Here you can find useful how-tos and photo tutorials on knitting, and other techniques. The various tutorial collections can be found below in both picture and text link format.
Knitting tutorials
Other tutorials
Knitting – general
- Bust shaping: vertical bust darts
- Bust shaping: horizontal (short row) bust darts
- Raising the back neck of circular yoke sweaters
- Knitting in the round with circular needles
- Inserting an afterthought life line
- Reading knitting charts
- Tutorial: making extreme knitting needles
- Preparing roving for extreme knitting
- Knitting in the round travelling loop method
- Choosing circular knitting needles
- Using life lines
- Preventing the hump in a top-down crescent
- Working German short rows
- Working wrap & turn short rows
- Knitting i-cord
- Cabling without a cable needle
- Knitting 4-stitch cables without a cable needle
- Working a yo at the beginning of a row
- How to make the most of remaining yarn
- Working shadow wrap short rows on the RS
- Working shadow wrap short rows on the WS
Knitting – binding off
- Working a tubular bind off for 1×1 rib
- Russian grafting garter stitch
- Kitchener stitch: grafting garter stitch
- Russian grafting stockinette
- Working Kitchener stitch: grafting stockinette
- How to work the Russian bind-off
- Binding off when yarn has run out
- Working a 3-needle bind off
- Knitting an applied border
- Knitting an applied border around a corner
- Russian BO on the purl side
- Knitting the i-cord bind-off
- Knitting a bobble bind-off
- Knitting the loopy bind-off
- Working a double crochet bind-off
- The standard knitted bind-off
- Binding off in 1×1 rib
- Working a picot bind-off
- Working a Russian picot bind-off
- Working the Icelandic bind-off
- The buttonhole loop bind-off
- Working a cabled bind-off
- Working the stretchy yo bind-off for 2×2 rib
Knitting – casting on
- Knitting a garter tab cast-on
- Knitting a garter tab CO for top-down crescents
- Casting on & knitting magic loop
- Working Judy’s Magic Cast On
- Making a crochet provisional cast-on
- Two color cast-on
- Knitting a folded hem
- Knitting the i-cord cast on
- Knitting a bobble cast-on
- Knitting the knitted on cast-on
- Working a picot CO
- Tutorial Circular Cast-on
- Knitting a scalloped edge
- How to knit a Latvian Twist edging
- Working the long tail cast-on
- Working the Old Norwegian or Twisted German cast-on
- The cable cast-on
- Working the Turkish cast-on
- Working a tubular CO in the round for 1×1 rib
- Casting on at the underarm for garments
- Working the backward loop cast-on
- Working the circular cast-on
- working the Estonian cast-on
Knitting – decreases
- Knitting the skp decrease
- Knitting the k2tog decrease
- The k3tog tbl left-leaning double decrease
- K3tog right-leaning double decrease
- Working a sl1-k2tog-psso left-leaning double decrease
- Working the sl2-k1-p2sso centered double decrease
- Knitting the p2tog decrease
- Knitting the p2tog tbl decrease
- Working a k2tog tbl
- Working the bunny ears decrease
- Working the bunny ears back decrease
- Working a p3tog
- Working the SSK decrease
- Working the improved SSK decrease
- working a centered 5 to 1 decrease
Knitting – finishing techniques
- Pick up and knit
- Picking up stitches
- Pick-up & knit from garter stitch
- Knitting a horizontal 1-row buttonhole
- Working slip stitch (as edge treatment)
- Seaming with mattress stitch
- Seaming with slip stitch
- Whip stitch or overcast seaming
- Picking up stitches to work a neckline
- Working a backstitch seam
- Two-stitch buttonhole in 2×2 rib
- Avoiding holes at the underarm with top-down sweaters
- Working a slipped stitch edge
Knitting – increases
- Working a m2 aka double m1 increase
- Working a yo
- Working a double yarn over
- Knitting M1R and M1L increases
- Working a purl-side left-leaning lifted increase (LLIP)
- Working a knit-side left-leaning lifted increase (LLI)
- Working a kfb
- Working a knit-side Right-Leaning Lifted Increase (RLI)
- Working a purl-side Right Lifted Increase (RLIP)
- Knitting the M1bl increase
- Working a pfb
- Working the k-yo-k increase
- Working the m6 increase
- Working a (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1)
- 7 into 9 gathered stitch
- Working the (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) in 1 st increase
Knitting – fixing
- Correcting a wrongly worked purl stitch
- Fixing a forgotten yo
- Fixing a dropped stitch in stockinette
- How to pick up a dropped stitch in garter stitch
- Fixing a dropped stitch in garter stitch
- Fixing a mistake in lace knitting
- Changing a k2tog to a skp
- Fixing a forgotten m1
- Changing a skp to a k2tog
- Fixing my mr Greenjeans
- Replacing the toe of a hand-knit sock
- Fixing damage in ready-made knitwear
- Fixing a forgotten shaping yo in a triangle shawl
- Fixing an edge stitch
- Removing an applied border
- Reattaching an applied border
Knitting – color work
- Preventing gaps in slip stitch patterning
- Color work tips
- Contrast in color work
- How to work duplicate stitch
- Carrying yarn up the side
- Knitting stripes in rib patterning
- Weaving in ends as you go (start of a new color)
- Preventing a tight edge when knitting stripes
- Weaving in ends as you go (end of a color)
- Knitting jogless stripes in the round
Joining yarn
- Joining yarn with a magic knot
- Russian join
- How to work a braided join
- Working a felted join
- Making a spliced join
Blocking
Dyeing
- Natural dyeing part 1 – washing the wool
- Natural dyeing part 2 – mordanting
- Natural dyeing part 3 – preparing the dye bath
- Natural dyeing part 4 – dyeing the fiber
- Dyeing wool with onion skins
- Dyeing cotton with onion skins
- Dyeing wool with Easter egg dyes
Spinning
- Preparing alpaca for spinning
- Spinning wheel anatomy
- Types of spinning wheels
- From fleece to tweedy yarn
