit from that stability and don’t need any stretch. Take for example edges from which stitches are picked up and knit. For this reason, I personally wouldn’t use it for a knitting project that would be blocked heavily. For most other applications, though, it makes a very nice decorative edge. Think for example of edges of non-lace blankets.

This particular method is also great for the beginner knitter because it is basically the knit stitch that is used to cast on. In this post, I’ll show you how to do it!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 125 Spearmint Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

The cable cast-on step by step

Make a slip knot and place it on your needle.
This forms the first stitch, make sure to leave enough on the tail of the yarn to weave in later. It is also possible not to use a slip knot and just loop the yarn around the needle for your first stitch, thus avoiding the knot in the corner of your work. For the sake of this tutorial, however, I’m going with the slip knot version.
Take your second needle and insert the tip into the stitch with the needle under your main needle.
Insert at an angle, so your needles cross as pictured.
Hold the crossed needles together, take the yarn connected to your ball and wrap it around the bottom needle: go around, and then over.
Depending on your knitting style, this can be done with either your left or your right hand. The end result is however always the yarn wrapped around the needle as pictured.
Take the bottom needle and bring it back through the stitch, pulling the yarn with it in a loop.
Now transfer the new loop from the bottom needle to the other needle and tighten the yarn.
You have now cast on a stitch!
Take your second needle and insert the tip in between the 2 stitches closest to the tip of the main needle.
In this step, we’re deviating from the knitted-on cast-on.
Wrap the yarn around the needle….
… and pull it through the stitch.
To finish adding the new stitch, place it on the main needle.
Repeat steps 6-9 until you have reached the desired amount of stitches on your needle.
This is how it looks from the RS of the work, after a couple rows have been worked in garter stitch.
And the result from the WS:

tutorial – the cable cast-on Read More »

strawberry finch

The gorgeous color of this kid silk yarn reminded me of the wonderfully bright plumage of the Strawberry Finch, a cute little bird found throughout Asia. What better way to show it off this gorgeous yarn than with all-over lace? Of course, this shawl can also be knit in fingering-weight yarn.

The Strawberry Finch shawl is knitted in lace patterning from the top-down in one piece, starting at the neck edge with a garter tab. The instructions are provided charted and written out.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

Patterning in the body of the shawl is on both RS and WS rows. Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, k2tog, skp, purl 1 below, bunny ears yo, and a centered double decrease. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate to advanced knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: span width of 180 cm (71 inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 78 cm (30 ¾ inches), measured after blocking.

Change the size of the shawl by using heavier or lighter weight yarn and/or working fewer (or more) repeats of the body, the border, or both. This will, of course, change the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Strawberry Finch is written for a gauge of approx. 11.1 sts / 19.4 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over body pattern, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical in this design.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 5 pages (letter size)

Yarn

420 m (459 yds) / 50 g WayfaringYarns Sophia (72% brushed superkid mohair, 28% mulberry silk; 420 m (459 yds) / 50 g) in the color “Fuschia”.

This yarn and pattern are also available as a kit from Sweater Sisters!

Substitute any mohair type yarn with a halo of a similar lace weight for a similar result. Of course, this design can also be worked in a regular fingering weight yarn.

Materials

Size 5 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl. If using fingering weight yarn with less halo, needles in size 4 mm (US 6) are suggested.
4 stitch markers to indicate the center and edge stitches.
Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the lace patterning (optional).
Yarn needle.

strawberry finch Read More »

green jasper

Green Jasper captures all the gorgeous variations found in the semi-precious gemstone. This design is knit sideways on the bias, making a shallow and asymmetrical triangle, perfect for wearing as an elegant scarf. The combination of garter stitch in a variegated hand-dyed yarn and simple lace in a solid/tonal yarn makes it a perfect choice to get the best of both worlds.

The pattern contains both fully written out and charted instructions for the lace section.

Pay what you want: (minimum €6.50)

€

Difficulty level

Stitches used include knit, purl, yo, k2tog, skp, kfb and pfb. This pattern is therefor suitable for the intermediate knitter.

Sizes and finished measurements

Finished dimensions of the sample shawl: 192 cm (75 ½ inches) along the upper edge and a depth of 69 cm (27 inches), measured after blocking.

Make the shawl larger by adding more repeats of the garter stitch and/or by working more repeats in the lace section. This will, of course, increase the amount of yarn needed.

Pattern details

Green Jasper is written for a gauge of approx. 16 sts / 23 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) over garter stitch, measured after blocking. Gauge is however not critical in this design.
Pattern languages included: English.
Digital PDF has 4 pages (letter size)

Yarn

C1: 1 skein Sticks & Cups Olympus (100% Bluefaced Leicester; 400 m (437 yds) / 100 g) in “Quebrada de Humahuaca”.
C2: 1 ball ONION Knit Nettle Sock (70% wool, 30% cellulose; 185 m (202 yds) / 50 g) in 1006 “Green”.

Substitute any variegated fingering weight yarn for C1 and any solid or tonal colored fingering weight yarn for C2 for a similar result.

Materials

Size 4 mm (US 6) / 80 cm (32 inches) circular needles were used for the sample shawl.
Removable stitch marker to denote the RS of the shawl (optional)
Stitch markers to indicate repeats of the lace patterning (optional)
Yarn needle

green jasper Read More »

tutorial – working a pfb

There are lots of ways to increase the number of stitches on your needle. Purling in the front and back of the same stitch, also known as the pfb increase, is the purl side version of the kfb increase. In other words: you work the pfb on the purl side of the fabric, which is often the wrong side) to get an extra stitch that looks like the kfb increase on the knit- or right side of stockinette fabric. This increase can be a bit tricky to work at first, but once you know how to do it, you will breeze right through them.

The pfb increase is also known as a “bar increase” because it forms a little horizontal bar in your work. Due to this little bar, this increase is virtually invisible in garter stitch. When used in stockinette, as shown in this tutorial, it forms a series of decorative bars along the increase line when viewed from the knit side of the fabric. This how-to will give you step-by-step instructions on how to work the “purl front and back” increase.

Materials used

Yarn: * Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 128 Lime Green.

Needles: * KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 4 mm (US 6) size with a cable length of 80 cm (32 inches).

Working a pfb step-by-step

In this tutorial I’ll continue the swatch that I used in previous tutorials on increases and decreases.

First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the increase.
In this case, I want the increase 2 sts in from the garter stitch border on the right. A pfb first makes a purl stitch, followed by the extra “bar” stitch on the left of it. Because of this, I start working the pfb over the third stitch.
To start, insert the right-hand needle purl wise into the front loop of the stitch.
To finish this part of the stitch, wrap your yarn around the needle, and pull it through the stitch. Don’t drop it of the needle yet!
Now we insert the right-hand needle purl wise into the back loop of the stitch.
To do so, insert the needle from the left to the right through the back loop. This is the tricky part, I find it helps to pull the fabric down a bit as shown in the picture, because it makes it easier to see where to insert the needle.
Next, wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through the stitch.
To complete the pfb stitch, drop the loop from the original stitch off the left-hand needle.
This is how it looks now.
Do you see the purl stitch with an extra “bar stitch” to the left of it?
This is how it looks after some more rows with increases, when viewed from the purl side of the fabric.
In this swatch, I’ve also made increases on the left side of the fabric. Very invisible here!
And here is the view from the knit side of the fabric.
When viewed from this side, it really looks like a kfb, right?!

And that’s all there is to it!

tutorial – working a pfb Read More »