tutorial Archives - Page 4 of 16

tutorial – working a picot bind-off

There are quite a few different ways to work a picot bind-off. That’s not even counting the variations coming from different distances between picots, and the sizing of the picots. In this tutorial, I’ll show you a variation of the picot bind-off that consists of binding of stitches the traditional way, combined with strategically cast-on stitches. Also, it can, of course, be used to bind-off a project. But the picot bind-off can also be worked on picked-up stitches or on the stitches from a provisional cast-on. The sky is the limit!

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn, here in the color 133 Marine Blue.

Needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working the picot bind-off step by step

Take your project when you’re ready to start your bind-off. You can start as soon as the last row of your work has been knit, and after your work has been turned when working flat back and forth.
In this example, I’m using a swatch from a previous tutorial.
To start, knit 2 stitches.
Insert the left-hand needle into the stitch first worked…
… and lift it over the second stitch.
You have now bound-off 1 stitch.
Knit 1 stitch and repeat steps 3 and 4 to bind-off another stitch.
Next, cast-on 2 stitches using the knitted-on cast-on.
To do so, insert your needle into the stitch, wrap the yarn around it and pull it through the stitch. Then, instead of slipping the original stitch off the needle as you’d do when working a knit stitch, slip the new loop onto the left-hand needle to create a new stitch. Repeat once to get 2 new stitches.
To finish the first picot, work step 5 a total of 4 times.
Continue working steps 6 and 7 until your work has been completely bound-off.

When viewed from the back, it looks like this:

The result of the picot bind-off, viewed from the back

Thanks to my Patreon supporters for bringing you this freebie! Creating quality patterns and tutorials is a lot of work and resource-intensive. However, I find it important to give you free content like this tutorial. Thanks to the generous support of my Patreon supporters, I can make it happen. Thank you, patrons! Click here to join, or click here to read more about La Visch Designs on Patreon.

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tutorial – knitwear examined: a Missoni tee

A closeup of the top of a mannequin, it's wearing a Missoni tee in yellows.

When talking about knitwear, at a certain point Missoni is bound to be named. Missoni is an Italian brand and fashion house, famous for its colorful zigzag patterns and vibrant floral prints. Due to this, many of their pieces have a very exuberant seventies aesthetic. According to Wikipedia, the company was founded in 1953, when Ottavio and Rosita Missoni set up a small knitwear workshop in Gallarate, Italy. They presented their first collection under the Missoni label in Milan in 1958. According to this website, Missoni revolutionized knitwear by introducing slinky sweaters and crochet tracksuits. Originally using lines, the Missoni family discovered a way to make the emblematic chevron pattern by using Raschel knitting machines. The new technique allowed the fashion house to use knits to create any shape of garment, allowing them to cut and sew material without loosening the threads.

As luck would have it, I have a Missoni knitwear tee. It’s a vintage one that my mother used to have, and at a certain point gifted to me. I have been wearing it a lot the last couple of years. So let’s take a look at it!

In the below pictures, I have put the tee on my mannequin. It has a simple round neck as well as the famous chevron pattern in multiple colors of yellow, green and lilac. A design aspect that jumps out to me, is that the fabric of the sleeves is positioned in such a way that the larger chevron is centered on the top of both sleeves.

A closer look

This tee is an Italian size 48, this is similar to an EU 40-42 and US 12.

The neckband looks like a folded hem, covering the edge where the fabric appears to be cut. On the inside of the garment, the fabric of the side seams is serged. So, it’s reasonable to assume that underneath the folded hem, there is also a serged edge to prevent the fabric from unraveling.

Again, the patterning is centered relative to the neck opening and body of the tee.

The yarn used in this garment is very thin. As a hand knitter, I would classify this as lace weight. That said, commercial knitwear is often in much thinner yarn than hand knit ones. The yarn composition consists of 65% linen, 20% rayon, and 15% nylon.

The color runs in the yarn are of medium length, and change abruptly from one color to the next.

The sleeves are set-in, again with serged edges on the inside. In this picture, you can see very well how the centering of the pattern on the top of the sleeve results in a larger “point”.

And last, but not least: the patterning itself. I have not charted it out, but the repeat seems to consist of something like:

K7, CDD, k7, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, skp, yo, k1, skp, yo, k1, yo.

The WS rows are alternating in knit and purl. So, I think we’re looking at a 4-row repeat.

If you test this out, I’m looking forward to hearing whether the above indeed matches the patterning in my tee.

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tutorial – replacing the toe of a hand-knit sock

Replacing the worn-down toe of a hand-knit sock

My youngest is a big fan of wearing hand knit socks. To make sure he gets enough wear out of a pair before growing out of them, I make him tube socks. The pattern I use is usually the No-Heel Spiral Socks by La Maison Rililie. Anyway, he wears these socks a lot, and that means they also get a lot of wear. With the sock pictured, a hole developed in the lilac toe section. On further inspection, it became clear that the whole lilac toe was thin all over, but that the rest of the sock was still good for a lot of wearing. So, time to learn how to go about replacing the worn-down toe of a hand-knit sock!

In this post, I show you how I go about it. There are probably many more ways to tackle this, this is just the one that I used here.

Materials used

Yarn: New sock yarn to work the new toe.

Tools: A pair of circular needles in size 2 mm (US 00) and a small circular in the same size.

Replacing the toe, step by step

I determined that all the lilac was bad, but that the pink variegated yarn was still good.

To start, I snipped some of the lilac yarn to free up the stitches in the pink and to put those on a circular needle.
This sock was originally knit toe-up, but the replacement toe will be knit the other way around. Because of this difference in knitting direction, I can’t unravel the lilac yarn easily. Instead, I have to tease it loose stitch by stitch with the smaller needle. This is not a problem, because it greatly reduces the risk of dropped stitches and running down stitches.
Tease all the pink stitches loose and put them on the needle.
When this is done, you have a loose, worn-out toe and a project ready for knitting.
Attach your new yarn and work the new toe.
In this picture, I’m ready to join the new yarn.

The result

The result of replacing the worn-down toe of a hand-knit sock: A sock with a new toe, ready for some more wearing!

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tutorial – knitting jogless stripes in the round

When working knitting in the round, you’re actually working in a spiral. This means, that when knitting stripes, you get a little “jog” when switching from the one to the other color. Of course, there are also many ways to help counteract this effect. Some methods only work well with very wide stripes. However, the one I’ll be showing here, also works well with narrow stripes.

Materials used

Yarn: Scheepjes Sunkissed, a fingering weight 100% cotton yarn (170 meters / 50 grams). Pictured here in the colors 7 Pistachio Ice and 6 Oceanside.

Needles: * KnitPro Zing Fixed Circular Needles. In this tutorial, I used the 3 mm (US 2 1/2) size with a cable length of 60 cm (24 inches).

Knitting jogless stripes in the round step by step

To start, finish your round with the old color, but do not yet move the end-of-round stitch marker to the other needle.
Next, place the last worked stitch back on to the left-hand needle.
Now take the other color yarn and knit the stitch you just placed back onto the left-hand needle.
With the new color, continue working the round until you’re one stitch before the end-of-round.
Insert the right-hand needle in the stitch below the one near the tip of the left-hand needle and place it back on the needle.
Make sure to place the stitch in the “old color” in front of the one in the “new color”
This is what covers the jog!
Finally, knit both loops together.
And that’s it!

Considering that I’m knitting this tee with a 100% cotton yarn at a relatively loose gauge, I find the end result to be amazingly jogless indeed. I mean, it’s not absolutely invisible, but still pretty hard to detect!

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tutorial – raising the back neck of circular yoke sweaters

Circular yoke sweaters and tees are pretty popular. No wonder, because they are a great canvas for colorwork or lace. However, some shaping for raising the back neck is really necessary to make it sit right. Without any shaping, chances are that when it sits right at the back, it sits too high in the front, giving that undesired choking feeling. Likewise, if it sits well in the front, it will probably sit too low in the back. And no, this isn’t something that some rigorous blocking will fix.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you first what exactly the problem is. And, of course, also how to fix it.

The problem

As you can see in the below picture, the main issue is that the human torso is not symmetrical back to front. The neckline is angled, which means that to arrive at the same level, there is more fabric length needed in the back than at the front. And completely circular yokes (as well as raglan sweaters) without any added back neck shaping are symmetrical and don’t have this extra length built in.

As visualized in the below picture, you may start out with the situation on the right. However, as the day goes by, the sweater will want to return to its base shape and the neckline in the front will creep up as pictured on the left.

The solution, of course, is to add shaping to give the yoke the extra fabric it needs in the back. In ready-made garments, you also see a difference in the depth of the yoke in the back vs the front of the garment. That difference is called the “front neck drop”, which is in essence the same as raising the back neck by a certain distance. They both refer to a difference in vertical distance to create a better fit in your garment at the neck.

Flat lay picture of a t-shirt showing the front neck drop — Front neck drop

Adding a wedge to the back — Front neck drop

Raising the back neck: How?

The usual solution is to use short rows to add extra length over a certain number of the back stitches. These can be added close to the neckline, above any yoke patterning, below the yoke patterning to lengthen the back or a combination of these two. The short rows themselves can be of the wrap & turn kind, German short rows, or any other type of short row you prefer.

But this is not my preferred way….

Instead, I prefer to work back and forth over the back stitches only to lengthen that part. I do this directly before dividing the stitches for the body and sleeves. Let me you show what I mean:

A flatlay picture of a circular yoke, with a wedge knitted on.

A schematic of a circular yoke, with an added wedge.

This is my Jade Clover design when it was still in progress. This is a really easy way to raise the back neck, because no short row calculations are needed. Just look up in the pattern how many stitches you have for the back of your garment. Next, work those back and forth for a bit. This is a very easy way to include back neck shaping in patterns that don’t have it. Or, to raise it a bit further than the pattern describes. I know I have done so occasionally. For example, when only a few short rows were included, and the sweater still looked a bit choky on the models.

Below is my Shoreham-by-Sea tee pictured. You can see how that bit of knitting looks after the stitches are divided and a bit of the body has been worked.

What about the sleeves?

As you can see, there is now a vertical section between the held stitches and the stitches that were cast on for the underarm. And yes, this does mean that along that edge, stitches will also have to be picked up and knit for the sleeves. In my patterns where this technique is used, I have taken this into account when calculating all stitches and decrease rows for the sleeves. Take a look at the picture below to see how it looks when the garment was all done:

In sweaters where you add this yourself, you will start out with more sleeve stitches than the pattern describes. It may mean that you have some welcome extra ease in the upper arm. In that case, just follow the pattern for a larger size that has the same approx. number of sleeve stitches. If you want narrower sleeves, you may need to take an extra look at the number of decrease rounds and the number of plain rounds between them.

On a final note, I have not yet tried this technique with raglan garments. However, I strongly suspect it will work just as nicely there as it does with circular yoke sweaters. When I do try it, I will report back!

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tutorial – two-stitch buttonhole in 2×2 rib

Knitting neat buttonholes can be a challenge, especially if you need the bigger sized ones. They often tend to sag or stretch at the edges. Fortunately, I recently came across this lovely technique to make a two-stitch buttonhole, right in the purl portion of (k2, p2) rib patterning. This method may seem a tad involved, but trust me, the result is really worth it!

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to work buttonholes in an 8 st repeat, with a buttonhole over the 2 stitches in every other purl section of the rib patterning.

Materials used

Yarn: Beiroa, an aran weight yarn from Retrosaria Pomar; a 100% Portuguese wool yarn, manufactured in Portugal, exclusively from the wool of free grazing Bordaleira Serra da Estrela sheep.

Knitting needles: A pair of Addi circular needles in size 4.5 mm (US7).

Knitting two-stitch buttonholes in 2×2 rib, step by step

This technique is worked over various rows. In a pattern (like the one for the cardigan-in-progress used in this tutorial), you can expect instructions like these:

Buttonhole row 1 (RS): *K1, kfb, (p1, psso) twice, sl st back to left needle, k2tog, k1, p2; rep from *.
Buttonhole row 2 (WS): *K2, p2, you have then reached the first bound off st, m1bl, p2; rep from *.
Buttonhole row 3 (RS): *K2, m1rp, p1, k2, p2; rep from *.

Let’s get started!

First, work to the 2 knit stitches just before the purl stitches where you want to place your buttonhole.
Knit 1 stitch.
In this step, work a kfb increase in the next stitch.
Now purl the next stitch on the needle….
… insert the tip of your left-hand needle into the second stitch on the right-hand needle ….
… and pass it over the purl stitch.
Repeat steps 4 to 6 once.
Next, slide the first stitch that’s on the right-hand needle back to your left-hand needle.
Next, knit the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle together (k2tog), decrease the extra stitch away.
To finish the last few stitches of the repeat, work k1, p2 over the 3 next stitches.
Now you can repeat these steps until you have the correct number of buttonholes, and then continue with the button band until you’ve reached the end of the row. It can be useful to use stitch markers around the buttonhole repeats, to make it easier to find your place on the next row.
Buttonhole row 2: Work the button band on the WS until you’ve reached your marker. Then work k2, p2 over the next 4 stitches.
You have then reached the first bound off st.
Now work a m1bl increase.
Next, purl 2 stitches to finish the buttonhole repeat on the WS.
Again, continue and repeat as needed to the end of the row.
Buttonhole row 3: Work to the start of the buttonhole repeat and work k2 over the first 2 stitches.
As you can see in the result of the last step, we’ve now reached the newly cast-on stitch. To make sure the buttonhole edge is nice and tight, we’ve not cast on 2. But, of course, we do need two stitches in theta purl section. So, to remedy that, we’ll be using the extra slack in the loose thread of yarn to make that extra stitch. To do so, work a m1pr: a right leaning m1 stitch, worked purl-wise.
To finish the buttonhole, work a p1 in next stitch, followed by k2.

The result

Below, you can see the result of working this two-stitch buttonhole. Really neat, right?!

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tutorial – weaving in ends as you go (end of a color)

Weaving in ends is a thing that just happens in projects. I mean, every ball of yarn has a beginning and an end, and when it’s through when the project is not, a new one has to be attached. When working in a solid color, depending on the type of yarn, the Russian join, braided join or the felted join may be just what you’re looking for. However, if there are a lot of joins, because you’re, for example, working wide stripes in different colors, these usually are not the best option.

In this tutorial, I want to focus on how to deal with the yarn end of the old color, once a new yarn in a new color has been joined. For this method, you don’t need to tie knots, or even use a tapestry needle. And you can work it on the go, so that when you’re finished with the project, you’re also already finished with weaving in the ends. The downside is that this method is best to use in combination with feltable fibers. In other words: yarns that are somewhat “grabby” like wool and alpaca. Worked in ends with smoother yarns like silk and cotton may become undone.

Materials used

Yarn: Rauma Finull a sportweight wool yarn from Norway. It has a crisp hand and works well for stranded color designs. The yarn also softens up with washing.

Knitting needles: A pair of Addi circular needles in size 4 mm (US6).

Weaving in ends as you go, step by step

Let’s get started!

In the below picture, the new yarn has been carried along from the previous section in that color, using the technique described here.
Please note, that of the old color a yarn tail of approx. 10 cm (4 inches) has been left.
Next, insert your needle into the next stitch as if to knit.
In this step, take the bit of yarn tail and wrap it around the working yarn. It does not matter which way around you wrap, just do it consistently every time.
After this, work the rest of the stitch as usual.
Now work a stitch as usual according to your pattern. In this case, that’s a knit stitch.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until no more length of yarn tail remains.

The result

Below, you can see the result of weaving in the ends as you go, when viewed from both the right, and the wrong side of the fabric. Really neat, right?!

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tutorial – working the knit 1 under loose strands (k1 uls) stitch

In some cases, loose strands of yarn in front of the work are used to make details in patterning. Take, for example, my Kitties all around hat. In this hat pattern, I use these loose strands to create the whiskers of the little cats. At some point, you need to catch these loose strands behind another stitch. This way, you make sure they’re fixed in the correct point in the patterning. This is where the knit 1 under loose strands (k1 uls) stitch comes in! Read on to see how it’s done.

Materials used

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, a good value, good quality 100% acrylic yarn. The yarn shown here is in the colors 155 Vintage Pink and 125 Spearmint Green.

Knitting needles: This is a pair of straights that I picked up at the second-hand store when I started knitting, brand unknown.

Working a k1 uls stitch step by step

In patterns, you may encounter the following description of this stitch:
Knit 1 under loose strands (k1 uls): Insert right-hand needle under the loose strands to slip the next stitch purlwise, pulling it out from under the loose strands before replacing it on the left-hand needle, trapping the strands behind the stitch, next knit it.

Alternatively, the stitch may be described like this:
Knit 1 under loose strands (k1 uls): Insert right-hand needle under the loose strands then into the stitch, wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through underneath the loose strands, trapping them behind the stitch. Slide the stitch off the left-hand needle to complete the k1 uls.

Both methods amount to exactly the same, but have a slightly different way to achieve the end result. In this tutorial, I’ll show the second version.

Make sure you have your piece with knitting with loose strands to work, as instructed in your pattern.
In this swatch I have 2 strands, achieved by slipping 3 stitches purlwise, with the yarn held in front of the work.
First, work your way across the row until you’ve reached the point where you want to make the k1 uls stitch
In this case, I’m making it in the middle stitch of the 3 slipped ones.
Insert your right-hand needle underneath the loose strands to capture.
Now, insert the right-hand needle knit wise in the stitch to knit.
Here I want to make a regular knit stitch, but if you’re instructed to work it through the back loop (k1 tbl), insert the needle in the back loop instead.
To continue, wrap your working yarn around the needle…
…. and pull it through the stitch.
Next, also pull it from underneath the loose strands.
This is what captures the strands behind the newly made stitch.
Finally, finish the stitch by slipping the loop off the left-hand needle.

And that’s all there is to it!

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tutorial – weaving in ends as you go (start of a new color)

Therefor, I want to focus in this tutorial on a different method to join a new yarn in a new color. For this method, you don’t need to tie knots, or even use a tapestry needle. And you can work it on the go, so that when you’re finished with the project, you’re also already finished with weaving in the ends. The downside is that this method is best to use in combination with feltable fibers. In other words: yarns that are somewhat “grabby” like wool and alpaca. Worked in ends with smoother yarns like silk and cotton may become undone.

Let’s get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Rauma Finull a sportweight wool yarn from Norway. It has a crisp hand and works well for stranded color designs. The yarn also softens up with washing.

Knitting needles: A pair of Addi circular needles in size 4 mm (US6).

Weaving in ends as you go, step by step

To start, grab your new ball of yarn!

Making sure you leave a yarn tail of approx. 10 cm (4 inches), work the first stitch of the row as instructed, using the new color of yarn.
In this case, I worked a knit stitch.
Next, hold the yarn tail together with the working yarn and work approx. 4 to 5 stitches as instructed, with the yarn held double.
Here, you see the result after I worked those stitches and I have a little bit of yarn tail remaining.
After this, work the rest of the row as instructed in your pattern, and continue with the next (WS) row as well.
When you arrive at the double strands on the WS row, just work them as if they are a single strand of yarn.
In this picture, I’ve inserted the right-hand needle into the first stitch to purl it.
Once the row is finished, this is how it looks.
Please note, that I’ve worked the last stitch with the new color yarn held double with the old color, as explained in the tutorial about carrying yarn up the side.

The result

Below, you can see the result of when viewed from the right side of the fabric. All new colors started (except the darkest one, which has been carried up along the side), were woven in as explained above. As you can see, the few stitches with the yarn held double at the beginning of these rows do not have a significant impact on how it looks. It sure makes a difference in the amount of finishing to when the knitting is done, though!

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tutorial – working the M6 increase

With almost every new design, comes a new technique or stitch pattern. In the project pictured above, I’m working a stitch pattern that uses a “make 6” increase. It’s very much like a regular “make 1” but instead of picking up the strand between the 2 stitches and making 1 stitch out of it, 6 new stitches are made by working [k1, p1] 3 times in the same loop. So, of course, there has to be an accompanying tutorial to make sure there is no confusion about how to go about it.

Let’s get our materials and get started!

Materials used

Yarn: Rauma Finull a sportweight wool yarn from Norway. It has a crisp hand and works well for stranded color designs. The yarn also softens up with washing.

Knitting needles: A pair of Addi circular needles in size 4 mm (US6).

Working the M6 increase step by step

To start, work as instructed by your pattern until the point where you want to make the increase.

In this example, I shot the pictures with the M6 not quite in the correct place. No worries, though, I corrected it later on.
First, insert your right-hand needle from front to back underneath the strand of yarn between the stitch just worked, and the next one to work.
Place it on the left-hand needle as shown, with the stitch mounted with the right leg in front of the needle.
You can place it on the needle with a twisted stitch mount, with the left leg of the stitch in front of the needle. However, this would mean that you have to work the following steps though the back loop to make sure the hole created in the fabric is not closed up.
Next, insert the needle knitwise into the loop, wrap the yarn around the needle …
… and pull it through. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Now, bring the yarn to the front of the work, insert the needle purlwise into the loop, wrap the yarn around the needle …
…and pull it through. Do not slip the loop off the needle yet!
Repeat steps 4 to 7 twice more, so that you have created 6 new stitches. You can now slip the loop of the left-hand needle.
On the next row, you can just work these new stitches as instructed in your pattern.

The result

Below, you can see the result. On the left, it’s shown directly after the M6 increase has been worked. On the right, the M6 increase is shown, incorporated in the patterning I’m working in this design. Pretty, right?!

How the M6 looks in the stitch pattern I'm working in this design

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